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Old 11-30-2004, 11:50 AM   #1
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Spring how-to

can anyone post a good spring swap how-to (w/ pix if possible)
Thanks
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:25 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Y2K-232
can anyone post a good spring swap how-to (w/ pix if possible)
Thanks
here you go. This is for Ford C springs but it works for all

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/springs.htm
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:48 PM   #3
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I love that guy's site...he has so many how to's on stuff I've done to cars, such a helpful site
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Old 11-30-2004, 01:08 PM   #4
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its a very easy thing to do, you should have no problems
edit: spring compressors will make the job much much easier
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Old 11-30-2004, 01:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
its a very easy thing to do, you should have no problems
edit: spring compressors will make the job much much easier
Dont need spring compressors with a Mustang!!!!!

Front springs removal
1. Jack the car up and put on jack stands
2. Place the jack under the lower A Arm and jqck it till it is up against the A Arm
3. Take you Front sway bar loose on each end
4. Loosen the the lower Strut attachment point
5. Disconnect the brake caliper off the spindle
6. Slowly lower the jack under the A arm and the spring will fall out
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Old 11-30-2004, 01:17 PM   #6
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they are not neccesary but imo its makes it a bit easier, on mine the spring didnt just fall out, i had to push down a bit more on the a-arm, and on the other side i used the spring compressor and i didnt have to push on the a-arm one bit
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Old 11-30-2004, 01:33 PM   #7
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All you have to do is use your jack to put pressure on the opposite end of the a arm. That means if your changing your left fron spring use the jack and jack the right front a arm up alittle and the spring will jut fall out
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Old 11-30-2004, 03:05 PM   #8
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i'll just let Brandon and Brent deal with it.
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Old 11-30-2004, 04:02 PM   #9
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meh imo its easier with a sprng compressor so i dont have to put the jack at the oppisite end
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Old 11-30-2004, 04:51 PM   #10
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Hm....I'm thinking about springs over christmas...
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Old 11-30-2004, 05:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
meh imo its easier with a sprng compressor so i dont have to put the jack at the oppisite end

Note to remember 232stang Steve is the only person I know who uses Spring compressors to change springs on a Mustang!!!!!


Steve's new name Spring Compressor Steve or SCS for short
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Old 11-30-2004, 06:43 PM   #12
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1) Loosen lug nuts on front wheels, place a scotch behind rear tires

2) Place hydrolic jack under front K member and jack the car up until you can place the jack stands under the car.

3) Place the jack stands on the frame rails located next to the cat.

4) Lower hydrolic jack and make sure tires are off the ground a bit, you can alwasy adjust the jack stands if you need more room (if you have adjustable jack stands which you should)

5) Remove wheels from the car and put them aside dont loose the lug nuts....

6) Remove the brake caliper or remove the brake line from the caliper (your call.... if you remove the line you will have to bleed the brakes, if you remove the caliper you will need a couple 15mm sockets you may breake one... just be careful ) and a long ratchet or something to get good leverage on the bolts since they are on rather tight.

If you remove the bolts its easier to turn the steering wheel so that you can get access to them with the ratchet, you may need a short extension (shorter the better) to gain access to one of the caliper bolts. Use wire or zip ties to secure the brake cailper up and out of the way, do not let any tention be on the brake line, keep it from hanging from the brake line.

If you bleed the brakes just have a friend help you bleed them and make sure you bleed them really good.

6.5) Place the hydrolic jack under the A arm, under the spring and jack it upuntil you see the spring compress a bit, dont jack it up so much that the car raises off the jack stand, just a couple jacks to compress the spring to hold it in place when you remove the CC bolts and what not.

7) Unbolt the Front sway bar bolt

8) Unbolt the 3 caster camber 15mm bolts and remove them

9) SLOWLY lower the jack down this will decompress the spring, the strut may get stuck on its way out, if it does watch as the jack comes down, and if you see the spring not comming on down all the way immediatly jack it back up and put pressure on the spring and untangle the strut so it can come on down and out, stay back when you lower it let it pop on out on its own.

10) Once the spring has fully compressed you should be able to wiggle the A arm up and down a bit to see its not in any danger of poping out, it will be very loostly in there if only compressed a tiny bit, nothing very dangerous. place the jack under the spring and just have it right up next to the A arm. Compress the strut by pulling down in it with both hands, and then ease it out from under the fender (BE VERY CAREFUL not to scratch the fender up!!!!)

11) Now you need to take a crow bar and pry from the back side of the spring while you push down on the A arm a bit the spring will pop out and then you can remove it.

12) Remove the bottom isolator and keep track of the upper isolator (it may be stuck in there or it may all out also... just dont loose it)

13) Slide the bottom isolator on the new spring and sit the spring in the A arm groove correctly, you will see an indent match it to the spring correctly. Now slide the upper isolator in FIRST then slide the spring in this will give you a little extra room so be sure to put the isolator in its spot first then slide the spring over the top perch and over the isolator.

14) You may need a friend to push down on the A arm a bit to pop the new spring in... but once you have it in make sure the bottom of the spring is aligned in the goove correctly and the top isolator is in place correctly and the spring is around the perch correctly.

15) Now compress the strut again with the jack under the A arm holding it up a bit. Once compressed slide it back under the fender and use the jack to jack it up and guide the strut back up and though the strut tower.

16) Once the strut is back though the strut tower loosely bolt it up, just finger tight (all 3 bolts)

17) Check the spring and all of that make sure everything looks right.

18) Jack up the spring until you have it fully compressed, but not so much the car raises off of the jack stands.

19) Tighten the CC bolts down and proceed to put the sway bar back on the end link. This works if both sway bar bolts are removed (the sway bar will swing freely) If you only have one sway bar bolt loose then you will have to guide the endlink into the sway bar AS the jack is jacking up the spring!!!! so remember this.

20) Tighten up the sway bar bolt and drop the jack make sure everything is ok and secure. Now put a little tention on the A arm just to be safe while you put the caliper back on or bleed the brakes. The caliper bolts need to be tqed to 90ftlbs~ the brake line bolt should require 30ftlbs max~

21) Double check the tq on the cc bolts (get the exact spec from a manual)

22) Repeat steps for the other side

23) Place wheels back on the car and put the lug nuts on tight, Remove the jack stands and lower the car. Tq the lug nuts to 95ftlbs~ in a star pattern (criss cross)

24) Place the rear wheel scotches used on the back to the front wheels and loosten the rear lug nuts. Jack up the rear of the car using the rear end pumpking. Place the car on jack stands. The stands should be placed under the Tq boxes (in front of where the lower controls arms bolt to the car NOT the rear end). Remove the rear wheels.

25) Jack the rear end up from under the pumpking maybe one and a half jacks~ and remove the shock bolt on the rear end, its a 19 mm on one side and and 18 mm on the other side, they should not be on very hard, Once the nut is off the bolt the nut SHOULD tap out, if it does not try another half jack and if you still cant try lowering the rear and starting with one jack and what not, you have to find the sweet spot for the bolt to come out, repeat for the other side, usually when one side comes out the other will also at the same time.

26) Lower the rear end slowly making sure the brake lines to not get stretched.

27) Move the jack under one side of the rear end, under one of the lower control arms where it bolts to the rear end. Jack up the rear end this will force the other side to go down as your side goes up. Once it goes down as much as it can it will start to raise the whole rear end upwards, stop right before this so the other side will be as low as possible.

28) Mark which way the pig tails on the rear springs are facing (the bottom part of the spring, where the spring ends.

29) The spring on the side of the rear end that has been lowered should come put pretty easy, you may need a friend to push on the rear end on that side as you pull the spring out, but it should not need much effort to remove it, a little rotating it around may proove very helpful in removing it.

30) Place the new spring back in as the old oen came out make sure you reuse the top and bottom isolators! Make sure the spring's pigtail is facing the same way the old spring's pig tail was.

31) Lower the jack to secure the spring in place and repeat this process for the other side of the car.

32) Jack the rear end up by the pumpkin and put the shocks back on, the bolts should not be massivly tight just pretty snug.

33) Inspect all of the work, make sure the spring is seated on its top perch and on the lower control arms, and that the isolators are in correctly and not bend over or messed up.

34) Place the wheels back on with the lug nuts on hand tight.

35) Lower the car after removing the jack stands and tq the rear lugs to 95ftlbs~ double check all your work and what not and go for a drive and listen for anything odd.... After 20 miles or so double check the tq on the CC bolts and your lug nuts. Also jack up the car for a quick inspection of the install to make sure everything is as it should be.
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Old 11-30-2004, 06:44 PM   #13
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You will not need spring compressors unless you want to put the stock ones back in... and even then you dont need them.

If you are working on a fox body... you will need spring compressors or two hydrolic jacks and removal of the A arm bolts will be needed....
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Old 11-30-2004, 06:47 PM   #14
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Sorry 232Stang, Danger dude is right.. No spring compressors are necessary, I went and got them and took them back.. Never even took them out of my car.
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:37 PM   #15
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Sorry 232Stang, Danger dude is right.. No spring compressors are necessary, I went and got them and took them back.. Never even took them out of my car.
oh i know they are not NECESSARY, but it just makes the job a bit easier.
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:38 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Danger Dude
Note to remember 232stang Steve is the only person I know who uses Spring compressors to change springs on a Mustang!!!!!


Steve's new name Spring Compressor Steve or SCS for short
i use spring compressors on all of the cars i have changed the springs on, its kind of just a habit
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:40 PM   #17
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On my Camaros if you did not use them someone was gonna die when the spring cut loose !!!
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:43 PM   #18
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On my Camaros if you did not use them someone was gonna die when the spring cut loose !!!
yeah i know its really dangerous on some cars, and like i said, i have always used springcompressors because of stuff like that.
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:51 PM   #19
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by the time you can get the compressor on the spring i can have the the front spring in
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:07 PM   #20
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by the time you can get the compressor on the spring i can have the the front spring in
no, you tighten the bolt with an impact wrench and it compresses the spring in no time at all
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Old 12-01-2004, 08:39 AM   #21
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I can still get the front spring out by the time you get it compressed lol

actually probably not cuz i alwasy run into some crap when i try to do a simple install....
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