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Old 07-11-2008, 10:30 AM   #141
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

this is an updated pic with the new paint and turbo.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:31 AM   #142
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

is that kyles car in the grill?!?!?!
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:33 AM   #143
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

i think you googled that pic... i bet you never even got to sit in it
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:34 AM   #144
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

My stang is getting a similar paint job, but the fire is in black i think the clear is getting laid on toay and some more wetsanding is going on.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:37 AM   #145
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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My stang is getting a similar paint job, but the fire is in black i think the clear is getting laid on toay and some more wetsanding is going on.
thats excessive weight...
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:38 AM   #146
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

all about the primezzz
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:40 AM   #147
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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Originally Posted by SimplyOrangeTPS View Post
i think you googled that pic... i bet you never even got to sit in it
yeah that's it. i have so many pics of that car it's not funny. we took alot during the turbo pipe fabbing stage.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:41 AM   #148
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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Originally Posted by SimplyOrangeTPS View Post
thats excessive weight...
but it's a eaton v6, it's got plenty of power
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:42 AM   #149
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

he should put the tow rack on the back.... keep that rear end down
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:45 AM   #150
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

i think all v6's with eatons should come standard with wheelie bars and a parachute.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:46 AM   #151
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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Old 07-11-2008, 10:46 AM   #152
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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Originally Posted by SimplyOrangeTPS View Post
thats excessive weight...

That's why i'll probably have to order the KB lol

I love how when it comes to a v6 going fast people love to say "well he's got a ton of money into it". Is there a practical car in the 10's that doesn't have a lot of money into it?

Considering dollar for dollar, a 500hp v6 and a 500hp cobra probably have the same bottom line amount of money invested. A Termi with low mileage cost around $20k plus the mods to safely get it to 500hp, not just slapping on pulleys, but actually doing things right such as upgrading the IRS and things like that. The 6ers can be had for $9-11k at most with low mileage and that extra $9k that the cobra cost will pay for the M112 kit and 4.3 forged stroker, plus a few supporting mods, and that's paying full price to have it all done, not the DIY cost.

In drag, the 10,9,8,7 all pretty much run about the same amount of money, no matter what you start with, in a street car, no necessarilly a "streetable" car, but a street car. Hell an 1800lb car with 400hp will run 8's. They do it every weekend at State Capitol and NPR
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:48 AM   #153
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

lol the amount of money to get a termy to 500... is not much..... at all..... to get av6 to 500 hp... just.... just give up sir.... just give up
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:51 AM   #154
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

that car is a full interior car, get an inspection sticker and drive it...doesent cost much at all to go 10s in a cobra and pullying it is the "right" way to make power. we have 15K in a termy sn95 that is a mid 11 car, doesent even have a lower pulley.traps 120. will run 10s with a 100 shot...do that with a v6...

on 17" cobra rims

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Old 07-11-2008, 10:56 AM   #155
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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Originally Posted by RyansQuick6 View Post
That's why i'll probably have to order the KB lol

I love how when it comes to a v6 going fast people love to say "well he's got a ton of money into it". Is there a practical car in the 10's that doesn't have a lot of money into it?

Considering dollar for dollar, a 500hp v6 and a 500hp cobra probably have the same bottom line amount of money invested. A Termi with low mileage cost around $20k plus the mods to safely get it to 500hp, not just slapping on pulleys, but actually doing things right such as upgrading the IRS and things like that. The 6ers can be had for $9-11k at most with low mileage and that extra $9k that the cobra cost will pay for the M112 kit and 4.3 forged stroker, plus a few supporting mods, and that's paying full price to have it all done, not the DIY cost.

In drag, the 10,9,8,7 all pretty much run about the same amount of money, no matter what you start with, in a street car, no necessarilly a "streetable" car, but a street car. Hell an 1800lb car with 400hp will run 8's. They do it every weekend at State Capitol and NPR




ok, you have no clue as to what it takes to build a 7 or 8 sec car. do you realize how much MORE hp it takes to run 8's than 9's? and it's gonna take a lil more than 400 hp to run 8's.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:56 AM   #156
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RyansQuick6 View Post
That's why i'll probably have to order the KB lol

I love how when it comes to a v6 going fast people love to say "well he's got a ton of money into it". Is there a practical car in the 10's that doesn't have a lot of money into it?

Considering dollar for dollar, a 500hp v6 and a 500hp cobra probably have the same bottom line amount of money invested. A Termi with low mileage cost around $20k plus the mods to safely get it to 500hp, not just slapping on pulleys, but actually doing things right such as upgrading the IRS and things like that. The 6ers can be had for $9-11k at most with low mileage and that extra $9k that the cobra cost will pay for the M112 kit and 4.3 forged stroker, plus a few supporting mods, and that's paying full price to have it all done, not the DIY cost.

In drag, the 10,9,8,7 all pretty much run about the same amount of money, no matter what you start with, in a street car, no necessarilly a "streetable" car, but a street car. Hell an 1800lb car with 400hp will run 8's. They do it every weekend at State Capitol and NPR

Ported Eaton: $800 new
Upper Pulley: $100 new
Lower Pulley: $200 new
IRS Bushings: $100 new
Upper Control Arm Bushings: $70 new
Lower Control Arm Bushings: $70 new
Dyno Tune: $400
60# injectors: $300 new
BAP: $250 new
K&N Air Filter: $50 new
Offroad X Pipe: $160 new
Catback: $700 new (if you buy borla/bassani)

10 second ride. Priceless.

It would take a ton less money to get an 03/04 cobra into the 10s. IRS upgrades are not expensive. They are just bushings. If you buy the expensive ones, they are, but Steeda has them for a ton less.

The cheapest way to get a 6 into the 10s would be to forge the bottom end and spray the house down. However, once that bottle goes dry, you are back to being a mid to high 14 second ride. To be a 10 second all day car, you are looking at a big super charger or a turbo. Neither are very cost effective.

It's a bit like comparing apples to oranges when saying you can buy a v6 for x price and a cobra for y price. Cobras are holding their value where as V6's continue to get cheaper. Technically, a fox will go 10s for a ton less than a 6er but then we're just adding watermellons into the comparison.

The point is, sure, a 6 can go fast. but you can't come in and claim it is going to go 10's or make such and such hp using something it's big brother can't even make that power on. Once you start decreasing displacement, it starts taking more money to make it make horsepower. If that weren't the case, you would see more destroker kits on the market.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:57 AM   #157
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

its starting to sound like my Daytona days all over again lol. "no you cant make that on this motor, yes you can" lol. Anyways, the only thing I can really see wrong with this motor is somethins sqeaking (one of the components) since the belt was replaced. Oh and I have trouble finding 3rd on a quick down shift but the driver mod should fix this Reading through the other posts I see a 75shot is max recomended. Remember Im getting a second motor I dont need a reason to rebuild this one lol.Ive seen the pony w/ the flames b4. Guess I havent been around long enough to see it before then Im not lookin for any specific time at the tracks. I just want to make good reasonable horsepower while stripping weight to help it all out. btw speaking of which where can I get CF Doors?
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:00 AM   #158
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

cf doors are in japan on integras:
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:02 AM   #159
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PureVenom View Post
Ported Eaton: $800 new
Upper Pulley: $100 new
Lower Pulley: $200 new
IRS Bushings: $100 new
Upper Control Arm Bushings: $70 new
Lower Control Arm Bushings: $70 new
Dyno Tune: $400
60# injectors: $300 new
BAP: $250 new
K&N Air Filter: $50 new
Offroad X Pipe: $160 new
Catback: $700 new (if you buy borla/bassani)

10 second ride. Priceless.

It would take a ton less money to get an 03/04 cobra into the 10s. IRS upgrades are not expensive. They are just bushings. If you buy the expensive ones, they are, but Steeda has them for a ton less.

The cheapest way to get a 6 into the 10s would be to forge the bottom end and spray the house down. However, once that bottle goes dry, you are back to being a mid to high 14 second ride. To be a 10 second all day car, you are looking at a big super charger or a turbo. Neither are very cost effective.

It's a bit like comparing apples to oranges when saying you can buy a v6 for x price and a cobra for y price. Cobras are holding their value where as V6's continue to get cheaper. Technically, a fox will go 10s for a ton less than a 6er but then we're just adding watermellons into the comparison.

The point is, sure, a 6 can go fast. but you can't come in and claim it is going to go 10's or make such and such hp using something it's big brother can't even make that power on.
Once you start decreasing displacement, it starts taking more money to make it make horsepower. If that weren't the case, you would see more destroker kits on the market.
Go over to V6Power.net and let them know what their doing is impossible.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:02 AM   #160
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

and it takes alot more than just makin hp to go fast. chassis, suspension, drivetrain, everything has to be upgraded. to build the caliber of car like we had takes around 100,000. yes you can make a v6 fast. a 4cyl can be made to go fast. but bottom line is that it will ALWAYS take more money to make a v6 go as fast as a v8. PERIOD. don't care if you know someone's buddy who has this and that, THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT. this holds true. take 50000. build a v6 and then build a v8. the v8 will always be faster. i think it has something to do with the 2 more cylinders. go build a v6, go fast, yeah it's cool, but don't claim to want to do it on a budget or say it's cheaper than building a v8.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:04 AM   #161
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

we never said its impossible...

its not tangible... the cost of doing it, just assume go buy a gtgayhundred.... and still not dip 11 with extra cash into it...
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:05 AM   #162
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

Bigger motor=bigger power
smaller motor=bigger wallet(less gas:p)
And where the hell did this whole 10 second V6 thing come from? Im not really concerned with the 1/4 mi lol. Anyone can go in a straight line (well almost....Sparkplug were you driving that beast? hehe)
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:05 AM   #163
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

do you realize that the extra boost of an eaton m112 is used up in trying to compensate for the 2 missing cylinders?
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:05 AM   #164
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

you don't want me to go on that site.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:06 AM   #165
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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Go over to V6Power.net and let them know what their doing is impossible.
I didn't say it was impossible...I said it was not cheep. You can make power out of a damn lawn mower if you want. It just takes money.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:07 AM   #166
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

if somebody is building a gas mileage race car........im truly sorry....
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:08 AM   #167
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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we never said its impossible...

its not tangible... the cost of doing it, just assume go buy a gtgayhundred.... and still not dip 11 with extra cash into it...
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:08 AM   #168
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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you don't want me to go on that site.
Go for it....
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:11 AM   #169
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

I've only helped build an 8 sec 1800 lb car, it's amazing what power to weight can do.

I've also built 8,000lb 10 sec trucks, but I guess i don't know what I'm talking about

I built them, not the "i know a guy who knows a guy, who saw someone at some track do it."

But then again, I guess you'd probably assume that a 400 dual stage shot of juice would blow up a stock diesel as well.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:11 AM   #170
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

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do you realize that the extra boost of an eaton m112 is used up in trying to compensate for the 2 missing cylinders?
And used up quickly.

Boost is a measure of restriction. The more restriction you have, the more the air gets compressed. AKA, boost.

An eaton is not efficient at compressing air. It gets the job done, yes, however it builds a ton of heat. The heat is not built up due to RPMS of the blower, but by the compression of the air.

An eaton is a positive displacement blower. Whether you mount it on a 4 banger or a 16 cylander, each rotation of the rotors is going to move the same amount of air. So when you mount that blower on the 6, it is moving the same amount of air as if you mount it on the 8.

However, since you are trying to push the same amount of air into less space, you will build more boost. Boost does not mean more power. more air means more power. Since you have not pushed more air into the motor, you are not making more power. Because you are pushing the same air into a smaller space, you have however built more boost. Therefore, you have built more heat. Heat costs power.

Do you see where this discussion is going? And no, this is not directed at your post Jarrod. I am just kind of expanding on your statement.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:13 AM   #171
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

[QUOTE=RyansQuick6;463024]I've only helped build an 8 sec 1800 lb car, it's amazing what power to weight can do.

I've also built 8,000lb 10 sec trucks, but I guess i don't know what I'm talking about

I built them, not the "i know a guy who knows a guy, who saw someone at some track do it."

But then again, I guess you'd probably assume that a 400 dual stage shot of juice would blow up a stock diesel as well.[/QUOTE]


Depends, was it tuned?
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:15 AM   #172
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

Ok Jarrod...face it. You're stupid.

You will not make anywhere near the power you want on kyles car. The only way you will be able to is with a turbo or if he buys my blower from me....or the one you have on the shelf at the shop.

You are just going to be wasting kyles money in this build. I'm going to tell him to go to L&S instead because you are completely clueless.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:15 AM   #173
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

doesn't need it, but of course, not even on a dyno
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:16 AM   #174
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

Eeeeeeeeeewwwwwwww L&S, are they still in business? All I ever heard was horror stories.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:19 AM   #175
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Re: 8.8 or 9" rear?

so Id really be that much better off with a procharger huh? ugh, well, if its that much more efficient.
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