NEED HELP! 04 Mustang 3.8l Oxygen sensors?

[berry21]

Hi everyone, so let me first start this off by saying, I really don't know much about cars. I do know the basics and can figure stuff out quickly, I just don't have to full knowledge of it as you guys do.

Anyway, I have a 2004 Mustang V6 3.8l and about a week ago my "check engine light" came on. So the other day I took it to get the codes read and this code came up: P2195

Its says it has to do with the oxygen sensors. Here's what the print out says the probable causes are:

1. Failed HO2S11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
2. Open or short circuit condition
3. Failed fuel pump or blocked fuel filter
4. MAF sensor failure
5. Vacuum leak

I replaced both of the sensors in front of the converter, took it back to AutoZone to make sure its still just throwing that 1 code (it was) and then had him clear the codes. Then I took it back home and by about mile 6 I figured "Hey since I drove it a little already, I should probably go ahead and shut her down and start her again to see that does anything." Did that, drove about 200 feet then the light came back on.

So basically, what the f*ck do I do? lol Since its some emissions crap, do you think I might have to drive it for a full drive cycle for it kick in or something and the light will just go away? What do you guys think it could be? Any help what be very appreciated!

Oh btw! Would the failure of the oxygen sensors have an effect on my gas mileage? I feel like I'm getting crappier mpg

[V6 stang]

My o2's are out too doesn't do to much I don't feel like. If it affected ur mpg's it's prolly insignificant. Auto zone should be able to check exactly what it is. Maybe take it back and try again. I check mine and it specifically says my o2's have failed. Maybe you have a few things goin on? I believe my back ones are the ones failed btw. If you have a tuner you can turn your sensors off so no more check engine light

[kickerofdoom]

Well I have a code of lean bank 2 and i know that It's the oxygen sensor. If you have code for the oxygen sensor it self that means the thing is still working you have a different problem. Oxygen sensor should be change every 100k miles I have 164k and have stock so i need to change both my mpg are decent so they don't cause much change in my mpg

[1slosix]

even if he cleared the code it only killed the light...it didn't reset the live memory. you may have fixed the issue and it's running fine now but the light won't go out 100% until you complete a drive cycle. If the light is still on after 100 miles then have it retested. If you'd like to reset your live data before doing a drive cycle pull the negative battery terminal off for 15 minutes...hook it back up and then we'll see how it goes in a cycle hope this helps

[berry21]

Yea I really shouldn't even have to replace the O2 sensors because it only has 67k on it... but sh*t happens.

Thanks for everyones feedback and here's a pic of the Autozone code receipt.



---------- Post added at 09:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 PM ----------

Holy cow thats a big pic! lol Well, easier to read eh?!

---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:00 PM ----------

Originally Posted by 1slosix

even if he cleared the code it only killed the light...it didn't reset the live memory. you may have fixed the issue and it's running fine now but the light won't go out 100% until you complete a drive cycle. If the light is still on after 100 miles then have it retested. If you'd like to reset your live data before doing a drive cycle pull the negative battery terminal off for 15 minutes...hook it back up and then we'll see how it goes in a cycle hope this helps

Thanks, I'll def give it a shot! Appreciate the help

[1slosix]

no problem...and you'd be surprised how many customers i get with bad o2 sensors. mileage really doesn't play into it....the quality of gas does more then anything. that and if the fuel isn't burning right it can foul out the sensor if you're running too rich

[berry21]

Originally Posted by 1slosix

no problem...and you'd be surprised how many customers i get with bad o2 sensors. mileage really doesn't play into it....the quality of gas does more then anything. that and if the fuel isn't burning right it can foul out the sensor if you're running too rich

Good to know! May have to feed my baby the good stuff

So a full drive cycle is 100 miles on a mustang? I've already driven about 60 on it since the lights been reset. Should I just go ahead and pull off the negative side off the battery and wait 15min? Will I still have to drive the full cycle after I take disconnect the battery, or should it just be good?

[1slosix]

Originally Posted by berry21

Good to know! May have to feed my baby the good stuff

So a full drive cycle is 100 miles on a mustang? I've already driven about 60 on it since the lights been reset. Should I just go ahead and pull off the negative side off the battery and wait 15min? Will I still have to drive the full cycle after I take disconnect the battery, or should it just be good?

honestly i don't know what the drive cycle is...somewhere between 50-100 miles on most vehicles. and after pulling the battery you'll need to do the drive cycle if you're gonna go through emissions. if not they'll fail you just on the not passing on the drive cycle part (been there lol and only because i needed a new battery a day before emissions) if you still have a light on after it though get it retested and see if the code is the same or shifted...if it's the same and the o2's were replaced i'd start looking for leaks

[berry21]

Originally Posted by 1slosix

honestly i don't know what the drive cycle is...somewhere between 50-100 miles on most vehicles. and after pulling the battery you'll need to do the drive cycle if you're gonna go through emissions. if not they'll fail you just on the not passing on the drive cycle part (been there lol and only because i needed a new battery a day before emissions) if you still have a light on after it though get it retested and see if the code is the same or shifted...if it's the same and the o2's were replaced i'd start looking for leaks

Thanks! I really appreciate all the help. I just disconnected the battery, so I guess I'll find out soon

[1slosix]

Originally Posted by berry21

Thanks! I really appreciate all the help. I just disconnected the battery, so I guess I'll find out soon

no problem man...i just hope it helps you out

[berry21]

Originally Posted by 1slosix

no problem man...i just hope it helps you out

ME TOO! lol I'll keep you guys posted on what happens...

[V6 stang]

So glad there's not emissions around here, they're a b*tch lol

[kickerofdoom]

I'm sure that code isn't real

[Mike SVOR]

Whats a cheap brand of O2 sensors you guys recomend?

[sixpac]

Originally Posted by Mike SVOR

Whats a cheap brand of O2 sensors you guys recomend?

Just go to oreillys and tell them you want the chrapest

[Randl114]

Be carefull about code readers. Autozone and Advance want to sell you stuff. Often times when an oxygen sensor code appears it is due to other things, not really that the sensor is bad it is just doing its job. If you are also throwing a MAF code that has the ability to trigger a O2 code. The car can run lean or rich and it cause a O2 code, just be carefull. I would take it to somebody that not only read but understand the codes.

[berry21]

Originally Posted by kickerofdoom

I'm sure that code isn't real

Why do you say that the code isn't real?

[kickerofdoom]

The oxygen sensor are like 50 each so 4 of them about 200 for a set of them.

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Originally Posted by berry21

Why do you say that the code isn't real?

Well the Ford codes say for the most part p0456 the zero is part of the number and i looked it up in a code book I can't find it. The guy put the info wrong into the scanner wrong

[berry21]

So I've disconnected the battery for 20 min and then reconnected it and took it for a drive. Drove 11 miles, turned it off, turned it back on, drove 0.2 miles and then the light kicked back in. I was watching the light extra carefully. lol

Sooo, I think I might just have to take it to a Ford dealer...

[kickerofdoom]

Do a full tune up

[1slosix]

Originally Posted by Randl114

Be carefull about code readers. Autozone and Advance want to sell you stuff. Often times when an oxygen sensor code appears it is due to other things, not really that the sensor is bad it is just doing its job. If you are also throwing a MAF code that has the ability to trigger a O2 code. The car can run lean or rich and it cause a O2 code, just be carefull. I would take it to somebody that not only read but understand the codes.

i can tell you that im a manager for an Advance and when it comes to code readings i don't make a comission if you buy stuff or not. i'm getting the same pay if you need a part or not. some weeks we sell more then others and guess what. I still get the same hours and pay week after week. Now at Orielys they have comission on certain products so this may be the case there

---------- Post added at 04:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:04 PM ----------

Originally Posted by berry21

So I've disconnected the battery for 20 min and then reconnected it and took it for a drive. Drove 11 miles, turned it off, turned it back on, drove 0.2 miles and then the light kicked back in. I was watching the light extra carefully. lol

Sooo, I think I might just have to take it to a Ford dealer...

you have to do a full drive cycle...it'll kick in and out during that time. even with the o2 non fouler trick it'll do the same thing until the cycle is complete. don't spend dealer cash until you finish it ok

[berry21]

Originally Posted by 1slosix

i can tell you that im a manager for an Advance and when it comes to code readings i don't make a comission if you buy stuff or not. i'm getting the same pay if you need a part or not. some weeks we sell more then others and guess what. I still get the same hours and pay week after week. Now at Orielys they have comission on certain products so this may be the case there

---------- Post added at 04:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:04 PM ----------



you have to do a full drive cycle...it'll kick in and out during that time. even with the o2 non fouler trick it'll do the same thing until the cycle is complete. don't spend dealer cash until you finish it ok

Ok thanks. But will the light just go off after the full cycle or will I have to have it clear again?

[1slosix]

If the problem is fixed then itll just stay off...if its still on have it retested and see if the code is the same

[berry21]

Sooo, I kinda feel like an idiot... lol

I ended up taking it to Aamco and they took a look at it. It was the O2 sensors, I just happened to replace the wrong ones when I did the work. The one that needed replacing was SUPER hard to see and find without a lift, which is probably why I missed it. Good thing I took it in, or else I wouldn't have been able to do the work in such a tight space with just a pair of ramps... $92 well spent to have my baby running good again

[1slosix]

Lol well mistakes happen...good thing you got it fixed. Im surprised you didnt trip more codes since you swapped the monitors with o2 sensors. So do you own a set of ramps?

[berry21]

Originally Posted by 1slosix

Lol well mistakes happen...good thing you got it fixed. Im surprised you didnt trip more codes since you swapped the monitors with o2 sensors. So do you own a set of ramps?

Yea, tell me about it... lol I do have my now set of ramps. Why?

[1slosix]

Originally Posted by berry21

Yea, tell me about it... lol I do have my now set of ramps. Why?

just makes lifting a car easier for fixing things like that lol...although you want to talk tight fit...try changing out the mid pipe on a GT lol. the install is hell on your knuckles