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Old 05-26-2007, 09:03 PM   #1
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Jack stand positioning

I am going to replace the rotors and pads on the stang and I was just wondering where to place the jack stands so they won't bend or damage anything. I have never used jack stands before so I didn't want to mess anything up. Also, is it a good idea to drain the entire brake system and refill it or just leave it alone. The car is an '00 and has 65,000 miles, I assume the fluid has never been changed.

Thanks!
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Old 05-27-2007, 12:03 PM   #2
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Re: Jack stand positioning

There is no need to drain the brake fluid.

Position the jack stands on the rear frame for holding up the rear and the front frame for holding up the front.

Just be sure to bleed the system very well to ensure the best braking possible.
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Old 05-27-2007, 12:14 PM   #3
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Re: Jack stand positioning

alright thanks
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Old 05-27-2007, 12:24 PM   #4
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Re: Jack stand positioning

If you look under the car on the front you will see the frame rail. it is about 2 inches wide and is about 12 inches in from the side of the car~ this area will be where you want to place the jack stands to hold the front of the car up while you work on it. Just as one other safty measure leave the jack holding up the K member of the car. It would be best to have a hydrolic jack instead of the POS sissor jack that comes in the trunk from the factory.

For the rear if you look where the lower control arms mount to the frame (in front of the rear tire you will see a U shaped item that goes from the bottom of the rear axle to the frame that is the LCA, its open on the bottom or it would be a square box shape) right there right in front of the lca mount would be a good place for the rear jack stands. Google jack stand positions for your rear to see images to make sure you know where to put them for certian. On the rear leave the jack under the pumpkin to keep it supported for extra safty with the jack stands.

For the rotors just remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the front calipers on (they are tight so use a breaker bar and turn the wheel to the side so you can get to the bolts easier and use the longer handle bar to break the bolts loose (buy a hard 15mm socket cuz they tend to break and use a 6 sided one as well)

after those are removed pull the caliper off (there are 4 bolts remove the right two) After this pull the rotor off if there are little metal rings on the wheel studs cut them off to get the rotor off, hit with a hammer slightly if its still suck.

Reverse the process and tq the brake bolts to 95ftlbs~for sure when you put the caliper back on.

Do the rear the same but you will need a special tool to recompress the rear piston in the caliper so make sure you have it.
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Old 05-27-2007, 12:56 PM   #5
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Re: Jack stand positioning

If you get all of the oil fluid out your braking distance will be shortened and use an unopened bottle to fill it back up cause it wont have as must mositure in the fuild or water what it attracts like crazy.
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Old 05-27-2007, 04:09 PM   #6
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Re: Jack stand positioning

so I can pull the front rotors without compressing the piston?? Can't you just put a C-clamp on the caliper to compress the piston for the rear? Also, how do you know how much tq you are putting on a bolt?
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Old 05-27-2007, 05:50 PM   #7
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Re: Jack stand positioning

The fronts you dont have to compress the pistion. Just make sure you dont touch the brake petal when the caliper is off lol. For the rear I dont think a C clamp will work well. The tool is pretty cheap, its just a square shaped thing that you can use to allow you to get the piston back in.

Use a tq wrench to know how much tq to tighten them to. You can get them anywhere and you can probably get one at autozone for rent.
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