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Old 11-18-2004, 12:39 PM   #1
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Finished project.. need help!

I thought I would post over here to see if I got better assistance than over at 3.8...
Anyways, I just recently put some new Bv heads, upper and lower intakes, and cam among other things on my car (did myself)
I also put some 19# injectors on, but my chip hasnt come in the mail yet so my car is running real rich. (normal injectors are 14#)
I havnt driven it very uch at all, but I did take her a few miles today. My biggest concern is the fact that it has no power at low rpms in 5th gear (I lose speed at full throttle) and its not much better in 4th... My question is, is this because of the injectors or is it something worse???

Thanks for any help!
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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Old 11-18-2004, 12:44 PM   #2
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I have limited knowledge in this, but after that kind of work and new injectors, it will probably run like crap until you get a tune or your chip in
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Old 11-18-2004, 12:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
I thought I would post over here to see if I got better assistance than over at 3.8...
Anyways, I just recently put some new Bv heads, upper and lower intakes, and cam among other things on my car (did myself)
I also put some 19# injectors on, but my chip hasnt come in the mail yet so my car is running real rich. (normal injectors are 14#)
I havnt driven it very uch at all, but I did take her a few miles today. My biggest concern is the fact that it has no power at low rpms in 5th gear (I lose speed at full throttle) and its not much better in 4th... My question is, is this because of the injectors or is it something worse???

Thanks for any help!
I wouldnt worry yet, wait for the chip to come in and then try itout. I would bet its do to the injectors flooding your engine with gas it cant burn
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Old 11-18-2004, 12:59 PM   #4
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Your are definately in need of a chip/tune
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Old 11-18-2004, 01:17 PM   #5
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get a chip and a tune and you should be fine.
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Old 11-18-2004, 02:03 PM   #6
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make sure you get that chip soon or just lay off the wot for a while. if you give it too much gas you could get puddling and that is bad for the pistons.
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Old 11-18-2004, 02:38 PM   #7
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Did you change your MAF? If not you're definately going to need to change that. I would recommend a GT MAF , a Lightning MAF or something. That won't make your car run right, but it'll allow for a better tune. What kind of chip did you get? If it's not SCT, it's not worth getting. What kinda of cam did you get? And are you single or split port? And finally, even though it's not required, please fill in the location section of your profile so we know where you live. If you live in SC, I could possibly help you out.
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Old 11-18-2004, 02:44 PM   #8
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Hey Rob, just looked at his public profile, had a link to cardomain...hes waiting on a SCT chip..
[copy/paste]
RPM BV heads w/3 angle valve job and some major porting
RPM cut and weld upper intake
RPM fully ported lower intake
RPM modified 60mm throttlebody
RPM 216/225 cam
RPM timing set
Harland sharp adjustable roller rockers
All new gaskets and oil seal
25% UDP
Ebay CAI
Custom true dual exhaust w/2.25 pipes from stock headers which are welded onto some spintech prostreet mufflers and come outta some chrome 3 inch tails.
Awaiting: SCT chip so that it runs smoothly again!
[copy/paste]
maybe that will help ya figure out what his problem may be?its a single port btw
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Old 11-18-2004, 02:54 PM   #9
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Well the tune will for sure make his car run better, but it also looks like he's still got his cats. That's a big no no. When I removed my cats I picked up around 40more horsepower. It's not because of that "mod" it's because my cats were clogged and my car couldn't breathe. But now it can. I went from 168rwhp to 218rwhp, so almost like 50 I guess. But I did change my cam, upper intake a TB in there somewhere.
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Old 11-18-2004, 02:57 PM   #10
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Same thing happend to Corey his cats got clogged aswell, and had a good jump in horsepower when he got rid of 'em. Running rich basically dumps raw fuel(fuel thats not burning) to the cats which can clog them up fairly quickly. maybe that could be his problem also
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Old 11-18-2004, 05:00 PM   #11
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Well i say there is to major problems with his car 1. running rich is always very bad for hp and gas mileage. 2. cats, ya they're for the enviroment and all, but screw that, hp is more important than the enviroment. If someone is seriously concerned about the enviroment, you could always get some high flow cats then. Being enviromently friendly is expensive though.
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Old 11-18-2004, 06:45 PM   #12
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Being enviromently friendly is expensive though.

Getting caught not being enviromentally friendly can cost you $10,000 per violation.

Be friendly, it's cheaper in the long run. And it's way cooler to whip someone's butt in an emissions legal car than to hack and slash your ride to put togther an abortion that runs fast, but that's all it does.


Reminds me of the time I got into a race with an Iroc Z, I'd tell the story but it's not at the track.

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Old 11-18-2004, 07:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponycarman
Getting caught not being enviromentally friendly can cost you $10,000 per violation.

Be friendly, it's cheaper in the long run. And it's way cooler to whip someone's butt in an emissions legal car than to hack and slash your ride to put togther an abortion that runs fast, but that's all it does.


Reminds me of the time I got into a race with an Iroc Z, I'd tell the story but it's not at the track.

Steve
I would definately advise people with air teams and the such to definately be enviromentally friendly.
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Old 11-18-2004, 09:37 PM   #14
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Old 11-18-2004, 10:59 PM   #15
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woa! Thanks for all the replys yall, alot of useful stuff!

Yes I am gettand SCT chip, Ive already paid for it, Im going to get my computer code tomorrow to send to mik so he can finish my chip up.
Im betting it is running like that because of the injectors too. We will know some time next week I guess.
Another concern of mine is that when you first turn the car on, the passenger side pipe has alot of white smoke and what seems to be alot of condensation spitting out of it for say the first 10 minuets, then it and the smoke completely quit. ANy ideas on that??>

Oh and Im from west texas! near Lubbock
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:43 PM   #16
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no problem, I like helping other people out. The white smoke could just be normal. How's the weather by you now, it it cold, snowy, anything like that?
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Old 11-19-2004, 07:09 AM   #17
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no problem, I like helping other people out. The white smoke could just be normal. How's the weather by you now, it it cold, snowy, anything like that?
last week it was really rainy and kinda cold (above freezing) and I didnt start it alot during that weather, so it went a good 2 days without being started because of the weather. Thats when it was worse the first time I started it. Though we havnt had any bad weather the last few days and the temp is around 50-60 when Ive started it and I still get alot of white smoke (only outta passenger side pipe) for the first 10 minuets or so. Another thing Ive noticed is that the passenger side muffler has a much louder deeper lopy sound to it and the other is quieter with less lopyness, could this be due to clogged cats?? In which, Ill be getting LT headers and h-pipe w/ high flows before toooo much longer.

Thanks
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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Old 11-19-2004, 04:29 PM   #18
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Do you have true duals, or an h-pipe? it sounds like you have a lot of moisture built up in your exhaust. I'm going to assume you just have straight true duals because the smoke is only coming out of one tail pipe. I think you need new cats for sure. if you're running as rich as you say you are, and your cats being 6+ years old, it's a good possiblility that they're somewhat clogged. First thing first, you need to get that chip in asap!! then go from there.
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Old 11-29-2004, 10:35 PM   #19
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Chip came in today! We will see what the car does when I finish putting the eec back in tomorrow...

is the chip in right? I ceaned the connection with a 100 grit sand paper then wiped it with a rag and alcohol... so hopefully everythings good.

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Old 11-29-2004, 11:05 PM   #20
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I sure hope that you went very lightly with the sandpaper!! I would have used a scotch brite pad. If you car starts, ten you installed the chip correctly. Also, did you use some duct tape to hold the chip the EEC?
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Old 11-30-2004, 05:48 AM   #21
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THe fact is running rich severely kills HP especially at low to mid rpm. On my car top end was not so bad. Raw fuel going into the cats will kill them in no time so if you have run your car rich more than a month or so you might just consider High flow cats.
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Old 11-30-2004, 07:43 AM   #22
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Well I was told by Mik at RPM to scrape until there was very little silver left. So thats what I did, and on one of the prongs the silver wasnt coming off as well so I scaped a bit harder and the tip (extreme tip) of that prong wasnt there no more... I was told that it should still make a fine connection though.
So if my car doesnt start up on first attemt, then should i take the chip back out and flip it over?
I dont get why theres need for duct tape... The chip seats onto the connection well and the bolts hold the EEC case together fine. Where and why is there need for duct tape???
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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Old 11-30-2004, 07:58 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
Well I was told by Mik at RPM to scrape until there was very little silver left. So thats what I did, and on one of the prongs the silver wasnt coming off as well so I scaped a bit harder and the tip (extreme tip) of that prong wasnt there no more... I was told that it should still make a fine connection though.
So if my car doesnt start up on first attemt, then should i take the chip back out and flip it over?
I dont get why theres need for duct tape... The chip seats onto the connection well and the bolts hold the EEC case together fine. Where and why is there need for duct tape???
Flip what over. The chip only go in one way. Exactly what is the duct tape for ?????. If it is to cover and hold the chip in place I could understand.
1. You shoud cover the opening to prevent dirt and debris from getting into the EEC.
2. You would be suprised at the ability of the chip to pop out of the EEC after a few jolts on bad roads.

I use the clear packing slip pouches you use on the outside of boxes to cover my ship and ECC port hole.
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:18 AM   #24
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okay, so is the tape supposed to just wrap around the chip, cause my chip sticks out the port about 1/2 inch... So just tape over it??
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

RDmotorsport

New dyno
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:23 AM   #25
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Yes I would think so. If it was said to use Duct tape to cover it. all chips stick out a little bit
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:28 PM   #26
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Chip installed!

Okay, chip is in, car runs much better, idle way smoother, still problems...

So I drove it into town and took it to a local mechanic to see what he thought about everything. I noticed a strangle noise coming from the passenger side cat and I think I no know what it is.
On the way up there some tings still just didnt feel right. Once again, I didnt get on it at all, just drove normal. Power seemed much better in 1st-4th gear but still not right. 5th gear still has trouble actually gaining any speed at low rpm's (although much better) at leaste it doesnt loose speed though.
The mechanic said my driver side rockers are way out of adjustment, he said that my biggest problem is that there are 1 (maybe more) exhaust valves that are adjusted way too tight (causing it to stay open way too long) He said that other arent tight enough. So basicly my driver side valvetrain is way outta wack.(The passenger side is okay, although he said some may be a bit loose on that side but nothing major.)

So ill be diving back into the engine for re-ajustment tomorrow. Any help on properly adjusting my adjustable RR's would be great.
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:30 PM   #27
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How did you adjust them in the first place?????
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:41 PM   #28
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How did you adjust them in the first place?????
Well actually a friend and my sis did that side... I think the reason they got some too tight is cause they tightend the adjusting nut down till the pushrod didnt rotate any more, and then they went about another full turn. They were supposed to tighten them till there was no more "up/down" motion and the go about 3/4th of a turn more. So there are prolly a few that are about 1/2 a turn or more too tight.

Edit: My sis said that jarrod (friend) tightend most only half a turn after the rod quit rotating...
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

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Old 11-30-2004, 12:46 PM   #29
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Actually since we have hydraulic lifters some are probably way more than 1 full turn. Hydraulic lifters compress so when toy get them snug that is it. When you tighten them to the point of not turning you have just about collapsed the lifter.
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Old 12-01-2004, 01:09 PM   #30
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alrighty, we got the rockers adjusted properly this time, im nearly posotive that no valves are staying open too long and they sound much quieter now.
On the road it feels much smoother now and more powerful. Though for some reason 5th gear still has like very little power(I shift from 4th at about 2200rpm and end up around 1800rpm in 5th), I have no idea what the prob is there. I know Ive lost some of low end torque, but it feels nice above 3000 rpm. Could the fact that my stock TB and TPS is still on my new intakes?
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

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Old 12-01-2004, 01:26 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
alrighty, we got the rockers adjusted properly this time, im nearly posotive that no valves are staying open too long and they sound much quieter now.
On the road it feels much smoother now and more powerful. Though for some reason 5th gear still has like very little power(I shift from 4th at about 2200rpm and end up around 1800rpm in 5th), I have no idea what the prob is there. I know Ive lost some of low end torque, but it feels nice above 3000 rpm. Could the fact that my stock TB and TPS is still on my new intakes?
Yes the volume of air required at upper speeds is probably not being met with the stock T/B
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Old 12-01-2004, 01:38 PM   #32
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Yes the volume of air required at upper speeds is probably not being met with the stock T/B
Thats what I figured. Well I guess ill be driving her alot today, ill prolly drive her to church and back (about 32 miles round trip) We shall see what happens...

Thanks for the help Corey
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Old 12-01-2004, 02:04 PM   #33
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No problem that is what I am here for
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Old 12-01-2004, 04:30 PM   #34
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Also, even though you have a chip, it takes a little trip for you car to re-compute your adaptive learned cells. It's not long, like 5 miles will do the trick. Also, If you still have the stock upper and TB, you're holding yourself back from a little power. You can get yourself a P&P intake and a bigger TB. Oh you can wait till i get my intake made and I'll use a 60mm TB. It's up to you.
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Old 12-02-2004, 09:45 AM   #35
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I took the car in to get some test done yesterday and came to find out that the #5 cylinder was not firing at all. We came to find that it as to be the injector. Either the signal or the injector its self.
So we will be getting that fixed (hopefully) today.
Im just hoping its not some kinda problem with my new SCT chip... prolly not, its prolly something wrong with an injector.
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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