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Old 11-14-2012, 11:56 PM   #1
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Lowering Springs?

I want to know any suggestions on lowering springs. I know some like Eibach are pricey but heard there pretty good too?
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:08 AM   #2
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depends what you want out of the car....a decent riding DD? an autox/corner carver? a drag car? different springs compliment different routes.
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:34 AM   #3
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How much of a drop you want
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:19 AM   #4
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Daily driver. Just to make the car lower cause looks funny how it is.
Looking for about 1.5 inches any lower than 2 and car will start scraping everywhere for sure. Kinda wanted the ones where its like 1.5 inches in front and 1.25 in rear for an aggressive look

---------- Post added at 01:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:16 AM ----------

Would some of those eBay ones work? I heard some are just so cheap your car feels all bouncy.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:55 AM   #5
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Just cut your springs then....to achieve the drop you want its easy. 1.25 coils off the front and 1 coil off the back. Leave isolators..or pull them for another 1/4" drop on average. Youll have a decent driving DD and youll still have cash to put in another mod.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
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How much of a drop you want
off topic but venomouz did you paint your roof by yourself or get that professionally done?
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:59 AM   #7
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off topic but venomouz did you paint your roof by yourself or get that professionally done?
I did it myself which we used dip. And for my brothers we wrapped it in 3m gloss rap
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:03 AM   #8
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so the question is........whose looks better?
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:11 AM   #9
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Lol I like the wrap because it was shiny. Mine was matte black and it depends what you want glossy or matte. Plus I spent about 18 bucks and he like 70
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:17 AM   #10
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Here seems to be a good guide on how to cut the stock springs:

The Complete How To Cut Your Stock Springs Thread - SVTPerformance

I plan on cutting mine when I can afford to get some new wheels. Looking to get some 18" black saleen style, but thats a ways off. I'll probably just do 1 coil, dont want to have to worry about scrapping my chin spoiler on speed bumps or entering parking lots.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:42 PM   #11
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Thank you for the guide. And I got my rims off cruizinconcepts.com There replicas but some are very good price. Mine came out to 420 all 4 including tax. I was looking for the saleen also bit the original were like 700. Outrageous Lol
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:13 AM   #12
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I bought the SR springs off American muscle and i got like 1.75 drop and they were 99 bucks
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:18 AM   #13
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Was that purchase recent?
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:46 AM   #14
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Quick reference information to assist in decision making.
Ford Mustang (94-04).
BACK FRONT (lbs/in)
FRPP:
B- 425/530 200/300
C- 650 200/300
F- 460/570 170/310
G- 460/570 200/250
BBK:
650 250
Steeda:
650 250
Eibach Pro Kit:
456/570 200/251
Eibach Sportline:
425/550 200/251
H&R Sport:
490/575 250/285
H&R Race:
750/850 260/280
Vogtland:
440 552
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:16 PM   #15
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I'm sorry but I'm not highly knowledgable with some things. What is the information for?
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:43 PM   #16
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If cutting the stock ones, how would you measure the amount of coil needed to take off for the drop I want?
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Old 11-17-2012, 04:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I bought the SR springs off American muscle and i got like 1.75 drop and they were 99 bucks
About two months ago I bought them
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:25 AM   #18
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There actually like 160 now I think. Will any eBay ones any good? Don't have much money right now
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:13 AM   #19
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I'm sorry but I'm not highly knowledgable with some things. What is the information for?
-Spring Rates, Front & rear.
Spring Rate is the amount of weight needed to compress a spring a certain . Springs are rated in LB/in (in metric system kg/mm), or specifically, how many pounds of weight are required to depress the spring by one inch. To convert LB/in to kg/mm international, you must divide divide figure by 56.

Consider you have 2 springs having different spring rates: One with 345 g/mm and the other with 480 g/mm. So what does it mean?

It means the 1st spring will compress 1 mm if you put a load of 345 grams, while the 2nd one will not. The 2nd one will need a 480 g. load to compress 1 mm. According to this, we can say that the 2nd spring is harder than the 1st one, or we can state that:

Springs that have a low Spring Rate are soft, while springs that have a high Spring Rate are stiffer.



If there are 2 different values listed, it means that the spring starts at one rate, and ends at another rate under full compression.

For example: a 10lb to 25lb progressive spring will need 10lb to compress it the first inch, then 13lb the next inch, and so on, until the end of the travel; it will take 25lb to compress it the last inch. The benefit of this is that the spring can be soft enough at the start of the travel to offer a soft ride yet be stiff enough at the end of the travel to performance well during hard braking and turning.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:30 AM   #20
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If cutting the stock ones, how would you measure the amount of coil needed to take off for the drop I want?
Typically it's one full spring off of the fronts and one half off of the rears. Stock shocks do not typically last very long once lowered. Also, you can run out of camber and need caster camber plates. Another thing to remember is that unless it's specified made for a V6, then you have to take into account that the V6 is 100lbs lighter up front than the V8. Meaning you won't get as much of a drop up front. Rear springs (spring rates) are a good barometer as to final ride comfort.-Alot of research, money, and hours of hard labor go into getting a suspension that gives you a safe, superior ride and handling. Once all of the parts are on, expect to take it to a speed shop or a Mustang shop to get it properly aligned. I destroyed a set of front tires within 45 miles before getting it to the shop for alignment. *I also chose to go with "Fox Body" springs/shocks, which is another option.
**My part list FYI: Lowering springs, shocks/struts, caster camber plates (4 bolt), bumpsteer kit, & X-2 Balljoints.
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Old 11-18-2012, 10:05 AM   #21
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My recommendation would be to do what the fad was 5-6 years ago. Find someone that carries the ford racing bullitt/mach 1 suspension system. Substitute ford c springs and have a well put together kit.

They include shocks/struts, springs and front and rear sway bars. Add c/c plates and a pair of subframe connectors and you'll be driving a much different car.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:53 PM   #22
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I think going with cutting the stock springs would be an easier way for me. And plus save me some money for any further mods on my car
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:33 PM   #23
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I wouldn't trust an off brand, Chinese/eBay spring. The springs could possibly be different lengths or rates, both equating to a terrible ride. If you cut your springs use the money to buy cc plates.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:15 PM   #24
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+1
An alignment too!
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:05 PM   #25
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Those are caster camber plates right? What are those for?
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:59 PM   #26
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Caster camber plates will make it possible to realign your tires after you lower your car. If you don't get cc plates and lower your car, your tires will be tilted out on the top and in on the bottom. Cc plates go on the inside of your engine bay where your strut connects to, and moves the strut left and right forward an backward to align the tires perfectly.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:59 PM   #27
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Is there a certain type of cc plates needed? They don't have stock ones already in them do they?
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:02 AM   #28
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you only need C&C plates if you plan to drop past 1.5"...anywhere before that your can get away without them. in fact i leave my camber at about a -2 when i lower it because i'm into corners. and to answer your question no you don't have them from factory
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:52 PM   #29
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I only plan on dropping it about probably nit even 1.5 about 1.25 in front cause of my chin spoiler and at most 1.5 in back
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:58 PM   #30
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Might be small gamble.
-Consider saving the cash to do it the right way. Cutting the springs to eliminate the 4X4 look is understandable but it may worsen drive-ability.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:54 PM   #31
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So it'd be better to lower it evenly?
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:02 PM   #32
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Slight rake or even, doesn't matter so much. It's the drive-ability/saftey aspect to consider. You can drop it 1.5" safely with an alignment, but expect the possibility of bumpsteer.
-**-Many people don’t understand what bumpsteer is and what sort of affect it has on a car’s handling. Bumpsteer is when your wheels steer themselves as they travel up and down in their suspension range. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps in the road or track. When the rear tires on your car move up and down in their normal suspension travel, the rear toe setting changes. This is not efficient and it unnecessarily scrubs speed and wears tires. It also gives you the uneasy feeling you don’t have control of your car.This is of particular importance if you've lowered your car with aftermarket lowering springs or coil-overs. A lowered car that is not bumpsteered will be a downright ill handling car!
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:16 PM   #33
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I only plan on dropping it about probably nit even 1.5 about 1.25 in front cause of my chin spoiler and at most 1.5 in back
so be safe and cut 1 coil all the way around...leave the Isolators...if you decide you want it a little lower pull them. on average it's a 1/4" drop just pulling them
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:56 PM   #34
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A custom shop is charging me 80 to mount and balance my new wheels and cut my stock springs and lower the car about 1.25. Good price?
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:12 PM   #35
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i don't think i could trust someone to cut my springs for me unless they have done it on other mustangs, or their own...how are they cutting them? will they let you watch. do they know what needs to be removed to make your car sit 1.25" lower?
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