I just started this tonight, its obviously not done yet, i still have to add another couple pictures in there... but i wanted to post this so if anyone had anything to add to it, they could. Here we go
Installing a Ford EFI NX nitrous
Ok, the main reason for writing this article up is because I went looking everywhere for the information I’m going to put in this. First off, this was installed on a 1995 3.8L mustang. The year of your mustang DOES make a difference on some parts of installation. Be sure to follow your instructions included with your nitrous kit to be sure everything is being done correctly.
The first step should be mounting your bottle and running your main N2O line to your engine bay. I mounted my bottle brackets onto a piece of plywood so I could easily remove the bottle if I choose. You can also mount it directly into the trunk of your car by drilling through the sheet metal in your trunk. If you choose to mount the bottle this way, BE CARFUL!! There are other things under that sheet metal (such as your fuel tank) that you DO NOT want to drill into. Always check to make sure you are not drilling into anything that’s going to cause damage to your car.
After the bottle has been mounted, it’s time to run your main N2O line. When running this line, be sure that there is not going to be any extreme pressure put on the steel line that will cause kinks and extreme bends in the line. This can cause problems with your nitrous system in the future. When running your N2O line, you are faced with a couple choices: 1.) Running your nitrous line inside your cabin, or 2.) Running your nitrous line under your car outside of your cabin. A lot of people will suggest running it underneath your car, however I chose to run it through my car. I ran the line underneath the rear seat, and removed the door sills to allow me to hid the line under the carpet on the passenger side of the car. From here, I ran the line through the firewall into my engine compartment. NOTE: There is more then one hole pre-drilled in your firewall. One exists above your gas and brake pedal, the other is behind your glove compartment. The hole behind the glove compartment I found to be a lot more difficult to find, so I decided to go through the hole by my pedals. There is a rubber stopper in the hole, just pop that out and run you line through that.
Once you have your main nitrous line run, its time to start mounting your solenoids. The kit comes with 2 solenoids. One solenoid is your fuel solenoid, and the other is your nitrous solenoid. It is important that you find an area to mount these that they will not be damaged by moving engine parts, will have sufficient hood clearance, and will have enough slack in the nitrous lines to meet together at the shark nozzle. I chose to mount my Nitrous solenoid right up next to the firewall as you can see here:
As you can see, there are two solenoids there. The larger of the two is the nitrous solenoid, the smaller one is the purge solenoid (optional aftermarket option). Don’t worry about the purge, Ill explain the installation of that in another write-up. As you can see, the main nitrous line feeds in on the left side of the solenoid, the hose coming out of the bottom of the solenoid is going to go directly to the shark nozzle included with the nitrous kit. You’ll notice that there are 2 wires that are attached to the solenoid. One of these wires (it doesn’t matter which one) needs to be grounded to the frame of your car. The other wire will need to be connected to the GREEN wire from your relay. I will include a wiring diagram later in write-up, so just hold tight, all that will be explained.
Once your nitrous solenoid is securely fastened, move onto the fuel solenoid. Once again, be sure to mount the solenoid where it will not be hit by the hood or be in the way of moving engine parts. This picture shows where I put my fuel solenoid:
That is mounted on my densecharger bolt that holds itself to the MAF. As you can see, its at a rather interesting angle. It doesn’t matter what angle these solenoids are mounted at, all that matters is the hosing can reach to the nozzle. Like on the nitrous solenoid, there are also 2 wires attached to the fuel solenoid, once again one wire needs to be grounded (does NOT matter which one) while the other needs to be attached to THE SAME GREEN WIRE as your nitrous solenoid. BE SURE THESE ARE BOTH SPLICED INTO THE SAME GREEN WIRE THAT GOES TO YOUR RELAY. Once you have mounted the solenoid, attach your MAIN fuel line (the #4 connector, or in lamens terms “The Big One”) to the IN side of your fuel solenoid. Attached the size #3 fuel line to your fuel solenoid OUT side. Congratulations! Your solenoids have been put on your car.
Next you’ll need to install your wide open throttle (WOT) switch. This switch is VERY important as it will not allow nitrous to be injected into your engine without your engine working hard. Basically, there is no right or wrong place to put your WOT switch. Just be sure that the switch is pushed in when your throttle is fully engaged. This is where I put mine:
I know it’s hard to tell exactly how that’s attached, but there is no right or wrong way to do it. Just find a place that allows the switch to be triggered when under full throttle (when your accelerator pedal is floored). BE SURE THAT IT IS NOT ENGAGED UNTIL YOU ARE AT FULL THROTTLE. By not taking caution on this step, serious damage can occur to your engine.
Now that your WOT switch is installed, you can move on to tapping into your fuel rail. This is where your nitrous system will get its fuel source from to mix with the n2O in the shark nozzle. As you can see in the picture above, the nitrous line with the red connector is in the correct place where you want to tap into your fuel rail. This step was one that caused me the most problems. You may be asking yourself, “well what the heck is a fuel rail” or “Ok great, I see the fuel rail, but where the heck to I screw that thing on to”. Well, I’m going to tell you. Your fuel rail is a shiny chrome piece of metal that 3 of your injectors are connected to. There are 2 fuel rails on the v6, the one you’re looking for is the one on the left (looking at your engine from the front of the car). You’ll see a plastic cover sticking up on that fuel rail that covers your shrader valve. You’ll want to remove that black plastic cap, and then remove that metal piece that is screwed into your fuel rail. NOTE: Be careful when unscrewing that metal piece. Fuel WILL start leaking, make sure that your car has not been running for a while before you unscrew that thing, otherwise fuel pressure can squirt gasoline all over. The piece you are going to replace that metal piece you just took out is part #16105. It’s the part that goes from a 4 to 1/8”. (labeled #20 on NX’s installation website http://www.nitrousexpress.com/installation/efisysinstall.pdf). When you replaced it, I suggest using some Teflon tape around the threads to make sure you have no fuel leaks. Be sure to make sure that no Teflon will be interfering with the fuel flow into the line.
After you have that installed, connect the 4 sized hose to your fuel rail like in the picture above, then connect the other side of that hose to your fuel solenoid IN attachment. It should look something like this:
Now, once this is done, you’re going to want to find a place that you want to put the nozzle that injects your nitrous and fuel into your intake. NX says to place your nozzle
2-6 inches from your throttle body, so find a place that allows all your lines to reach, and drill a hole in your intake to accommodate the size of the nozzle and its mounting unit. When finding a place to put this, DO NOT MAKE THE NOZZLE STICK STRAIGHT UP, as it will NOT clear you hood when it is closed (if you have a cowl hood or another non-stock hood, you may be able to mount it straight up, however check for clearance BEFORE you drill a hole). Once you have put the nozzle into the intake, it should look something like this:
Ill add the picture once I take it
After this is mounted, insert the correct sized jets that you’re going to use (included with your instructions for the nitrous kit) and screw the fuel line OUT connector onto the fuel side of the nozzle, and the N2O OUT connector onto the N2O side of the nozzle. Be sure you use the correct sized jets, and make sure all connections are securely fastened, YOU DON’T WANT ANY LEAKS!! Once this is all complete, you’re ready to wire it up!
Now since this is quite possibly the most confusing part of the entire installation, I figured I would make my own wiring diagram (since NX’s is rather confusing) and here it is. Just follow this and your wiring should be fine!
Once that is all wired up, you should be good to go! Now, attach you nitrous bottle to the main nitrous line, open the bottle and listen to the nitrous line fill with pressure. Now start driving but don’t floor your accelerator pedal yet, give it gas so it will rev to 3000 RPM’s while you’re driving, once you hit 3000 rpm’s, FLOOR you accelerator and flip that nitrous switch on. You should feel a nice kick in the pants from the added horsepower!