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Old 02-17-2005, 08:43 PM   #1
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Question Weird Sounds... Please Help

Okay... Here's the thing...

Bought Mustang back in August.

Year 1997
Make Ford
Model Mustang Pony
Body Style Coupe
Doors 2
Ext. Color Ruby Red
Int. Color Gray
Engine (L / ci) 3.8L / 232ci
rwhp / rwtq 150 hp / 215 ft/lbs
Transmission 5 Speed
Purchased 2004


No Mods or anything.


As the weather started to get colder, I began to notice a weird noise when I first started my car up. It would go away after 15 min. or so. Noise got worse and was only heard when clutch was depressed. Noise got even MORE worse and I realized the temperature didn't matter and that the noise was present whether or not the clutch was depressed. However it does tend to get worse while releasing at the very end. Took it to a mechanic who didn't know what was going on and now I'm posting up here. My cousin and I were listening closely and almost definitely determined that the sound was comming from 1 or more of the 3 parts that are pointed out in the pics. Let me know if you can help. I also have sound files which you can slightly hear the noises in! It sounds much louder in person and it is very embarassing (to me), so please help in any way you can.


The pics are pointing to the black bottle cap looking thing on the left, strange rectangular box in the back, and silver circular thing on the right. (Just in case I didn't already make it obvious enough)

Pic 1


Pic 2


Pic 3


Pic 4





Sound From Inside Car
From 8 seconds to 13 seconds you can hear me playing with the end of the clutch. Then, from 20-24 seconds you can hear it in a more continuous sound as I give a little gas.

Sound From Outside Car
On this one the sound is noticeable from startup to 11 seconds and then if you know what to listen for is slightly noticeable for the rest of the clip.




Also... I had my brake pads replaced at the same time the mechanic was supposed to get rid of this noise. They made the usual HORRIBLE SQUEALING noise that brakes make when they need to be replaced. They needed to be replaced anyway, but they still make the same noise. I know that some brakes make a squealing noise shortly after you get them installed, but it has been two months since they were changed. Any idea why and or how to fix it?
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:52 PM   #2
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Standby, I'm looking at the pics and listening to the files, that's your EGR system though bud!
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:54 PM   #3
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Thanks, but what's EGR.
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:57 PM   #4
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well i can't listen to the wav files because of the files because of the filter at work, but if you say it's coming from there, then it's probably clogged and allowing air to pass through ALL the time. And you might have lots of carbon built up there really bad making a whistle sound. That's just what I think, I don't know for sure yet with out listening to the files.
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:59 PM   #5
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Well, it's not really a whistle. More like a strange rattling noise, or like an electrical spark... something like that.
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:59 PM   #6
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EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It sends unburnt gas fumes into your intake to be reburnt. It's an emissions thing. Not all 100% of the fumes make it, just a percentage.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:00 PM   #7
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Hmm, well I'll listen to it later when I get home and see. A rattle though, that doesn't make sense.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:01 PM   #8
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Wow! Never knew that. Hehe Thanks

I'll be waiting! Also, if you want I can redo the file and up it in a diff format.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:09 PM   #9
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I can't help, but this is exactly what people need to post when they have a problem. Excellent job describing the problem. :thumbs2:

I hope you get it figured out.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:20 PM   #10
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So its a ticking noise?

If its a ticking noise somewhere in your egr is leaking/bad... mine does the same thing. It almost sounds like you got a slight knock from what I could tell which could mean a rod knocking

Do you have any check engine lights coming on? A faulty egr will throw a code...

If its a ticking noise and you dont have a check engine light then I would guess you have a valve sticking.. its really hard to tell from those sound clips though...

Listening to it more is it a pulsating ticking noise? Do your rpms rev up and down slightly at idle?

Hold a dollar bill up to your exhaust tip and see if you can see it try to suck the dollar bill up into the exhaust...

It is really hard to tell though
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:27 PM   #11
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SC doesnt have emmissions as far as I know so you could buy a EGR delete kit from 97stallion and remove the egr totally and if that is the problem it will fix it. The only hard part of the egr delete is getting nut on the header off.

If its a pulsating ticking noise I would think it would be egr related especially since you were drawn to that area of the engine
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:31 PM   #12
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Thanks WhiteStang99!

Brent: I don't really know the best way to describe it. I can say that it is the pulsating noise you hear right after the car starts in the second sound clip. If you are hearing a knocking noise, it's probably just me holding the camera.

I don't have any check engine lights and I don't think that the rpms change at idle.

I'll have to try that dollar bill thing tomorrow. If anything happens, I'll let you know.

I also have two more questions... When I first got the car, the clutch was more sensitive (responsive) when you first start to release it. Now it's not very sensitive until later in the release. My bro said he thinks I drive to hard, but I don't really know, so I'm asking now.

Question 2... As you can tell from the pictures, under the hood is REALLY dirty. Was wondering if it would be safe to remove the battery and hose it down. After all, cars have to handle moisture every day, right? Not like I'm running it through a pool or anything.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:38 PM   #13
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You know , it could be your PCV valve. If you say it's a ticking noise. Pull the valve out of the passenger side valve cover and cover the little hole on the bottom of it, if the noise stops, you valve is bad.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:39 PM   #14
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OH ya, SC doesn't have emissions
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaroldMGray
Thanks WhiteStang99!

Brent: I don't really know the best way to describe it. I can say that it is the pulsating noise you hear right after the car starts in the second sound clip. If you are hearing a knocking noise, it's probably just me holding the camera.

I don't have any check engine lights and I don't think that the rpms change at idle.

I'll have to try that dollar bill thing tomorrow. If anything happens, I'll let you know.

I also have two more questions... When I first got the car, the clutch was more sensitive (responsive) when you first start to release it. Now it's not very sensitive until later in the release. My bro said he thinks I drive to hard, but I don't really know, so I'm asking now.

Question 2... As you can tell from the pictures, under the hood is REALLY dirty. Was wondering if it would be safe to remove the battery and hose it down. After all, cars have to handle moisture every day, right? Not like I'm running it through a pool or anything.
I wouldnt hose it down. By some engine degreaser and carefully clean it up. There is to much electrical equipement to worry about to be dumping 100's of gallons of water on.

You can take the air intake off and clean that.

You can get a spray bottle and use it with the engine degreaser to spray it down after you let the degreaser soak in and then wipe it down with some towels.

But it is dirty I will give you that much.

If its a pulsating ticking noise and you arent getting any codes I would have to go with rob on the pcv valve. A faulty egr would throw codes I would think but then again a pcv valve might as well.

Try the trick 97stallion told you to do and see what happens.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:44 PM   #16
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I didnt see where you listed miles? How many miles are on the car?
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:03 PM   #17
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As you might already have figured out, I don't know much about cars... so, what is a PCV valve? I'll have to try that tomorrow too, as long as I can find it.

Also, when you say
Quote:
OH ya, SC doesn't have emissions
. Are you saying that I can legally cut out my cats?


Thanks for the cleanup tip Brent.

My car has roughly 96,000 miles on it. Had 94,450 when I got it back in August.
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
. Are you saying that I can legally cut out my cats?
No one can legally cut off your cats but if you happen to lose the cats somehow you don't have inspections so no one will care.

Basically if you can get the cats off then you won't have any problems as long as you don't have to get inspected.

Your pcv valve is on your passenger side valve cover. There is a valve sticking in the valve cover on the top. Pull that valve out and put your finger in the area where the plug was. If the noise goes away you have a bad pcv valve.

If you still here the noise then I am guessing a bad EGR valve.

Go to autozone or any autoparts store and pick up a Haynes Manual for your year. As alot of useful information in it as far as where things are located and how to change things out.
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:22 PM   #19
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Okay, so, lets say I "lose" my cats and for some strange reason (tail-light out) I get pulled over. If the cop notices that my car is loud or smells funny... I dunno. Could he force me to have my car inspected? Or to rephrase, what would have to happen to require me to have my car inspected?

Thanks for narrowing down my search! I'll check tomorrow after school. I've been meaning to pick up a Haynes Manual for a while now, just never got around to doing it.

One more thing, what does PCV stand for?
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:36 PM   #20
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It stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

He can not make make you get a inspection because they do not exist in South Carolina

You may get a noise violation ticket but usually you will jsut get the ticket he pulled you over for.
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent
It stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

He can not make make you get a inspection because they do not exist in South Carolina

You may get a noise violation ticket but usually you will jsut get the ticket he pulled you over for.
It's kinda the same thing as tint... my tint isn't legal, but when I get pulled over I've never had a thing said about my tint, just about whatever it is they pulled me over for. Man, i'm ready to see how these new tires handle around 110...
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:51 PM   #22
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HEHEHEHE... sounds like I have some work to do! :angryfire Okay, so what exactly goes into "losing" my cats? Do I just cut out the part where the cat is and weld an empty piece of pipe in?
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:53 PM   #23
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Well...you have 4 cats, 2 on each side...coming down from the header. Easiest way to delete them is to get new headers with no cats..
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:55 PM   #24
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Easiest way is to buy a Mac offroad h pipe

Bolts right up to the headers.

You will need a chip to get rid of the check engine light it will give you but it isnt need if you dont mind the light.
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:05 PM   #25
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Seems like it would be easier to just get H-Pipe, but where can I get it and the Chip... Lookin at BIG $$$ or petty cash?

Also, would it go back to Y, or would I have to change over to True Dual. If I went to True Dual, would I loose: Performance/Power/Mileage?
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:15 PM   #26
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If you got the mac h pipe you will have to buy a cat back as well. Such as the gt take offs or any v8 catback for the same year mustang should work.

Chips email justin at velocitymustangperformance.com and he can get you set up with that. Chips arent cheap however. It will run you about 300 for the chip 150 for the h pipe and 100ish for the gt take offs....

then you gotta get the h pipe and take offs installed.

First however I would figure out what that noise is
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:34 PM   #27
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Thanks... plan on finding the noise tomorrow, but for now it is time to sleep so that I can actually get out of bed tomorrow!

Good Night All.
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:48 PM   #28
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My car makes the same noise when I start it up. Like a low whining when you rev the engine a bit? If you figure it out post it up so I can check it out. Thanks
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Old 02-18-2005, 06:57 AM   #29
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I'm hoping it's only the PCV valve... then it's only 3-5 bucks for replacement.
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Old 02-18-2005, 05:07 PM   #30
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Ignore this... fount out is NOT PCV Valve! Also found out where it is!



Okay... back again.

Found the valve... or so I thought!










Where's Waldo? AKA PCV Valve

Try to find it in these pictures and e-mail me the picture with an arrow pointed to it. haroldmgray@bellsouth.net






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Old 02-18-2005, 05:12 PM   #31
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Okay, now I (actually my friend) replaced my PVC valve and we know that it needed to be replaced b/c it was cracking. The sound still remains and my friend and I are both pretty sure that it comes from deeper within the car. So, when he and I have time, he's going to help me jack it up and make sure nothing is touching on the bottom of the car. It's kind of weird though that the noise would get worse over this time just from touching. Wonder if it has anything to do with the clutch... Any more suggestions?
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Old 02-18-2005, 05:43 PM   #32
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if its the deep constant thrumming noise (like 2 hits per second) it sounds like an exhaust leak to me.. (can't tell for sure without hearing it in person)
if its the air like hiss/grinding hiss type noise turn car off, disconnect IAC, start car, see if the sounds still there..

I'm assuming you're talking about the thrumming noise since you can hear it from inside the car, though..
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Old 02-19-2005, 09:03 AM   #33
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It's not really like air... more like metal rubbing together.
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Old 03-14-2005, 09:48 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaroldMGray
As the weather started to get colder, I began to notice a weird noise when I first started my car up. It would go away after 15 min. or so. Noise got worse and was only heard when clutch was depressed. Noise got even MORE worse and I realized the temperature didn't matter and that the noise was present whether or not the clutch was depressed. However it does tend to get worse while releasing at the very end.

Also... I had my brake pads replaced at the same time the mechanic was supposed to get rid of this noise. They made the usual HORRIBLE SQUEALING noise that brakes make when they need to be replaced. They needed to be replaced anyway, but they still make the same noise. I know that some brakes make a squealing noise shortly after you get them installed, but it has been two months since they were changed. Any idea why and or how to fix it?
Don't know if you have found out what is wrong with your car yet, but I have some ideas that might help...

You mention that you have a manual transmission, and that the clutch is less responsive now than when you first got the car, you also said that your breaks where squealing.

Not sure if you have already thought of this but the clutch and the brakes are both powered by the master cylinder.

Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, I used the picture of your engine compartment to show you where to look, and what to look for...

New brake/clutch fluid should look clear like water, but once it has been in the brake/clutch lines for a while it is normal for it to change color, most of the time it looks grey, or black but it should still be transparent, and NOT thick. If it looks like it has dirt in it, seems too thick, "and, or" is no longer transparent= Get your brake/clutch fluid, and lines flushed!!!

If none of the above applies to your car, or if the damage has already gone too far, you will most likely have to take it to a transmission shop, to have the clutch bearings checked out, and to make sure your manual transmission fluid has not been burnt. (unless you know someone who can do it for you...)
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Old 03-14-2005, 10:00 AM   #35
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It does sound like the PCV valve clattering. It is located right next to the EGR Black knob you circled. The PCV is mounted into the valve cover on the pasanger side to the back. just pull it out and replace it. The PCV valve can be found at any auto parts store
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