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Old 03-09-2005, 02:33 PM   #1
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Longtube Headers... now exhaust ?'s

alright got the 94 v6 last monday, got the first speeding ticket that thursday. pulleys are on, and it had the K and N air filter when i bought it. Longtube headers are on their way then im stuck with what im going to do. True dual exhaust, h pipe or x pipe. After i decide this week it will get done next week and then CAI, throttle body spacer and intake spacer. But what setup do you think would be best. I personally am leaning towards true dual.
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:36 PM   #2
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Ha..first off, slow down a little. Second off, I have true duals run on my 02, and there's an argument as to whether the H/X pipe makes any difference. It makes a slight difference as far as sound goes, but I'm happy with my duals.
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:55 PM   #3
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yea a lot of what i have heard is just a sound difference, but o well. and since its my first post may as well tell the etertaining story. let a friends house a little upset a little before 2 in the morning, peeled out, ran two stop signs chirped 2nd gear was doin between 80 and 85 in a posted 45, then 40 then 35, got pulled over by 5 cop cars and sat for two hours, seems i crossed over a jurisdiction line in there too so they had to sort it out, but got a citation for 105 bucks and that was it.

ok so still going true dual right now... any other voices
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:56 PM   #4
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LTs are good but wont show much of a gain on a stock or near stock v6... if you already have it and dont want to send em back then... you need a LT H pipe, i recommend a cated version due to the horrid sound a v6 makes with no cats ( mac makes em but they are expensive with cats )

then you can run any gt cat back you wish, it will bolt right up.
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:58 PM   #5
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O, and welcome BTW...and please slow down some so you can still be a member here instead of dead
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Old 03-16-2005, 12:02 PM   #6
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ok none of the local exhaust shops will touch headers so i am having a friend do it.. but every custom exhaust place says that they would put an H pipe in... what do you think. just go with the H???
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Old 03-16-2005, 04:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA6shooter
ok none of the local exhaust shops will touch headers so i am having a friend do it.. but every custom exhaust place says that they would put an H pipe in... what do you think. just go with the H???

An "H" is cheaper and easier apparently. I'd go ahead and get one
but actually knowing what your total future plan is would help...

See this post, I wrote it years ago and it is a good starter guide for
mods to do and in an orderly fashion...

V6 Modification guide for beginners...

Then get back with us with your NEW 20 Questions
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Old 03-17-2005, 03:05 AM   #8
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well the underdrive pulleys are on and the throttle body spacer and im debating if i want to spend the money for the water pump pulley, then the headers and exhaust and cold air intake go on. after that its time for sct chip and t-lok, then debating if i want to go with the 73mm maf and upgraded injectors or if i want to go with ported intake and head and get a cam. also is there any direct replacement for power steering to manual steering... my power steering rack is leaking and fails inspection which is due in july but i know on my old mazda i could just swap out and lost ac and power steering and gained a lil bit of power and saved some weight, but i have only seen AC removal stuff around for stangs. and since im rambling on and its my own post to begin with, whats the difference in the 56mm throttle body for the v6ers and the 50mm one that i see at rpm-mustangs???
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Old 03-17-2005, 10:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA6shooter
1. well the underdrive pulleys are on and the throttle body spacer and im debating if i want to spend the money for the water pump pulley,
TB spacers are worthless, intake spacers seem to help a bit
on unported upper intakes, it would be less on ported intakes.
UDP's are always good but I'd wait on the WP Pulley. You won't
notice it doing anything and will be disappointed probably. I had a
full set on my GT and I went back to stock with the ALT. Pulley
because of charging problems, but the newer alternators are better
now so you should be fine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by PA6shooter
2. then the headers and exhaust and cold air intake go on.
Kewl, did you decide on a size for after the headers?
For your listed mods below, it looks like 2.25" with street porting and
camming. It would support a street setup up to 300 BHP easily. That
is about 240-260 RWHP.


Quote:
Originally Posted by PA6shooter
3. after that its time for sct chip and t-lok, then debating if i want to go with the 73mm maf and upgraded injectors or if i want to go with ported intake and head and get a cam.
Chip is best done after the porting and cam. The stock MAF is good for
the power levels listed in my above reply, and is easier for the SCT folks
to tune with. If you ever want or need a bigger MAF get an 80mm Lightning
or other Ford MAF, they are dirt cheap and easier for the tuner to setup.
The only "stand alone" mod you need in this #3 is the T-Lok, the rest of
this #3 grouping is best done like this, get the porting and cam and tune
all at once, that is why we call it an H/C/I swap, and then you absolutely
need the tune. The only reason to get a chip before then is for gears.


Quote:
Originally Posted by PA6shooter
4. also is there any direct replacement for power steering to manual steering... my power steering rack is leaking and fails inspection which is due in july but i know on my old mazda i could just swap out and lost ac and power steering and gained a lil bit of power and saved some weight, but i have only seen AC removal stuff around for stangs.
Flaming River makes a manual rack for the Mustangs. Same one as the V8's
use. You got big balls man, I admire that! I had a 72 Maverick Grabber and
I deleted the PS box, never regretted it! The only mild inconvenience was
parking, and I did not mind at all. It jsut reminded me that I was gaining
power and losing weight when I chucked the PS box I also kept
the stock steering rack, the ratio was lower which makes it harder than a
true manual rack which gives you better (higher) ratios to work with.
I'd be totally hardcore and delete the AC too, my Mav was w/o AC


Quote:
Originally Posted by PA6shooter
5. and since im rambling on and its my own post to begin with, whats the difference in the 56mm throttle body for the v6ers and the 50mm one that i see at rpm-mustangs???
What's the difference? About 6mm!
Actually, the BBk flows alot more but is more $$$. We have a How-To
on the 1/2 shaft TB around here somewhere, or I do on my computer
but it is in rough form, I pioneered the 1/2 shafting concept in 1998
and freely share it with people who have the ability to do it, my buddy
Mik just offers that for the folks who do not feel comfortable with hacking
on a good TB, thinking they might hurt it.

I have a very nice 56mm BBK for sale, it is about $100 off retail and
it is in perfect shape. $150 shipped and you need the crossover tube
opened up to work with it, but it is a great mod for even an otherwise
unported upper intake. That TB and port matching fixes the most glaring
problem with the single port intake that it has, everything else about the
intake is quite generous, the runners are bigger than a 5.0 Mustang's runners
by about 50% so it breathes pretty well after you upgrade the TB, and I
know what I am talking about, I did the EFI R&D on the single port before
any of the other V6 tuners were even in existance. That is why I help
DIY'ers that just refuse to pay someone else to port their stuff, so I might
as well help them get good porting info and help them do it right.
One guy I helped with his upper intake (I did the lower, heads and cam)
made a Stage 3 cut-n-weld upper, and smoked his buddy who bought a
complete kit form another shop, they were identical in "specs" but my
accomplice who used my directions made +9 RWHP and +14 RWTQ
with a smaller cam and our combined porting efforts!

Now I'm rambling so I'll get outta here! :burnout:
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Old 03-17-2005, 11:01 AM   #10
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Well I would not worry about the H or X pipe until you do P&P heads, Cam and intakes. Why would you need a waterpump pulley???. Dont bother with the MAF unless you are going the supercharged route. The stock one is more than efficient for normal aspiration. Tuning comes after you install gears or after gears, heads, cam and intakes.
Throttle body spacers are useless. Intake spacers are good heat barriers and keep the upper intake cooler. If you are making a track car I see the desire to make it lighter but to remove the A/C and P/S on a street car is rather unnecessary.

By the way how old are you????
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Old 03-17-2005, 11:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger Dude
Well I would not worry about the H or X pipe until you do P&P heads, Cam and intakes...
The only thing here is that it will be cheaper to do it when the rest of it goes
on... Actually either way (before or after porting) it may make little difference
but the rationale is that it will equalize the 2 sides of the motor and smooth
out the exhaust just a little bit more. I am going to do one for sure when I
build my personal V6 screamer, and then I will have a tester for some V6-specific
crossover designs I wan to test for sound quality. HP wise it is probably
not doing much if anything even with huge engine mods, but I'd still do it
just for the smoother overall flow and bank balancing. Most of the people
who have done it both ways like the crossover more than not having one.
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