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Old 11-24-2004, 12:02 AM   #1
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hey new v6 owner here

Hey guys a little about me my name is john i'm 26 i live in baltimore md and i'm a technician at a mercedes dealership. i just bought a 2000 mustang v6 3.8l 5 speed manual.
just a few questions.
1. what have you guys found to be the best supercharger kit for the mustang? i saw that vortech makes onee, i also heard powerdyne makes one but i haven't found it yet.
2. what is the average quarter mile time for a stock v6 3.8l 2000 mustang
3. last is i heard these things are bad in the snow and since winter is coming what can i do short of parking it to help winter traction.

thanks guys
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Old 11-24-2004, 12:27 AM   #2
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Well I'l answer you questions as best I can.

1. I've personallynever seen a powerdyne kit for our mustangs. As far as I know only Vortech and Procharger make them for the V6 Mustang. I personally haveno experience w/ them so i can't give my opinion, but I know Vortech comes with everything you need including fuel upgrades in their kits, were-as procharger subsitutes a intercooler in the kit instead of the fuel upgrades.

2. The average 1/4 time or your car stock is around 16.0

3. As for the snow, they're not terrible. As we all know more power and wider tires are what make our sports cars worse in the snow. So the best thing you can do it to get some sandbags for the trunk and if you have the stock wheels, leave them on.

That should answer all your questions, if you have more, let us know.
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Old 11-24-2004, 12:28 AM   #3
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for traction get your self t-lok and some 3.73 gears (just for a better bottom end) i would suggest building up an 8.8 with these parts. i would suggest an 11 psi intercooled procharger. get a short shifter and a mcleod clutch. stock 1/4 mile is about 15.5
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Old 11-24-2004, 07:42 AM   #4
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Beyond ATI Procharger and Vortech the only other Supercharger kit I know of is available from Pete @ Fordchip. It is a Powerdyne kit developed by Pete that is a 100% complete kit.

Snow is not any more a problem for a Mustang than any other rear wheel car that is light in the back end. As 97Stallion (Rob) suggested put a couple of sandbags in the trunk to help with traction and the stock wheels with a good set of tires will do the trick.

I also agree with Rob and 232stang (Steve) somewhere between 15.5 and 16.0 is where a stock 2000 V6 will run in the 1/4.
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Old 11-24-2004, 03:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards242000
Hey guys a little about me my name is john i'm 26 i live in baltimore md and i'm a technician at a mercedes dealership. i just bought a 2000 mustang v6 3.8l 5 speed manual.
just a few questions.
1. what have you guys found to be the best supercharger kit for the mustang? i saw that vortech makes onee, i also heard powerdyne makes one but i haven't found it yet.
thanks guys
Welcome to the world of the V-6. If you click or read below, you can see what is possibile. Others have done even more than mewhen they have the availability of tuning and speciality services. I live in a tuning wasteland here in Far West Texas...
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Old 11-24-2004, 03:41 PM   #6
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welcome, being from a snow state (indiana) mustangs are fine inthe snow. (well I drove mine last year. go easy, let off gas alittle bit more then you would to slow down in the rain, you will be fine with some sand bags. )
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Old 11-24-2004, 06:32 PM   #7
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I would only mess with a vortech or procharger, procharger being #1 of course
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Old 11-24-2004, 08:43 PM   #8
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i appreciate all the help thanks for the big welcome guys and i'll talk to you guys later happy thanksgiving
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Old 11-25-2004, 11:25 PM   #9
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I can't say a word about SC I'm not a specialist in the matter, but I live in Quebec Canada and I do know about winter, it's going to be the first winter with the mustang, but my experience in the 36 years of driving in the snow with muscle cars (Fairlane GTA, Duster 340, Challenger, Camaro) I have to say that I don't agree with the idea of weight in the trunk, it's a lot more difficult to recover the full control of your car if the back starts to make "fish tailing" in a curve or at a street corner.

According to me it's the best way to make a 180 degrees turn and get an accident.

I prefer the idea of getting some wheels at the scrap yard and putting some narrower winter tires as far as the full diameter (wheel and tire) is the same as your actual ones.

It's my opinion...Drive carefully...

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Old 11-25-2004, 11:39 PM   #10
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Well I would say it's not the that easy to get in a wreck with the 6 becaue it's not so front heavy like the other cars you've listed. I've driven my car in the snow for 4 winters and I'm still ok. But you're right driving slow is the key.
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Old 11-28-2004, 12:43 AM   #11
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Yeah, my first day in the snow and i fish-tailed into the curb of a very curvy street, not to mention i live in Colorado, the land of hills now i need a new wheel... but I'd have to agree with black panther, if i had had sand bags in the back, i wouldnt have been able to correct as much as i had, and i would have gone over the curb... just drive slowly.
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Old 11-28-2004, 12:49 AM   #12
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I have some oem 15s if you need em for very cheap.... else go ebay dont buy a new pos rim....
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Old 12-06-2004, 11:21 PM   #13
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Hey ,
Nice car. Looks almost exactly like mine... ... I am currently looking to modify, but still all stock for now... I just got her in July... Good luck!!!
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Old 12-06-2004, 11:22 PM   #14
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Hey ,
Nice car. Looks almost exactly like mine... ... I am currently looking to modify, but still all stock for now... I just got her in July... Good luck!!!
nice stang :thumbs2:
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Old 12-06-2004, 11:23 PM   #15
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Car look good man
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:28 AM   #16
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nice car man
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:26 PM   #17
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I just got my 04 in July and the only thing I don't like about it especially since it is winter time is the lack of traction, but I'm not really familiar with the function of the trac-loc system, if you guys can explain to me the operation of it
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:28 PM   #18
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If you have a V6, there is no traction lock, the only thing you have going for you is if you have traction control. I don't have traction control and I slide around when it rains. A Traction Lock (t-lok) distributes the power to both axles, therefore making both wheels spin. A v6 mustang will only spin one tire, because power is only being put to one wheel.
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:33 PM   #19
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Is there a differential or anything that would get both rear tires to spin and if so where can I get it
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:37 PM   #20
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Yes, it's called a T-lok (Traction lock). Several different companies sell these, I don't know any off the top of my head, but I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in here in a minute lol
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:43 PM   #21
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What would be the best set of gears to install, I'm in the process of modifying my 'Stang as we speak and I just wanted to know what is best for N/A performance(intake, headers, pulleys, exhaust, etc.)
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Old 12-07-2004, 04:28 PM   #22
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auburn makes one for the v6 mustang and is about $200. Ford Racing also makes one and it is $170 at www.gefracing.com. I can't remember where to get the auburn t-lok but look around on mustang sites. you will eventually find it.
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Old 12-07-2004, 04:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spadez81
What would be the best set of gears to install, I'm in the process of modifying my 'Stang as we speak and I just wanted to know what is best for N/A performance(intake, headers, pulleys, exhaust, etc.)
For the best N/A performance, You should copy my setup. If you have split port intakes then stick with those. As for a cam, don't get one as big as mine if you have split port intakes also. If you don't know what split port intakes are, just tell me the year of your car. As for gears go with atleast 3.73's
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Old 12-07-2004, 04:41 PM   #24
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for a N/A v6 i would suggest getting,
1. CAI, UD pulley, MSD spark plug wires,
2. Exhaust upgrade (true dual, with new headers), New rims*
3. PI heads and intakes, new cam, and a custom tuned chip.
*= just for better looks
4. Short throw shifter, 3.73 gears(manual), 4.10(automatic), with a t-lok. alluminium driveshaft, new clutch, alluminium flywheel
5. upgrade suspension. eibach pro-kit, caster camber, control arms,k members, steeda x2 ball joints.
6. upgrade brakes. 13 inch rotors in front 11in. rear. corss drilled or slotted or both, at least 2 piston calipers, stainless steel brake lines.
ALL OF THIS EQUALS AN A PRETTY GOOD PERFORMING MUSTANG.
PS: this set up is a good way to make way for a good supercharger or TT. on thing you would need is a new fuel pump, and fuel injectors.
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Old 12-07-2004, 04:42 PM   #25
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this was in no particular order
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Old 12-07-2004, 07:16 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpomps
for a N/A v6 i would suggest getting,
1. CAI, UD pulley, MSD spark plug wires,
2. Exhaust upgrade (true dual, with new headers), New rims*
3. PI heads and intakes, new cam, and a custom tuned chip.
*= just for better looks
4. Short throw shifter, 3.73 gears(manual), 4.10(automatic), with a t-lok. alluminium driveshaft, new clutch, alluminium flywheel
5. upgrade suspension. eibach pro-kit, caster camber, control arms,k members, steeda x2 ball joints.
6. upgrade brakes. 13 inch rotors in front 11in. rear. corss drilled or slotted or both, at least 2 piston calipers, stainless steel brake lines.
ALL OF THIS EQUALS AN A PRETTY GOOD PERFORMING MUSTANG.
PS: this set up is a good way to make way for a good supercharger or TT. on thing you would need is a new fuel pump, and fuel injectors.

I disagree with some of this. I'll post what should be done and why in a few minutes. I gotta eat first. And what the hell are PI heads and intakes??
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Old 12-07-2004, 07:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Stallion
I disagree with some of this. I'll post what should be done and why in a few minutes. I gotta eat first. And what the hell are PI heads and intakes??
i thought the PI was the "performance improved" heads on 99+ 4.6s
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Old 12-07-2004, 08:06 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steedav6builder
i thought the PI was the "performance improved" heads on 99+ 4.6s
yea they are, they only do that swap for 96-98 GTs
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Old 12-07-2004, 08:10 PM   #29
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wow i was right for once, (what engine is in the cobra r again)
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Old 12-07-2004, 08:16 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steedav6builder
wow i was right for once, (what engine is in the cobra r again)
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Old 12-07-2004, 08:34 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steedav6builder
i thought the PI was the "performance improved" heads on 99+ 4.6s
Right, I knew that. That's why i was like what the hell are these guys talking about? PI heads and cams are from the 99+ mustang GTs that you can swap to the 96-98 mustang GTs, not for the V6.
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Old 12-07-2004, 09:46 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpomps
for a N/A v6 i would suggest getting,
1. CAI, UD pulley, MSD spark plug wires,
2. Exhaust upgrade (true dual, with new headers), New rims*
3. PI heads and intakes, new cam, and a custom tuned chip.
*= just for better looks
4. Short throw shifter, 3.73 gears(manual), 4.10(automatic), with a t-lok. alluminium driveshaft, new clutch, alluminium flywheel
5. upgrade suspension. eibach pro-kit, caster camber, control arms,k members, steeda x2 ball joints.
6. upgrade brakes. 13 inch rotors in front 11in. rear. corss drilled or slotted or both, at least 2 piston calipers, stainless steel brake lines.
ALL OF THIS EQUALS AN A PRETTY GOOD PERFORMING MUSTANG.
PS: this set up is a good way to make way for a good supercharger or TT. on thing you would need is a new fuel pump, and fuel injectors.
OK, let me finish this post.

First, suspension upgrades should be your first priority if you decide to make your car faster. Reason being is that when you beat on your engine, you also beat on your chassis. From the factory your chassis is basically in two pieces. You have a front half and a rear. When you drive the two sides flex. So by connecting the two sides together, via subframe connectors, you create a solid frame. Also, Other things like Strut tower braces and sway bar are excellant upgrades because they also keep your car from twisting and flexing. So if you were to do this right, my list would look like:

1. Sub-Frame connectors, and a strut tower brace.
2. CAI, and UD pulley
3. TRUE dual exhaust and w/ or w/o headers. I emphasize TRUE because that cat-back MAC sells for V6 will do you no good. You'll might as well own a chevy. And I say w/ or w/o because I personally would go with longtubes, but long tubes don't have cats on them so if you need cats for your state, then stick with your stock headers.
4. Heads, Cam, Intakes, Lightning MAF. I add these all together because you really shouldn't do any of these mods as a stand only. You basically are wasting time and money if you do that. Fuel ugrades aren't necessary on 99+ V6's because you come with 21# injectors. If someone was to have a 94-98, the some 19# injectors would be needed. Although a bigger fuel pump never hurts.
5. Now would be a great time to get some gears w/ a t-lok before you buy a chip. You will indeed need a chip after the head, cam, intake swaps but would you like to buy a chip twice just to correct your speedo.
6. SCT chip
7. Now you can do all the little stuff like the shifter and the clutch. As for the brakes, i wouldn't bother getting new brakes, your stock ones are actually very good for you car. They're made my PBR, which makes some of the other top end brake systems. But slotted rotors would definately a good addition.
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:59 AM   #33
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I forgot who was asking for the year of my car, but mine is an '04 with roughly 12,000 highway miles and counting. I am very impressed with the factory performance, but after being behind the wheel of V8 mustangs and like everyone else, I want more kick out of my pony
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Old 12-08-2004, 11:54 AM   #34
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Well, you came to the right place to find out info on how to properly mod a 6er. I've learned a ton hanging around here and can now give sorta advice...lol. Is yours an auto or manual?
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Old 12-08-2004, 12:34 PM   #35
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It's a 5-speed
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