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Old 01-10-2005, 06:34 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mill
She's right you have no idea. (pssssst.....the lady packs a gun! )
Sorry for whoring your thread Wendy.
Whore away Mill! You are always welcome on my threads!

and to the rest of you.... Don't MAKE me have to SHOOT you! :ar15: BAHAHAHA! JK.
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Old 01-10-2005, 06:39 PM   #37
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let down due to stock autos are horrid lol you start life out with a half second disadvantage and when you get alot of power it gets worse... build it with a tq converter, shfit kit, etc and in a straight line it will be faster than a manual or at least even, it just costs ALOT more
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Old 01-10-2005, 09:11 PM   #38
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its lookin good wendy!!
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Old 01-11-2005, 12:23 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
let down due to stock autos are horrid lol you start life out with a half second disadvantage and when you get alot of power it gets worse... build it with a tq converter, shfit kit, etc and in a straight line it will be faster than a manual or at least even, it just costs ALOT more
they still cant match the power output but that can be made up for with gearing and launchability.
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Old 01-11-2005, 04:59 PM   #40
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yea but you can do the same to a manual with gears and slicks.... if i bracket raced an auto would be the ONLY way to go however.
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Old 01-12-2005, 08:35 AM   #41
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Hope your stock internals will hold up, I wouldnt kill it on the rpms very much lol/.

My next big project will be a built 4.2 shortblock from RPM, then a S/C and some high boost! I may go to splitport at that time as well...
Shooting or 500rwhp will be my goal.
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

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Old 01-14-2005, 05:15 PM   #42
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Well, we are past what I would call the midpoint and have been making good time it seems. Here are some pic updates.... (it isn't rusty, it's covered in oil - my camera can't seem to get the colors just right.



On that last one you could see that the #3 piston was where the headgasket was leaking.





The cam has been changed and the heads are ready to bolt down. The most time consuming thing was cleaning the engine and scraping off all the old gasket parts. The worst was the sludge from the coolant leaking into the engine. Now we are set to go!

More to come...
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Old 01-14-2005, 06:02 PM   #43
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Cool picks Wendy. I looked at your mod list and was wondering if you had hardened Push rods for this application or you were going with stock. With the pressures your engine will be putting on the valve train hardened push rods would be extra insurance. I have seen many cars with bent push rods simple because they did all the mods and forgot to get new push rods
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Old 01-14-2005, 10:20 PM   #44
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Stock pushrods are going back in. I talked to a few people running around 400hp and no one had had any problems so I also will take my chances.
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Old 01-14-2005, 10:24 PM   #45
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Cool it is not a necessity unless you drive and start hearing valve train noise and you know then you probably have bent one or more. Luckly it wont usually damage your engine if it does happen.
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Old 01-15-2005, 09:04 PM   #46
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Well, its all going ok. I don't have pics tonight because I forgot and left my camera in the shop. We are hung up waiting for intake bolts (from lower intake to heads- they are different for 96-98 heads than 95's). I also decided to go with a Lightening MAF so I am waiting for that too. I would say another 4-5 days though depending on when we get stuff. Who knows what else we will run into on the way. There is so much to do. We still have a lot to put on and have to work the exhaust over so it will hook on to the long tubes. Just time consuming!
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:50 PM   #47
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How many helping you!! I did a complete Cam, Heads, intakes in approx 8 1/2 hours. I had 2 people come help me with the cleaning, scraping and preping. Air tools are the secret to disassembly. Bagging and labeling everything taken off is also the key to easy reassembly.
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:57 PM   #48
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damn i want that kit....
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:30 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger Dude
Cool it is not a necessity unless you drive and start hearing valve train noise and you know then you probably have bent one or more. Luckly it wont usually damage your engine if it does happen.
What do these noises sound like?
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:38 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger Dude
How many helping you!! I did a complete Cam, Heads, intakes in approx 8 1/2 hours. I had 2 people come help me with the cleaning, scraping and preping. Air tools are the secret to disassembly. Bagging and labeling everything taken off is also the key to easy reassembly.
I'd say 10 hours solid work between Brandon and I (and I am not like having a true man) up to this point. We also had a mechanic friend, Hoyt, who normally works on trucks at a mine here come by for about 3 hours to help with the cam and timing chain and a few other things. I have taken numberous pics at every stage and have been labeling most things as they come off. If we hadn't run into the bolt problem, we would have both intakes on and be moving on and finishing today. We haven't used air tools too much, just taking our time.
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:08 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendyc
I'd say 10 hours solid work between Brandon and I (and I am not like having a true man) up to this point. We also had a mechanic friend, Hoyt, who normally works on trucks at a mine here come by for about 3 hours to help with the cam and timing chain and a few other things. I have taken numberous pics at every stage and have been labeling most things as they come off. If we hadn't run into the bolt problem, we would have both intakes on and be moving on and finishing today. We haven't used air tools too much, just taking our time.
That is not bad at all. Air tools are an option that just cuts down on time and gives you more time for prep. If you can spread it over a couple of days that is cool, I was on a schedule to complete in 1 day and started at 7am took a 9 am break for a hour after the disassembly took a 2 hour lunch after the cam and timing cover and water pump was back on at 12noon started final prep at 2pm and started installs taking a break around 4pm then finished installs and started the engine at 7 pm and drove it to a Mustang meet
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:09 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent
What do these noises sound like?

You just start to hear valve train clatter that will get noisier and noisier. Might start off as a slight tick and just get louder
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:48 PM   #53
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I'm going crazy trying to figure out what my knocking noise is
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Old 01-16-2005, 05:03 PM   #54
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swaps alwasy take more time and money than you expect so budget more of both
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Old 01-16-2005, 05:24 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
swaps alwasy take more time and money than you expect so budget more of both
Exactly that is why I had just about 2 of every gasket, seal. I had all my screw extractors and easy outs not to mention my screw knocker, Mouse Milk penetrating oil ready for any frozen bolts as well as Thread taps and thread chasers. I also have a complete Heli-Coils set of SAE and Metric threads. No matter what I was to find on disassembly I was ready. Murphy was not allowed at my swap BY GOD!!!
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:30 PM   #56
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yup, and if i ever have my stuff..... you can come help me but i dont see that day any time soon.
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Old 01-17-2005, 10:19 PM   #57
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OK time for the next installment. We are still waiting on bolts so we are working around it as you can see....







At one point I got to the point I was starting to act like Mikey on OCC (Orange County Chopper) so I decided to go paint and generally be worthless. lol Here are just a few of the pics....





Here are a couple of pics of the vortech:



By the way I thought I was really smart but I guess I wasn't.... lol. I watched OCC too many times and in an effort to block off the old 02 sensors, I fabricated plugs out of the old ones. Then I learned that you can't block the primaries. Apparently they monitor Air/Fuel.... Anyway, here are the pics of my 'great idea'. lol. I might keep these and make them refrigerator magnets... live and learn!



Guess that's all for now!
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Old 01-18-2005, 05:23 AM   #58
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dam ****s coming together pretty good. this is prolly the first real step by step buildup ive seen on this site the 2 years or such ive been around. good work
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Old 01-18-2005, 07:35 AM   #59
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Great progress.

Looks good
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Old 01-18-2005, 08:19 AM   #60
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looks like all is coming together nicely! Cant wait to hear your reaction when its finished.
Whats th clearance like on those LT's? Are you getting MIL eliminators or is that nessisary? I guess you are going with an offroad X? Are you going to weld it or just go with bolting it up? Reason im asking is cause Im about to get me some LT's with offroad X-pipe when I get my tax money back.
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

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Old 01-18-2005, 01:18 PM   #61
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I have so many pics, I am just trying to show the ones where you can tell a good amount of progress. I have taken step by step pics. Thank goodness for digital cameras!

Funny you should mention exhaust Green Stallion. That is what I am pondering today. I was going to just move the coupler back removing the high flow cats I had, weld it back on and bolt that to the new headers... however... when we took my custom duals off and measured the pipes, they were 2" not the 2.25" they were supposed to be. Ideal would be 2.5" so this was a nightmare. I can either go with the MAC H for long tubes or work over a universal X. Then we can run just about any catback from there. I am pondering which brand or if I should take it to another muffler shop. Magnaflow and Bassani are in the front running but Bassani is pretty pricey. This is one expense I was trying to put off for a while.
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Old 01-18-2005, 01:41 PM   #62
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Dynomax Ultraflows, Borla's and Magnaflows are all flow thru mufflers and will provide better exhaust floww and will give you better HP numbers as they are less restrictive than Chambered or baffled mufflers. Plus all three come in Stainless and are of the highest quality construction at a reasonable price
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Old 01-18-2005, 02:02 PM   #63
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Another one that Danger missed is Magnaflow but he is right
These in my opinion have the best sound
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Old 01-18-2005, 02:15 PM   #64
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I did not miss Magnaflows (Please read my post again)
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Old 01-18-2005, 02:16 PM   #65
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:no: I can't believe I missed that
Well I feel like an idiot now
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Old 01-18-2005, 09:00 PM   #66
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Wendyc what are you going to do with your EGR and what year is your car? If you trash it what would you sell it for?
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Old 01-19-2005, 12:18 PM   #67
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My EGR is off and isn't going back. I need to check it because I think we cut something to get it off. $10 for my trouble + shipping and it's yours. (Yes and I'll get you a pic and see what would need done to get it back on.)

Edit, oh yeah and the car is a '95.
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Old 01-19-2005, 06:14 PM   #68
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wendyc you got yourself a deal!!!
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Old 01-19-2005, 07:51 PM   #69
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Sorry I didn't get a pic of the EGR like I promised. I'll try tomorrow. We had a MAJOR issue today. One of the little weenie 6mm bolts I was waiting on (special order ford) from the intakes to the heads decided to break off in the head. So anyway, we got it drilled out and got the lower on finally...

Danger Dude,
Should there be a problem putting the roller rockers on with the lower intake on? Please say no prob.
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Old 01-19-2005, 08:43 PM   #70
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Quote:
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Sorry I didn't get a pic of the EGR like I promised. I'll try tomorrow. We had a MAJOR issue today. One of the little weenie 6mm bolts I was waiting on (special order ford) from the intakes to the heads decided to break off in the head. So anyway, we got it drilled out and got the lower on finally...

Danger Dude,
Should there be a problem putting the roller rockers on with the lower intake on? Please say no prob.
There is no problems doing it that way. Just have a slightly harder time determining when a Lifter is at the lowest point and where both valves would be closed at the top of the compression stroke. Visually seeing the lifter is a sure fire way to know when you are there. I would personally do it with the lower intake off. even if it meant taking it back off and getting new intake gaskets
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