What's high kms for a 99 v6 mustang? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 03-16-2014, 12:44 PM   #1
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What's high kms for a 99 v6 mustang?

My names Jessica, I recently bought a 1999 red mustang and I wanna know what high kms would be on it? Mine has about 225,000. I've got a lot of different opinions but I wanna know everyone's opinion on here. But I also know it depends how well it's been and gets taken care of. I definitely take good care and I know the previous owner did as well. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-16-2014, 01:24 PM   #2
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What's that in miles and I'll tell ya. LOL

---------- Post added at 01:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:23 PM ----------

Besides that, seafoam it in every way, shape, and form and it should be fine.
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Old 03-16-2014, 01:25 PM   #3
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It's 139, 808 miles lol
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:04 PM   #4
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What do you mean seafoam it lol
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:54 PM   #5
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Smile

Seafoam is a motor treatment that soaks into the carbon deposits in your engine/fuel lines to help clean out all the "gunk".

Some people caution seafoaming a high mileage car. The logic being that on old cars, the gunk acts as a seal for broken seals etc and cleaning it out could create problems. ME PERSONALLY: I seafoamed my car last month, its a 2004 v6 with 134,500 miles on it and had no problems. It smoothed out the idle, car drove nicer, maybe recovered lost horsepower? Not sure, previous owner probably has never done anything to engine clean so maybe.

*Side note* its also really cool stuff, it makes crazy white smoke come out of your exhaust which looks awesome and driving away makes you feel like a B.A

Anyway, buy a can ($8 with a coupon, or $11 up here in CT). Put 1/3 in gas tank, put 1/3 in a vacuum line that leads to all cylinders and before an oil change put 1/3 in crankcase. Here's a link

How To Use Seafoam on a Mustang
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:23 PM   #6
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Mine's a 00 and has 160k still no problems just the usual clutch and assembly going out but that's normal after years lol
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:39 AM   #7
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My original 3.8 blew up at 160,000.
I think it was just the headgasket(didn't really look into it), but I used it as an excuse to rebuild the 4.2 I had sitting in the garage.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:19 AM   #8
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Seafoaming cleans the interior of the engine, and looks really cool. $5 at autozone
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:49 AM   #9
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Sea foam is amazing I use it every month just to do regular maintenance since it's a daily driver it cleans every thing and boosts performance I have a 99 as well it has about 130,000 nothing's wrong with it
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:04 PM   #10
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Sweet. Is the seafoam thing easy to do? I've never heard of it
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:25 PM   #11
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Sweet. Is the seafoam thing easy to do? I've never heard of it

There's three different ways to do it, all clean different things. It's really easy.
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:26 PM   #12
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There's three different ways to do it, all clean different things. It's really easy.

I've also never done seafoaming. Care to go into any more detail about the specifics or is it all explained on the bottle or whatever? Also, how long does it take to do?
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:46 PM   #13
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seafoam is multipurpose, 100% petroleum product you can pick up at any local auto store (napa, advance, autozone, etc). It is used to clean carbon buildup from your engine, clean your injectors, clean your oil and a whole lot more.Click image for larger version

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ID:	150952 it tells you how much should be mixed with your gas but if you want to know more about putting it in the oil just ask
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:54 PM   #14
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ID:	150953 as you all should know, f-bodies require 5.5 quarts of oil. seafoam is to be added directly into your crankcase in order to cleanse the oil. yes, you heard me, you’re pouring a foreign mixture directly into your engine oil. this can be scary for newbies. never fear, seafoam is 100% petroleum. it is as harmful to your engine as water is to your skin – not harmful at all. the correct measurement for seafoam is 1.5 ounces per quart of oil in your crankcrase. simple math tells us:
(1.5) X (5.5) = 8.25 ounces
a can of seafoam is 16 ounces, so for simplicity’s sake, we’ll add half a can directly into the ENGINE OIL spout. NOTE: i recommend pouring the seafoam into your oil when the car is cold. i would not recommend pouring a room temperature liquid into 200+ degree oil after the car is hot. last thing you wanna do is shock your valve springs.
run the seafoam in your oil for NO MORE THAN 250 miles! seafoam is very agressive. your next oil change will be black as satan’s heart and likely thicker than usual. i would not recommend running this oil very long in the car as your oil filter is going to have quite the time on its hands and the oil won’t be in the best of shape afterwards. i’ll say it again. change your oil less than 250 miles after you put seafoam in your crankcase! i personally recommend running it 100 miles, then changing your oil. that should be plenty for the seafoam to get most of the gunk out.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:01 PM   #15
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here comes the fun part: cleaning the engine internals! NOTE: park your car in a VERY WELL VENTILATED area for this step as high amounts of toxic fumes will be pouring out of your car.
as you recall, we have half a can of seafoam left. this half a can will be used to clean out your cylinder banks. in order to do this, we need to locate a vacuum line to directly feed the seafoam into the engine. the favorite vacuum line is the brake booster line. for those unfamiliar with the brake booster, here is what it looks like:
the brake booster is the big, black saucer shaped object behind the brake fluid holder against the driver’s side firewall in case you can’t tell by the picture.
we will be sucking the seafoam into the brake booster hose marked by the red arrow. (note: some people prefer to suck the seafoam in through the PCV line. this is also acceptable, although i have never done it.)
first thing you wanna do is start the car and let it warm up until the engine reaches closed loop. basically, start your car and wait for the engine to warm up to normal operating temperatures (5 – 10 minutes depending on outside temperature). after the engine is nice and warm, turn the car off. now we’re going to disengage the brake booster line.
for this, you may need a pair of pliers and a flat head screwdriver. there is a little metal clip holding the brake booster hose to the brake booster. you want to take a pair of pliers, compress the clip and slide it down the hose a few inches. now that the clip is out of the way, you need to disengage the brake booster hose. this can be a bear if you’ve never done this before. my car had 80,000 miles on it when i seafoamed it and that sucker was stuck on there tight (it’s a vacuum line, it’s glued by high pressure). you may need to take the flat head screwdriver and jam it into the vacuum line and wiggle it off the brake booster. this may take a while. it took me a lot of pressure to get the hose off the booster. you may have to pull pretty hard.
once the hose is off, you’re gonna want to find a small funnel that will fit into the brake booster hose. i do not recommend simply jamming the hose into the seafoam and letting the engine suck it up. this makes it very hard to control the amount being sucked up and could flood the engine far too fast causing it to prematurely stall out.
now that you have a funnel jammed into the brake booster hose, start the car. you’ll notice your rpm’s are very high, likely around 2000-3000rpms. this is because your brake booster hose being disconnected is causing a massive vacuum leak. you’ll be able to feel the engine sucking air down the funnel.
at this point, you have half a can of seafoam left (8 ounces). you should, in your head, divide that into three equal parts. you’re going to want to SLOWLY pour the first two thirds of the seafoam left in the can into the engine via the funnel. the engine will start to sputter and choke as you pour in the seafoam. you DO NOT want your engine to stall out. go as slowly as possible pouring the seafoam into the engine as necessary so the engine does not die. do this for the first two thirds of the mixture. with the final third of the seafoam, quickly dump it down into the funnel. the idea here is to stall out the motor, suspending the remaining gulp of seafoam in the cylinder banks (don’t be alarmed if your engine bay is smoking the entire time this is happening). if your car does not stall, quickly run and turn off the key.
do not start the car for at least 15-20 minutes. we want the seafoam to soak in the motor good and hard to get all that nasty carbon out of the engine.
while the engine is sitting and soaking, with the key out of the ignition of course, get that bottle of seafoam deep creep i told you to buy.
seafoam deep creep is to be sprayed inside your throttle body. disconnect your hose running to the throttle body so your throttle body blade is showing. get a friend to push down on your gas pedal so the throttle blade opens. if you don’t have a friend at your disposal, a brick or something will do just fine to hold the gas pedal down, anything to keep the throttle blade open. again, your engine is to be OFF during all this.
once you can see inside your throttle body opening, spray seafoam deep creep into throttle body, fully soaking the blades, the bottom, top, and up and down into the intake manifold behind the throttle body. use a good amount of seafoam. don’t be too conservative, but the whole can is far from necessary. use your judgement. get it in there nice and deep but there’s no need to flood anything!
reconnect the throttle body hose, the brake booster hose, the clip back on the brake booster line and anything else you may have disturbed during the seafoaming of your car.
now we will just wait for the remaining time to pass before you can start your car back up.
okay, now that 15-20 minutes have passed, it’s time to start your baby back up. this may be a challenge. the engine is flooded with liquid so it may be a lot harder to start that usual. this is completely normal. once your car is started, let it idle for a good 10-15 minutes. your car is likely to smoke profusely. if it does not, lightly tap your gas pedal. do NOT rev the engine like a madman. when i say lightly tap, i mean gently tap the rpm’s up to no more than 1500. a blip is all that is necessary. after the car has been sitting idling for 10-15 minutes, take the car out for a spirited drive. the key word here is spirited. you want to rev your car nice and high and get all that seafoam into all the valleys of the engine. this is the perfect excuse to completely run the balls off your car. if you look behind you, you will likely see a long trail of blue smoke dusting out the entire highway. say good-bye to the culprit carbon buildup killing your power, gas mileage and causing your engine to ping.
congratulations! you have successfully seafoamed your car. be amazed as your car revs faster, your gas needle moves slower, your idle is smoother and yes, even your exhaust smells less noxious
NOTE: seafoam is O2 sensor safe and will not damage your spark plugs or catalytic converters with responsible use. this means as long as you’re not seafoaming your car constantly and using far above the recommended dosages, you should be fine. it’s probably good to do this process every 10,000 miles to keep your car in tip-top shape.
doesn’t smoke too badly, it’s because your engine just wasn’t that dirty.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:46 PM   #16
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Thank you, whiteshirt99! Couldn't have explained it any better! Gonna do my '00 stang for the first time soon!
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:49 PM   #17
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Thank you, whiteshirt99! Couldn't have explained it any better! Gonna do my '00 stang for the first time soon!

No problem
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:41 PM   #18
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Yeah I'm definitely doing this on mine. When I cleaned my IAC, the IAC itself and inside of the intake was black. Sooty as hell. I am thinking I'll just seafoam the intake and some in the gas tank. I just changed the oil so I Dont reckon I'll be putting any in there. Thanks for the write up though. I've got faith in it!

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Old 05-11-2014, 11:52 PM   #19
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Going to do this todsy
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Old 05-26-2014, 04:22 PM   #20
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So. I was doing the deep creep part of the seafoam process.. And I had the red straw attached to the nozzle and the part that holds the straw in came off and shot the straw into my throttle body... I can't see it when I look down it and I fear it might have fallen down already. What should I do.
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Old 05-26-2014, 05:53 PM   #21
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This is just ONE of the things that can go wrong wih Seafoam...

Well, start taking the intake apart until you get to the straw. This will also give you the opportunity to PROPERLY clean up the intake and throttle body.
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Old 05-26-2014, 06:05 PM   #22
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It shot the plastic part off. I've never seen that happen on a spray can. Got it out by using a shop vac on the opening and then using a metal hanger to get it over the hump.
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Old 05-26-2014, 06:10 PM   #23
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Haha.
It happens!
Nice job getting it out...
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:07 PM   #24
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I'm sorry but if you can't get it out then your car is worthless and you'll have to junk it. Scrapyards won't take a car with a small plastic straw in the intake. Sorry /:
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:06 PM   #25
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I think he wanted to say 4.6L

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Old 05-29-2014, 11:29 AM   #26
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Just sea foamed my 98, I didn't think there would be that much smoke but I was wrong
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:31 PM   #27
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I'm sorry but if you can't get it out then your car is worthless and you'll have to junk it. Scrapyards won't take a car with a small plastic straw in the intake. Sorry /:

Calme down not every one is mechanically inclined or has basic knowledge lol
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:12 AM   #28
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Calme down not every one is mechanically inclined or has basic knowledge lol

Haha, I'm not either! Trust me, if I dropped a straw in my intake I'd be posting on here trying to get some help too! I'm an idiot under the hood!!
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