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Old 06-25-2013, 07:28 PM   #36
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We're can I find the sticky section on the mobile app
Right under the search bar
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:38 PM   #37
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Lmao wow, thanks
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:18 PM   #38
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So just a stock 4.2 bottom end on my car would be more straight forward that what their talking about in the sticky, but are the 4.2 heads the same as mine?
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:36 PM   #39
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So just a stock 4.2 bottom end on my car would be more straight forward that what their talking about in the sticky, but are the 4.2 heads the same as mine?
If you have a 01-04 you will have everything already when you get the 4.2 bottom because the rest comes off your car

And the 4.2's have the same exact splitport heads as mustangs
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:18 PM   #40
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So would it be beter to re use mine or keep the ones that's on the 4.2

---------- Post added at 11:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:16 PM ----------

And what's the point of replacing the internals of the 4.2 other than forging for boost and raising compression, are stock internals capable of 300hp-ish
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:32 AM   #41
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So would it be beter to re use mine or keep the ones that's on the 4.2

---------- Post added at 11:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:16 PM ----------

And what's the point of replacing the internals of the 4.2 other than forging for boost and raising compression, are stock internals capable of 300hp-ish
Doesn't matter.. Same exact heads

Stock internals can take 400+ with a perfect tune
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:37 AM   #42
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What would be a simple way of bumping up compression on the 4.2? Sorry about all the questions, just trying to see all my options
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:50 AM   #43
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Heads being milled, every .010" is about .2 compression bump
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:39 PM   #44
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Probly can't get to much milled right? Like .2-.3 max?

---------- Post added at 04:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:38 PM ----------

Sorry .02-.03 lol
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:57 PM   #45
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Mine are around .030", the max is around .050"
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:48 PM   #46
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Don't convert to returnless.. They make splitport style fuel rails that are already return style, I forget which one it is that is the correct height for the swap but do some looking i've seen it mentioned before (not on here but V6P will likely have an answer)
I haven't found what you're talking about yet, but is there any advantages to either? Or will it just be an easier swap?
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:31 AM   #47
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It's either a windstar, e150, or f150 fuel rail that is both setup for return style and splitport head spacing with the correct heights.. Easier for one, plus return style supports power easier
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:41 AM   #48
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It's either a windstar, e150, or f150 fuel rail that is both setup for return style and splitport head spacing with the correct heights.. Easier for one, plus return style supports power easier
It's the E150. Will 24lb injectors suffice? I'm going for 270-280rwhp n/a
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:06 AM   #49
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For N/A yes

Can always go bigger just so they won't have to work as much, I'm running termi injectors on my N/A car lol
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:06 PM   #50
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I have a 4.2 with singleport heads.
this is the weakest 4.2 you could possible build.
I estimate at least 170-180hp with the 4.2.
The extra torque is so noticeable though(compared to the old 160,000 3.8 that i had before)
even with the Auto tranny and stock 2.73 gears, you can feel the power difference. If I keep it, I'll get a 8.8 rear-end,(local place doesn't have any currently, said they usually cost $200-300 used), and a split port swap with windstar intake and fuel line.

I'm not sure I think I saw that the fastest NA v6 is pusing around 300??? I don't know though.
I would be happy if I got my V6 pusing 260 or more, keep up with the NE GT's, and beat stock/mild pre-99 GT's.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:46 PM   #51
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I actually just raced a auto gt on track and was very close to him, he had way bigger tires and hooked up better, but by the end of the eighth mile I was probly 1-2 car lengths behind, I think a few small things n I'd be beating them
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:47 AM   #52
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I have a 4.2 with singleport heads.
this is the weakest 4.2 you could possible build.
I estimate at least 170-180hp with the 4.2.
The extra torque is so noticeable though(compared to the old 160,000 3.8 that i had before)
even with the Auto tranny and stock 2.73 gears, you can feel the power difference. If I keep it, I'll get a 8.8 rear-end,(local place doesn't have any currently, said they usually cost $200-300 used), and a split port swap with windstar intake and fuel line.

I'm not sure I think I saw that the fastest NA v6 is pusing around 300??? I don't know though.
I would be happy if I got my V6 pusing 260 or more, keep up with the NE GT's, and beat stock/mild pre-99 GT's.
278rwhp (SAE) is the record

Mine only made 242 on the old tune and had cats, I added 3.73's to that and a full bolt on and geared 2V couldn't pull me..

Remember they're rated at 260/300 at crank not wheels, stock dynos are usually 225/260 on autos

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I actually just raced a auto gt on track and was very close to him, he had way bigger tires and hooked up better, but by the end of the eighth mile I was probly 1-2 car lengths behind, I think a few small things n I'd be beating them
Time slip?

Short track racing is a different game, 2 car lengths there is over a bus in the 1/4 usually lol
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:18 AM   #53
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You almost took a GT? 1/8th right? What have you done to your car?

When I went up against a GT at the 1/8 th I was 2-3 cars away from it at the finish. David's right though. If it was 1/4th he woulda gobbled you up by a bus at least. I got 10.5's and the GT's got at around low 9's high 8's if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:01 AM   #54
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It was a street racing made safe event, so no time slips, but I have intake, dumped exhaust, full msd spark, and 8.8 with 3.73s, he was a stock auto, only reason I was even close lol, but yea I know on the 1/4 it woulda been a whole mother story,

---------- Post added at 07:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:01 AM ----------

And I've run a 10.2 a while ago, idk now, plus I have a HUGE exhaust leak
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:14 PM   #55
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One more question is when should I start upgrading fuel?
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:17 PM   #56
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when you car can use the fuel...
Unless your running high compression or forced induction, the lower octane fuel should be enough.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:42 PM   #57
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I mean upgrading my fuel system...
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:03 PM   #58
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I maxed stock injectors N/A.. If you plan on crossing 220-230rwhp step up to 24's or if you happen to find a cheap set (usually one or two around for just $100) get some terminator 39's.

As for the pump I'm running 85% duty cycle or so on WOT with stock pump, depending on hp goals will determine which pump you want. A cheap and excellent pump is the one from a Lincoln aviator, they are rated at 310lph but actually flow 270lph, the svt pump is only rated at 255, actual flow is less of course.
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:12 PM   #59
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Well I was always taught to upgrade the pump first, you get a more efficient spray that way. If you put a bigger nozel with the same amount of pressure, yes you will get more fuel, but it will be harder to burn, more pressure behind a smaller nozel will atomize the fuel beter making it easier to burn. Think of a spray bottle, it's like the squirt setting and the mist setting.

---------- Post added at 07:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

So I would probly put a bigger pump on my stock injectors, max that out, then go the next size up if necessary
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:15 PM   #60
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Well I was always taught to upgrade the pump first, you get a more efficient spray that way. If you put a bigger nozel with the same amount of pressure, yes you will get more fuel, but it will be harder to burn, more pressure behind a smaller nozel will atomize the fuel beter making it easier to burn. Think of a spray bottle, it's like the squirt setting and the mist setting.

---------- Post added at 07:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

So I would probly put a bigger pump on my stock injectors, max that out, then go the next size up if necessary
That would make sense.. If the rail wasn't regulated to 40psi the entire time
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:18 PM   #61
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Touché... What about higher flowing rails?
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:19 PM   #62
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Stock rails are good up to 500rwhp
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Old 06-30-2013, 01:41 PM   #63
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If I get the ev6 39lb injectors, I know they'll definitely hold up under an n/a setup; but when I switch to turbo how much psi can they handle? 10-13?
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Old 06-30-2013, 01:44 PM   #64
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If I get the ev6 39lb injectors, I know they'll definitely hold up under an n/a setup; but when I switch to turbo how much psi can they handle? 10-13?
They support 420-440rwhp on a V6 iirc, however much boost it takes you to get there
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Old 06-30-2013, 01:52 PM   #65
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They support 420-440rwhp on a V6 iirc, however much boost it takes you to get there
Those are the exact numbers I'm trying to hit. A couple of friends and I are starting a 1/8 mile ranking here in Maryland so I need to keep up with their v8s. I'm 300lbs lighter, now I just need the horses to smoke um.
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:57 PM   #66
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So, the question I've had about the 4.2 swap is, if I take a trip to the local salvage and pull the rotating assembly out of the 4.2 F150, I can just slap it into my stock '04 3.9 right? no clearance issues at TDC or BDC? no oil pan problems? no crank clearance problems? just need a tune? and will it run until I can get a tune without dying or worse?

And, if/when I do this swap, should I keep the 3.9 cam or use the 4.2 F150 cam, or will the F150 cam cause clearance issues with the valves?
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:44 PM   #67
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So, the question I've had about the 4.2 swap is, if I take a trip to the local salvage and pull the rotating assembly out of the 4.2 F150, I can just slap it into my stock '04 3.9 right? no clearance issues at TDC or BDC? no oil pan problems? no crank clearance problems? just need a tune? and will it run until I can get a tune without dying or worse?

And, if/when I do this swap, should I keep the 3.9 cam or use the 4.2 F150 cam, or will the F150 cam cause clearance issues with the valves?
Just get the whole bottom end and swap in no need to pull the assembly and buy new rings bearings etc

The 4.2 swap thread answers pretty much everything..

And no stock bottom ends can take a .55lift cam and not care at all, any factory cam is below .460 lift so nothing to worry about, the 4.2 cam is a little more aggressive than the mustang splitport cam so it's ok to leave in there to help a little
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:46 PM   #68
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Hmm since we're on fuel, how hard would it be to upgrade your fuel rails?

BTW surffer you may want to clear your inbox lol
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:53 PM   #69
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Hmm since we're on fuel, how hard would it be to upgrade your fuel rails?

BTW surffer you may want to clear your inbox lol
They're all custom made.. Andy at tma turbo makes some can check his site and see, not sure if price is on there it you have to email him about it
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:41 PM   #70
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Quote:
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Just get the whole bottom end and swap in no need to pull the assembly and buy new rings bearings etc

The 4.2 swap thread answers pretty much everything..

And no stock bottom ends can take a .55lift cam and not care at all, any factory cam is below .460 lift so nothing to worry about, the 4.2 cam is a little more aggressive than the mustang splitport cam so it's ok to leave in there to help a little
Ok, maybe I'm confused about what is included in the "whole bottom end" I always assumed the "bottom end" was the crank-pistons. By "whole bottom end" do you mean the whole short block?
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