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Old 01-29-2013, 12:29 AM   #1
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Crap throttle response

I've noticed over the last couple weeks my throttle response is getting slightly worse, there's now a definate delay from putting the pedal down and the engine actually waking up...

Its got a stack racing CAI, just replaced the plugs a couple weeks ago.

Here's some symptoms I've noticed, I don't know how many of these may be connected.

Whining from around fuel door (pretty sure the pumps going)
Slight fuel smell after shutoff
Crap throttle response
Sometimes takes cranking it 20-30 seconds to get it to fire
Sometimes very noticeable vibration at idle unless I rev the engine, kind of feels like a miss.

None of this has really had any affect on the performance, mash the pedal and it'll get up and go.
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:44 AM   #2
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Clogged fuel filter....swap it and see how well that 140 hp gets up and goes

If that $10 fix doesnt help id say time to swap the pump.
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:49 AM   #3
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I was thinking that as well, figured id get some input before I started throwing parts at it.
And it actually feels pretty ballsy for just a 140hp lol

It won't be 140 for long though, turbo 4.2 splitport in the works trying to keep it dependable til the new engine and rear end are ready to be dropped in
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:09 AM   #4
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Youd make more power on a turbod singleport from what the average is online. We hear these type of builds all the time so hope you stick with it. Keep us up to date.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:17 AM   #5
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Yea everyone wants to do it but hardly anyone keeps commited
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:55 AM   #6
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really? I've heard talks of P/P single ports being better for boost but no real figures..
I, by all means, intend to go through with this build. ive found a junkyard by me that'll sell me the entire 4.2 from a 97 f150 for 225, if i go single port ill just buy a shortblock from them.
A buddy of mine has a holset turbo (60mm t4 I believe) he'll sell me for $50, if I go single turbo, I'll probably use that, if I go with twins, they'll be td05 turbos from dsm's.
does anyone know if they're are any known issues or downfalls with the 95 single port heads? I know the 95 3.8 blocks are crap..
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:01 AM   #7
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That sounds like my old mustang.. I replaced fuel filter. Spark plugs injectors fuel pump and could never figured out why it felt so weak..
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:09 AM   #8
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It doesn't feel weak though, thats whats weird about it. it hasn't lost any power, theres just a definate delay from hitting the pedal to the engine actually revving. like, if i hit the pedal hard real quick and lift my foot off, i can have my foot off the pedal before the motor actually revs...thats how crap the response is lol

let me rephrase that, it doesnt feel weaker than it actually is being a pretty much stock v6 lol
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:01 AM   #9
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New plugs? What brand? Fords are picky when it comes to plugs.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:53 AM   #10
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It doesn't feel weak though, thats whats weird about it. it hasn't lost any power, theres just a definate delay from hitting the pedal to the engine actually revving. like, if i hit the pedal hard real quick and lift my foot off, i can have my foot off the pedal before the motor actually revs...thats how crap the response is lol

let me rephrase that, it doesnt feel weaker than it actually is being a pretty much stock v6 lol
Well it felt like lazy. I would step on the gas and it would take like 5 seconds to move
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:07 AM   #11
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New plugs? What brand? Fords are picky when it comes to plugs.
+1. Indeed very picky.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:15 AM   #12
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+1. Indeed very picky.
Yep, best plugs are the motorcraft copper plugs. Buying any of the fancy plugs does no good for us.....I know ive tried.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:17 PM   #13
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Plugs are motorcraft coppers lol
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:33 PM   #14
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Replaced the fuel filter just now, and...wow! Lol the crap that came out of that thing.. I wanna say that that filter had been in there all 180xxx miles of life the cars got.

Throttle response is still kinda ehh, didn't drive it enough to see if the whining and fuel smell was still there, I'm going to go get some gas and drive her around here in a little bit.

I'm going to pull all the plugs tomorrow probably and regap them because I don't think we gapped them to the proper spec when we put them in.

But, so far, no bad vibration at idle, no sounds like a miss
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:20 PM   #15
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good to know the filter has helped so far...it's always a worthwhile replacement
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:29 PM   #16
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Indeed, thanks for the suggestion.. I tend to be kinda pessimistic with my stang (might be from what happened to my first stang, but that's another story lol) and assume the worst lol.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:32 PM   #17
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for the gas smell if it's still there check the fuel filler neck grommet at the tank...you would be surprised how many i order for customers for sn95s
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:39 PM   #18
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Aha, didn't think to check that. The smell was definately coming from the rear end.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:40 PM   #19
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Smell seems to be gone, the whining is definately still there. Had the car checked at advance and its a 95 obd2 (I can use tuners ) and the alternator is about to go.. its charging at 13.3-5 volts I guess.
So, the alternator may be the cause for some of the weird stuff I've had going on inside the car like on the dash and stuff..

But she's running a hell of a lot better.
Oh, found out I misread the box when I replaced my thermo and I put a 190 degree thermo in.. bout a 160 degree so that's next.

---------- Post added at 02:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:36 PM ----------

Oh, side note, thought this was kinda weird..
Drove the car last night and it was about 50-55 degrees, throttle response was kinda sloppy..no biggy

Started her up today in 18 degree weather and it was great.. touch the pedal and the motors right there.. as it warmed up both outside and the engine itself, it started playing the same tricks.. I don't get it.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:48 PM   #20
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a 190 thermostat is normal for our car's isnt it? I replaced mine with a 180 and it runs nice and cool
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:25 PM   #21
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yeah 190 is correct but a lot of guys switch to the 180...as for the start issues expect your car to run better in colder weather
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:28 PM   #22
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Hah, Im a hipster.. I replaced my thermostat with a 180 before I knew it was cool.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:36 PM   #23
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Yeah, 190 is normal. I decided to go with the 160 because id like to keep it as cool as possible, and if it gets hot after the thermo replacement I can track down possible causes from there.

And I do expect it to run better when colder, but the throttle response issues I've had have been in like 10-20 degree weather even, just that one time it was better... idk.

As long as it lasts til tax return time, ill be happy.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:42 PM   #24
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well now that i know you put in a 160 i will say you can cause lot of issues running one that low since your car has a computerized emission control system.

Replacing the thermostat with the wrong one for the application (either colder or hotter), it can cause driveability, fuel economy, performance and emissions problems. So if the thermostat is replaced for any reason, it must be replaced with one that has the same (or correct) temperature rating for your vehicle.

think of 180-190 the correct temp range for our cars
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:51 PM   #25
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I haven't put it in yet, but now that you said that, I don't know if I want to..

I hadn't heard anything about too cold of a thermo potentially causing issues like that, thanks for the heads up.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:56 PM   #26
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in older cars it wasn't an issue..in fact i've known people that had 2 thermostats...one for spring and summer then one for fall and winter, but newer cars tend to like a certain range
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:56 PM   #27
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In an older car it usually wouldnt bother that much, but these newer cars are made to run a certain temperature to work properly, Emissions and fuel usage mostly.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:57 PM   #28
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Yeah, that's where most of my knowledge is, in old school cars. I'm definately learning a lot about the computerized systems in the newer cars.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:02 PM   #29
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In an older car it usually wouldnt bother that much, but these newer cars are made to run a certain temperature to work properly, Emissions and fuel usage mostly.
wow it's like i read a double post almost
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:12 PM   #30
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wow it's like i read a double post almost
Lol! I did a discount double check. I thought the same thing. I was like, didn't I just read that? I feel the need to copy and paste it again lol.

---------- Post added at 10:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:09 PM ----------

My questions are simple. Did you check the gap in the new plugs? How long since u changed wires?
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:15 PM   #31
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Yeah, 190 is normal. I decided to go with the 160 because id like to keep it as cool as possible, and if it gets hot after the thermo replacement I can track down possible causes from there.

And I do expect it to run better when colder, but the throttle response issues I've had have been in like 10-20 degree weather even, just that one time it was better... idk.

As long as it lasts til tax return time, ill be happy.
Do not use the 160*.. The car Is designed to operate within a certain temp range and 160* is too cool and you will not get out of the 'cold loop' and performance and drivability will suffer as well as MPG.. It will run rich which isn't awful but it's not great either, and the rear of the car will stay dirty especially if you have off road exhaust. If you are having a cooling issue this may 'mask' the real issue for now but eventually the real problem will get worse and possibly cost more to repair in the long run.. I just finished going through this, and after speaking at length with ppl online and a tech at FastLane the consensus is not to use a 160* in a street car.. Fast lanes tech said they never install 160*'s in their customers cars and don't carry them, only 180's.. Just offering the advice I've acquired over time and recently corrected the same mistake made by the previous owner of my car.. Best of luck to ya
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:28 PM   #32
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Gaps I'm going to check as soon as this area thaws.. wires looked new, probably going to replace them anyhow

---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:24 PM ----------

Ill just leave the 190 in until I yank the engine, its not taking a beating so it should be ok.. I've read about the temp and a couple other guages on the stock cluster, some people have had problems with the resistance or voltage giving a wrong reading on the gauge? Anyone kno more about this? I've noticed the more power being used, the higher the gauges go.. its pretty cool to see it when the hazards and stereo are on. Lol
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:39 PM   #33
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Gaps I'm going to check as soon as this area thaws.. wires looked new, probably going to replace them anyhow

---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:24 PM ----------

Ill just leave the 190 in until I yank the engine, its not taking a beating so it should be ok.. I've read about the temp and a couple other guages on the stock cluster, some people have had problems with the resistance or voltage giving a wrong reading on the gauge? Anyone kno more about this? I've noticed the more power being used, the higher the gauges go.. its pretty cool to see it when the hazards and stereo are on. Lol
Even 'good looking' wires can be bad and arc. Making sure they do not cross over each other any more then they have to will help. Wire looms are not just for looks lol

If you are having alt issues that can cause problems with gauges and various other things as well.. I'd suggest unhooking the stereo, replacing the alt if its bad before throwing money at various parts. Troubleshooting is just eliminating variables like like the extra stereo stuff and known bad parts and see where you stand.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:14 PM   #34
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Yeah, that's why I going to just replace them, they're not that expensive.
The wires don't cross over each other anymore than stock.

The alternator was tested and I was told its "barely working" lol
The stereo is a mach 460 with a sony head unit. Tried disconnecting it and there's still a power drain.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:16 PM   #35
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Yeah, that's why I going to just replace them, they're not that expensive.
The wires don't cross over each other anymore than stock.

The alternator was tested and I was told its "barely working" lol
The stereo is a mach 460 with a sony head unit. Tried disconnecting it and there's still a power drain.
Start with the alt if that's the case, it can and will leave you beside the w/o warning.
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