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Old 04-12-2011, 10:44 AM   #1
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Lowering Spring

Are they worth The drop?
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:48 AM   #2
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I think that's one of the best things you can do.
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:07 PM   #3
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What was the difference?
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:21 PM   #4
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Re: lowering spring

depend on what brand etc, I think for just a 1 inch drop you will be let down~ looks a bit better but not enough. A 1.5 inch is the best for driving and looks~
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:46 PM   #5
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Spec is right. 1.5" is perfect all around. I has the Eibach pro-kit and I'm happy with how mine sits.
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:44 PM   #6
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Re: lowering spring

A definite must for exterior looks. The stock height on all mustangs is rediculous, it should be the first thing to do. As said, the amount lowered is based on the type of spring. 1.5" is the common drop as it is noticeable and you can still drive around without bottoming out everywhere. A great drop amount for a daily driver wanting improved looks.

Keep in mind that any drop 1.5" or more should have caster camber plates installed to adjust the suspension geometry either back to stock specs (to prevent uneven and accelerated tire wear), or tuned settings for track/SCCA racing etc.

It never hurts to throw in a set of new struts/shocks if you need them since you're tearing that area apart. They are a good idea if you drop 1.7-2" since the stock shocks/struts aren't rated for the load difference and will wear out quickly.
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:27 PM   #7
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I have a 2000 do I need to replace shocks too?
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:06 PM   #8
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Re: lowering spring

austinknoll & kickerofdoom- I am about to do the same thing with my '97 Mustang. I have been researching its possibilities for months now. I have researched most of all the lowering springs possible. If you want a quick run down PM me and I'll share what I've written down so far.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:17 PM   #9
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Re: lowering spring

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicpony03 View Post
A definite must for exterior looks. The stock height on all mustangs is rediculous, it should be the first thing to do. As said, the amount lowered is based on the type of spring. 1.5" is the common drop as it is noticeable and you can still drive around without bottoming out everywhere. A great drop amount for a daily driver wanting improved looks.

Keep in mind that any drop 1.5" or more should have caster camber plates installed to adjust the suspension geometry either back to stock specs (to prevent uneven and accelerated tire wear), or tuned settings for track/SCCA racing etc.

It never hurts to throw in a set of new struts/shocks if you need them since you're tearing that area apart. They are a good idea if you drop 1.7-2" since the stock shocks/struts aren't rated for the load difference and will wear out quickly.
I've never asked anyone but want to know something, my question is this:
Will I have additional comfort in my ride with the additional equipment I have purchased? And can you comment on the additional equipment I purchased, good/bad in different?
A side from the new FRPP "B" Springs and KYB Shocks/Struts-
The additional parts I purchased are- MM Caster Camber Plates, Steeda X2 Ball Joints, and MM Bump Steer Kit.
I am saving for installation & alignment, will have done soon.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:39 PM   #10
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Re: lowering spring

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Originally Posted by robb15033 View Post
I've never asked anyone but want to know something, my question is this:
Will I have additional comfort in my ride with the additional equipment I have purchased? And can you comment on the additional equipment I purchased, good/bad in different?
A side from the new FRPP "B" Springs and KYB Shocks/Struts-
The additional parts I purchased are- MM Caster Camber Plates, Steeda X2 Ball Joints, and MM Bump Steer Kit.
I am saving for installation & alignment, will have done soon.
CC plates are a must if you drop the are a decent amount ~ 1.5" or more. They will keep your geometry in spec so you don't burn thru tires every 10k miles.

Ball Joints are definitely a good idea, for the price it's worth it to replace them since you are tearing that area apart.

The bumpsteer kit is a good idea. New ones will help keep your bumpsteer to a minimum with lowering springs, as it is often exaggerated when lowered.
Bumpsteer usually causes your car to change directions when going over bumps in the road. An exaggerated movement like that could be dangerous on the highway.

I think all those additional components are a good idea and necessary for a complete suspension overhaul.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:27 PM   #11
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Re: lowering spring

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Originally Posted by sonicpony03 View Post
CC plates are a must if you drop the are a decent amount ~ 1.5" or more. They will keep your geometry in spec so you don't burn thru tires every 10k miles.

Ball Joints are definitely a good idea, for the price it's worth it to replace them since you are tearing that area apart.

The bumpsteer kit is a good idea. New ones will help keep your bumpsteer to a minimum with lowering springs, as it is often exaggerated when lowered.
Bumpsteer usually causes your car to change directions when going over bumps in the road. An exaggerated movement like that could be dangerous on the highway.

I think all those additional components are a good idea and necessary for a complete suspension overhaul.
Thanks for the info because I already have the parts. One thing I'm wondering is whether or not those items mentioned, will they help in regards to "raking" the car properly? Help with adjustments so that the back is not lower than the front??
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:16 AM   #12
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Re: lowering spring

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicpony03 View Post
CC plates are a must if you drop the are a decent amount ~ 1.5" or more. They will keep your geometry in spec so you don't burn thru tires every 10k miles.

Ball Joints are definitely a good idea, for the price it's worth it to replace them since you are tearing that area apart.

The bumpsteer kit is a good idea. New ones will help keep your bumpsteer to a minimum with lowering springs, as it is often exaggerated when lowered.
Bumpsteer usually causes your car to change directions when going over bumps in the road. An exaggerated movement like that could be dangerous on the highway.

I think all those additional components are a good idea and necessary for a complete suspension overhaul.
Holy underwear Batman, just to drop the vehicle 1.5" sounds like a HUGE expense with replacing many parts. At least I know what to expect to do whenever I get around to that part. Thanks!
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:10 PM   #13
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Re: lowering spring

Quote:
Originally Posted by robb15033 View Post
Thanks for the info because I already have the parts. One thing I'm wondering is whether or not those items mentioned, will they help in regards to "raking" the car properly? Help with adjustments so that the back is not lower than the front??
Well, most lowering springs will drop the front more than the rear to prevent the rear from sitting lower than the front. To ensure this doesn't happen you can always take out the isolators in the front and leave them in the rear...they usually add ~.5" or give an additional .5" if you remove them.

The additional components you have probably won't affect any type of rake. They are more for alignment and maintaining proper suspension goemetry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfsbain76 View Post
Holy underwear Batman, just to drop the vehicle 1.5" sounds like a HUGE expense with replacing many parts. At least I know what to expect to do whenever I get around to that part. Thanks!
You can most certainly buy just springs and cc plates. Hell, there's a lot of people who just buy springs or cut stock springs and call it a day.

I have ~61k miles on my car and am replacing shocks/struts, springs, bumpsteer and adding CC plates. My struts/shocks are pretty worn due to daily driving about 35k miles of the 61k and rough roads...bumpsteer, same story. A car with lower miles that's been a weekend car most of its life might not need new shocks/struts and a bumpsteer kit right away, but it never hurts to upgrade. Technically when you upgrade one component, you should upgrade all corresponding compenents whose geometry and characterstics might be changed. Think of brakes, you don't just upgrade to high peformance pads, you buy pads, calipers, rotors and lines.
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:37 PM   #14
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Re: Lowering Spring

Thanks again. My concern stems from the fact that only a few sets of lowering springs are specified to be for the V6, I would assume compensating for the 100lb or so difference in weight. That's what worries me- The difference in weight between the V6 and the V8. The majority of springs do not differentiate. B&M, Ford Racing "F", and maybe Eibach list V6 specific. So I went with a set of Fox Body struts/shocks from KYB also. I want to do it right and thats why I have been collecting parts slowly for almost two years. It will all go together in a few weeks.
Thanks again-
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:42 PM   #15
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Re: Lowering Spring

Sounds good...I think you'll be fine...solid research always yields the best results.

Keep us updated and definitely post pics after you get everything installed
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:45 PM   #16
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Re: Lowering Spring

Will do.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicpony03
...Keep in mind that any drop 1.5" or more should have caster camber plates installed to adjust the suspension geometry either back to stock specs...
I've always known it to be 2+
I'm dropped 1.75" with caster/camber within .1 of factory and no plates.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:27 AM   #18
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Re: Lowering Spring

any less than 1.5 you wont get enough of a drop and you will feel bad lol, any more than 2 inches and you may be to low and have issues driving places so somewhere in between is the sweet spot.
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