Installing Brake Pads and Rotors - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-18-2005, 09:42 PM   #1
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Installing Brake Pads and Rotors

Anybody have a writeup on how to install brake pads and rotors...stock that is, not Cobra?
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:57 PM   #2
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why search when i can do it for you .
http://mwstangs.com/ourpics/fcar/brakepad1.htm
i would suggest that when you are compressing the piston to open the bleeder screw that way you dont flip any cup seals and you dont have to take out any fluid from the container, but make sure to have some sort of pan so you wont make a mess. and since it will throw out fluid make sure to top it off if the fluid is getting low during the proccess. if you let the fluid get too low it will suck in air and you will have to bleed the brakes.. and the rear piston while require a tool that has you rotate it, just go to autozone and they will get you the tool and its not expensive.
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:41 AM   #3
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Stock or Cobra are done exactly the same. You need a compression tool for the front like a C clamp. I have a nice set of Vise Grip C Clamps. For the back you need a tool to spin the piston in DO NOT COMPRESS THE PISTON ON THE BACK YOU WILL DESTROY IT!!!!The tool is cheap and can be found at any auto parts place!!
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Old 05-19-2005, 12:55 PM   #4
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its pretty darn easy, there are two 15mm bolts behind the caliper, there are 4 bolts the two inner most that are 15mm are the ones you remove. You will need a breaker bar cuz those suckers are on there... turning the wheel to get access to the bolts works good.

once off slide the caliper off pop the new pads in and then take a rubber mallet and tap the rotor off if its stuck on. If the rotors have never been removed there will be a little round thing around one or two of the lug nuts holding the rotor on. Just slide the old one off and the new one on then put the brakes back into place with the new pads and tq the caliper bolts to 85-95 ftlbs (MUST do that)
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Old 05-19-2005, 01:08 PM   #5
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thanks guys...hopefully its a nice weekend so i can work outside on my car
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Old 05-21-2005, 03:04 PM   #6
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the hardest part is getting the caliper bolts off, keep a spare 15mm socket or get a strong one thats made for high tq. I have broke more than one on those things.
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by SpectorV
the hardest part is getting the caliper bolts off, keep a spare 15mm socket or get a strong one thats made for high tq. I have broke more than one on those things.
hahaha i broke one today on my calipers.
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:25 PM   #8
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hahaha i broke one today on my calipers.
stupid craftsman.
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Old 05-21-2005, 06:25 PM   #9
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yea, same here, took her back to sears and got another. Those sockets arnt made for that kind of tq load.
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Old 05-21-2005, 06:35 PM   #10
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yea, same here, took her back to sears and got another. Those sockets arnt made for that kind of tq load.
maybe i should not have been using it with air tools.
haha my air ratchet broke it, it should have handled it if it was my hand. hell my 21 mm and 24 mm socket both handled the 148 ft lbs i put on the 2 lower strut nuts.
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Old 05-21-2005, 06:36 PM   #11
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you can buy a set of impact sockets that will solve the problem...and I dont think the knuckle strut bolts take 150ftlbs... do they?
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Old 05-21-2005, 06:39 PM   #12
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you can buy a set of impact sockets that will solve the problem...and I dont think the knuckle strut bolts take 150ftlbs... do they?
according to Motor Alldata yes they do. and this is a very trustworthy source.
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Old 05-21-2005, 06:43 PM   #13
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damn didnt know that lol
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Old 05-21-2005, 07:04 PM   #14
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damn didnt know that lol
im currently doing the shock and strut write up and i will include all torque specs that i got from that program.
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