7.5 vs. 8.8 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 03-27-2006, 05:14 PM   #1
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7.5 vs. 8.8

How much can a 7.5 take before it takes a crap?

I'm disputing whether to go with gears and a t-loc, or get an 8.8 with gears.

I don't plan on doing anything more than maybe a 75 shot.
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Old 03-27-2006, 05:16 PM   #2
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

From what I can tell, noone has a number at which they can prove the 7.5 is done. They are tempermental, some break with stock power, some handle 300 with launches before breaking. I guess just look around, if you can find a 8.8 for a decent price with the gears you want already installed...go for it.
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Old 03-27-2006, 05:31 PM   #3
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

If you plan on heading out to the track fairly often (especially with any sort of sticky tire), I would go ahead and upgrade. I know SpectorV broke the spider gears in his with just a couple bolt-ons and street tires at the track.

You never know with a 7.5. On the other hand, you'll have a hard time breaking an 8.8 with anything short of a pretty extremely modified V6.
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Old 03-27-2006, 06:15 PM   #4
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

8.8>7.5

.
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Old 03-27-2006, 11:20 PM   #5
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

If the most you plan on doing is a 75 shot, the 7.5 will probably be sufficient if you get a Detroit T-lock or the Auburn unit. Oh, and sticky tires = no.
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Old 03-28-2006, 02:48 AM   #6
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadow
If the most you plan on doing is a 75 shot, the 7.5 will probably be sufficient if you get a Detroit T-lock or the Auburn unit. Oh, and sticky tires = no.
sticky tires+girdle=yes
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Old 03-28-2006, 11:44 AM   #7
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

if you EVER plan to go to the track or any course event do NOT put a 7.5 in. Simple as that. You need to make sure you have someone that can install gears/tlok for you and warranty the work aginst whinning and failure~ in WRITING etc etc, gears are a tricky item to install for people who dont know what they are doing. They dont just bolt up.
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Old 03-28-2006, 01:17 PM   #8
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Quote:
Originally Posted by neatofrito1618
sticky tires+girdle=yes
Nope.
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:00 PM   #9
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

No one knows. They give out under the weirdest circumstances.
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:12 PM   #10
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadow
Nope.
It would be fine, as long as your not making too much power and launching at a relatively low RPM.
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Old 03-29-2006, 09:24 AM   #11
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

the weak link is NOT the gears is the spide gear in the tlock unit, thats what will break on you.
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Old 04-01-2006, 04:04 PM   #12
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Quote:
Originally Posted by neatofrito1618
It would be fine, as long as your not making too much power and launching at a relatively low RPM.

Where's the fun in that?
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Old 04-02-2006, 08:26 PM   #13
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

I was told that somewhere north of 350rwhp when a 7.5 can break on you, and it's a sensitive unit also. I'd say to be on the safe side, save up for an 8.8 swap
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Old 04-03-2006, 12:33 PM   #14
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Quote:
Originally Posted by spadez81
I was told that somewhere north of 350rwhp when a 7.5 can break on you, and it's a sensitive unit also. I'd say to be on the safe side, save up for an 8.8 swap
300 is the "said" number that they tend to start breaking at, but sticky tires arent their friends either. I know pete from fordchips was running close to 11's or possibly even 10s on his 7.5". As brent said, theyre pretty hit or miss as to whether they break or not. Best thing to do if youre worried is just upgrade it, then sell your 7.5 as a whole.. you might even come out on top.
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Old 04-06-2006, 10:22 AM   #15
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZimStang
300 is the "said" number that they tend to start breaking at, but sticky tires arent their friends either. I know pete from fordchips was running close to 11's or possibly even 10s on his 7.5". As brent said, theyre pretty hit or miss as to whether they break or not. Best thing to do if youre worried is just upgrade it, then sell your 7.5 as a whole.. you might even come out on top.

This is correct. It's all basic physics and characteristics of metal really. If you have 7.5" of steel and you suddenly apply a force to it, it's only a matter of time before it will break. But that also depends on the amount of force. Now apply the same logic to the 8.8 and it's easy to see the 8.8 will always outlast the 7.5. Also, then you have to go in alloy mixtures and all that crap, but that's just gonna make a long post that most of you won't understand anyway. And one final note, lubrication is the key. If you apply alot of heat and friction to metal, it "heat treats" the metal making them become tougher yet more brittle. So make sure you always have good gear oil and a good amount in there.
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:53 PM   #16
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

The 8.8 is not to expensive i would get that, i got mine with 4.10 gearand uppe and lower control arms for 400 bucks just got to wait for deals.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:05 PM   #17
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

I've put over $1000 in my 7.5 and i plan on running around 350rwhp in like 6 months.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:11 PM   #18
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Quote:
Originally Posted by neatofrito1618
I've put over $1000 in my 7.5 and i plan on running around 350rwhp in like 6 months.
$1000? what did you do that cost so much? you can get a brand new 8.8 for cheaper.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:20 PM   #19
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Traction lok + Gears + Labor = about 1000 dollars
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Old 04-06-2006, 08:46 PM   #20
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Re: 7.5 vs. 8.8

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent
Traction lok + Gears + Labor = about 1000 dollars
Yeah, ford racing 4.10's, detroit locker, and all the bearing and seals replaced with a $300 instillation fee. Now all i need is a girdle.
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