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Old 01-26-2013, 06:04 AM   #106
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Then the setup ill have will be two cats fabbed h-p flow tens and tips... Just gotta get my income tax and ill post a video when I get it done... Shocks will be in next week and ill post a pic when I get them on

---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:51 PM ----------

If you don't mind Robb tell me the piping exactly how it should be dobe
When they start the work, the outlet pipe leaving the first catalytic converter will be 2.25" pipe. Run a piece of 2.25" pipe on both sides after the cat down to the "H" pipe which will be 2.5". Connect catback or run 2.5" pipe separately to the mufflers, then the tailpipes out and over the axle. Tips optional.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:43 AM   #107
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Anybody know why the V6 cats are much larger than the GTs?
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:57 AM   #108
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Aight and you don't think it will sound bad with the back two cats off ?
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:28 AM   #109
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Aight and you don't think it will sound bad with the back two cats off ?
It sounds great. But your check engine light will come on
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:37 AM   #110
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Not to worried bout that
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:26 PM   #111
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On that front strut tower brace is there suppose to be a bend on the right side bar?
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:37 PM   #112
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On that front strut tower brace is there suppose to be a bend on the right side bar?
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:17 PM   #113
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On that front strut tower brace is there suppose to be a bend on the right side bar?
some do some dont...the bend can help clear the intake...having it or not having it wont effect it's function..mine has it but since i don't use a CAI it's kinda pointless lol

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Old 01-26-2013, 10:59 PM   #114
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Good I got it today and the rear sway bar for 50 just got get bolts to put them two on springs come in weds anxious for them
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:27 PM   #115
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Get grade 8 bolts and nuts
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:23 PM   #116
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Tht for both sway bar and strut brace?
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:32 PM   #117
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Tht for both sway bar and strut brace?
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:00 PM   #118
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i would...you want a good strong bolt and nut holding them down
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:50 PM   #119
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Might be a dumb question but how many holes did you actually have to drill slo for the strut brace? And do you just use a bit... And if so did you just use a bolt and nut to tighten the brace down or one of the clips that has ridges to put a bolt through then put a nut on?
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:28 PM   #120
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for my eibach i only had to drill 4 holes...for a 94-95 GT brace i think i did 6....and i just used grade 8 bolts and nuts nothing else
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:37 PM   #121
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Could I still do the lowering springs with 18s on the back I'm trying to get these rims... They are 17s on front 18s on the back from what I'm told
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:34 AM   #122
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Could I still do the lowering springs with 18s on the back I'm trying to get these rims... They are 17s on front 18s on the back from what I'm told
Yes. Rim size doesn't matter. When tire size in back gets up to 315's, some get rub, some don't.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:19 AM   #123
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Whats the diameter of those rear tires....might wanna measure that before purchase just to make sure you arent gonna need a recal
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:45 PM   #124
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The rims are called drifz y'all ever heard of them?
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:51 PM   #125
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From what I have found on the Internet the 18s are 18*8 an the 17s are 17*7.5
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:45 AM   #126
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From what I have found on the Internet the 18s are 18*8 an the 17s are 17*7.5
He means the overall height of the wheel and tire. If you change that, then your speedometer and consequently your odometer will be off and will require recalibration.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:23 PM   #127
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yeah pony got it....you may still be in the same diameter as a stock setup safe zone so no big deal...but if you're taller then you're gonna want a recal
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:13 PM   #128
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Recal? Soiry not very smart sometimes
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:51 PM   #129
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recalibration
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:57 PM   #130
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Oo.. Did you use an air compressor to drill the hole for the strut brace?
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:13 PM   #131
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no just a hand drill
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:14 PM   #132
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Just use just about any type of drill you have, I can drill good bolts with my 18v drill, but an air drill or something bigger than 18v cant hurt.

Just put it in place, and mark the hole spots with a marker or something, and have at it. Real simple once you get it started.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:31 PM   #133
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I couldn't get it to go through earlier today but I wasn't putting alot of pressure on the drill.. Just afraid it will go through fast and hit the strut or something on the backside... I got the plastic part cut and the back holes drilled
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:45 PM   #134
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Dont be afraid youll be fine. Use a metal drill bit then get to drilling again
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:59 PM   #135
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The tokico blues are still like 400 for a set where do you get yours slo
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:41 PM   #136
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i didn't buy tokicos...i'm running sensatracs on the back and gabriels are going on the front. i'm sticking the left over cash else where
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:16 PM   #137
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How much do those run?
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:11 AM   #138
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it was $31 a piece for the rears and the fronts are around $80
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:36 AM   #139
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If you want them cheaper order them off the Internet and look for promo codes... I got both my shocks for like 46 of advance auto with a promo code.. And my struts for like 136 off auto zone with a promo code

---------- Post added at 02:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 AM ----------

On another note how much of the ends do I need to tape beens I'm not using the iso's and do I need to do both ends?
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:15 PM   #140
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I couldn't be any happier with the sets of Fox Body KYB shocks/struts I have been using.
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