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Old 12-03-2004, 08:38 AM   #36
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Well that problem is resolved, the injector's nozle actually came loose and was sitting at an angle not allowing any fuel to pass through. So im happy everything is now working great.

I havn't got on the gas too much yet but I can definately say, I havnt lost any torque, but have gained torque down low, So if I was making near 210 torque from 2000rpm-3500rpm, Ill bet theres quiet a bit more, though like I said I havnt got on it enough to really make a good guess.

Anyways, ill be getting her dynoed, but prolly not until next weekend.

Do yall think its safe to to get on it a bit even if the rockers arent perfect?
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Old 12-03-2004, 07:42 PM   #37
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I'm gonna bet you have somenumbers that look close to my old setup. This was on a mystang dyno just so you know.
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Old 12-04-2004, 07:18 AM   #38
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Well my baseline dyno w/ boltons had me at 140.5 rwhp and 208.9rwtq. So im hoping to see at leaste 180-190 rwhp and 240-250 rwtq.
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

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Old 12-04-2004, 02:48 PM   #39
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I would anticipate so much TQ, I have a 4.2L in my car and I'm at 265rwtq. I would think you would have around 175rwhp and about 215rwtq, if that. I only say that because I don't see the basic bolt-ons in your sig like a UD pulley and stuff like that. If you have those, then a slightly higher hp could be possible, but not much. I would say 180-185rwhp max.
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Old 12-05-2004, 12:35 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Stallion
I would anticipate so much TQ, I have a 4.2L in my car and I'm at 265rwtq. I would think you would have around 175rwhp and about 215rwtq, if that. I only say that because I don't see the basic bolt-ons in your sig like a UD pulley and stuff like that. If you have those, then a slightly higher hp could be possible, but not much. I would say 180-185rwhp max.
What? So your saying I paid over $2000 for a 40rwhp gain max and a 5rwtq gain??? Uhh I sure hope your wrong. \
Ohh and yes, I do have 2.25inch true duals, CAI, and 25% UDP. Foregot to put that in sig.
Though I was told with BV heads and the cut and weld upper plus the fuel mods and I should see over 200rwhp easily... Mik at RPM told me that I should see around 210rwhp with the BV heads (before I paid for them)
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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Old 12-05-2004, 03:26 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
What? So your saying I paid over $2000 for a 40rwhp gain max and a 5rwtq gain??? Uhh I sure hope your wrong. \
Ohh and yes, I do have 2.25inch true duals, CAI, and 25% UDP. Foregot to put that in sig.
Though I was told with BV heads and the cut and weld upper plus the fuel mods and I should see over 200rwhp easily... Mik at RPM told me that I should see around 210rwhp with the BV heads (before I paid for them)
Well I hate to say it, but I think he lied to you. I have BV heads also, but I have a 4.2 stroker, O/R H-pipe exhaust, and a 224/230 cam. As you can see I am only putting down 218 rwhp. What it seems to me is that the upper intake is just way too small unless you go with a supercharger which can then force more air into you intakes, but naturally it just doesn't allow more airflow. I'm in the process of fixing that I think. Watch my website for more info. As of now there is none, but soon there will be.

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Old 12-13-2004, 08:07 AM   #42
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Okay, Im going to have to make a confession... My car doesnt feel much faster than it did before the RPM top-end swap. I would say it feels like maybe 10-15rwhp gain maybe a little more but no 50-60rwhp gain like I was expecting. Torque feels barely different if at all. Which makes no sence to me. Though its the truth. Did I do something wrong or what???
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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Old 12-13-2004, 09:53 AM   #43
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You probably need a good tune. You've modified your car alot. And according to your sig, you're still waiting for your chip, so are you?
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Old 12-13-2004, 10:16 AM   #44
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without a tune you will feel slow. Hell I ran slower before my tune.

Then as soon as I put my SCT tune in I dropped an instant .6 in the 1/4
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Old 12-13-2004, 10:21 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
What? So your saying I paid over $2000 for a 40rwhp gain max and a 5rwtq gain??? Uhh I sure hope your wrong. \
Ohh and yes, I do have 2.25inch true duals, CAI, and 25% UDP. Foregot to put that in sig.
Though I was told with BV heads and the cut and weld upper plus the fuel mods and I should see over 200rwhp easily... Mik at RPM told me that I should see around 210rwhp with the BV heads (before I paid for them)
heads/cam is a top end mod. You make more power in higher rpms. It's not meant to make butt loads of torque.

Going from 140/208 to 180/220 would be an awesome gain. 40rwhp on a singleport!

I still stand by my reasoning that heads/cam on a singleport is a waste. 180rwhp is stock 99+ numbers.

I'm hoping to see 210-220rwhp whenever I get to the dyno and I dont have BV heads but do have an auto.
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Old 12-13-2004, 05:35 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stangin99
I still stand by my reasoning that heads/cam on a singleport is a waste. 180rwhp is stock 99+ numbers.
Um, not quite. Your auto 99, stock has about 145-150 rwhp. A 5 speed has about 155-160rwhp. You're still missing about 20-30 rwhp.
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Old 12-13-2004, 06:35 PM   #47
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Um, not quite. Your auto 99, stock has about 145-150 rwhp. A 5 speed has about 155-160rwhp. You're still missing about 20-30 rwhp.

ok so not stock..boltons tho
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Old 12-13-2004, 07:45 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stangin99
ok so not stock..boltons tho
I would still say you need quite few bolt ons to get 180rwhp. If you convert that to bhp, that's around 210hp. That' about 20 more than stock. So with a combination of an UD pulley, CAI, and dual exhaust you might be able to get 20hp from that. You might need a chip to get to that 20hp though.
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Old 12-13-2004, 08:25 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by 97Stallion
I would still say you need quite few bolt ons to get 180rwhp. If you convert that to bhp, that's around 210hp. That' about 20 more than stock. So with a combination of an UD pulley, CAI, and dual exhaust you might be able to get 20hp from that. You might need a chip to get to that 20hp though.
most 5speed 99+ see 180 with those simple parts.

Alls I'm saying is...if you're willing to pull the heads/cam, why not just put splitport ones back in?? The only other thing you need is a fuel rail and people are making those more and more...
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Old 12-13-2004, 09:59 PM   #50
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I been working on electronics since 1983.

You do not use sand paper to clean up contacts and you surely don't try to take the silver off the contacts.

What you use is a pencil eraser and you want the silver shiny. Then clean it off with isopropal alcohol (rubbing alcohol).

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Holy crap he's right.
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Old 12-13-2004, 11:02 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Stallion
You probably need a good tune. You've modified your car alot. And according to your sig, you're still waiting for your chip, so are you?
okay, my chip is installed. I thought I already posted that but guess not. down low it feels the same as before, up in the high rpms (4000-5200) it feel better but not anything like I was expecting. Like I said I dont think im even pushing 160rwhp right now. I think something still isnt quiet right with my engine, still feels like it misses some times. I know something isnt right.
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Old 12-13-2004, 11:07 PM   #52
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go get a dyno tune
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Old 12-14-2004, 07:54 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by steedav6builder
go get a dyno tune
I will be geting her dynotuned in jan. Till then I think some new plug wires and even plugs might help, I think my stock (102,000 miles) plug wires arent up to the task. The barely used copper core autolite plugs are a bit fowled since I ran my car without the chip for a while (dumping 35% to much fuel into the cylinders with the 19# injectors)
Also I think a new MAF coulnt hurt, but I cant afford one right now so im going to get some of that electrical cleaner and clean it and the connection really good.
Anyways, I know another thing that may be hurting my performance is the alternator. As it also has 102,000 miles on it. All my electronic stuff has been acting weird lately, like my alpine cd player will just turn of and my headlights will dim and then everything will go back to normal. It has done this for about a week now. It happens ever so often. Lately everytime it happens my engine will kinda lurch as well. So im thinking ad kinda hoping its my alternator.
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

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New dyno
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Old 12-14-2004, 12:31 PM   #54
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Where do you live?
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Old 12-14-2004, 02:13 PM   #55
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try to find a friend with a 99+ 5spd and do a little race from a roll..

if you can keep up/pull on him, that should give you an idea of your power.
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Old 12-16-2004, 08:07 AM   #56
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Well I figured out one thing that has helped my car out alot... My IAT sensor was not connected. I dont know how or exactly how long it has been like this, but I do know after connecting it the car has run alot smoother and feels a bit more responsive. Though my car doesnt feel like it has the power its supposed to.
stangin99: Mik at rpm told me that another dude with a setup similar to mine (no big valves) made 190rwhp in his 98 stang. So he then said I should make around 210rwhp.
I have raced one 87 5.0 with freshly rebuilt engine and 3.73 posi rear... I coulnt stay up for crap unless we went from a role. From a role I pulled a little on him in first gear (about a quarter car length) and then as soon as a shifted into 2cd he pulled like over a car length on me like fast. When I shut down around 75 he was a good 2 car lengths or more ahead of me.
Ohh and I had 4 people in my car including me and he was the only one in his car. So maybe its not so bad, what do yall think?
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

RDmotorsport

New dyno
193.8rwhp/238.9 rwtq
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Old 12-16-2004, 08:44 AM   #57
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4 people in your car certainly did not help at all. If you have a 5 speed with BV heads and P&P intakes to match the BV heads and a 216/225 cam and are properly tuned 200+rwhp is not impossible. You really need to get to a dyno.Also you need to get your Electrical system back to 100%.
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Old 12-16-2004, 09:48 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
I will be geting her dynotuned in jan. Till then I think some new plug wires and even plugs might help, I think my stock (102,000 miles) plug wires arent up to the task. The barely used copper core autolite plugs are a bit fowled since I ran my car without the chip for a while (dumping 35% to much fuel into the cylinders with the 19# injectors)
Also I think a new MAF coulnt hurt, but I cant afford one right now so im going to get some of that electrical cleaner and clean it and the connection really good.
Anyways, I know another thing that may be hurting my performance is the alternator. As it also has 102,000 miles on it. All my electronic stuff has been acting weird lately, like my alpine cd player will just turn of and my headlights will dim and then everything will go back to normal. It has done this for about a week now. It happens ever so often. Lately everytime it happens my engine will kinda lurch as well. So im thinking ad kinda hoping its my alternator.

^1) change your spark plugs AND the wires. do both. no excuses. i noticed a world of difference when i did mine (@85k miles) and my engine is completely stock

2) go to an autozone or advanced auto parts location and have your alternater checked. the procedure is free of charge

let us know if #1 helps, and come back on #2

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Old 12-16-2004, 09:49 AM   #59
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oh, you may want to check your serpentine belt also. that could be part of your problems
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:21 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
Well I figured out one thing that has helped my car out alot... My IAT sensor was not connected. I dont know how or exactly how long it has been like this, but I do know after connecting it the car has run alot smoother and feels a bit more responsive. Though my car doesnt feel like it has the power its supposed to.
stangin99: Mik at rpm told me that another dude with a setup similar to mine (no big valves) made 190rwhp in his 98 stang. So he then said I should make around 210rwhp.
I have raced one 87 5.0 with freshly rebuilt engine and 3.73 posi rear... I coulnt stay up for crap unless we went from a role. From a role I pulled a little on him in first gear (about a quarter car length) and then as soon as a shifted into 2cd he pulled like over a car length on me like fast. When I shut down around 75 he was a good 2 car lengths or more ahead of me.
Ohh and I had 4 people in my car including me and he was the only one in his car. So maybe its not so bad, what do yall think?
OK, from one stallion to another. I would highly doubt you can make 210rwhp only for the simple fact that I'm only making 216rwhp with my mods. When it comes down to it, I think the way the intakes are made prevent a huge amount of hp from being made without a SC or something of the sort. I would think with your mods you have somewhere around 190-195rwhp & 225-235rwtq. And those are more realistic numbers if you ask me. What I think is the problem is that you were expecting too much, something like a car that would throw you back in your seat. You have to remember you have a V6 with a poor intake design. Without me personally probig around your engine, I can never really find out what's wrong. SO a dyno is the only way to really figure out what kinda of numbers you're putting down.
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Old 12-16-2004, 02:45 PM   #61
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Rob I am going to have to disagree with you on this Mikael has people making 190+ off of his Non BV heads with the identical cam and stage 3 intake or as he caklls them HP heads. I will be proof enough when I get to the dyno. I am just shy of 180RWHP and that is without BV heads and my car is an automatic.
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Old 12-16-2004, 04:50 PM   #62
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Rob I am going to have to disagree with you on this Mikael has people making 190+ off of his Non BV heads with the identical cam and stage 3 intake or as he caklls them HP heads. I will be proof enough when I get to the dyno. I am just shy of 180RWHP and that is without BV heads and my car is an automatic.
I don't see him making 210 in a 3.8. BV heads don't help THAT much on a n/a 3.8. Your only as powerful as your weakest link. High flowing heads won't move any more air than what the intake design will allow.

The fact is singleport isn't a hp making motor. It's got the long runners for torque down low but up top it just chokes.

Rob makes 216-220 because of the 4.2. Justang with a 4.2 and BV heads made 260. Amazing what going from singleport to splitport can do.

I still don't understand why people who do heads/cam in a singleport don't convert to splitport. The ONLY other thing you have to do is fuel rail and injectors...WHY NOT for an extra 40hp?

oh btw, corey I'd like to see your dyno #'s....you 1/8 time is on par for a low 15s car. And with the auto you wont be any higher 180rwhp.
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:01 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stangin99
I don't see him making 210 in a 3.8. BV heads don't help THAT much on a n/a 3.8. Your only as powerful as your weakest link. High flowing heads won't move any more air than what the intake design will allow.

The fact is singleport isn't a hp making motor. It's got the long runners for torque down low but up top it just chokes.

Rob makes 216-220 because of the 4.2. Justang with a 4.2 and BV heads made 260. Amazing what going from singleport to splitport can do.

I still don't understand why people who do heads/cam in a singleport don't convert to splitport. The ONLY other thing you have to do is fuel rail and injectors...WHY NOT for an extra 40hp?

oh btw, corey I'd like to see your dyno #'s....you 1/8 time is on par for a low 15s car. And with the auto you wont be any higher 180rwhp.
Reason being most people don't do a split port swap is because it's expensive. The fuel rail goes for like 200-300 bucks, just for a stupid fuel rail. And the you have to pay people to port your heads and intakes on top of that. so you're looking at close to $1500 for the intakes, heads and fuel rail.
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Old 12-16-2004, 08:01 PM   #64
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I don't see him making 210 in a 3.8. BV heads don't help THAT much on a n/a 3.8. Your only as powerful as your weakest link. High flowing heads won't move any more air than what the intake design will allow.

The fact is singleport isn't a hp making motor. It's got the long runners for torque down low but up top it just chokes.

Rob makes 216-220 because of the 4.2. Justang with a 4.2 and BV heads made 260. Amazing what going from singleport to splitport can do.

I still don't understand why people who do heads/cam in a singleport don't convert to splitport. The ONLY other thing you have to do is fuel rail and injectors...WHY NOT for an extra 40hp?

oh btw, corey I'd like to see your dyno #'s....you 1/8 time is on par for a low 15s car. And with the auto you wont be any higher 180rwhp.

Why do you want to always slam the Single port ???? Some people just want a good performing car!!! Why did you not buy a GT you know it will always be able to out produce a V6????? People have many reasons!!!

First off you are the one that is wrong. I will go beyond 180 RWHP. And for my 1/8 times they were off because of very poor track conditions and the fact I was not able to control wheel spin at all. Both Rob and I could do better.

As far as wanting a splitport I would have just bought a damn 99+ instead of screwing around with a conversion. Money was not a object and at 44 with over 20 + years as a mechanic I could really do anything I wanted. See I dont have anything to prove I am not in some quest to be the highest HP car to bragg to people. I have already been there and done that 20 years ago. My desire is to build a nice running machine that ME and ME alone am happy with.!!!

So your question of not understanding is of no importance to me.
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Old 12-16-2004, 11:31 PM   #65
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You tell them Corey Single porst can make more power than yall may think. I dont know if yall realize it but I running Miks Cut and weld upper with modified crossover(for 60mm+ TB) and shortend runners.
Anyways, I think once I get my rockers all set right, my alternator replaced, my plugs and plug wires replaced, then make sure timing is all good and everything else is okay, and then get I dynotune I will easily see 200+rwhp.
Then when I get my cats repaced with highflows and soe new Lt headers, I will see around 220+rwhp.
Anyways, my car is making alot of valvetrain noice. It seems to get louder day by day. I might take my car in to someone later and run some more test and hopefully get all my rocker adjusted properly one of these days. Also, im nearly posotive my alternator is done for. The electrical clitches seem more persistant now. Maybe one of these days I will get everything figured out. then I can get her dynotuned.
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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Old 12-17-2004, 12:05 AM   #66
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I have kinda been keeping up with this, but not 100% so if this has already been said, i appologize.

anyway, the single port heads flow more air than the split port. A stage X single port vs a Stage X split port will show the single port flowing more than the split port. 100% of the time. That is why some of the single port guys who get blown just get big valve heads instead of going split port.
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Old 12-17-2004, 07:56 AM   #67
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I have kinda been keeping up with this, but not 100% so if this has already been said, i appologize.

anyway, the single port heads flow more air than the split port. A stage X single port vs a Stage X split port will show the single port flowing more than the split port. 100% of the time. That is why some of the single port guys who get blown just get big valve heads instead of going split port.
Hmm, most of the flow numbers Ive seen like with RPM or SSMS the split port heads always flow about 15cfm more than single port heads... Thats okay though, I know single port will never out flow split port, like corey said I'm just doing this for myself. I dont really see my siingle port n/a putting down 260rwhp like justang, but I can definately see it put down a good 220 or so.
There are some single port cars putting down some awesome numbers, like dan haga's with over 400rwhp...
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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Old 12-17-2004, 10:47 AM   #68
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the single port heads flow more when a power adder is introduced. That is my understanding anyway
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Old 12-17-2004, 11:33 AM   #69
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the single port heads flow more when a power adder is introduced. That is my understanding anyway
correct.

But in n/a terms it's lacking. Stock vs Stock is the prime example...40hp advantage.

And the only reason I say stuff about singleports is because your already spending $1000+ on ported heads/intakes/cam, whats another 200 for a damn fuel rail? I agree with you on having a fun car to drive, but 40 more hp makes your car that much more fun.

everyone needs to chill..I wasn't bashing anything just stating some stuff..
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Old 12-17-2004, 12:32 PM   #70
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Quote:
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correct.

But in n/a terms it's lacking. Stock vs Stock is the prime example...40hp advantage.

And the only reason I say stuff about singleports is because your already spending $1000+ on ported heads/intakes/cam, whats another 200 for a damn fuel rail? I agree with you on having a fun car to drive, but 40 more hp makes your car that much more fun.

everyone needs to chill..I wasn't bashing anything just stating some stuff..

Everyone is chilled!!!! No one is upset. I just stated fact and my desires nothing more nothing less. But eveytime some talks about single ports you step in and ask why!!!

OH and spending a $1000 on engine mods really is a small amount considering what people spend on body kits and other non performance related mods. Hell a thousand will barely get you a nice sound system in your car.

Everything is relative. I mod my car for my pleasure and at my leisure. Nothing else matters.

I have no problems with you!!!
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