Lowered Mustangs

[xhgwx]

How much of a drop would you recommend, I live in oklahoma(bumpy roads, some steep inclines) and don't wanna bottom out or scrap, but would like to get a low aggressive look and better handling.
Looking at
Springs
Sway bars
And the 3 point bar in the engine bay(can't remember the name ATM)
And C.Cs

Also would after market struts be recommended?
Or should I just get coil overs?
Consider I would probably never adjust them after I dropped it.

[Horseplay]

i just got my drop yesterday and i freakin love it. an their just drop zone springs.but next year when ima this again with the gt, i think im going to save up for full coilovers. im a super picky guy with my car, and with full coilovers u can even every corner out the same. but a good set of springs and aftermarket shocks will do fine as well. idk how the streets are over there, but streets r s**t everywhere. i went low cuz i love it f*** it. if u havent instaled new shocks/struts, then when instaling the springs it might good a chance to instal the shocks as well.

[xhgwx]

Originally Posted by Horseplay

i just got my drop yesterday and i freakin love it. an their just drop zone springs.but next year when ima this again with the gt, i think im going to save up for full coilovers. im a super picky guy with my car, and with full coilovers u can even every corner out the same. but a good set of springs and aftermarket shocks will do fine as well. idk how the streets are over there, but streets r s**t everywhere. i went low cuz i love it f*** it. if u havent instaled new shocks/struts, then when instaling the springs it might good a chance to instal the shocks as well.

I was looking at H&R spring because my uncle dropped his Mercedes with those and love them.
And balstien shock/struts(I here good things about them) Steeda C.Cs
All new bushings and sway bars.
The H&Rs drop almost 2"
And my uncle said in his merc the ride was still really smooth but it cornered like a monster

---------- Post added at 12:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 PM ----------

PS how was install?
Any special tools needed?

---------- Post added at 12:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:34 PM ----------

Unless you recommend any other CCs that aren't 250

[Horseplay]

Originally Posted by xhgwx

I was looking at H&R spring because my uncle dropped his Mercedes with those and love them.
And balstien shock/struts(I here good things about them) Steeda C.Cs
All new bushings and sway bars.
The H&Rs drop almost 2"
And my uncle said in his merc the ride was still really smooth but it cornered like a monster

---------- Post added at 12:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 PM ----------

PS how was install?
Any special tools needed?

---------- Post added at 12:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:34 PM ----------

Unless you recommend any other CCs that aren't 250

well that setup u listed sounds perfect. i still needa buy some cc plates for mine. i didnt wana spend much cuz ima sell it in feb. and instal wasnt so bad cuz i had help from my dads friend cuz he has a shop.

[xhgwx]

Originally Posted by Horseplay

well that setup u listed sounds perfect. i still needa buy some cc plates for mine. i didnt wana spend much cuz ima sell it in feb. and instal wasnt so bad cuz i had help from my dads friend cuz he has a shop.

Going up to a GT I see? Have fun in that, my next mustang will be a cobra, so the sixxer stays until the engine goes(that is if I don't put a 4.2l in it first)
but I want a good low lookin ride, but I'm worried about wheels and tires I'll
Have 18x10s in back....

---------- Post added at 12:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ----------

Would install be possible on jack stands? How long did it take u?

[SpectorV]

for 94-04 1.5 inches is a good sweet spot for looks without much hassle in normal driving. Much more and you simply start to have more and more issues.

Stock height is about 28.25 inches~

any less than 1.5 inches is barley noticable.

[Horseplay]

Originally Posted by xhgwx

Going up to a GT I see? Have fun in that, my next mustang will be a cobra, so the sixxer stays until the engine goes(that is if I don't put a 4.2l in it first)
but I want a good low lookin ride, but I'm worried about wheels and tires I'll
Have 18x10s in back....

---------- Post added at 12:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ----------

Would install be possible on jack stands? How long did it take u?

hopflefully im not sure what car im gona want. and i just wanted a low ride till then so thats why i didnt go with h&r

[robb15033]

FYI- I have longtube headers too-
This is what mine looks like.
FRPP "B" springs no iso's, KYB struts/shocks, MM C/C plates, MM bumpsteer kit, Steeda X2 balljoints:

[xhgwx]

Originally Posted by robb15033

FYI- I have longtube headers too-
This is what mine looks like.
FRPP "B" springs no iso's, KYB struts/shocks, MM C/C plates, MM bumpsteer kit, Steeda X2 balljoints:

Thats sick. Is that a 1.2"

[Havoc]

I have no clue what springs these are but it's got a nice drop and the bounce is a little crazy I try an avoid pot holes lol but it is very smooth handling tho

[Horseplay]

go low or go home !!

[Havoc]

Originally Posted by Horseplay

go low or go home !!

^ Agreed

[robb15033]

Originally Posted by xhgwx

Thats sick. Is that a 1.2"

It's at least a 2" drop. Because our engine is 100lbs lighter than the V8, I put on the X2 balljoints which give you some additional lowering up front. The springs, shocks & struts are Fox Body. An inch or two shorter than stock. It all turned out great. The ride is so comfortable and the handling is phenomenal, turning, bumps while turning, braking without nose dive, ect.. I love it. Ford Racing "F" springs are specifically made for our V6 cars. I have a complete list of all the manufacturers who make lowering springs for our cars and their spring rates somewhere, if you ever need it.
Some pics of my 10 hour install (first timer):



---------- Post added at 06:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:49 AM ----------

FYI:
BUMPSTEER:
Here is a fairly length explanation

Definition of bumpsteer: Bump-steer is a change in toe* angle caused by the suspension moving up or down. Bump-steer is built into the geometry of the suspension and steering system, and has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel. The effect of bump-steer is for the wheel to toe-in or toe-out when the suspension moves up or down. This toe change or "steering" occurs any time the suspension moves, whether it is from body roll, brake-dive, or hitting a bump in the road. Bump steer is undesirable because the suspension is steering the car instead of the driver.

Cause of bumpsteer: The front wheels do not move directly straight up or down when the car hits a bump. Instead, the wheel follows an arc, or curving path, that pushes the wheel slightly inward (towards the centerline of the car) or outward (away from the car) in response to vertical wheel movement. The outer tie-rod (which connects the steering rack to the wheel) also moves in-and-out in an arc as it moves up and down. If the rate which the outer tie-rod arcs in or out does not match the rate the wheel moves in or out, the wheel will be turned by the tie-rod. This is bumpsteer.
The center point of the arc traveled by the wheel (known as the instant-center) is controlled by the location and angle of the moving suspension links. This point moves as the ride height changes. In contrast, the arc of the outer tie-rod is controlled by the position of the steering rack, which is fixed. In order to eliminate bumpsteer, both the length and the center point of the two arcs must be the same. However, since the instant center moves with ride height, bumpsteer cannot be eliminated throughout the entire range of suspension travel. Therefore suspension designers concentrate on minimizing bumpsteer within the range of movement closest to factory ride height. Changing the ride height or other suspension components may move the suspension outside this narrow "optimized" window
X2 BALLJOINT:
Designed For Optimum Handling. Steeda's X2 Ball Joint will greatly improve the suspension geometry on your lowered Mustang by raising the spindle relative to the pivot-point of the ball joint. This raises the roll center back into the correct range, resulting in reduced body roll, quicker steering response and improved overall front tire grip.

Tested In Extreme Conditions. The X2 ball joints are made in the USA to Steeda's strict specifications by a respected name-brand supplier to Ford, GM, and Chrysler. Except for their unique custom length, these ball joints are constructed from the the same OEM materials that have been extensively tested in Ford police cars and other heavy duty service vehicles, where they have far exceeded the durability of current production "stock" ball joints.

Eliminates Body Roll. The X2 ball joint was specifically designed to correct the front roll center geometry. The X2 ball joint features a longer shaft, to raise the spindle in relation to the ball joint pivot point. Springs spacers are included in the X2 kit to maintain the same ride height as the stock factory ball joint, but with an improved roll center height.
Quick reference information to assist in decision making.
Ford Mustang (94-04).
BACK FRONT (lbs/in)
FRPP:
B- 425/530 200/300
C- 650 200/300
F- 460/570 170/310
G- 460/570 200/250
BBK:
650 250
Steeda:
650 250
Eibach Pro Kit:
456/570 200/251
Eibach Sportline:
425/550 200/251
H&R Sport:
490/575 250/285
H&R Race:
750/850 260/280
Vogtland:
440 552

[Justasix98]

Originally Posted by xhgwx

How much of a drop would you recommend, I live in oklahoma(bumpy roads, some steep inclines) and don't wanna bottom out or scrap, but would like to get a low aggressive look and better handling.
Looking at
Springs
Sway bars
And the 3 point bar in the engine bay(can't remember the name ATM)
And C.Cs

Also would after market struts be recommended?
Or should I just get coil overs?
Consider I would probably never adjust them after I dropped it.

Where exactly in ok are you ?

[Horseplay]

are the plates that hard to instal ? im gona order mine this coming week i think

[robb15033]

No, they are very easy to install. Only takes a couple of minutes when upgrading springs/shocks & struts. You can get a quick view of the directions on MM website. You can see what size drill bit, ect..

[Horseplay]

Originally Posted by robb15033

No, they are very easy to install. Only takes a couple of minutes when upgrading springs/shocks & struts. You can get a quick view of the directions on MM website. You can see what size drill bit, ect..

sweet i'll check it out thanks robb

[xhgwx]

Originally Posted by Justasix98

Where exactly in ok are you ?

Edmond