Which year is the most reliable - Mustang Evolution

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Old 02-17-2014, 02:40 PM   #1
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Which year is the most reliable

Hey guys. I really want to buy a '99-'04 Base Mustang. I'm not sure which year to get. '00 mustangs are readily available. Just wondering if there was a difference to reliability or anything else I should know. Maybe even a link to some articles and such since I am new to the mustang (and ford) world.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:40 PM   #2
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The one with the least miles will be the most reliable. Here is the main difference in the 99-03/04.....................Comparison: 3.8 vs 3.9 V6 Mustang Engines - Mustang Evolution
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:58 PM   #3
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The only difference I see between the '99-'04 besides the 3.8 to 3.9 is the use of IMRC starting in '01. Nice article. Is that something that can be added to a 2000 mustang to give it the extra little power or is it not worth the extra cost. Again links to any articles for things fourth gen mustang owners should know would be great.
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:12 PM   #4
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not worth the trouble. No hp gain. They are electronically control in that year. There is also a difference in the engine balance. Again, no hp. gain
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:53 PM   #5
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I also just learned that these cars have an open differential. Does that mean all the power only goes to the passenger wheel and if you do a burnout it only spins one wheel? How much would it take to modify it and get power going to both wheels?
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:04 PM   #6
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V6 Mustang Modification Guide - Mustang Evolution It is best that you upgrade to a 8.8 GT rear end. This will fix that problem.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:35 PM   #7
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Great read. But that brings up another question. Does going with the 8.8 rear end lower fuel economy vs the open differential? I would assume so.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:48 PM   #8
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You loose about 6% fuel and go about 12% faster
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:51 AM   #9
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you would never notice any fuel "lose" with an 8.8 vs 7.7.....durability and ease of parts is what you'll gain.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:52 AM   #10
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*ALSO*.. get the lowest mileage, best maintained, best looking one you can afford...
I would also be weary of some hacked up-rigged crap that someone has "modified"
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:02 AM   #11
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The 7.5 is fine for a stock sixer, just don't put drag slicks on it. The open diff only powers one side at a time, it switches when it starts slipping or something. When I still had the 7.5 I could feel it switch sides.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:52 PM   #12
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I'm a little confused about the 7.7. I though mustangs either had 8.8 or 7.5. So when you do a burnout with a v6 mustang (7.5 diff) does only one wheel burnout and the other one just sits there? How is this for launching?
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:04 PM   #13
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There is no such thing as a 7.7. You are correct that the v6 comes with the 7.5 with an open differential. Our cars will do 1 wheel burnouts, and with a stock v6 you don't have enough power to spin the tires off if your launching at a reasonable rpm. If you are thinking about increasing the performance you should get an 8.8 so that you can launch better.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:07 PM   #14
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I don't want to do burnouts I just want to make sure that when I do launch (at maybe 3k rpm) I'm not just sending all power to one wheel and going nowhere. I will not be increasing performance. I just want to make sure it accelerates from a dead stop.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:11 PM   #15
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All the power will go to one wheel unless you upgrade. I have launch at 3,000 rpm and the tires spin but it isn't overly excessive. If you want to launch with little wheel spin get a t-lock or 8.8.


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Old 02-18-2014, 07:23 PM   #16
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My 4.2 cheap/budget build spun the tires a lot more with the open 7.5 and 2.73 gears, I swapped in a 8.8 with 3.27 a lot more traction, doesn't spin the tires or get sideways like it did before.
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Old 02-19-2014, 08:09 AM   #17
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The diff. between an 8.8 and 7.5 BESIDES strength, is the the 7.5 has an open carrier(1 wheel burn outs).. The 8.8 almost ALWAYS has a traction lock(both wheels). You can buy a carrier(auburn unit, traction lock, POSI) for a 7.5 to make both wheels burn out BuT, 8.8 is just a much safer stronger option.
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