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Old 03-31-2005, 11:22 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Danger Dude
Actually the science behind slotted rotors is to allow the excaping of gasses and brake dust that glaze around the pad on smooth rotors. The slotts actually allow the dust and gasses to excape as they are swept away when passing the slots. The result is more positive braking..
That is gas fade. this also the reason why you see the fins on the rotor, to let gas escape.
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Old 03-31-2005, 11:22 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McGrail482
should i replace the rear pads?
Typically you will have to change your rear brakes about every third front brake change.

So the answer is look and see how much pad is there. With cool brakes take your finger and feel how much pad is there if it seems to be more than a 1/4 of an inch you have quite a bit of life left in them
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Old 04-14-2005, 06:15 PM   #73
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Most of my stuff has come in: PBR Calipers, Front Pads, and Rotors. My paint is on back order and i want to make sure the stock lines will fit before i order the SS ones. So i pull off the tires and from what i can see there are only two bolts to get the calipers off and i spend about an hour trying to get those babies off but no luck They look like they have never been off. Anyone have any ideas on how i can get them off?
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Old 04-15-2005, 12:09 AM   #74
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Long handled ratchet or ideally air tools are nice.
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Old 04-15-2005, 12:11 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by McGrail482
Most of my stuff has come in: PBR Calipers, Front Pads, and Rotors. My paint is on back order and i want to make sure the stock lines will fit before i order the SS ones. So i pull off the tires and from what i can see there are only two bolts to get the calipers off and i spend about an hour trying to get those babies off but no luck They look like they have never been off. Anyone have any ideas on how i can get them off?
breaker bar, or get your ratchet and attatch a tube through it to get better leverage.
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Old 04-15-2005, 10:31 PM   #76
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haha already tried the tube on the ratchet...im going to try again tom...is there anything i can spray on to loosen it up?

i tried WD40
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Old 04-15-2005, 11:48 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by McGrail482
haha already tried the tube on the ratchet...im going to try again tom...is there anything i can spray on to loosen it up?

i tried WD40
get an impact wrench. dude you should be able to do it witha breaker bar, just put some muscle into it.
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Old 04-16-2005, 10:55 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger Dude
Actually the science behind slotted rotors is to allow the excaping of gasses and brake dust that glaze around the pad on smooth rotors. The slotts actually allow the dust and gasses to excape as they are swept away when passing the slots. The result is more positive braking. The down side is longivity not being able to turn them. The best thing to do is if you get slotted brakes make sure the front pads are chamfered or beveled back and front.
new brake pads dont have gas fade issues, thus back in the old days when they did... slots and drilled holes did help, today they are for looks far more than performance, if you want true performance regular rotors are for you... you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track and rag on em they will get to hot and BAM ruined...
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Old 04-16-2005, 12:55 PM   #79
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Actually almost all brakes pads still have issues with gass build up unless they are chamfered or beveled. But the problem there is you lose 10% of the pad surface that does not even touch the rotor. The bonding make up of Kevlar or Semi metalic cause the gases. The only brake pad that does not is ceramic and as we all know creamic is crap on a street car and very poor in rain or extreme cold
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Old 04-16-2005, 04:42 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by SpectorV
new brake pads dont have gas fade issues, thus back in the old days when they did... slots and drilled holes did help, today they are for looks far more than performance, if you want true performance regular rotors are for you... you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track and rag on em they will get to hot and BAM ruined...
umm no, new brake pads still do have gas fade issues, why do you think the rotors have fins in the middle of the two sides. the holes and slots still do help. when you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track people get line lock so they wont warp or crack the rotors. and if you are just a drag racer, well adding better bigger brakes isnt great since you add weight. but gase fade still exist in most cars out there. i dont know how you drew the conclusion that new brakes dont have gase fade.
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Old 04-16-2005, 07:22 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
umm no, new brake pads still do have gas fade issues, why do you think the rotors have fins in the middle of the two sides. the holes and slots still do help. when you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track people get line lock so they wont warp or crack the rotors. and if you are just a drag racer, well adding better bigger brakes isnt great since you add weight. but gase fade still exist in most cars out there. i dont know how you drew the conclusion that new brakes dont have gase fade.
they have slots in the middle of each side to help keep them cool. A line lock doesnt help at an autox track, thats what I was talking about, you autox in a set of slotted and drilled rotors you are asking for trouble... that is if you push your car.
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Old 04-16-2005, 07:34 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
umm no, new brake pads still do have gas fade issues, why do you think the rotors have fins in the middle of the two sides. the holes and slots still do help. when you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track people get line lock so they wont warp or crack the rotors. and if you are just a drag racer, well adding better bigger brakes isnt great since you add weight. but gase fade still exist in most cars out there. i dont know how you drew the conclusion that new brakes dont have gase fade.
Actually the holes are really to lighten the rotor more than anything else. They might provide a small amount of cooling but for racing purpose it was for reduced weight.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:08 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by SpectorV
they have slots in the middle of each side to help keep them cool. A line lock doesnt help at an autox track, thats what I was talking about, you autox in a set of slotted and drilled rotors you are asking for trouble... that is if you push your car.
i was talking about line lock for drage racing. and the slots in the middle do help them keep them cool as well as help prevent gas fade.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:09 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Danger Dude
Actually the holes are really to lighten the rotor more than anything else. They might provide a small amount of cooling but for racing purpose it was for reduced weight.
the holes help alot with cooling, less heat means less fade.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:18 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
the holes help alot with cooling, less heat means less fade.
Actually when using a heat probe drilled rotors did not get significantly cooler. However you can cut about 10% of the weight of a rotor and reduce centrifical and gyroscopic effect anytime you lower the spinning weight of the wheel assembly.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:32 PM   #86
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Actually when using a heat probe drilled rotors did not get significantly cooler. However you can cut about 10% of the weight of a rotor and reduce centrifical and gyroscopic effect anytime you lower the spinning weight of the wheel assembly.
we did a lab on this (brakes class) about 4 months ago we had drilled rotors on one side of the fron of the car and regular on the other, then we did a road test . after that we used our thermometer equiped multi meters to measure the heat And the slotted rotor was significantly less. this was on a 99 suburban (donated to the school by GM). dont know if its different on stangs though.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:40 PM   #87
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Was the Rotor Vented or solid. Were the holes straight or angled. What type of rims or did it have hubcaps. In working with Volve racing we found vented rotors also did nothing and unless the holes were angle drilled aft to the oposite of rotation cooling was minimal.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:44 PM   #88
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yep the were angled he said if they were straight it would just get in the way of the other pad (the gas). the rotors were vented. and the it was a rim with just tiny holes, i believe it is the rim that comes on saffaris because they are just like my moms van rims.
im guessing the wieght of the vehicle played a big part in this?
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Old 04-16-2005, 09:27 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
yep the were angled he said if they were straight it would just get in the way of the other pad (the gas). the rotors were vented. and the it was a rim with just tiny holes, i believe it is the rim that comes on saffaris because they are just like my moms van rims.
im guessing the wieght of the vehicle played a big part in this?
Exactly Straight hole offer limited cooling and every Mustang rotor I have seen has straight holes. Also the word Vented Rotor is also a joke. The fact rotors that are vented are cheaper because it uses less metal. A solid Rotor the same width is heavier and more costly but it withstands warping better.
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Old 04-16-2005, 10:12 PM   #90
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Exactly Straight hole offer limited cooling and every Mustang rotor I have seen has straight holes. Also the word Vented Rotor is also a joke. The fact rotors that are vented are cheaper because it uses less metal. A solid Rotor the same width is heavier and more costly but it withstands warping better.
even the cobra brakes have straight holes? well thats gay.
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:18 PM   #91
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i soak them in wd40 this morning and i finally got them off but them when i was hooking the brake lines up one of the blocks didnt line up right so i had to shave a little of the caliper off...its cool now...if i got the 03 SS brake lines are they going to fit the same or should i get the 95 brake lines?
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:19 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by 232stang
umm no, new brake pads still do have gas fade issues, why do you think the rotors have fins in the middle of the two sides.

??

Interesting theory, wrong, but interesting. The fins are there to help cool the rotor and prevent warp or fade from over heated brakes. They will do nothing in regards to venting the outgassing of the pad material.

Now my favorite brake setup is to run the biggest rotors I can with organic pads. However, with today's undersized brakes you almost can't do this. On the Stang I suppose I could run some 13" rotors but then I'd have to upsize the rims and tires. On my 3800lbs former copcar I ran 12" rotors with organics and it stopped right now! I miss that car, shoulda never sold it.

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Holy crap he's right.
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:21 PM   #93
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??

Interesting theory, wrong, but interesting. The fins are there to help cool the rotor and prevent warp or fade from over heated brakes. They will do nothing in regards to venting the outgassing of the pad material.

Steve
they do when you have drilled rotors.
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:23 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
they do when you have drilled rotors.
drilled rotors = crutch for an undersized braking system.

slotted rotors = see drilled rotors.

slotted and drilled rotors = crutch for small weiner

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Holy crap he's right.
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:27 PM   #95
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drilled rotors = crutch for an undersized braking system.

slotted rotors = see drilled rotors.

slotted and drilled rotors = crutch for small weiner

Steve
oh ok that explains everything
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:35 PM   #96
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Ever look at the disc brakes on a jet fighter? no slots or holes. Why? Because they are a trick used to lighten the unsprung weight and that might be okay for a race car running 500 miles and then can get replaced. For something that has to have dead nuts reliable brakes it is useless. My cars have good, reliable and dependable brakes. 112,000 on the factory rotors. No warps, no wobbles, no problems. My ex copcar had over 150k miles on it's rotors and 80k of them on the pads.

Spend your money as you see fit. I'll spend mine as I see fit, but I'll spend less of it on my brakes and have them last longer too.

Now if you just gotta have that "look" then emotion is overruling logic.

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Holy crap he's right.
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:42 PM   #97
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Ever look at the disc brakes on a jet fighter?
nope
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Originally Posted by Ponycarman
Because they are a trick used to lighten the unsprung weight and that might be okay for a race car running 500 miles and then can get replaced.
they do noty have to be replaced after 500 miles, i know of many people that have had these past twenty thousand miles.


Quote:
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For something that has to have dead nuts reliable brakes it is useless. My cars have good, reliable and dependable brakes. 112,000 on the factory rotors. No warps, no wobbles, no problems. My ex copcar had over 150k miles on it's rotors and 80k of them on the pads.
if you are modding your car very heavily not much is gonna last 80k miles.
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:11 PM   #98
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Quote:
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if i got the 03 SS brake lines are they going to fit the same or should i get the 95 brake lines?
my brake lines now are really tight and im afraid they are going to come off when i turn the wheel.
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:30 PM   #99
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my brake lines now are really tight and im afraid they are going to come off when i turn the wheel.
do they not have ANY play?
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:42 PM   #100
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they will be stuff but they wont be stretched probably, just make sure the wheel/tires can go up and down with out causing any sort of bind on the lines. Mine are tight as wel, make sure the wheel aint hitting them when you turn it at full lock to the right and left for each side.
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:50 PM   #101
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I only got slotted and drilled rotors for looks...I dont autox and I dont plan to start right now so mine are fine, for true performance plain rotors are the only way to go Next go around I will go plain. Slotted and drilled are just to look good and they may help a little bit with weight, every 1lb is definatly alot more when its a rotating assembly like a wheel though.
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:52 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang

if you are modding your car very heavily not much is gonna last 80k miles.
Regardless of the HP your car is putting out if you get crappy mileage out of your pads you have one of three excuses

Soft pads, improper installation, or you drive like an idiot.

My 500 mile comment wasn't to suggest that slotted and drilled rotors would only last 500 miles but rather to say that if you only put 500 miles on them and change them out for new, like in NASCAR racing, then they have a use. In non-straightline racing unsprung weight is a major factor and slotted and drilled rotors help, at the expense of long term durability. If you only race 500 miles max and change them then who cares if they can last longer.

Much like the ricers that dude up their cars with shopping cart handles, stickers and fart cans I put the slotted and drilled crowd, for the most part, in the same category. It looks fast therefore I have to have it.

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Old 04-19-2005, 01:56 PM   #103
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Exactly !!! BINGO !!!!! DITTO!!! They was right on the money but that goes for body kits and all the mumbo jumbo people glue, weld, tape, stick, tie, paint on their cars in the name of looking fast and being different. MUHAHAHAHHAHAA
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Old 04-20-2005, 12:44 PM   #104
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I only got slotted and drilled rotors on the front of my GT cause they were the cheapest 13" Cobra rotors I could find, and they look ok, but mainly for cheap. LOL.
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:50 PM   #105
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my stock pads that came on my car (stock pbr calipers) had 40k on em when i sold em to a friend, he is still running the same pads and rotors they now have 51k on em... still got life left lol
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