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Old 11-28-2006, 02:15 PM   #1
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Brake upgrade and tire size question?

Ok I'm purchasing the cobra 13inch brake upgrade from jegs and wondering if it is a hard install. I have changed rotors and pads before. Never calipers or lines though. I know a guy that said he would do it for $100 but should I opt for my own install or is this difficult. Def dont' want to F%$k up this job? Also 18x10 inch rims? According to others 295/35/18 is the way to go without tire rub? Is this correct or will they rub? Don't want to pay that much either so I'm looking on ebay and finding decent treads for cheap prices. Not much done to my car and I drive cautio so I don't need to worry about the tires wearing out bad, however worried that the larger tires might rub. Still have 50% tread on all four of my 18x9s which have been on since march of 2005!

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Old 11-28-2006, 06:20 PM   #2
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Re: Brake upgrade and tire size question?

what year is your stang?

if it is 99-04, i guarantee a 295 up front will rub. If it is 05+, i think they will be fine. on my 2000, a 275 rubs at full lock..but it's not a big deal. I think a 305 would be better for a 10" but a 295 is ok too.

I dunno about the brake job, but if you can do it, I'd do it over paying someone else to.


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Old 11-29-2006, 08:14 AM   #3
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Re: Brake upgrade and tire size question?

first off the brake upgrade is VERY cheap, you can do the front brakes for 200 bucks plus the cost of rotors (ONLY BUY ROTORS THAT HAVE A COATING TO PREVENT RUST AND DONT BUY SLOTTED OR DRILLED ROTORS)

go to Ford & Ford Racing Performance Parts - you can get the bullit red calipers or the flat black for very cheap then just get some rotors and 75 buck stainless steel lines.

The install is VERY simple. They just bolt on, you will need 17 inch wheels at least to run the cobra brakes.

The upgrade for the back has the SAME calipers the ONLY difference is a larger rotor, they just use a bracket to move the caliper out a bit so dont waste your money on them~

The basic install is as follows:
1. Jack up the front of the car after you break the lug nuts loose on the front two wheels, scotch the rear tires as well to prevent rolling.
2. Remove the wheels
3. Turn the steeling wheel left/right to gain access to the caiper bolts (behind the cailper they are 15mm in size, there are two others back there on the back of the caliper as well, dont remove the wrong ones)
4. Once you get a good angle you will probably need a breaker bar (long bar with a socket to get enough tq to break the bolts loose) its a VERY good idea to have a strong 15mm socket AND a spare due to the amount of TQ it requires.
5. Once the two caliper bolts are removed you can unbolt the brake line (have a bucket there to catch the fluid) and once the line is removed put the caliper somewhere so the fluid in it can run out without making a mess. If you have new brake lines use a brake line wrent (special wrench, but cheap) to remove the flexible stock rubber line from the hard steel brake line.
6. Put new brake lines on, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO STRIP THE THREADS.
7. Pull off the stock rotors (if they are on good might have to tap them gently around the back side with a hammer) and put new rotors on. If there are little metal cilps on a couple of the wheel studs cut them off/pull them off they are put there by the factory to keep the rotor in place while they mount the wheels.
8. Put the caliper on and start the caliper bolts. VERY carefully start the brake line in the caliper be very very careful not to cross thread it as the caliper is aluminum and basically it ruins it. Just gently get it started, it should take nearly no force~ The caliper bolts need to be tq'ed to 95 ftlbs (check stock specifications to be sure) and this can be the hard part, a nice long tq wrench with the wheel turned sideways so the cailper bolts are easier to get to is the best way to do this.
9. The TQ specifications on the brake line are VERY low so make SURE you do not over tighten the banjo bolt (bolt that is at the brake line where it goes into the cailper)
10. Get fluid and poor into the master cylinder, have a friend pump the brakes and hold them down after a few good pumps (5-10) and as he holds them down take a wrench and open/close the bleeder valve until ONLY fluid comes out (NO Air) do this on both sides and do it a couple more times for good measure. Make sure the fluid in the master cylinder does NOT get low or you will have to start over. the master cylinder is located on the back right of the enging (drivers side)
11. Once fluid is all out of the brakes and your petal has good pressure clean up any brake fulid thats around. Dont use brake cleaner on painted parts or the paint will run.
12. Drive and check for brake leaks, if you smell burning fluid its probably a little leak on the brake line. If you tq them down right to begin with this probably wont happen.
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Old 11-29-2006, 03:45 PM   #4
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Re: Brake upgrade and tire size question?

Now that you have your answers GET BACK TO WORK

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Old 11-29-2006, 03:49 PM   #5
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Re: Brake upgrade and tire size question?

Originally Posted by SpectorV View Post
Why are you saying not to buy slotted rotors? I know why not to buy cross drilled rotors due to warping/cracking/etc, but why are you saying no to slotted? Slots still leave a majority of the rotor material to prevent the cracking drilling can cause. The slots also help vent away everything to prevent gas and dust build up between the rotor and brake pad.

To my knowledge, slotted is a good choice...drilled is not. Can you say why slotted is also a bad choice? Edumacate me please....
"When I know more, I'll be forthcoming. Or I won't be forthcoming, and I'll be honestly deceptive." - Les Miles
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