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Old 03-04-2005, 07:18 PM   #1
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Getting Mac LT's and O/R H

I am about to purchase whats in the title, and right now I have a custom setup with spintechs and no crossover (cut off right behind y-pipe). It was done by a local exhaust shop. Now Im about to free up some horsepower by getting rid of my stupid cats that are clogged and getting some Lts while Im at it. Ohh and, im doing this installation (as I have an arc welder, not the best... but will do) So how would I connect my new h-pipe to the spintech mufflers? I know the H-pipe has the bolt connection which normally bolts to the MAC cat-backs, but anyays, Im sure you get the idea... any suggestions?
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:25 PM   #2
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Post pics, I've done exhaust work (it's pretty easy)
but the Muffs should bolt up once the H is on there.

You still have the stock "Y" in there now?
It could be part of the problem, any system
that keeps the stock "Y" is not really duals,
cuz everything has to flow thru the small 2"
single opening at the "Y". You ARE well
past the point that it becomes restricitve.

Jose was at ~190 RWHP and picked up 2 with
true duals. Fact.

You should be past 200 RWHP with everything working right.
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGR
Post pics, I've done exhaust work (it's pretty easy)
but the Muffs should bolt up once the H is on there.

You still have the stock "Y" in there now?
It could be part of the problem, any system
that keeps the stock "Y" is not really duals,
cuz everything has to flow thru the small 2"
single opening at the "Y". You ARE well
past the point that it becomes restricitve.

Jose was at ~190 RWHP and picked up 2 with
true duals. Fact.

You should be past 200 RWHP with everything working right.
I no, I dont still have the Y crossover, as I have no crossover at all... sorry for the confusion
I will take some pis but I dont have the exaust yet... but I know from looking at pics and looking under my car that its going to be an enteresting installation. The only way I know how to put it is my current setup is welded and has no bolt on connections, and the h-pipe Im getting does. So I wanna know how I would go about that, also, my muffler have the 2.25 inlet/outlets and the h-pipe is 2.5. So I guess I would just ignore the bolt on connection on the H-pipe, cut the current pipe off where previously welded and try to weld the h-pipe on like that?
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

RDmotorsport

New dyno
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:54 PM   #4
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Well what I did was buy some GT-take offs and then I bolted up my O/R h-pipe my self and then I bolted on the GT take offs and suspended the rear side and had a shop weld the tail pipes on. that way I have a "bolt on" exhaust.
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DAMN Those are some old *** numbers!!! I need updated ones!!
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:56 PM   #5
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How much did you or are you paying for you exhaust parts. I have them at my site for $438 shipped
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DAMN Those are some old *** numbers!!! I need updated ones!!
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Old 03-04-2005, 10:01 PM   #6
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Here's my problem my grandpa doesnt want me to have the cats taken off my car so what should i do? Go with chrome short tube header or stay with the stock headers. Just wondering
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Old 03-04-2005, 10:05 PM   #7
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Stay with stock headers unless you plan on going inside the engine and doing a head/cam/intake swap or adding a power adder
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Old 03-04-2005, 11:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolstang
Here's my problem my grandpa doesnt want me to have the cats taken off my car so what should i do? Go with chrome short tube header or stay with the stock headers. Just wondering
Or you could go with some hi-flo cats. You won't be taking them off, just replacing them with something more efficient hp wise.
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DAMN Those are some old *** numbers!!! I need updated ones!!
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Old 03-05-2005, 07:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
I no, I dont still have the Y crossover, as I have no crossover at all... sorry for the confusion
I implied the wrong thing, my bad!

I will take some pis but I dont have the exaust yet... but I know from looking at pics and looking under my car that its going to be an enteresting installation. The only way I know how to put it is my current setup is welded and has no bolt on connections, and the h-pipe Im getting does. So I wanna know how I would go about that, also, my muffler have the 2.25 inlet/outlets and the h-pipe is 2.5. So I guess I would just ignore the bolt on connection on the H-pipe, cut the current pipe off where previously welded and try to weld the h-pipe on like that?

You really need a 2.25" H-Pipe or even better, 2.5" mufflers.
Bad situation going with a bigger mid pipe then smaller again.
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Old 03-05-2005, 07:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent
Stay with stock headers unless you plan on going inside the engine and doing a head/cam/intake swap or adding a power adder
What he said, unless it is a 99^ then use 94-98 shorties.
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Old 03-05-2005, 08:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGR
You really need a 2.25" H-Pipe or even better, 2.5" mufflers.
Bad situation going with a bigger mid pipe then smaller again.
Danget! So it would be better if I went with a whole new cat-back system? I never can get outta anything for realitively cheap!

So if I went with another cat-back, what would you fellows recommend? I would guess MAC sice that would just bolt right up with the H-pipe.

Ohh and, if I do get a WHOLE new exhaust, them my current setup will be put up for sale. So if any one wants some stock headers down to cats, then custom mid pipes (2.25) that are welded so some awesome spintech prostreets (about, 14,000 miles) and come out with 3 inch slanted chrome tips, let me know... Ill let it go for a reasonable price.
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

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New dyno
193.8rwhp/238.9 rwtq
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Old 03-05-2005, 08:48 AM   #12
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You could temporarily get reducers, but that is not ideal.

Do you have the "H" yet?
Does it come in 2.25"???
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Old 03-05-2005, 08:52 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGR
You could temporarily get reducers, but that is not ideal.

Do you have the "H" yet?
Does it come in 2.25"???
no I dont have the H yet, but I believe it only comes in 2.5 (which is kinda what I want anyways)

Take a look at these diffrerent MAC cat-back systems and let me know which would be best for my setup, I dont think I need to get the one for 3.8 as it appears to come with some sorta y-pipe adapter.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/MAC-ex...Z6000QQsaspiZ2
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

RDmotorsport

New dyno
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Old 03-05-2005, 09:14 AM   #14
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You could the SpinTech flanges cut off and made larger...

Knowing how they are made, it is possible.
You could also leave the tailpipes as-is but add dumps
out the back of the Spins removable ones beside
the tailpipes. Open them at the strip!
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Old 03-05-2005, 09:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGR
You could the SpinTech flanges cut off and made larger...

Knowing how they are made, it is possible.
You could also leave the tailpipes as-is but add dumps
out the back of the Spins
Why would it be so bad to go from 2.5 to 2.25 at the mufflers? Its not even that much of a difference. Surely it woulnt hinder me all that much...
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

RDmotorsport

New dyno
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Old 03-05-2005, 09:29 AM   #16
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It won't kill you but the bigger pipes reduce velocity, then it has to
speed back up at the mufflers. Best to be small to large or same
all the way thru. It is never advisable to taper down in exhaust sizing.
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Old 03-05-2005, 09:31 AM   #17
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If yo u keep the 2.5 H and 2.25 muffs, use good reducers, that will minimize turbulance.
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Old 03-05-2005, 01:14 PM   #18
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Arg, well I might just go ahead and get the MAC cat-back so I dont have to do much (if any) welding at all, mainly just because I dont wanna do alot of welding with my arc welder, definately not the best welder for the application.
So what I might do is get the MAC cat-back, but what I wanna know is... which should I look in to the one fore 94-98 3.8 or the one for 96-98 4.6 or what?
Also, what all will I need as far as O2 extentions and MIL elminatiors go? Although I dont think my CEL works anyways so it doesnt really make any difference unless the MIL will add horsepower. Besides I think Mik said he could turn off the CEL when I get the re-burn which hopefully will be some time in april-may. Will I need the O2 extentions with the long tubes though?
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

RDmotorsport

New dyno
193.8rwhp/238.9 rwtq
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Old 03-05-2005, 02:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
Arg, well I might just go ahead and get the MAC cat-back so I dont have to do much (if any) welding at all, mainly just because I dont wanna do alot of welding with my arc welder, definately not the best welder for the application.
So what I might do is get the MAC cat-back, but what I wanna know is... which should I look in to the one fore 94-98 3.8 or the one for 96-98 4.6 or what?
Also, what all will I need as far as O2 extentions and MIL elminatiors go? Although I dont think my CEL works anyways so it doesnt really make any difference unless the MIL will add horsepower. Besides I think Mik said he could turn off the CEL when I get the re-burn which hopefully will be some time in april-may. Will I need the O2 extentions with the long tubes though?

The retailer should have all those answers, I would think the catback should be
a 2.5" for your year, in a V6 if it is offered or the V8 if it is not.
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Old 03-05-2005, 03:23 PM   #20
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So the 4.6 cat-back should work fine right? I think the 3.8 setup comes with a Y adapter thing for stock y pipe, which I will have like a GT H-pipe so I would need the GT cat-back I guess... ohh well Ill talk to the retailer like you said... thanks
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Mods: BV heads, cut and weld upper, fully ported lower, 216/225 cam, 1.73 RR's, 60mm TB, 19# injectors, new timing set, 25% UDP, CAI, SCT chip, PCV delete, EGR delete, MAC LT headers, O/R H-pipe, durablack cat-back...

www.rpm-mustangs.com

RDmotorsport

New dyno
193.8rwhp/238.9 rwtq
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Old 03-05-2005, 05:14 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98GreenStallion
So the 4.6 cat-back should work fine right? I think the 3.8 setup comes with a Y adapter thing for stock y pipe, which I will have like a GT H-pipe so I would need the GT cat-back I guess... ohh well Ill talk to the retailer like you said... thanks

Well if you get your exhaust from MAC, then you can get it for you years and engine. If you go with a different name brand, then you're gonna need to get a cat back from a 96-98 4.6 GT or Cobra. It doesn't matter because the Cobra didn't go IRS till after 98 so the exhaust will still be the same. I have take offs from a Cobra on my car. MAC though sells a completly bolt on cat back kit if you're interested.
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