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Old 05-17-2011, 08:30 AM   #1
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Wheel/Tire setup

Made a few posts in the Modular forums about the new wheels i was trying to use on my 01 GT.

Mounted some old tires i had on them, instantly regretted it. All dried out, not that much tread, etc... Decided to buy new ones. Also stayed with the stock size. If I want to hook up, ill put drag radials on (once im actually making horsepower...)

Anyways, heres the finished product. I get stupid good prices on Coopers, and these are supposed to be awesome. They balanced beautifully too. Less than 1/2 an ounce total per wheel/tire. I was VERY happy.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:08 AM   #2
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Re: Wheel/Tire setup

nice, now that car needs a drop VERY VERY BADLY lol
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:28 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
nice, now that car needs a drop VERY VERY BADLY lol
So badly, LOL!
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Old 05-17-2011, 05:21 PM   #4
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Re: Wheel/Tire setup

Good deal!......is that......"Gravestanger"
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDTCM
Good deal!......is that......"Gravestanger"
Aww....

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Old 05-19-2011, 07:03 AM   #6
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If i have time, putting these in tonight...

Been in my father-in-laws garage since 2005... LOL!
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:18 AM   #7
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Re: Wheel/Tire setup

lol, i have a write up, springs are rather easy on those cars
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
lol, i have a write up, springs are rather easy on those cars
Easier than my late model f-body, thats for sure!

How do you do the fronts, remove the ball joint, or the strut? I think taking the strut off is easier, imo. Less hammering : p

Suppose I could do it either way.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:30 AM   #9
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Re: Wheel/Tire setup

for the fronts get the frame on stands, remove the tire, put a jack under the A Arm and compress the strut a bit. Remove the brake caliper and hang it off to the side (dont let it hang by the brake line) remove the sway bar link, and then up top remove the strut nut (may need a flat head screw driver and a wrench etc) then after thats off slowly lower the jack to decompress the spring. You may also have to remove the cc plate bolts cant remember~ read the article section for the how to on it.

Thats about it then just get a friend to push the A Arm down and pop out the stock spring, reverse process using TQ specs
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
for the fronts get the frame on stands, remove the tire, put a jack under the A Arm and compress the strut a bit. Remove the brake caliper and hang it off to the side (dont let it hang by the brake line) remove the sway bar link, and then up top remove the strut nut (may need a flat head screw driver and a wrench etc) then after thats off slowly lower the jack to decompress the spring. You may also have to remove the cc plate bolts cant remember~ read the article section for the how to on it.

Thats about it then just get a friend to push the A Arm down and pop out the stock spring, reverse process using TQ specs
Ill be using my lift at my service station, which makes it very easy. Why do you have to unbolt it from the top of the strut? I was going to unbolt it from the spindle, and thats it. Theres a ton of room to get the spring out.

I see people loosen the control arm bolts too, i dont see a real reason to do that, imo.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:52 AM   #11
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Re: Wheel/Tire setup

thats another way to do it, but if you are installing CC plates (which will probably be needed) the strut has to come out the top anyway~
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
thats another way to do it, but if you are installing CC plates (which will probably be needed) the strut has to come out the top anyway~
I'm not planning on it as of now...

Would a 1" drop really require them?

Ive read that caster/camber wont change all that much, whereas my toe-in will, obviously.

Its a pro-kit, so its not like the sportlines or whatever.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:02 AM   #13
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Re: Wheel/Tire setup

1" you may be fine, just have to try/see but 1" wont get you where you want to be visually .. once you see it you will want more at least thats usually the case lol
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
1" you may be fine, just have to try/see but 1" wont get you where you want to be visually .. once you see it you will want more at least thats usually the case lol
The kit is 1 1/2", so it says. ANY gap closing is better. I also dont want it to ride like a truck. Plus, the kit was free, so I cant be too picky right now. : )
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:32 PM   #15
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Dropped mine least 2 inches if not more, left the upper isolator's out of the top at each corner. Used steeda sport springs. Did not need cc plates, the factory adjustment for camper was all I needed.
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:32 PM   #16
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Camper=camber
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Old 05-20-2011, 05:29 AM   #17
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Yay, done!

It really was simple. Now, i have to wake my *** up early and do my alignment before work tomorrow... Going to the drag strip after work, gotta have it done!
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:51 AM   #18
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Re: Wheel/Tire setup

looks good, you can wait a bit for any settling to take place before alignment if you want, say 200-300 miles~
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