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Old 01-07-2005, 09:35 AM   #1
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changing it up

Alright guys as you can see by my sig, my car sits a little high. Im not used to this im used to my civic which is just a few inches off the ground. So these are my questions the guy who built the car, I believe built it just for a track car, I dont go to the track I just enjoy driving it as a fun car. Alright he has these suspension mods done to it. Sub-Frame connectors. Adjustable upper control arms, and SouthSide lowers. 50/50 rear shocks, and 90/10 front. Alright what is the adjustable upper control arms and southside lowers?

When I turn the car it tends to be really hard to turn, I love the way the car hooks up when you push down the throttle, but I want it to be able to handle better around the turns, not like a f1 car or anything just a little better turning. How can I do this and still have excellent straight line traction?
More straight line traction then turning!
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Old 01-07-2005, 10:08 AM   #2
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First thing is to dump those 90/10 struts. That;s half the problem, they are straighline drag race only shocks and not really safe for street use.

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Old 01-07-2005, 10:10 AM   #3
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So what should I get?
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Old 01-07-2005, 11:51 AM   #4
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A set of stock replacement struts would be yards better, but there are any number of aftermarket struts out there that'll do the trick.

One thing that makes me wonder, if he went so far as to put 90/10 struts in it what front springs do you have? soft springs in the front along with 90/10 dampers is an old time racers trick to promote weight transfer back to the rear wheels. You may need new springs too.

I'd look into a package deal offered by the aftermarket. I don't know the interchange between your Stang and the later ones, but maybe if it'll fit the Bullit kit is nice and reasonably priced.

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Old 01-07-2005, 12:03 PM   #5
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Where can I find the bullit kit?
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Old 01-07-2005, 03:03 PM   #6
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i would go with H&R 1.5inch drop springs (my friends fox has em it sits perfect!)

tokico s/s (different for fox body cuz the shaft needs to be shorter....)

mm cc plates

mm lca's

make sure the subs are full length weld in

convert to a 5 lug swap with 94-95 front spindles and a rear kit from gefracing.com

pbr front brakes from a 99+ v6 or gt ( grind the bottom edge of the spindle bolt hole and they fit perfectly and look great with a little smoothing and painting, they are aluminum so sae 8lbs per side adn stop 30% better)

you could also get cobra brakes if you wanted (with 17 inch rims)

17 inch 03 cobra rims look awsoem on fox bodies. 255/40/17s front and 275/40/17 rear
(I ONLY authorize this due to you must on a fox unless you like horrid rubbing... or you get 8 wide rims on the front and run 245/45/17s)

the end result looks amazing i need to get pics of his car.. brent has seen it, its white like your sand a hatch also.
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Old 01-07-2005, 04:15 PM   #7
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[I agree with with you. Maximum everything. But I would get the belsteins. QUOTE=SpectorV]i would go with H&R 1.5inch drop springs (my friends fox has em it sits perfect!)

tokico s/s (different for fox body cuz the shaft needs to be shorter....)

mm cc plates

mm lca's

make sure the subs are full length weld in

convert to a 5 lug swap with 94-95 front spindles and a rear kit from gefracing.com

pbr front brakes from a 99+ v6 or gt ( grind the bottom edge of the spindle bolt hole and they fit perfectly and look great with a little smoothing and painting, they are aluminum so sae 8lbs per side adn stop 30% better)

you could also get cobra brakes if you wanted (with 17 inch rims)

17 inch 03 cobra rims look awsoem on fox bodies. 255/40/17s front and 275/40/17 rear
(I ONLY authorize this due to you must on a fox unless you like horrid rubbing... or you get 8 wide rims on the front and run 245/45/17s)

the end result looks amazing i need to get pics of his car.. brent has seen it, its white like your sand a hatch also.[/QUOTE]
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I have an 01GT w/ frpp 3:73's, sportline springs, wms cold-air w/95mm mass-air, (ceramic) BBK equal length headers (ceramic) mac 70mm t. body, trickflow intake plenium, mac pro-chamber, flowmaster catback, Nitto drags, NX N20 150hp jets, & some good predator tuning! Best E.T. 11.79 @ 118.4mph :drive:

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Old 01-07-2005, 04:16 PM   #8
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Sorry I don't know what happened.
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I have an 01GT w/ frpp 3:73's, sportline springs, wms cold-air w/95mm mass-air, (ceramic) BBK equal length headers (ceramic) mac 70mm t. body, trickflow intake plenium, mac pro-chamber, flowmaster catback, Nitto drags, NX N20 150hp jets, & some good predator tuning! Best E.T. 11.79 @ 118.4mph :drive:

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\jon.straszewski\Desktop\TOP ****y to bar 020.JPG[/IMG]
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Old 01-07-2005, 04:32 PM   #9
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:50 PM   #10
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Alright thanks spector, and ponycarman, js281 im still confused on what you're trying to say, besides the fact you quoted spector. anyway I emailed steeda and talked to a guy named fred mills, he made a really good suggestion I think. He said leave the 90/10's and just get some better swaybars that way I still have the traction for drag, but it reduces body roll when I go into the turns. So I'm excited to figure out the answer to this question.
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Old 01-10-2005, 03:45 PM   #11
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O.k. if I read the thread correctly you want to be able to turn better but you still want traction in a straight line because you like drag racing better? I believe it was already said but your shocks should help the weight transfer to the back when launching. Depending on how much of a difference you feel it would make (pros v.s. cons) I'd get rid of those skinny *** front tires. I can't believe you don't have unbearably massive understeer with those things. That will make more drag on your straight line runs though. As far as mustangs are concerned, isn't a really good mod suspension wise the K-member? I was pretty sure that was their downfall but I'll have to ask my more experienced father next time I get a chance. Also, doesn't a stiffer chassis dramatically improve handling in every aspect? I'm sure it's a more expensive mod and not sure how much difference it will make but ladder bars or some extra braces on the lower part of the frame should help out. For some reason I feel as if everything I said here is wrong so disregard everything in this post until somebody respectable confirms what I've said, haha
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Old 01-11-2005, 07:19 AM   #12
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Yeah he has some sub-frame connectors on their. But i'm not talking about road racing or anything. It just tends to twist real bad when I go around a turn due to the 90/10's transfering the front weight. The front tires and wheels you are right about I would like for them to go but I dont have the money for new wheels and tires right now. Also I am trying to upgrade the struts, rear sway bar/tie bar, and front tie bar on my civic. So of course money is always the issue. Also will it be harder to turn the front wheels with wider ones on there since I dont have power steering?
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Old 01-11-2005, 04:38 PM   #13
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steeda is subpar compared to mm ... trust me call mm and go with them BLOW steeda out of the water.
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Old 01-12-2005, 07:17 AM   #14
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Spector what is mm I dont know that name?
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Old 01-12-2005, 03:39 PM   #15
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anybody know what mm stands for?
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So many Struggles, So many Trials, So many reasons for me to Fall, But I have all Strength, And I have all Power, And I will Bury You!
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Old 01-12-2005, 04:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theglory
anybody know what mm stands for?
i was wondering the same thing
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Old 01-12-2005, 04:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theglory
Yeah he has some sub-frame connectors on their. But i'm not talking about road racing or anything. It just tends to twist real bad when I go around a turn due to the 90/10's transfering the front weight. The front tires and wheels you are right about I would like for them to go but I dont have the money for new wheels and tires right now. Also I am trying to upgrade the struts, rear sway bar/tie bar, and front tie bar on my civic. So of course money is always the issue. Also will it be harder to turn the front wheels with wider ones on there since I dont have power steering?
Cars that were built without power steering aren't really that difficult to turn. Cars that are supposed to have power steering and don't are a little bit harder. The added friction of the wider tires may make it more difficult but not unbearable or even anything close. Plus as I'm sure you already know, when you at speeds then it's not difficult at all.

and MM= the only company I've ever heard refferred to as MM is mille miglia but I'm certain that is not what he is talking about
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Old 01-12-2005, 05:13 PM   #18
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maximum motorsports?
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Old 01-12-2005, 05:43 PM   #19
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Man there are so many different manufactures of SFC's to narrowly choose just one brand without checking all the products out there. Quailty and Value are both equally important. The other thing is any SFC is better than none at all. Honestly MM makes some good stuff but I have seen equally good stuff and better. All SFC''s are tubular metal and only the type of material it is made of and the length makes the difference. MM or Global does not extrude the metal they use they buy it.
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Old 01-12-2005, 05:59 PM   #20
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So does MM = Max. Motorsports...?
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Old 01-12-2005, 06:27 PM   #21
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yes it does
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Old 01-12-2005, 08:04 PM   #22
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Wink

Global West subframe connectors I think are probably superior to MM, The main difference is square or rectangular tubular or round tublular, GW uses round tubular, which in my opinion is stronger, Don't think they will work with my Cobra IRS though, even MM might have to be trimmed some. I have been thinking of going with Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix subframe connectors, what I have is something like Steeda tubular clones, which are 3/4 length, not full length, and I don't have cross braces on them. The KB extreme matrix will work with the Cobra IRS rear and I like the matrix bracing, they are a bit pricey when you buy the whole setup, but I think probably worth it. Steeda now has a full length subframe connector on the market available in galvanized or regular steel, they look about identical to MMs. Might be made by MM, who knows?
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:52 AM   #23
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Alright I went to maximum motosports website and looked at their products their lower control arms do look like a better design. And since they're tubular they look to be stronger also. They look like they actually put more r&d into theres compared to steeda's which are just a set of square tubing with a bracket welded on basically. One question are those control arms made to handle any amount of horsepower?
Steeda had different bushings for more horsepower applications.
Also mm had eibach sway bars front/rear together for $30 cheaper than steedas products. I know eibach is a very good quality product I have their springs on my civic. Which ones do you guys think I should go with?????????

I dont want to change those control arms and swaybars and start having wheel hop and less traction and stuff, do you guys think this will happen?????????????
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Old 01-14-2005, 07:07 AM   #24
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anybody?
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Old 01-14-2005, 01:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theglory
anybody?
you may have to end up calling professionals and asking...it couldn't hurt
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Old 01-14-2005, 03:54 PM   #26
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Why would you get wheel hop when you change control arms and sway bars. If you are upgrading it will reduce it especially if yours are stock now.
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Old 01-14-2005, 04:42 PM   #27
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Maximum Motorsports are bullitt proof. They are the best.
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I have an 01GT w/ frpp 3:73's, sportline springs, wms cold-air w/95mm mass-air, (ceramic) BBK equal length headers (ceramic) mac 70mm t. body, trickflow intake plenium, mac pro-chamber, flowmaster catback, Nitto drags, NX N20 150hp jets, & some good predator tuning! Best E.T. 11.79 @ 118.4mph :drive:

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Old 01-14-2005, 05:45 PM   #28
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Once again MM sells some good products but I will not let the suspension area become a mob rule who just spurt out MM every time someone ask questions. That is like another well known site has people jump on when someone ask about mufflers and all they say is Spintech. That is just not going to happen. There are to many companies making good products to ignore and unless MM wants to pay for advertisments, there will be room for other quality products to be considered. At the same time I am not about to try and change someones mind on what they want unless the choice might be wrong for their specific applications
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Old 01-14-2005, 06:43 PM   #29
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many companies make great products, but maximum motorsports are better than anyone elses lol you can do what ever you want but... i know where ill be spending my money
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Old 01-14-2005, 07:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
many companies make great products, but maximum motorsports are better than anyone elses lol you can do what ever you want but... i know where ill be spending my money

Good for you! Who's trying to sway your mind????? Then you wont mind if I give mention to people other companies products will you !!! I guess it does not matter if you do!
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