New AM Wheels=Steering Wheel Vibration - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-07-2014, 02:08 PM   #1
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New AM Wheels=Steering Wheel Vibration

Quick question. I have a 2014 GT w/3500 miles. I recently bought and installed:
2013 GT500 Charcoal Mustang Wheel & NITTO INVO Tire Kit - 20x8.5 (05-14 GT, V6) - Free Shipping

Now I have steering wheel vibration over 45-50 mph. The tires are filled with nitrogen from AM and when I got them they were all over the place on psi. Ranging from 42 psi to 30 psi. I had them all equaled out to 32 psi, but the vibration is still there.

Do you think the rims are bad or do I need to go have them re-balanced. When I installed them. I noticed some had quite a few weights on it. I'm hoping the tech at AM is just bad a the rims won't need replaced.

Just for an experiment I put the factory 18s back on and the wheel vibration disappeared.

Any thoughts?
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:14 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwevert View Post
Quick question. I have a 2014 GT w/3500 miles. I recently bought and installed:
2013 GT500 Charcoal Mustang Wheel & NITTO INVO Tire Kit - 20x8.5 (05-14 GT, V6) - Free Shipping

Now I have steering wheel vibration over 45-50 mph. The tires are filled with nitrogen from AM and when I got them they were all over the place on psi. Ranging from 42 psi to 30 psi. I had them all equaled out to 32 psi, but the vibration is still there.

Do you think the rims are bad or do I need to go have them re-balanced. When I installed them. I noticed some had quite a few weights on it. I'm hoping the tech at AM is just bad a the rims won't need replaced.

Just for an experiment I put the factory 18s back on and the wheel vibration disappeared.

Any thoughts?
Give AM a call and ask, it kind of does sound like a possible balancing issue. Also check if there are any rubbing problems.
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:18 PM   #3
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There are no rubbing issues. I checked when I put the stocks back on for the test.
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:18 PM   #4
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Did you remove the crush washers that are on one or more of the lugs before you put the new wheels on?

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Old 07-07-2014, 02:24 PM   #5
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I got new lugs when I ordered the wheels/tires and used them. So no crush washer.
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:40 PM   #6
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did you remove the disc retaining clips?
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:28 PM   #7
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did you remove the disc retaining clips?
No. Just a direct wheel replacement. Took the old ones off. Put the new ones on. Used the new black acorn lugs that I bought from AM. Then sync'd them up with the sync tool. Thats when I noticed the psi difference in all the tires.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:48 PM   #8
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either the weights fell off or they need to be re balanced.. call AM tell them the deal, this is a common case lol I think they just refund u the money for rebalancing. If you read reviews of rims they offer this seems to happen alot
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:26 AM   #9
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If you pull one of the wheels off look at the lugs. One ore more lugs will have a washer on it which will keep the wheel from mating flush with the disc. Remove these and the problem will likely go away. Not the lug nuts but the lugs themselves,

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Old 07-08-2014, 01:55 AM   #10
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If you pull one of the wheels off look at the lugs. One ore more lugs will have a washer on it which will keep the wheel from mating flush with the disc. Remove these and the problem will likely go away. Not the lug nuts but the lugs themselves,
I will take a look at it tomorrow before work. I hope that is what is going on. It would be an easy fix.
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Old 07-08-2014, 05:38 AM   #11
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what Static said are the clips (think star washer)....they keep the disc in place during assembly and can be pried off and thrown out. If you look at the OEM wheels they have a recess on the inside around the lugs to accomodate the clips. Hopefully thats all it is.
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:06 AM   #12
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This is why I'll never buy a pre-balanced set of wheels. I like to go to my local shop and BS with the installer and watch him use the balancing machine. Call AM, tell them their balancing job is **** and that you are going to take the rims to a local shop. Get an email guaranteeing they will reimburse you and don't take site credit either.
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:27 AM   #13
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Just needs re-balanced. I've seen this issue before in here, they usually refund you the cost of the balance
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:13 AM   #14
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When I purchased my tires and wheels a few months back from AM. The first test drive I did all of the weights flew off the rims that AM had installed. I had to have them all re balanced beca6se of the vibration. Like mentioned above... call AM and tell them the problem. They told me to get them balanced and fax or email them the receipt and they will credit my CC. Problem solved!
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
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If you pull one of the wheels off look at the lugs. One ore more lugs will have a washer on it which will keep the wheel from mating flush with the disc. Remove these and the problem will likely go away. Not the lug nuts but the lugs themselves,
Wheel Studs to me more clear.

OP: Ford installs what they call-out as a washer, but is more of the speed-clip type, on at least one wheel stud on each corner to hold the brake rotor in place during the assembly. After your car leaves the factory, these no longer need to be on vehicle.

The reason these clips cause a problem on non-factory wheels is that the Ford factory wheels have a small relief machined or cast into the back of the wheel to accommodate the thickness of the speed-clip, allowing the wheels to squarely mount up against each brake rotor. Your aftermarket wheels, even ones from American Muscle, do not cast or machine reliefs into the backside of the wheels. If the washer/clip is left on the wheel studs, your new wheels will not mount up squarely against the brake rotor hat, creating a wobble of the entire wheel and tire.

These clips will be on all four corners, not just the front, so you need to pull the clips off every corner to ride smoothly again.
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:44 PM   #16
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Wheel Studs to me more clear.

OP: Ford installs what they call-out as a washer, but is more of the speed-clip type, on at least one wheel stud on each corner to hold the brake rotor in place during the assembly. After your car leaves the factory, these no longer need to be on vehicle.

The reason these clips cause a problem on non-factory wheels is that the Ford factory wheels have a small relief machined or cast into the back of the wheel to accommodate the thickness of the speed-clip, allowing the wheels to squarely mount up against each brake rotor. Your aftermarket wheels, even ones from American Muscle, do not cast or machine reliefs into the backside of the wheels. If the washer/clip is left on the wheel studs, your new wheels will not mount up squarely against the brake rotor hat, creating a wobble of the entire wheel and tire.

These clips will be on all four corners, not just the front, so you need to pull the clips off every corner to ride smoothly again.
This is better than what some companies do/did honestly. On my wife's 01 Honda the factory installed rotors are held in place by TWO phillips head screws. In a rotor... yeah... very un-Honda like. Anyway once you drill/heat/whatever the screws out you never have to use them again.
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Old 07-12-2014, 05:09 PM   #17
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I have the same prob had them balanced twice.I guess I need to try this!!
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:15 AM   #18
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OP what was the answer?
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:50 AM   #19
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took it to a wheel shop and they removed the factory clips/washers and re-balanced the tires. They said one had twice the amount of weight it need on the wheel. Like the tech may have grabbed the wrong size weights. It's all good know.

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:51 AM   #20
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well not all good. Now I need to get some damn suspension done. I should have headed the warnings of the forums and completed suspension first then engine bolt-ons.
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:34 AM   #21
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Now my car is throwing the p1639 code.... and now done with AM. Going to take my business to other vendors.

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Old 07-15-2014, 12:40 PM   #22
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Put your tune back to stock and see if the code goes away. Its a vehicle ID block corrupt/missing which is probably because they goobered something in their "tune".

As I've said many many times. Bama is a great vendor but as far as the bama tunes and some of their products... you have to do your due diligence. I had 0 problem with the rims I got from them and even though one was a blem I had a new one on my doorstep in two days after I texted them a pic of the blem on the rim I got. I did not have their mount/balance service done because I actually saved money selecting my own tires (BFG vs Sumis) and having a really really well known/top notch local wheel and tire shop do the mount/balance.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:44 AM   #23
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Their customer service is excellent, but product quality and control isn't their. I ordered louvers from them last year and one was bent. I had to take a heat gun to it to get to lay flat against the quarter windows. The american thunder exhaust brackets had to be cut and welded, not their fault, but I did order it form them, Rims came balanced incorrectly, irregular inflations, and scratches on the lug wheels form the mounter. Then the tune. This is the third load form them. The first tune had a rough idle, they sent another and it would randomly rev from 250 rpm to 1750 rpm until you turned it off then on again, now the 1639. They sent another tune today and I loaded it and the code went away.

I ordered a tune from Lund tonight, so we will see. Like i said great customer service and prices, but I have had bad luck with them. I'm probably just an anomaly.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:47 AM   #24
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AM is literally a Costco/Sam's Club for Mustang parts and you really do have to treat it as such. As I've said many times when ppl come on here talking about how they thought AM "only sold the best" or "was the only place to go for parts". No... they are ONE place to go for parts/services. There are other places that sometimes have better prices, they do stock crap gimmick parts like most stores do and you have to think of their "experts" the same was as the "experts" behind the counter at Autozone. If you are getting some info you feel is not quite right or suspect you are probably right.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:17 AM   #25
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ugh...stories like this are why i have yet to buy a tuner from AM...and I almost bought one this morning...seems to be a regular occurrence that something is wrong with the tune, something inside is locked, random revving or just didn't work like it was supposed to...in nearly every tuner thread I read someone is complaining about something.

who else has good tuner/tunes?
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:02 AM   #26
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Its because they don't actually tune, they load a canned tune that most closely matches your "19 specific questions". AED does remote datalog tuning for Coyotes, probably does them for 3Vs too. Best bet, as always, is a local custom tune.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:16 PM   #27
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Its because they don't actually tune, they load a canned tune that most closely matches your "19 specific questions". AED does remote datalog tuning for Coyotes, probably does them for 3Vs too. Best bet, as always, is a local custom tune.
thank you...i will ask around and see what's up in my neck of the woods.
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