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Old 10-19-2011, 02:24 PM   #1
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Need some input plez

I guys rookie here. Just bought my brother in laws 01 sixxer for 500 bucks. It needs work so yeah.. While driving I hear a loud sound coming from the rear wheels. Pep boys told me shocks and struts are blown but I feel like it might also be bearings. Any info would be nice thanks
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:40 PM   #2
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is it very bouncy?
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:02 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 00STANG00
is it very bouncy?
Yeah it seems to bounce a lot. Very rough ride

---------- Post added at 03:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:02 PM ----------

Yeah rough ride too
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:13 PM   #4
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Re: Need some input plez

could be shock/struts/rear differential/u-joint/drive shaft/wheel bearings/messed up rotors.....etc.....can you be more specific lol
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:45 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by USAF_stang
could be shock/struts/rear differential/u-joint/drive shaft/wheel bearings/messed up rotors.....etc.....can you be more specific lol
Sorry don't kno much about cars yet still trying to Learn the DIY thing with my car. I really don't know which of those things are messed up. I'm going to replace the shocks and struts first and see how it rides after that
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:16 PM   #6
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Shocks are definitely going to help the ride. As for the popping you're going to need to pin point when it makes the noise. When you speed up? Slow down? Hit the brakes? Turn? Hit a bump? Etc. As for a u joint going out it will sound like someone wrapped a coat hanger around your drive shaft. And the rear ends generally whine. Bearings will sound more like a constant grinding and get louder when you turn and put lateral force on the tires...
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:27 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ruthless
Shocks are definitely going to help the ride. As for the popping you're going to need to pin point when it makes the noise. When you speed up? Slow down? Hit the brakes? Turn? Hit a bump? Etc. As for a u joint going out it will sound like someone wrapped a coat hanger around your drive shaft. And the rear ends generally whine. Bearings will sound more like a constant grinding and get louder when you turn and put lateral force on the tires...
Well it makes that popping sound usually when I speed up and sometimes when I make a turn but not that often. My car also burns tire quickly sometimes but I'm sure it's because of the bad suspension
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:38 PM   #8
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Ok definitely sounding like a shock/strut issue. When you accelerate you put weight to the rear and also when you turn you put additional weight one one side and take it from the other. Causing your shocks to move and articulate. Definitely makes sense.

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Where abouts in Texas are you from?
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:45 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Ruthless
Ok definitely sounding like a shock/strut issue. When you accelerate you put weight to the rear and also when you turn you put additional weight one one side and take it from the other. Causing your shocks to move and articulate. Definitely makes sense.

---------- Post added at 07:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:37 PM ----------

Where abouts in Texas are you from?
San antonio . Another quick question. If I buy new bushings do I need a need a new sway bar to go with it ? Would it be best to get one ?
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:54 PM   #10
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That I dont know for sure but a larger sway bar is almost never a bad thing except for weight... Also if you stiffen your sway bar you need to have the rest of your suspension to be sound or you will end up just pointing yourself in the direction of another worn out part. However to answer your question I don't imagine you would need a new sway bar nor should you need new bushings. How many miles does the car have? And has it always been a Texas car? No salted roads? I have a buddy who has I think almost 280,000 miles on completely stock suspension. Still rides descent.
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:35 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Ruthless
That I dont know for sure but a larger sway bar is almost never a bad thing except for weight... Also if you stiffen your sway bar you need to have the rest of your suspension to be sound or you will end up just pointing yourself in the direction of another worn out part. However to answer your question I don't imagine you would need a new sway bar nor should you need new bushings. How many miles does the car have? And has it always been a Texas car? No salted roads? I have a buddy who has I think almost 280,000 miles on completely stock suspension. Still rides descent.
It has like 175,000 on it and yeah as far as I know it has always been a Texas car. Hopefully it will ride better with new shocks and struts. I think the front rotors are bad 2 since it takes a bit to completely stop sometimes . Unless its the bad suspension that's making it do that also
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:02 PM   #12
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As far as the brakes. That is a completely separate system. The suspension has little affect on the braking. Certainly not enough for a daily driver to be concerned about. So with that you're looking at possibly needing to bleed the brakes possibly new pads. And possibly new rotors. Pads could be worn and grinding or could be glazed and slippery from extended excessive heat. Air in the lines could be the problem as the pedal won't be stiff it will push really far down with ease. Could be a leak in the system which can be tested by pumping the brake a few times while parked. Then pressing the pedal all the way and holding firm pressure. The pedal should not move. If it goes down slowly then there is a leak somewhere and for the rotors usually they get warped and will cause a shuttering feeling as you apply brakes. Usually you it will pull towards the bad rotor when you brake.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruthless
As far as the brakes. That is a completely separate system. The suspension has little affect on the braking. Certainly not enough for a daily driver to be concerned about. So with that you're looking at possibly needing to bleed the brakes possibly new pads. And possibly new rotors. Pads could be worn and grinding or could be glazed and slippery from extended excessive heat. Air in the lines could be the problem as the pedal won't be stiff it will push really far down with ease. Could be a leak in the system which can be tested by pumping the brake a few times while parked. Then pressing the pedal all the way and holding firm pressure. The pedal should not move. If it goes down slowly then there is a leak somewhere and for the rotors usually they get warped and will cause a shuttering feeling as you apply brakes. Usually you it will pull towards the bad rotor when you brake.
Thanks for the info I'll test it out after work .
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