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Old 12-05-2013, 06:29 AM   #1
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Rear Axle swap

I know this has been answered here somewhere before, but I couldn't find the thread. First off, how hard is it to swap a v6 rear axle with a GT axle from the same year? Second, what are the benefits of swapping? And finally, will having a gt rear axle effect any mods you try and install that are made specifically for the v6?
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:34 AM   #2
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It bolts directly in place. Benefits are a factory locker and stronger platform.

The only parts that won't be interchangable are rear axle specific parts.
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:23 AM   #3
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Take off, swap in. Easy process. Lowflyn is right. Everything is gonna be the same except anything that goes on the rear axle mainly gears. And also you won't need the quad shocks that come on the rear GT axle
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:04 PM   #4
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The 8.8 305 rear end is a big boost in power. It is kind of like cheating hp. You will gain speed and get a excellent response especially at lower r.p.m. This is the mod even older Mustangs are using to get down the track faster. The only difference in the v-8 and v-6 is 35 hp but the rear end will leave you in dust.
The only hard part about this mod is you either need a speedo gear or a tune to properly calibrate correctly.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samuelsmith
The 8.8 305 rear end is a big boost in power. It is kind of like cheating hp. You will gain speed and get a excellent response especially at lower r.p.m. This is the mod even older Mustangs are using to get down the track faster. The only difference in the v-8 and v-6 is 35 hp but the rear end will leave you in dust.
The only hard part about this mod is you either need a speedo gear or a tune to properly calibrate correctly.
Huh? Both the gt and v6 came with 3.27 gears from Ford. Nothing to adjust
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:46 PM   #6
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So would it matter if you were going to replace the springs and lower it later? Also, should you stick with the year of your car or just stay within that models years.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRoss.20
So would it matter if you were going to replace the springs and lower it later? Also, should you stick with the year of your car or just stay within that models years.
Springs and shocks are identical. Upper and lower control arms are identical.

You will want to stay 99-04 for the proper length. 94-98 are slightly narrower.
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:54 PM   #8
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Huh? Both the gt and v6 came with 3.27 gears from Ford. Nothing to adjust
Learn something new every day. The swap is cheaper than I expected.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:47 AM   #9
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Learn something new every day. The swap is cheaper than I expected.
How much would it be ya think?
I've been wanting to do a swap on mine for a while!!

Also can anyone prett much do it? I changed the springs on my car and can do some other basic stuff too. This shouldn't be to hard should it?
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:45 PM   #10
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I bought my 8.8 for $300 and it came with 3.73's. It's a very simple swap with hand tools, just need 4 jack stands a jack and a normal tool set (with the exception of the 21mm needed for the rear bolt on Lower LCA) I did mine on my own in about 30 minutes.
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:12 PM   #11
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I bought my 8.8 for $300 and it came with 3.73's. It's a very simple swap with hand tools, just need 4 jack stands a jack and a normal tool set (with the exception of the 21mm needed for the rear bolt on Lower LCA) I did mine on my own in about 30 minutes.
Where did you find one so cheap?
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:16 PM   #12
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Craigslist ftw, I caught it the day it was posted
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Old 12-06-2013, 04:16 PM   #13
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How much would it be ya think?
I've been wanting to do a swap on mine for a while!!

Also can anyone prett much do it? I changed the springs on my car and can do some other basic stuff too. This shouldn't be to hard should it?
My local recycle center sells them for $400. The Berries u pull it sells them for $50 but you will never find one because they get 6s
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:08 PM   #14
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I paid $280 for running/wrecked gt, Planned out an engine swap ended up just swapping parts and selling it.
It's a direct bolt-in. You might need some help, to get it in though. I couldn't get the axle balanced on the floor jack. Had someone keep it balanced while I jacked it up and bolted it in.
Your going to need a spring compressor for the springs.
when I was putting the 7.5 rear in the wrecked GT so I could get it rolled onto a trailer, I just had a friend stand on the axle to get it low enough so I could just push the spring in with out compressing it lol.
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:15 PM   #15
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Put rear end on jack stands, put jack under control arm, undo bolt and slowly lower the axle side of LCA spring will just fall right out, and reverse for install, simple easy and a lot safer than trying to twist the axle to pull the spring out lol
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:52 AM   #16
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Put rear end on jack stands, put jack under control arm, undo bolt and slowly lower the axle side of LCA spring will just fall right out, and reverse for install, simple easy and a lot safer than trying to twist the axle to pull the spring out lol
Have you guys driven in rain or snow with it? Is it worse than an open differential in bad weather?
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:44 AM   #17
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It only makes it worse if you try to act stupid with it lol mine sees rain often but with summer tires I don't take it out in the icy crap we get here.
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:32 PM   #18
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It only makes it worse if you try to act stupid with it lol mine sees rain often but with summer tires I don't take it out in the icy crap we get here.
So driving normal the back doesn't kick out easier?
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:50 PM   #19
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I haven't tried to get it to kick-out from behind me yet, I pulled donuts with the open 7.5 though...
Most I've done so far, is that I pulled a quick burn-out the day I put it in, but it kinda just pulled to the side a little.
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:04 PM   #20
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So driving normal the back doesn't kick out easier?
As long as you don't drive hard enough to break traction lol the stall in my car makes it fishtail easily when I blip the throttle though 3K rpm in a snap and water make for fun
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:50 PM   #21
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As long as you don't drive hard enough to break traction lol the stall in my car makes it fishtail easily when I blip the throttle though 3K rpm in a snap and water make for fun
Ok thanks. What gears do you have?
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:51 PM   #22
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Hmm just found a rear end with 4:10 gears, GT, sway bar, and control arms.... Heck yes!
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:08 PM   #23
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Ok thanks. What gears do you have?
3.73's

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Hmm just found a rear end with 4:10 gears, GT, sway bar, and control arms.... Heck yes!
Not bad! How much? And stock control arms are the same so unless they are aftermarket tell him to keep them and see if you can get a lower price
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:14 PM   #24
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3.73's Not bad! How much? And stock control arms are the same so unless they are aftermarket tell him to keep them and see if you can get a lower price
Was your car noticeably quicker than before? And would 4.10's in a manual be to much?
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:19 PM   #25
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Was your car noticeably quicker than before? And would 4.10's in a manual be to much?
In a basic bolt on car no. But if you ever go supercharged it will be annoying
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:45 PM   #26
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Remember you need new crush washers and pinions when you change gears. Working on a rear end is like doing surgery, everything has to be perfect.By the time you pay a mechanic you might as well buy a pumpkin.
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