what "exactly" do you need to do a body drop? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-13-2003, 02:42 AM   #1
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what "exactly" do you need to do a body drop?

Ok, so i read the how to on dropping w/ springs, but, my question is this...

could someone reply w/ what I'd need if I wanted to drop my car 1-1.25 inches?

Do i just need to buy the springs that say they're for dropping it?

some people said I'd need new struts? new shocks? i don't know what I'd need, but, just to clear this up for me, assuming I want to drop the car 1.25 inches, could someone give me their recommendations for "all" the items I'd need?
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Old 11-13-2003, 06:04 AM   #2
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You dont need anything but springs But most people want to improve performance and get struts and shocks at the same time. If you just want a drop for appearances then you just need to have springs.

The one thing people dont really research is the type of spring and that is a big mistake. People throw alot of names around but what and how you want the car to ride is critical in the decision making. Do you want the ride to be like stock or do you want a firmer ride. some springs are to soft and others are to stiff and cause a really harsh ride. Some people buy racing springs and they were never designed to be on daliy drivers.

So not only drop but spring rate is equally important the higher the spring rate the more force it takes to move it. to low of a spring rate and a 1.5 - 2.0 drop and you wil be slapping the ground. here is a list of spring rates to chose from

SPRING FRONT REAR
1999 Cobra....................... 500 470
2000 Cobra "R"................. 800 750
2001 Cobra....................... 500 470
H&R, 99-01 cobra w/IRS
(except convertible)............700-760 685 (!)
H&R, 99-01 cobra
convertible, Super Sport......700-760 685 (!)
H&R, 99-01 cobra
convertible, Race..............750-850 770 (!)
Stock GT.......................... 400-500 165-265
Stock 94-95 Cobra........... 400 160
Stock 96-98 Cobra........... 400-505 165-265
Eibach ProKit cpe.1.5"...... 460-570 200-250
Eibach ProKit vert.1.5"...... 460-570 170-310
Eibach Sport...................... 660 260
Eibach Race...................... 700-850 200-260
FMS "B"........................... 425-530 200-300
FMS "C"........................... 650 200-230
FRPP "R".......................... 700-850 200-260
H&R Sport 1.5"................ 500-575 250-285
H&R Supersport 1.5"........ 700-760 275-300
H&R Race........................ 750 265
H&R Superrace................. 1020 300
Suspension Tech Street...... 725 230
Suspension Tech Comp..... 850 280
Steeda Sport 1.25"............ 650 200-250
Steeda Comp/St 1.25"....... 700-850 250
Steeda Full Comp 1.35"..... 850-1050 ???
Global West 1.0"............... 800 160
Global West Drag 1.0"....... 680 160
Global West Comp 1.0"..... 1000 160
Griggs coil-overs................ 350 to 500 +50.175 no TA
Griggs coil-overs................ 225 w TA + panhard
Dech Speeddrive 1.5"........ 1000-1200 210-280
Jamex 1.5"......................... 450-550 170-220
MAC................................ 600,680,700,800,925 160,170,190,215
Mac progressives............... 450-520 200-230
Saleen (Eibach ProKit?)..... 460-570 200-250
Kenny Brown 1.5"............. 650 ???
Roush (FRPP "R"?)........... ??? ???
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Old 11-13-2003, 10:35 AM   #3
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hey corey, what did our stock springs come in 95 at? I get this horrible "bottoming out" sensation when i hit a big bump... im not hitting the bottom of my car, my springs just run out of spring and it makes a huge thud noise... it hurts just listening to it. With the C springs will that get rid of that?
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Old 11-13-2003, 11:35 AM   #4
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Well Mike it is like this worn out springs tend to sag a little, does you car seam a little low for stock and the other thing it sounds like you have tired and worn out struts and shocks. They really regulate by dampening the movement of the car. It is the job of the struts and spring to soften the blow by reducing the shock and bounce when you hit a pothole. so to me the shocks and struts got to go.

If they are original they lived for 8 years and that is pretty good for a mustang
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:50 PM   #5
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yeah my whole suspension is original...
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:17 PM   #6
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I have an 02 and when I have two friends in the back seat it does the same thing. When I put lowering springs on it, will it do this more?
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:21 PM   #7
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With higher rate springs there will be less squat when people get in your car
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:23 PM   #8
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Ha ok. Just curious on that one. Hm..may be a good excuse to spend the money...
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:27 PM   #9
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HAHHAHAHHAHAHHAHAA
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:30 PM   #10
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Well I always have to make up something to say why I did it...tint windows to keep the interior cooler...stuff like that lol. Seems to work pretty well. I may hit the rents up and see if they'll buy springs...be the first thing they ever payed for on any of my cars...hm. Just an idea. I need to call them anyways, keep forgetting
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Old 11-13-2003, 11:57 PM   #11
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned this, but I'm going to have to disagree with "musts" for lowering a car. Shorter endlinks suited to the new ride height are needed to lower the front sway bar so that it is parallel to the ground again. It will help with handling a noticeable amount, and at 14-20$, it's definitely worth it.

www.maximummotorsports.com go there and look for front end suspension stuff and get some appropriate sized endlinks.

If your car is older you should get new spring isolators. go to ebay or maxmotors for then. They will run you about 45 or so but they are needed to keep the springs from touching the metal and keeping them from squeeking.
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Old 11-14-2003, 06:21 AM   #12
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Well V6PowerStang the question was never mentioned but that is good info to share !!!!
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Old 01-09-2004, 05:04 PM   #13
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Very good info. I have shortened end links, caster/camber plates, new spring isolators to go on when I swap out the front springs again, already have them on the rear ones, they are polyeurathane, I think they are better personally than the stock Ford rubber isolators. I advise anyone lowering to get good caster/camber plates, they say you don't HAVE to have them unless you go over an inch and a half, but you can get better alignments if you do, I think they are worth the bucks.
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Old 01-10-2004, 04:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZimStang
hey corey, what did our stock springs come in 95 at? I get this horrible "bottoming out" sensation when i hit a big bump... im not hitting the bottom of my car, my springs just run out of spring and it makes a huge thud noise... it hurts just listening to it. With the C springs will that get rid of that?
Mines does the same. My dad actually said he wants to lift the car up now. :
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Old 01-10-2004, 07:52 AM   #15
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lifting will only make the car even more unbearable. you will end up getting the tuna boat flop like big cars in the 70's did just floating and wobbling down the road. If your shocks, struts and springs have seen better days they are in need of replacement. JUST DO IT

C springs $110
Bullitt or Mach 1 shocks and struts $190

You can get much cheaper or better quality for the price. And anyone who doubls the performance level of this setup need to visit me and let me take you for a spin in my car at my proving grounds HHEHEHEHHE Just ask Rick or Paul !!!!!!
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Old 01-10-2004, 01:39 PM   #16
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Oh good gawd, don't do it unless have good nerves, hahaha, he will scare the crap out you guys!! He is a good driver though, missed his calling, I think he could have done well on the Formula 1 or Trans Am race circuits. I let him take my GT through there too, whoooooheeee, what a rush, lol.
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Old 01-10-2004, 01:41 PM   #17
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btw, fordpartsnetwork.com has the MachI tokico shock and strut setup on a sale right now for 179.
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Old 01-10-2004, 06:37 PM   #18
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I should let him. Let him drive it to work like that and when I come home see him out there with the tourch cutting the springs.

(It's joke. Not being serious. )
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