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Old 12-22-2004, 12:32 AM   #1
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Cutting springs or Buying Springs

I just got my new rims put on, and i must admit, they look nice Anyways,
im looking into dropping the front of my car. Maybe about, an inch. So,
Should i just buy springs, or should i just cut em?
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:39 AM   #2
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buy srpings

H&R is what I recommend
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:42 AM   #3
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eibach prokit
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Old 12-22-2004, 10:21 AM   #4
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buy, then cut.

that's what I'm gonna be doing. or having SpectorV do.
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Old 12-22-2004, 11:42 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by WhiteStang99
buy, then cut.

that's what I'm gonna be doing. or having SpectorV do.
you can only do that with c- springs
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Old 12-22-2004, 02:17 PM   #6
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Springs are not made to be cut. H&R is the way to go. Along with maximum motorsports suspension. They are made for a specific weight. The lower you drop it like my sportlines the stiffer the spring.
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Old 12-22-2004, 03:25 PM   #7
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never cut unless you like to bounce around, and make sure you get a camber kit to save your wheel bearings the grief
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Old 12-22-2004, 03:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Js281GT
Springs are not made to be cut. H&R is the way to go. Along with maximum motorsports suspension. They are made for a specific weight. The lower you drop it like my sportlines the stiffer the spring.
C-Springs are made to be cut
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
you can only do that with c- springs
which is why i'm getting c springs.
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:46 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by WhiteStang99
which is why i'm getting c springs.
get teh prokit for a lower better looking stance
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:51 AM   #11
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c springs.

ntopic:
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:39 AM   #12
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Springs are not made to be cut my dyin @ss.

C springs were never "made" to be cut.

They were made for a different application and Ford says you can cut them to fit a Stang.

Cut your stock springs. 1/2 coil in the front and 3/4 of a coil in hte back will get you about a 1" drop. If you don't like that then you can always p!ss away your money on the "names" mentioned above.


As for the bouncy comment made by some clueless one above, come drive my Stang and tell me if it bounces.

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Holy crap he's right.
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:41 PM   #13
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lol, I remember all this.
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponycarman
Springs are not made to be cut my dyin @ss.

C springs were never "made" to be cut.

They were made for a different application and Ford says you can cut them to fit a Stang.

Cut your stock springs. 1/2 coil in the front and 3/4 of a coil in hte back will get you about a 1" drop. If you don't like that then you can always p!ss away your money on the "names" mentioned above.


As for the bouncy comment made by some clueless one above, come drive my Stang and tell me if it bounces.

Steve
im not questioning you, because i know u know much more about this that i do but, i alwasys heard that utting your springs changed the spring rate. what does it actually do if not?
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Old 12-23-2004, 01:04 PM   #15
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it does change the spring rate. the spring can not hold near the weight it used too especially on ruff serfices which will make it BOUNCE unless you bought a heavy duty shock which would be as much as springs and then some.alot of people have problems with a popping noise too when they cut there springs from it never setting right. you can pick some used springs for a little over a bill if you look around. i got my pro kit for 110.
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Old 12-23-2004, 01:07 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by cjd10
it does change the spring rate. the spring can not hold near the weight it used too especially on ruff serfices which will make it BOUNCE unless you bought a heavy duty shock which would be as much as springs and then some.alot of people have problems with a popping noise too when they cut there springs from it never setting right. you can pick some used springs for a little over a bill if you look around. i got my pro kit for 110.
i have the prokit, im not worried. but ponycar man has cut prings lowered like 2 inches, with stock c/c plates and dampeners
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Old 12-23-2004, 01:13 PM   #17
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I have the stock "c/c plates" on my car still and I have no problems what so ever. I think I have about a 2" drop too. Brent and everybody at the Oct 2nd meet saw my car.
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Old 12-23-2004, 01:16 PM   #18
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i cut my 5.0 when i had it only an inch drop i didnt notice a difference except in the back big time. i lived in chattanooga at the time roads are a little rougher but around turns i could feel my car hopping. if you sat in the back youd notice it too. it feelt like lowering springs with too much sag. looked good though
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Old 12-23-2004, 01:18 PM   #19
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maby it was just ripe springs i already had
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Old 12-23-2004, 05:47 PM   #20
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Yeah, cutting the spring increases the rate. How much? I dunno offhand. I am sure there is a formula out there. If I had a set of stock springs I could measure thier spring rate , cut them and remeasure.

I dunno how accurate comparing the rate of my current 110K + miles cut springs would be to the advertised rate of new uncut springs. Springs can "loosen" up on thier spring rates as they get used, so stock 100K mile springs are probably softer than new springs to begin with.

Now for some info, ANY spring, be it a leaf, coil or torsion bar, needs to have a shock that is rated to control that spring's wheel rate. So any spring that is not the same rate as stock will be mismatched with a stock shock. Not just cut ones. Mismatched shock and spring rates is what causes the hopping mentioned. Especially when the spring rate is considerably higher than the shock rate. If the shock rate is higher then you get a rough ride.

Also, something to consider. I can buy new springs (stock) for about $67/pr. Which is what? $140 for all 4? It doesn't cost any more, or any less, to make a spring for our application in just about any rate or length. So all those aftermarket companies selling spring kits for $200+ are bending us over.

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Old 12-23-2004, 06:42 PM   #21
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I have the sportline springs. They lower all the way to 2 1/4 inches. I am getting the beilsteins (sports) & the maximum motorsports caster cambers intalled this next weekend. How will it ride then? I bet it will handle alot better.
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:58 PM   #22
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bilstiens are amazing, I normally would say new shocks/struts wont make much of a difference unless yours are worn out, being that you have a 2 inch drop.... im sure yours are so it will be a very noticable difference, just ask brent... OH and a tip for when you install the cc plates, there are two wasy to put the top peice on, you can put em on for non lowered or barly droped cars or flip em (side to side) for maximum camber for realy lowered cars, so make SURE you read the directions and do this, also put teh dust boot on the new bump stop BEFORE you slide the bump stop on the strut shaft..... ..... its a pita afterwards.
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Old 12-24-2004, 12:18 AM   #23
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DON'T. I don't recommend cutting the factory springs. You will run into problems in the future. The car will not lower properly, you will have alignment issue along with an uncomfortable ride. The car will bottom out over bumps. Just get a good set of springs like H&R with a good set of shocks. You also will need an alignment afterwards. Good Luck,

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Old 12-24-2004, 12:19 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by fastmustangs1
DON'T. I don't recommend cutting the factory springs. You will run into problems in the future. The car will not lower properly, you will have alignment issue along with an uncomfortable ride. The car will bottom out over bumps. Just get a good set of springs like H&R with a good set of shocks. You also will need an alignment afterwards. Good Luck,

Matt
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Old 12-24-2004, 09:42 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastmustangs1
DON'T. I don't recommend cutting the factory springs.
I did some research and based on your postings to this site you recommendations for any suspension question is "Maximum Motorsports".
While it's an opinion it hard qualifies you as knowlegeable. In fact I harbor a sneaking suspicion you are in someway affiliated with them.
But I could be wrong.





Quote:
You will run into problems in the future. The car will not lower properly,
What do you mean by this? Lowering the car by cutting the springs does require the ability to cut the pairs (front or rear) an equal amount.
It's not hard to do but it does require some skill. I use my table saw with a metal cutting blade. Take about 30 seconds to cut a coil that way.
Remember, measure twice cut once.


Quote:
you will have alignment issue along with an uncomfortable ride.
What alignment issues? Mine aligned up just fine with no CC plates needed and after 10,000 miles on the car since then it has no alignment issues.
Tire wear is nice and even and it handles fine,except for the squirelly rear end which is getting fixed after Christmas. As for the uncomfortable ride,
it all depends on how soft your butt is I guess. yeah my ride is stiffer than stock, but not a lot and it is by no means rough. The biggest issue with
any drop, regardless of how to accomplish it, is the clearance to the bumpstop and the shock travel.




Quote:
The car will bottom out over bumps.
trim the bump stop and get shorter travel shocks. It ain't rocket science and these issues will be there with aftermarker drop springs unless the spring
rate is so high that it minimises the movement of the suspension. That will give you a rough ride. Trimming the bumpstop isn't tough, again I used my
table saw with a woodcutting blade and trimmed an inch off my stop. I think I'll take another 1/2" off since I occasionally hit it going over big bumps.
As for the shocks, you have two choices, ebnd over for the aftermarket guys, like MM, or peruse a shock book and find a shock witht he same mounting specs
but with shorter extended and compressed specs. In my application a set of Mopar A body rear shocks worked fine after I opened up the lower shock mounting
hole from 7/16" to 13mm. I had a set on hand so I went with them.[/QUOTE]



Quote:
Just get a good set of springs like H&R with a good set of shocks.
That'll work too. But it ain't cheap and you will still need the shocks and triming the bumpstop.



Quote:
You also will need an alignment afterwards.
True.

Now for some commentary. All those that say cutting your stock spring will cause problems explain to me why that is so when the Ford C springs can be cut without
any problems and it is NOT because they were designed to be cut. If you want to make that claim you better show me where it says the springs were designed to be cut.
This isn't rocket science but it does require a modicum of ability. I requires you to think and figure things out. It doesn't come in a nice package you can take to
your mechanic and have him install while you get a paper cut writing the check for it. So, keep buying into the aftermarket's "don't cut your springs" line so you can
spend $$$ for thier stuff. Do yourself a favor and price a set of stock replacement springs and compare them to the price of after market springs. Or compare the price
of Ford's C springs to H&R or any of the others. Notice the fairly large price differential. It ain't because MM or H&R or whomever uses better material, has more
engineers or anything other than profit. Then ask yourself why Ford says it's OK to cut thier C springs, and if anyone can show me where Ford says not to cut any other
spring send me a link, yet the aftermarket says no? Could it be because they want to make money and not because there is an inherent problem doing so? Explain to me why
MM's panhard bars is $250+ when I can buy a universal watts linkage kit for under $100 from the street rod aftermarket? Sure I have to mount it and fit it, but MM's kit doesn't
jump out of the box and install itself? Oh yeah, a universal panhard rod kit from those same sources runs about $65. Again, you fit and mount.


I'm not telling anyone the have to cut thier springs, nor am I telling anyone not to buy aftermarket. What I am telling people is the truth, the facts and one way of doing things
that works, assuming you can walk and chew bubblegum. I am also telling you that the aftermarket ain't saving you anything, except maybe time, if you do it yourself. And you gotta
ask if that extra $100 you're gonna spend for those fancy named springs is worth the 10 minutes your gonna save over cutting your own?

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Old 12-24-2004, 10:47 AM   #26
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That'll work too. But it ain't cheap and you will still need the shocks and triming the bumpstop.
no, actually the aftermarket springs come with a shorter bumpstop. :thumbs2:
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Old 12-24-2004, 11:17 AM   #27
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cutting stock springs a little wont cause any major issues other than you being getto and not forking over the money to do it correctly.... I have learned though experience that doing something right, even though it runs alot more cost wise or time wise in the end you save both time and money... you can get away with some things its just a bad idea to try to cut corners to save a few bucks, if you cut more than what it takes to drop the car over an inch you are just looking for issues (not scraping or what not even alignmnet issues these will be there regardless of how you go about droping a car.... just part of a lowered car)

if you simply want your car to look better and no perform then cut em... ive just talked to far to many people who have cutted the springs from 1 coil to 2 coils and have TOTALY regreted ever doing it.
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Old 12-24-2004, 11:54 AM   #28
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My Eibachs lowered my car to just under 2" in the front... and my stock shocks were toasted about 10 miles later

My front tires show excessive signs of wear on the insides due to not being able to get a proper alignment.

I don't see how you can get a proper alignment with Stock Camber plates and a 2" drop.. from my personal experience with my car its not possible
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Old 12-24-2004, 11:57 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponycarman
Springs are not made to be cut my dyin @ss.

C springs were never "made" to be cut.

They were made for a different application and Ford says you can cut them to fit a Stang.

Cut your stock springs. 1/2 coil in the front and 3/4 of a coil in hte back will get you about a 1" drop. If you don't like that then you can always p!ss away your money on the "names" mentioned above.


As for the bouncy comment made by some clueless one above, come drive my Stang and tell me if it bounces.

Steve
Do you have aftermarket shocks/struts or stock ones? I drove my car around for 3-4 months wiht a 2" drop and stock shocks/struts... YOU BOUNCE ALOT!
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Old 12-24-2004, 12:54 PM   #30
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I have been doing it for over a year. I want my bielsteins sooo bad.
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Old 12-25-2004, 08:41 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by 232stang
no, actually the aftermarket springs come with a shorter bumpstop. :thumbs2:

Well, guess that proves my point, but I shudder to think of what they charge for it.

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Old 12-25-2004, 08:43 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by SpectorV
cutting stock springs a little wont cause any major issues other than you being getto and not forking over the money to do it correctly.

How can you tell you lost an argument?

You start name calling. If the sole gist of your argument is "it's ghetto" then you lost and you are W-R-O-N-G.

You are the weakest link, good bye.

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Old 12-25-2004, 08:43 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Brent
Do you have aftermarket shocks/struts or stock ones? I drove my car around for 3-4 months wiht a 2" drop and stock shocks/struts... YOU BOUNCE ALOT!

That question has been answered in my above posting.

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Old 12-25-2004, 09:28 PM   #34
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You know, to be safe, i think i'll just buy the 2 springs. Like i said, all i want is to drop the FRONT of my car just an inch or an inch and a half. I like the back just the way it is. IF i bought 18's, i woyld probably want to raise the rear. Anyways, thank you all for your help. I love this site
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Old 01-05-2005, 01:35 AM   #35
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Another good way to go is with the Kenny Brown suspension package it is fairly good price for all the equip you get with it
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