3.73 vs 4.10 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-26-2014, 03:15 PM   #1
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3.73 vs 4.10

Hello I'm new to the forum, My wife and I decided to keep our old trusty pony, we call it Patches the pony, because of the paint chips its missing, so we have started the task of beautifying it. Now I'm at this dilemma do I put 3.73 or 4.10 gears in the pumpkin? It's a V6 1998 coupe, this is what we have in it so far:

Ford Racing lowering B Springs Front 1-1/8"; Rear 3/4" with poly springs isolators
Tokico HP series shocks and struts
BBK Caster Camber plates
Pypes High Flow Cats
True Dual SLP Loudmouth Exhaust w/Resonators 2.5''
BBK CAI
MSD Coil pack
MSD 8.5mm Wires
Drilled and Slotted rotors w/ceramic pads

we still need to get the power pack from super six motorsports and do a minor overhaul while we are at it to address some leaks and overhaul the tranny or maybe a new better one we don't know yet any info would be great.
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:21 PM   #2
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is it auto or manual. 4.10 in an auto is a bad idea
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:22 PM   #3
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is it auto or manual. 4.10 in an auto is a bad idea
? 4.10's in an auto are perfect...

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Old 01-26-2014, 03:24 PM   #4
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? 4.10's in an auto are perfect...

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+1^ hell I love mine in my manual

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Old 01-26-2014, 03:32 PM   #5
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yes to manual. no to auto
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:33 PM   #6
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yes to manual. no to auto
Strange logic there. What would you recommend for an auto then?
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:35 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by RedDevil View Post
Hello I'm new to the forum, My wife and I decided to keep our old trusty pony, we call it Patches the pony, because of the paint chips its missing, so we have started the task of beautifying it. Now I'm at this dilemma do I put 3.73 or 4.10 gears in the pumpkin? It's a V6 1998 coupe, this is what we have in it so far:

Ford Racing lowering B Springs Front 1-1/8"; Rear 3/4" with poly springs isolators
Tokico HP series shocks and struts
BBK Caster Camber plates
Pypes High Flow Cats
True Dual SLP Loudmouth Exhaust w/Resonators 2.5''
BBK CAI
MSD Coil pack
MSD 8.5mm Wires
Drilled and Slotted rotors w/ceramic pads

we still need to get the power pack from super six motorsports and do a minor overhaul while we are at it to address some leaks and overhaul the tranny or maybe a new better one we don't know yet any info would be great.
What are your goals for the car? What's your typical commute/drive in it look like (ie. Highway vs city)
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Old 01-26-2014, 03:41 PM   #8
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I commute 3-4 hrs per day, 4 days per week. I LOVE my 4.10's.. I barely have to touch the pedal because the motor has 20% less stress on it now. Still 25mpg

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Old 01-26-2014, 03:48 PM   #9
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It's a simple calculation. 4.1/3.73 = 1.1. With the 4.1 your RPM at a given speed will be 10% higher compared to 3.73. Do the same calculation using your current rear end ratio. That will increase torque at the wheels 10% at a given RPM until you pass the peaks at about 4,000 RPM for torque and 5,500 RPM for horsepower. Expect the 4.1 to lower your 0-60 time about 10% compared to the 3.73. At highway speeds you're probably turning about 2,000-2,500 RPM now. 200-250 RPM won't affect highway speeds except at speeds which put you near redline. Mileage will drop about 5% (guess) because although the engine will run 10% faster it won't have to work as hard because of the increased torque at the wheels
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:00 PM   #10
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It's a simple calculation. 4.1/3.73 = 1.1. With the 4.1 your RPM at a given speed will be 10% higher compared to 3.73. Do the same calculation using your current rear end ratio. That will increase torque at the wheels 10% at a given RPM until you pass the peaks at about 4,000 RPM for torque and 5,500 RPM for horsepower. Expect the 4.1 to lower your 0-60 time about 10% compared to the 3.73. At highway speeds you're probably turning about 2,000-2,500 RPM now. 200-250 RPM won't affect highway speeds except at speeds which put you near redline. Mileage will drop about 5% (guess) because although the engine will run 10% faster it won't have to work as hard because of the increased torque at the wheels
I know the math behind torque multiplication. I just want to know why you think 4.10s are better for a manual, which will run more rpms per gear than an auto will, and what gears you would recommend for an auto.
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:01 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by KraftDinner View Post
It's a simple calculation. 4.1/3.73 = 1.1. With the 4.1 your RPM at a given speed will be 10% higher compared to 3.73. Do the same calculation using your current rear end ratio. That will increase torque at the wheels 10% at a given RPM until you pass the peaks at about 4,000 RPM for torque and 5,500 RPM for horsepower. Expect the 4.1 to lower your 0-60 time about 10% compared to the 3.73. At highway speeds you're probably turning about 2,000-2,500 RPM now. 200-250 RPM won't affect highway speeds except at speeds which put you near redline. Mileage will drop about 5% (guess) because although the engine will run 10% faster it won't have to work as hard because of the increased torque at the wheels
I give you a lot of respect for your numbers My mpg is the same because of my BAMA Chip and I drive a lot different now. When I'm going with traffic I barely ever press the pedal. Speeding on the highway will use much more gas. But I'm A responsible adult. No tickets for me. (what a rush when you have to pass though)
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:05 PM   #12
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I always heard 3.73 manual and 4.10 auto. Thank God for overdrive.

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Old 01-26-2014, 04:27 PM   #13
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4.10 for auto and 3.75 for a standard.

2.73(7.5,8.8)-stock 94-98 gear. highway gear, poor acceleration

3.08(8.8)-stock cobra gears 94-98 better acceleration, good top end

3.27(7.5,8.8)-stock 99-04 gear. better acceleration

3.45(7.5)-3.55(8.8)-decent increase in acceleration while conserving top end drivability.

3.73(7.5,8.8)-best all around gear for acceleration and highways use

4.10(7.5,8.8)-great acceleration gear for drag racing, limits top end

4.30(8.8) or higher-really only for drag racing where a taller tire is used. not recommended on street where stock tire height is used.
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:28 PM   #14
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Thanks for all the input I still have the dilema but I had no idea of the gear math, makes sense, It's an Auto Tranny by the way, and it's usually going to be used for daily commute to work, college etc. an ocassional movie night... can't neglet the old stallion I got. I forgot it also has an H pipe configuration I didn't want it to sound too raspy like a Rice Burner and I haven't tuned anything yet.
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:31 PM   #15
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So you don't need a tuner for your speedometer. A tuner has nothing to do with your shift point? 99+ electronically controls that.

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Old 01-26-2014, 04:37 PM   #16
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By tuning I mean getting all the stuff I already got in it to work all together I know if I am going to change the gears in the pumpkin it's gonna need one of those speedometer correcting gears that go somewhere by the transmission the tuner won't work on my 98.
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:44 PM   #17
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Kewl. I got one anyway because I wasn't sure. But I know now.. Thanks.

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Old 01-26-2014, 05:07 PM   #18
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speedometer gear(on sensor)

4.10-F1150, 20tooth, black
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:08 PM   #19
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4.10 auto N O W !


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