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Old 08-23-2009, 11:45 PM   #1
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How to stop noisy lifter?

I have a 1999 Mustang with a 3.8 liter, and it has a very noisy problem. I believe that it is a noisy lifter, because the noise comes the heads not the exhaust. So, I am pretty sure that it is not an exhaust leak. How should I get the lifter to quiet? And are there anymore possible problems that it could be?
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Old 08-24-2009, 12:40 AM   #2
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How to stop noisy lifter?

This is a very simple problem with a very simple cause. You have been using cheap oil that has sludged up inside your hydraulic lifters. The simple solution is to de-sludge your engine and use either Mobil One, Pennzoil Platinum, or ELF oil from France. They each have a special oil made JUST for FORD products. I prefer the 0W-30 oil from Mobil One. To clean things out, use Seafoam or Amsoil Crankcase Cleaner. These contain a solvent that will dislodge the offending sludge in your valve train, and promote oil pump health by cleaning out the oil pressure relief valve. Once installed, the crankcase cleaner should stop the noise in 20-30 minutes. Good luck!! STOP using quicky lube oils or any regular dino based oils!
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Old 08-24-2009, 01:07 AM   #3
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How to stop noisy lifter?

Can it be done?

Can you do it? I don't know.
Go buy a repair manual and see if it something you can do.

The simplest way to adjust a hydraulic or solid lifter cam, whether it is a tappet or roller cam, is described below. But FIRST, you need to forget about is all that information that many individuals (and books) have taught you in the past. In many cases, if interpreted wrong, you could be in for more trouble than before you tried to adjust the valves in the first place. Think about those things that can affect your valve lash, because you will need this bit of common sense before you get into this. There are other considerations besides just putting a wrench on something and attempting to follow the cam card, shop manual, or the advice of some friend or relative.
What type of cam are you running? (Hydraulic, Solid, Hydraulic Roller, Solid Roller, Mushroom Tappet)
Are you running aluminum heads?
Are ALL of your valvetrain parts in proper working condition?
Are your valve springs the correct ones for the camshaft and operating RPM?
What type of driving (or racing) are you going to be using the engine for?
Do you have the tools and basic knowledge required to adjust your own valves?
The last one above is quite important. If after you read through this and are still a bit confused, please ask for help or have someone else do it. In the least you can have someone knowledgeable walk you through it to make sure you understand the procedure. If you are wondering what can go wrong, I have provided the short list below as to a few bad things that can occur:
Poor running engine and low performance
Failed smog testing (if this is a smog-legal street driven vehicle)
Burnt exhaust valve(s)
Broken valvetrain components (springs, pushrods, lifters, camshaft)
Limited lifespan of valvetrain components
Excessive valve guide and valve seat wear
Blown up engine
Lose an important Race!
Empty or put a substantial dent in your bank account
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