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Old 02-24-2005, 08:08 AM   #1
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Possible Re-burn

As soon as I get some LT headers and o/r h-pipe on im going back to a dyno ang getting my a/f graphed. Then Mik at RPM is going to have my chip re-burned for free. Im also going to have it set for an EGR and PCV delete.
My real question is this: Can I have the chip burned for 3.73s even though I have my stock 2.73s right now? Cause Im planning on gettig an 8.8 w/3.73s late summer and dont wanna have to sent the chip back fo a 3rd burn.
I figure my speedo will be off badly, but thats no biggy, but wil there be any other probs?
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Old 02-24-2005, 12:21 PM   #2
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Since you have a 98 you dont get the chip reburned for your speedo what you get it burned for is to remove the speed limiter. So you already have that I assume with the chip you have now.

What you need is a speedcal from www.dallasmustang.com which will correct your speedo so it says you are going the correct speed. You do not need this until you get the gears though.
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:18 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent
Since you have a 98 you dont get the chip reburned for your speedo what you get it burned for is to remove the speed limiter. So you already have that I assume with the chip you have now.

What you need is a speedcal from www.dallasmustang.com which will correct your speedo so it says you are going the correct speed. You do not need this until you get the gears though.
Actually, the speedcals are for the 99-04 t5'd mustangs. The 94-98s just
change the physical speedometer gear just like 79-93 mustangs. The reason
the speedcal works is because the 99-04 t5's have a hall effect (magnetic
trigger) type speedometer so the signal is electric. That's why you can just
calibrate the speedo ina chip with 99+.

Correct the above if I'm wrong and there's been some change in the speedcal
specs that I'm unaware of.
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:22 PM   #4
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you're right.

I don't know if there's anyhting to adjust with getting longtubes/offroad pipes other than turning off the CEL's...I believe my car was tuned for a heads/cam car without longtubes and I threw them on afterwards and my a/f was still pretty smooth/dead on.
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stangin99
you're right.

I don't know if there's anyhting to adjust with getting longtubes/offroad pipes other than turning off the CEL's...I believe my car was tuned for a heads/cam car without longtubes and I threw them on afterwards and my a/f was still pretty smooth/dead on.
He's needing a better tune as his numbers just aren't right. But I need some a/f ratio numbers to get him better set up. He just happens to be doing the chip after the lt's/h.
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikael
Actually, the speedcals are for the 99-04 t5'd mustangs. The 94-98s just
change the physical speedometer gear just like 79-93 mustangs. The reason
the speedcal works is because the 99-04 t5's have a hall effect (magnetic
trigger) type speedometer so the signal is electric. That's why you can just
calibrate the speedo ina chip with 99+.

Correct the above if I'm wrong and there's been some change in the speedcal
specs that I'm unaware of.
I use a speedcal in my 96 mustang because I have 4.10s and the speedo gear for 4.10s does not come close to correcting my speedometer. Zim can back this up as well as the speedo was still a good 10mph off with the gear.

Just going by what I use.
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Old 02-24-2005, 08:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent
I use a speedcal in my 96 mustang because I have 4.10s and the speedo gear for 4.10s does not come close to correcting my speedometer. Zim can back this up as well as the speedo was still a good 10mph off with the gear.

Just going by what I use.
Cool. That's news to me.
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Old 02-25-2005, 09:01 AM   #8
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Thanks guys, so I should get a speedcal to correct my speedo? How hard is tis to install? How bad would my speedo be off if I didnt get anything to correct it?\

Hey Mik, think you will have an exhaust setup ready for me in about 2-3 weeks?

Edit: http://www.dallasmustang.com/index.m...=66&family=563

Something like that?

Edit 2: Okay I got to thinking, is it possible to put a GT 150mph speedo in my car? what would I do to calibrate it for that?>

150mph speedo
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikael
Actually, the speedcals are for the 99-04 t5'd mustangs. The 94-98s just
change the physical speedometer gear just like 79-93 mustangs. The reason
the speedcal works is because the 99-04 t5's have a hall effect (magnetic
trigger) type speedometer so the signal is electric. That's why you can just
calibrate the speedo ina chip with 99+.

Correct the above if I'm wrong and there's been some change in the speedcal
specs that I'm unaware of.

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Old 02-25-2005, 01:19 PM   #10
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alright to clear this up i have a 98 and you do need a speedo gear and the speedcal that was straight from dallasmustangs
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Old 02-25-2005, 02:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawks05
alright to clear this up i have a 98 and you do need a speedo gear and the speedcal that was straight from dallasmustangs
Arg so you need both then? Which will cost me over $100 right? What about the 150mph speedo?
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Old 02-25-2005, 06:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
Arg so you need both then? Which will cost me over $100 right? What about the 150mph speedo?
To calibrate your speedo for a 150mph speedometer, you need to pull the tailshaft off the tranny and and change out the speedo DRIVE gear. The little gear you change when you change gears is call the speedo DRIVEN gear.
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Old 02-26-2005, 08:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
As soon as I get some LT headers and o/r h-pipe on im going back to a dyno ang getting my a/f graphed. Then Mik at RPM is going to have my chip re-burned for free. Im also going to have it set for an EGR and PCV delete.
Per our communications on the cats/tuning issues, you should have
the A/F graphs analyzed to see if it is worth your time to send the
chip back in for a reburn. It likely could be but post the A/F here
and Mik and some others can give opinions. Ask them if the wideband
is very old or anything too, they tend to read lean when they get old
but are actually richer.

IMO the LT's and cat removal should make a big splash,
but you should be over 200 RWHP with the hdwe. involved.
Jose hit 187 RWHP with the same basic stuff except no BV heads
and no CAI, stock Inj's and he had cats and stock headers.
He did not optimize the NA combo cuz the SC was coming rather
quickly afterwards. Some have hit well over 200 RWHP (claimed)
with what you have. I have not seen dynos tho.
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Old 02-26-2005, 08:38 AM   #14
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PS: I think many or most of your problems were caused
by running it with the larger inj's before the chip arrived.
19# inj's on a 14# curved MAF would dump at least 40%
more fuel than is needed (in open loop mode) even with
stock heads/cam. Closed loop operation would cut it back
but I'm not sure how much. Did you ever get black smoke
out of the tailpipes
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Old 02-27-2005, 02:51 PM   #15
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Yeah I definitely should not have run it before the chip. I dont remember much black smoke, just alot of greyish smoke.
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Old 02-27-2005, 08:11 PM   #16
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I would like to know, who burnt your chip for you? If it's who I think, that could be the main factor of your problem.
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Old 02-28-2005, 08:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Stallion
I would like to know, who burnt your chip for you? If it's who I think, that could be the main factor of your problem.
Well all I know is that I bought it from RPM-mustangs.com
Me and RGR have talked about this... and well, you will have to talk to him if you wanna know more.
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Old 02-28-2005, 09:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
Well all I know is that I bought it from RPM-mustangs.com
Me and RGR have talked about this... and well, you will have to talk to him if you wanna know more.

IMO we can't make any conclusions about chips.
I do not know who does Mik's tuning, and at this
point it does not matter, we got it pretty much
narrowed down to the fact that he ran it with
19# injectors before he had the chip, and it probably
loaded up the cats pretty quick and they are now done.
Besides, he's getting a free re-burn if needed (may not be)
and some tune shops give a "drive-it-to-the-dyno" tune
(usually safely rich) then adjust after an A/F run.
Not sure if this is even close to what happened here,
but we know for sure that it was driven befoe the chip,
and it is very likely that caused the problems.

Grey smoke, I guess that could be the cats "trying"
to deal with the excessive fuel, unsuccessfully.
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