Balljoints - Page 2 - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > Pre-2005 V6 Mustang



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 03-09-2012, 09:11 AM   #36
Registered Member
Regular
 
mustangg2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Region: Arkansas
Posts: 654
Quote:
Originally Posted by svtlx
im on the fence on the whole shock thing... as far as wearing them out quicker.. cause technicaly, i guesse when u think bout it... your actualy decreasing the rate of travel the shock has to work with lowering springs. i think that may be more true with lifting a vehicle ppast stock height with stock shocks...because then u are increasing the rate of travel for the shock.. in turn causing it to work harder cause ur increasing the overall area that it has to dampen. with lowering springs... your significantly reducing the duty cycle for the shock.

i hope wut i said makes sense to someone.. or if i wrong, someone please explain it to me..
Makes perfect since I agree with u.. I lifted my truck I had and didn't put upgraded shocks on it and I went to play with it hit a hill hard when I landed it blow out my front shocks cause I had them maxd out
mustangg2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-09-2012, 09:27 AM   #37
Registered Member
Regular
 
ColeJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ketchikan, Alaska
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 2,507
I didn't read a lot of the most recent posts but will say I have a buddy running nearly a 2" drop on his 2004 Mach 1 on stock plates and having no abnormal wear. I lowered nearly 1.75" or more with plates and have no abnormal wear.

I rode with stock shocks for roughly 1500 miles and maxed them and bottomed them out constantly on the smallest changes in the road and lost alignment quickly. Got aftermarket shocks on and never bottomed or maxed them and it's held alignment Completely true.

Everyone will tell you different things. I did the x2 ball joints, steeda bumpsteer, maxim c/c plates, Tokico d-spec shocks/struts, and did all the work myself. Took an afternoon and a few beers. Completely satisfied with the results and rides smoother and is more responsive than new cars I've driven. I fully recommend going all out while you're doing it. But if you chose to go cheap.. That's your prerogative as well.

Best of luck!
__________________

2016 Comp Orange GT (current)
Aurora - 2002 Boosted GT! (Sold, sadly)
ColeJohnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2012, 09:34 AM   #38
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 2,801
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson
I didn't read a lot of the most recent posts but will say I have a buddy running nearly a 2" drop on his 2004 Mach 1 on stock plates and having no abnormal wear. I lowered nearly 1.75" or more with plates and have no abnormal wear.

I rode with stock shocks for roughly 1500 miles and maxed them and bottomed them out constantly on the smallest changes in the road and lost alignment quickly. Got aftermarket shocks on and never bottomed or maxed them and it's held alignment Completely true.

Everyone will tell you different things. I did the x2 ball joints, steeda bumpsteer, maxim c/c plates, Tokico d-spec shocks/struts, and did all the work myself. Took an afternoon and a few beers. Completely satisfied with the results and rides smoother and is more responsive than new cars I've driven. I fully recommend going all out while you're doing it. But if you chose to go cheap.. That's your prerogative as well.

Best of luck!
That was the plan
Blackedout is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-09-2012, 10:07 AM   #39
Titus Wadicus
Regular
 
svtlx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Region: Ohio
Posts: 2,103
Send a message via Yahoo to svtlx
Re: Balljoints

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColeJohnson View Post
I didn't read a lot of the most recent posts but will say I have a buddy running nearly a 2" drop on his 2004 Mach 1 on stock plates and having no abnormal wear. I lowered nearly 1.75" or more with plates and have no abnormal wear.

I rode with stock shocks for roughly 1500 miles and maxed them and bottomed them out constantly on the smallest changes in the road and lost alignment quickly. Got aftermarket shocks on and never bottomed or maxed them and it's held alignment Completely true.

Everyone will tell you different things. I did the x2 ball joints, steeda bumpsteer, maxim c/c plates, Tokico d-spec shocks/struts, and did all the work myself. Took an afternoon and a few beers. Completely satisfied with the results and rides smoother and is more responsive than new cars I've driven. I fully recommend going all out while you're doing it. But if you chose to go cheap.. That's your prerogative as well.

Best of luck!
sooo im truly interested in how u got alignment issues from wore out shocks. are u meaning camber/caster issues.... or actual car pulls hard left or right?

cause it sounds like u needed new shocks to begin with...
__________________

bbk ssi, 70ml t.b., bbk adj.reg., bd11-a 11psi, e-cam,
racing aod, 2700 stall, 3.42 gears, ported e7, 308ci, 1.7rr, comp .560valve springs, gear drive, high dwell module, msd 6a & coil, bbk off road xpipe, mac cat back, 30lbs inj, pro-m 90mm, welded subframe connectors, boxed upper & lower trailing arms, spherical axle bushings, 255/50/16 tires, 255lph pump, 456hp
svtlx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2012, 11:23 AM   #40
Registered Member
Regular
 
tfalk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 113
Re: Balljoints

If you install the Steeda X2 ball joints, be forewarned you need to clearance the brake dust shields or remove them. If you don't, you will have the most annoying squeaking sound that will drive you nutz after a while. I removed the shields on my 99, just more brake dust to clean off the wheels.
__________________
99-122 Bright Atlantic Blue S281 S/C Convertible
11-025 Grabber Blue S302 Convertible

Saleen - Power in the hands of a fool!
tfalk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2012, 01:29 PM   #41
Registered Member
Regular
 
ColeJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ketchikan, Alaska
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 2,507
Quote:
Originally Posted by svtlx

sooo im truly interested in how u got alignment issues from wore out shocks. are u meaning camber/caster issues.... or actual car pulls hard left or right?

cause it sounds like u needed new shocks to begin with...
Te shocks did need replaced regardless. It would hold alignment if I just Sunday drove everywhere, but hittin corners hard, going fast and hitting elevation changes.. Threw it all out quick. The car would start pulling hard to the right after a week on straights. Eh.

---------- Post added at 01:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:28 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by tfalk
If you install the Steeda X2 ball joints, be forewarned you need to clearance the brake dust shields or remove them. If you don't, you will have the most annoying squeaking sound that will drive you nutz after a while. I removed the shields on my 99, just more brake dust to clean off the wheels.
+1 I just bent my shields back and forth until the metal weakened and they snapped off.

Also with the stock shocks they were causing problems like when I went to get it realigned with new shocks the toe was -2 and camber -3. Haha.
__________________

2016 Comp Orange GT (current)
Aurora - 2002 Boosted GT! (Sold, sadly)
ColeJohnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2012, 05:33 PM   #42
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 2,801
Are these great lowering springs?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...-79-04-v6.html
Blackedout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2012, 07:30 PM   #43
Registered Member
Regular
 
ColeJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ketchikan, Alaska
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 2,507
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackedout
Everyone has their own opinion. I've heard good and bad things about those. Only heard good about the H&R SS springs I chose to use. Honestly it depends in what performance you're looking for and which drop height you want
__________________

2016 Comp Orange GT (current)
Aurora - 2002 Boosted GT! (Sold, sadly)
ColeJohnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2012, 10:09 PM   #44
Registered Member
Regular
 
sonicpony03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: WI
Region: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,411
Re: Balljoints

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackedout View Post
I've heard mixed reviews about Pro Kit springs.

The amount of lowering varied from 1" go 1.6", I'd be pissed if I was expecting 1.5" and only got 1" lol.

I've also heard of them sagging after time...I've never heard of H&R springs sagging...damn germans make good sh*t

Keep in mind the Pro Kit and H&R springs are completely different.

Pro Kit springs are generally more dd friendly, as they are softer than the H&R's and don't lower the car as much.

The H&R's are more performance oriented as they are much stiffer and lower the car 1.6" in the front and 1.75" in the rear.

I chose the H&R Super Sports because I wanted a major drop with some performance in mind. Yes they are definitely stiffer and it can make longer trips a rough ride in the cabin, but the handling characteristics are the bomb and drop is to die for

The H&R Race springs maintain the same performance handling characteristics while lowering the car less than the super sports, so if you want a stiffer spring with less drop, those are your springs. The Eibach Sportlines on the other hand are like the Super Sports...1.5-1.7" drop with more handling performance in mind.

There's also Ford Racing springs too...they offer different springs with different drops and handling characteristics...they tend to be cheaper too.
__________________


12 Black GT500 SVT PP l VMP TVS l JLT123 l O/R X l 28x11.50Rx15 M/T Street R's l BMR Suspension l Recaros

03 Sonic Blue 3.8 / 17 Magnetic Fusion Sport 2.7 EB
sonicpony03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2012, 12:03 AM   #45
Registered Member
Regular
 
ColeJohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ketchikan, Alaska
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 2,507
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicpony03

I've heard mixed reviews about Pro Kit springs.

The amount of lowering varied from 1" go 1.6", I'd be pissed if I was expecting 1.5" and only got 1" lol.

I've also heard of them sagging after time...I've never heard of H&R springs sagging...damn germans make good sh*t

Keep in mind the Pro Kit and H&R springs are completely different.

Pro Kit springs are generally more dd friendly, as they are softer than the H&R's and don't lower the car as much.

The H&R's are more performance oriented as they are much stiffer and lower the car 1.6" in the front and 1.75" in the rear.

I chose the H&R Super Sports because I wanted a major drop with some performance in mind. Yes they are definitely stiffer and it can make longer trips a rough ride in the cabin, but the handling characteristics are the bomb and drop is to die for

The H&R Race springs maintain the same performance handling characteristics while lowering the car less than the super sports, so if you want a stiffer spring with less drop, those are your springs. The Eibach Sportlines on the other hand are like the Super Sports...1.5-1.7" drop with more handling performance in mind.

There's also Ford Racing springs too...they offer different springs with different drops and handling characteristics...they tend to be cheaper too.
+111111111 couldn't have said this better. H&R all the way.
__________________

2016 Comp Orange GT (current)
Aurora - 2002 Boosted GT! (Sold, sadly)
ColeJohnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2012, 08:17 AM   #46
Registered Member
Regular
 
tfalk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Region: New Jersey
Posts: 113
Re: Balljoints

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicpony03 View Post
The H&R Race springs maintain the same performance handling characteristics while lowering the car less than the super sports, so if you want a stiffer spring with less drop, those are your springs.
And if you really want your car to ride like a skateboard, go with the H&R Super Race Springs and matching bilsteins like I have...
__________________
99-122 Bright Atlantic Blue S281 S/C Convertible
11-025 Grabber Blue S302 Convertible

Saleen - Power in the hands of a fool!
tfalk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2012, 08:25 AM   #47
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 2,801
H&R then
Blackedout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2012, 08:32 AM   #48
Titus Wadicus
Regular
 
svtlx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Region: Ohio
Posts: 2,103
Send a message via Yahoo to svtlx
Re: Balljoints

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicpony03 View Post
I've heard mixed reviews about Pro Kit springs.

The amount of lowering varied from 1" go 1.6", I'd be pissed if I was expecting 1.5" and only got 1" lol.

I've also heard of them sagging after time...I've never heard of H&R springs sagging...damn germans make good sh*t

Keep in mind the Pro Kit and H&R springs are completely different.

Pro Kit springs are generally more dd friendly, as they are softer than the H&R's and don't lower the car as much.

The H&R's are more performance oriented as they are much stiffer and lower the car 1.6" in the front and 1.75" in the rear.

I chose the H&R Super Sports because I wanted a major drop with some performance in mind. Yes they are definitely stiffer and it can make longer trips a rough ride in the cabin, but the handling characteristics are the bomb and drop is to die for

The H&R Race springs maintain the same performance handling characteristics while lowering the car less than the super sports, so if you want a stiffer spring with less drop, those are your springs. The Eibach Sportlines on the other hand are like the Super Sports...1.5-1.7" drop with more handling performance in mind.

There's also Ford Racing springs too...they offer different springs with different drops and handling characteristics...they tend to be cheaper too.
wow, u did an awesome job explaining that... you should explain the difference between progressive and specific rate... im guessing u have specific rate.

i could explain it, but i think u do a better job. lol
__________________

bbk ssi, 70ml t.b., bbk adj.reg., bd11-a 11psi, e-cam,
racing aod, 2700 stall, 3.42 gears, ported e7, 308ci, 1.7rr, comp .560valve springs, gear drive, high dwell module, msd 6a & coil, bbk off road xpipe, mac cat back, 30lbs inj, pro-m 90mm, welded subframe connectors, boxed upper & lower trailing arms, spherical axle bushings, 255/50/16 tires, 255lph pump, 456hp
svtlx is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > Pre-2005 V6 Mustang

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Balljoints, struts, suspension, etc Ajmt719 Pre-2005 V6 Mustang 28 03-01-2012 06:25 PM
Steeda X2 balljoints runvsofthisbull Mustang Parts for Sale and Wanted 1 05-18-2011 08:01 AM
Need new Balljoints runvsofthisbull Pre-2005 V6 Mustang 2 08-05-2010 03:35 PM
Sidepipes, DD FR500's Hypercoated, X2 Balljoints, and more pics.. Blwnbyu Mustang Audio & Video 37 12-07-2007 11:58 PM

» Like Us On Facebook



12:52 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.