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Old 07-22-2005, 09:02 PM   #1
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3.73 gears and i what i need

Im going to buy 3.73 gears with diff and im listing the parts im buying if im missing anything else please list it for me

List
*Ford Racing 3.73 gear
*Ford Racing Limited Slip Diff.
*Rear End Master Bearing kit
*Royal Purple Gear Lube(Dont know how many quarts or what number of lube)
*Ford Racing Friction Modifier
*Manual 5-spd Speedometer Gear(Dont know which one or if i have to buy a driver gear for 100% accuracy
*Notched Carrier Cross Pin and Bolt

If im missing something please list it or if you know my questions in the (...)
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:57 PM   #2
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What year and model stang do you have?
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:59 PM   #3
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Its a 1997 Mustang v6 5spd with a 7.5 axle
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Old 07-23-2005, 02:15 AM   #4
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*Notched Carrier Cross Pin and Bolt

I was going to say that but nm.
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Old 07-23-2005, 09:00 AM   #5
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the new diff will come with a carrier pin I do belive, either way I didnt need a newone. The new carrier is identical to the old one minus the clutches.

Better safe than sorry so go ahead and get it... it cant be much. Just buy new parts and check with www.gefracing.com for prices (call em for oem parts which is what you need, unless ford racing is cheaper)

The ONLY thing it seems you are missing is a good quality install... which is the most important. With out it all tha stuff doesnt matter lol... oh and a warrenty IN WRITING also is needed.
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Old 07-23-2005, 09:33 AM   #6
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Arent they different for different gear ratios. If he is going to put 3.73's in a 97 that means he has 2.73 stock. Dont cross pins change after you hit I think 3.53 and you need notched ones?
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Old 07-23-2005, 09:37 AM   #7
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A new 7.5 t-lok will have the corect Carrier Cross Pin and Bolt.
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Old 07-23-2005, 10:53 AM   #8
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:chin: yea, just buy new parts and you should be good.
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Old 07-23-2005, 11:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chamillionaire
Im going to buy 3.73 gears with diff and im listing the parts im buying if im missing anything else please list it for me

List
*Ford Racing 3.73 gear
*Ford Racing Limited Slip Diff.
*Rear End Master Bearing kit
*Royal Purple Gear Lube(Dont know how many quarts or what number of lube)
*Ford Racing Friction Modifier
*Manual 5-spd Speedometer Gear(Dont know which one or if i have to buy a driver gear for 100% accuracy
*Notched Carrier Cross Pin and Bolt

If im missing something please list it or if you know my questions in the (...)

You dont need the notched cross pin it comes with the T lok. No on the gear drive but you will need a 23 toothed white speedo gear. You can pick up friction modifier at any local autozone or Advanced Auto for half the price Ford wants for it.
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Old 07-23-2005, 01:51 PM   #10
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I don't think you need any friction modifier with the Royal Purple Gear oil...

I could be wrong tho
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Old 07-23-2005, 01:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJStang86
I don't think you need any friction modifier with the Royal Purple Gear oil...

I could be wrong tho
Yes you do!! The friction modifier is to help the cluthes wear or bed in correctly. It is not for the gears themselves
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Old 07-23-2005, 06:20 PM   #12
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very thorough. go purple royal!
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Old 07-23-2005, 06:52 PM   #13
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royal purple you mean?

No, that stuff does kick *** when I finish my car I am going full purple treatment!
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Old 07-23-2005, 07:58 PM   #14
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Royal Purple is good I will not deny that but the truth be told all synthetic is good, I was one of the lead Analyst in a 2 year study and found almost no difference in the wear with cars using any of the synthetic oils but we found vast differences between the best standard oil and the cheapest synthetic. So saying that when you read on the Royal Purplr website or amgazine article * Increase Horse Power * Reduce Engine Wear * Save Energy * Extend Oil Drain Intervals!!!! All synthetic do. Royal purple does a good job of making believe their synthetic oil in MAGIC!! HAHHAHAHAHAHA but truth be told Mobile1, Castrol and other major brands do just as well.

But if you can get Royal Purple for a deal and get if as cheap as Mobil 1 or Castrol then jump on it otherwise you will be dumping $27 more every oil change down the drain instead of $10 to $12.
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Old 07-23-2005, 08:36 PM   #15
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I have been told that with new bearings not to use a full synthetic right away.

Run on regular gear oil for a couple of hundred miles then change over.
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Old 07-23-2005, 08:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slvr2000stang
I have been told that with new bearings not to use a full synthetic right away.

Run on regular gear oil for a couple of hundred miles then change over.
I believe that is a myth. I thing that was something started in the 80's when Synthetic oil was just starting out and some of the seals were thought to need regular oil to set properly. That is just like the myth in not using synthetic in older vehicles or they will start leaking. On a molecular level having synthetic oil in a new engine will bed in to the bearing surfaces providing better protection that dino oil which goes thru Viscosity break down under normal use and extreme breakdown under high temp use.

The reason I say this is when you build a engine the assembly lube you use is a Synthetic Moly lube. In the old days we used motor honey when building but that was then this is now. If it was really a problem the factories would put warnings on the owners manual and in the engine bay
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Old 07-23-2005, 09:42 PM   #17
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how many quarts of royal purple if im right its like about 2 or 2.5 and how do i add the friction modifier do i mix it with the royal purple lube and what number of lube do i need
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Old 07-23-2005, 10:06 PM   #18
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I was told that by my last installer that does it for a reputable performance shop.

Just making mention of it.
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Old 07-24-2005, 01:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger Dude
I believe that is a myth. I thing that was something started in the 80's when Synthetic oil was just starting out and some of the seals were thought to need regular oil to set properly. That is just like the myth in not using synthetic in older vehicles or they will start leaking. On a molecular level having synthetic oil in a new engine will bed in to the bearing surfaces providing better protection that dino oil which goes thru Viscosity break down under normal use and extreme breakdown under high temp use.

The reason I say this is when you build a engine the assembly lube you use is a Synthetic Moly lube. In the old days we used motor honey when building but that was then this is now. If it was really a problem the factories would put warnings on the owners manual and in the engine bay
i have to disagree about some of the myths

i used Mobil 1 synthetic in my old dodge, and it leaked from everywehre possible, and it cause my turbo to smoke. what happens is, the synthetic has some harsher detergents, and it ends up breaking down the sludge in older engines, sludge that sometimes/many times will kinda seal up leaks and keep it from leaking

and using synthetic in a fresh engine generally is a no-no, not because of the bearings, but because of the rings. the cylinder walls are crosshatched to wear the rings down to get them properly seated to the cylinder walls, with synthetic oil, the rings dont seat because the synthetic oil sticks to everything, it doesnt just run off of the surface, so it lubricates the walls so well that the rings cant wear down. the bearings have no problems, because they dont really break in, they do to an extent, but its not as imparitive that they break in in the way the rings need to

with gears, you really dont want them to wear, the teeth are machined to mesh together beautifully, and by them wearing, that mesh would be hurt

go synthetic, and use a friction modifier, and be set, id prsonally use Mobile 1
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:04 AM   #20
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He was referring to new bearings being installed in the rear end.

Like I said I was just bringing it up. :dunno:
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chamillionaire
how many quarts of royal purple if im right its like about 2 or 2.5 and how do i add the friction modifier do i mix it with the royal purple lube and what number of lube do i need

Not quite 2 guarts of 80w-90 lube and 4 oz of friction modifier. Put the friction modifier in first then the lube. You wont use every bit of the second bottle
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:37 AM   #22
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3.25 pints to be exact.
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:40 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slvr2000stang
I was told that by my last installer that does it for a reputable performance shop.

Just making mention of it.

There are quite a few mechanics that believe that. But the fact is Mechanics dont usually have all the facts and many mechanics are comfortable using what they have always used. They are less resistant to change.Like I was saying Where I work we did a 2 year study on synthetics vs regular just so we could have real evidence to measure with.
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:48 AM   #24
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And the reults were that synthetic right away is ok?

I don't recall what his reasoning behind it was. I will have to ask next time I'm up there.

Can you divulge any of the details?
This is kinda interesting.
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:53 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slvr2000stang
And the reults were that synthetic right away is ok?

I don't recall what his reasoning behind it was. I will have to ask next time I'm up there.

Can you divulge any of the details?
This is kinda interesting.
I have in past posts. I cannot post any of the real data because it is proprietory information. I have tried to get it submitted to SAE or ASQ to be published but I have had little luck. The company did not seem interested
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:57 AM   #26
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Ok I will search.
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Old 07-24-2005, 11:39 AM   #27
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Here you go Kirk

The Bottom line on synthetic oil is. They are all better then dino oil period!!!

I did research on 130 vehicles with regular and synthetic oil and after checking oil using soap sampling and cutting filters open and even removing main bearing and analysing the bearing surfaces. Synthetic oil is the only way to go.

Synthetic oil does not break down under high heat conditions Regular oil burns, turns black and loses viscosity

Synthetic protects the bearing surfaces from etching and gauling way better than regular oil

Synthetic may cost more up front but will be cheaper in the long run because it can go 2 1/2 times longer between changes than regular oil.

Synthetic is hands down better and in the test we conducted we found very little difference between High Dollar Synthetic oil and on sale brands. So if you use Royal Purple or Havoline Synthetic you are getting protection well about ordinary oil.

Also stay with the name brand oil filters but dont be suckered into spending big money on K&N oil filters when the much cheaper Motorcraft filters are just as good

AND THIS ONE!!!

Oil reasearch was my job for 3 years where I ran test on oil and fuel which to me on a 2 year study on oil types and filters for use in company vehicles. Where I work has some 130 company vehicles and equipment requiring scheduled maintenance. We tested every major oil and filter. I personally ran 3 test. One Soap testing where we burned samples of oil to see what metals were in the oil to see what might be breaking down in the engine. The next was a Oil vacuum test to see what impurities and chemicals were in the oil. The third was to cut the filter in half to see what the fliter elements collected and what passed thru. What was the final analysis

1. Every major Synthetic beat reqular oil hands down
2. There were very little difference in the major brand synthetic oil performances when changed every 7000 miles
3. There was a vast difference in regular oils performance when waiting to change every 4500 miles.
4. When changed at scheduled periods 4500 regular 7000 synthetic oil every major brand filter we tested met industry standard and none came apart. We had some defects which were discarded and replace. The were slight difference but nothing that clearly made one outshine the other and cost was not a determining factor. I will say when doing these test we used the standard filter for each type of car that was specified by the filter makers. No extra guard, superduty, gold, extra capacity filter was used.

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Old 07-25-2005, 12:00 AM   #28
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so should i use synthetic lube right away
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:03 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chamillionaire
so should i use synthetic lube right away
yes !!!!!
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:11 AM   #30
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is 75w90 ok?
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:27 AM   #31
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http://www.v6mustangstuff.com/drivetrain2.htm

is this the right speedo gear you just need to scroll down
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:35 AM   #32
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yeah i think thats the one Danger dude said to get
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:41 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chamillionaire
http://www.v6mustangstuff.com/drivetrain2.htm

is this the right speedo gear you just need to scroll down
werd
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Old 07-25-2005, 11:51 AM   #34
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man i didn't realize mid 90's and new edge mustangs were so different.

1-piston rotors, 2.73 gears, damn. i thought we had it bad (comparo to GT's)
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:06 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chamillionaire
is 75w90 ok?
No I would use 80w-90 as specified in the Ford service manual
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