lowerng springs

[02mach6stang]

do you need camber plates if you use the eibach lowering springs? if so what is a better set up with struts and shocks

[sonicpony03]

I think they're recommended to make alignment easier.
If you are looking to replace struts, springs, etc., you may want to look into a bullit suspension set. They run about 550 dollars, and have everything.

[Zim]

Originally Posted by 02mach6stang

do you need camber plates if you use the eibach lowering springs? if so what is a better set up with struts and shocks

You dont need them, but they're cheaper than premature new tires because of bad wear patterns. Shocks and struts are also a good idea, the stock ones aren't built for the different spring rate and will wear out quicker. IMO just do it once and be done with it. Do it right the first time :yup:

[SpectorV]

in order to make a 94-04 stang look good with a drop you will have to drop it to a point where CC plates are needed, some cars stock need them... its not like they are made of gold. They are only about 220 bucks or so (maximum motorsport 4 bolt... do not even think about getting any other brand)

what rate are the eiback springs, what drop, what do you want out of the car looks or performance or a mix? etc etc.

[SimplyOrange]

upr makes several good cc plates.

[Zim]

Originally Posted by SimplyOrangeTPS

upr makes several good cc plates.

That's not true.

[SimplyOrange]

why not?? i ran the 3 bolt aluminum. for 2 years then when i went to coilover, i switched to 4 bolt steel. havent had a problem yet...considering im a upr dealer and have sold and installed hundreds of sets and have never recieved a phone call from my local alignment guy.one of our customers carried the front tires 40 ft before dropping it, and nothing happened to the plates, they are pretty stout.

[Zim]

The 4 bolts are ok, however the three bolts I would never recommend for exactly the reason you just said... They're aluminum. Aluminum bends waaaayy to easily to ever find me putting it on a high stress area like that.

I just assume fork up the extra few bucks and buy a set of max motorsports... it doesn't really get any better than them.

[SimplyOrange]

the 4 bolts are almost identical to the mm, the aluminum ones are ok, the spring tke most of the load, there isnt as much pressure as people think, i talked to james about them in the past and he has never had a set come back broken. we test all of the products we sell, the aluminums held up to our 450rwhp 96 cobra launching with all weight off the suspension then dropping the nose and never bent or anything.we upgraded it tho when we went coilover because with coilovers, all of the weight is riding on the cc plate.all of the cc plates have alot of r&d behind them but its really up to the customer.

[SpectorV]

maximum motorsports blows UPR's cc plates out of the water in quality and adjustment from what ive seen from UPR. If they get the job done and they are enough cheaper and you dont care go for it. 189.00 isnt to much to pay for me to have really good CC plates IMO and they come with a lifetime warranty and nearly twice the adjustment of any other plate on the market. The true test of the mm 4 bolt cc plates are on a coil over setup, until then you can get by with any other company, they all do the same basic thing..MM's just have more adjustment and are better quality~ if you dont plan on running a coil over setup you can get by with others. Once you go with coil overs I wouldnt trust any other company. Some other brands have caused major failure with coil overs~ i know for a fact granatelli (spelling..) has had major issues with their coil overs wearing holes in the strut towers and they just recently decided to fix it....

[SimplyOrange]

maximum


upr


if you cant get the adjustment you need with the upr, your car is wrecked and hasnt been fixed yet. i think the mm plates are very nice but they are no better than the upr. design wise,the upr is a little more failsafe because its adjustment plate is under the stationary so it wont pop the bolts due to stress.as far as strength, i guarantee the mm plates are no more stronger than the upr because they are both made from the same thickness plate with the same material specs.even the same grade and size mounting bolts. but for the purpose of this thread, any cc plate will work because hes not running coilovers on the front. i know people running mid 7s with the upr set-up with no problems.

[chris7869]

Why would someone choose to go with a coil over versus not going with one?

I want to drop mine but I hear anything over an inch requires cc plates so I've been hesitent untill I do more research. I dont want it on the floor, just much closer to the tire edge, what's that 2-3 inches?

[02mach6stang]

well if i have to use camber plates what other (manufacturer) springs will give me a lower more controlled ride

[02mach6stang]

also what do you think about the bbk lowering kit with everything from brothersperformance.com

[SimplyOrange]

ive heard some people complain about the bbk kit, not the springs, just the other items, i like the eibachs ride and control personally.

[1234]

which kit do you have from eibach?

[SimplyOrange]

in this pic i have eibach prokit with no isolators

[SimplyOrange]

kyle on here has my old kit, lemme search for his pics

[1234]

nice, sexy, badass, first 3 words that come to mind

[SimplyOrange]

Originally Posted by 1234

nice, sexy, badass, first 3 words that come to mind

thanks, my car aint too bad either...j/k

here is what they look like on kyles car, since then we put a qa1 kmember and its even lower now. pretty sick looking

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/t32034/

[1234]

Badass lookin as well

[SpectorV]

those upr's look much better than the ones I have seen so they should do the job quite well. MM has just been proven longer to be of higher quality~ UPR has had some ups and downs. Overall those new design cc plates from upr look good to me. Glad you posted the pics of them.

Does the camber plat flip for more camber/less as the mm does (this is what gives it the ability for more adjustment than the other plates on the market)

[SimplyOrange]

yea it can be reverse, to give you a little more. but they are plenty adjustable, i had my coilovers all the way down with the soft springs, and could get positive camber i was like "damn!" actually, the red car that has my springs on it now has my old aluminum cc plates, and they adjusted fine.

[Scut95]

im running the UPR 4 bolt CC plates and love them, no problems what so ever

[Kyle]

if you replace the k member i recommend getting cc plates that have more adjustment than the upr's.........jarrod had to modify a couple things in order to get an alignment with the upr's due to lack of adjustability. its fine now but it took a little engineering.

this is the final result





its about 1/2 inch lower than just using the eibach pro kit (less than a 1 finger gap between tire and fender). looked badass but i have since thrown in the top isolators and got another 1/4 inch higher b/c i kept slamming the flanges on the x pipe on the highway. its kinda funny hearing that you threw a shower of sparks when you slam the flanges at 70, but i didnt feel like replacing anything, so it was only funny a few times

[gdcpony]

Originally Posted by chris7869

Why would someone choose to go with a coil over versus not going with one?

I want to drop mine but I hear anything over an inch requires cc plates so I've been hesitent untill I do more research. I dont want it on the floor, just much closer to the tire edge, what's that 2-3 inches?

I have done both springs in stock location, and coilovers, and will never do stock again. First, adjustability- I can move the ride height in a few minutes if I choose. Second, weight- You can find different numbers depending on the options, but I weighed my '00's at 8# per corner lighter than the stock set up. Of course, soon after I did the K-mem and A-arms too. I just didn't have time before a trip to do it all at once. Third, easier to work on- I never needed to compress a spring again, and could swap them in about 15min without needing a new alignment. Fourth, Spring rate- You have more choices for less cost, and it takes less of a spring to do the same job because they are farther out on the control arm.
The negative side is the reduced travel, but it never bothered me much. I rarely bottomed out. Just make sure you have a bump stop in. And of course it costs more when you figure in the back too. But once done I never looked back.
Yes, you will need a set of 4 bolt C/C plates, but whether Steeda or MM or UPR, I really doubt it matters too much. One other part I would get with coilovers though is a strut tower brace since all your weight will be trying to flex them.
I can't wait till I have the money to do it all over again now that I have another 'Stang!!! As far as my old setup, it was Steeda C/C plates, strut tower brace, and a D&D K-mem kit. I had (still have most of them) 400, 375, and 425# springs for the front. I found the 375's worked best for my driving style with the stock brakes, and 400's for some reason with the Cobra brakes, but that could be just my driving. I also ran a Steeda front and rear bar set and in the end a torque arm/ panyard bar rear setup with 200# rear springs.

[SimplyOrange]

the reason kyle ran out of adustment was because the qa1 k member pushes the tires out an extra 1/2" with the factory lower controlarms. on a stock car, ive never had a problem with them not having enough adjustment.

full upr kit & sno performace srut tower brace, 14"-150 rate springs let it lift high and put the weight on the rear tires.i have no complaints at all