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Old 12-27-2014, 10:40 PM   #1
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01 suspension build advice

Okay guys, this should be fun lol. So im on the suspension part of my roush. It sits now completely stock other than the roush rims and new tires. Brakes are solid and new and im going to be replacing booster and master cylinder so i know ive got a fully new system.

Ive got a budget of about 1800 and i want to get the BEST i can for it. Not necessarily the most amount of parts. I like buying things once and only once lol.

This will be a daily driver and part time autoXer/mountain carver. Not drastically worried about harshness but i dont want something thats full on race harsh.

Ive seen some nice kits out there.
Steeda coming in around 1650 but hear about popping springs, etc. I like it because its a pretty full kit but for what i want? Maybe a bit over board?

Eibach pro sport. 980 no CC plates no FLSFC etc. i hear good things about these progressive springs.

So, what in your opinion should be the appropriate set up and order to get the most for my buget and goals?




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Old 12-28-2014, 11:44 AM   #2
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1. Subframe connectors
2. Rear Lower Control Arms
3. Panhard Bar.
4. Torque Arm
5. Springs/shocks/struts.
6. Adjustable sway bars

Do it in that order. And I recommend all Maximum Motorsports.


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Old 12-28-2014, 09:43 PM   #3
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Look into the set up soccer is running Maximum Motorsports coil overs, caster camber plates, subframe connectors( if you have a Roush like mine with side exhaust look up Spin Tech subframe connectors) rear lower control arms. Your car will be amazing in corners with just a few things added.

I'm getting my Maximum Motorsports lower control arms and spin techs subframe connectors installed on my roush this week.


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Old 12-28-2014, 09:59 PM   #4
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Weld in Subframe connectors are the absolute first thing you should do. These cars have such a weak subframe, you can easily twist them.


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Old 12-28-2014, 10:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Chech View Post
Look into the set up soccer is running Maximum Motorsports coil overs, caster camber plates, subframe connectors( if you have a Roush like mine with side exhaust look up Spin Tech subframe connectors) rear lower control arms. Your car will be amazing in corners with just a few things added.

I'm getting my Maximum Motorsports lower control arms and spin techs subframe connectors installed on my roush this week.


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Eventually when I get a Watts Link (the one I want is still under development, it's what Brett Madsen is testing right now, and he loves it) I'll have to dump the exhaust before the axle.


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Old 12-28-2014, 10:23 PM   #6
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Eventually when I get a Watts Link (the one I want is still under development, it's what Brett Madsen is testing right now, and he loves it) I'll have to dump the exhaust before the axle.


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What about side exhaust?


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Old 12-28-2014, 10:41 PM   #7
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What about side exhaust?


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Usually side exhausts are super easy to scrape when too low.
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Old 12-28-2014, 10:55 PM   #8
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Good call on the spin tech!! Thanks!!! Will the MM not fit? Is the spintech weld in?

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Old 12-28-2014, 10:58 PM   #9
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Thanks soccor for all the advice and the list. The TA at MM will fit the 7.5 rear end? They only have 8.8 listed.

Thanks again guys! Finally get some good traction for the way this will be done

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Old 12-28-2014, 11:35 PM   #10
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Good call on the spin tech!! Thanks!!! Will the MM not fit? Is the spintech weld in?

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here

MM's subframe connectors will work but if you have side exhaust that come on the 99-04 roush excluding the 360r model you won't be able to use them since the subframe they use is too thick and will interfere with your exhaust coming out of the side. Spin tech makes a great product is is designed on our roush's to clear side exhaust set ups. And yes they too are welded into the frame. Ones that are "bolt on only" you need to stay away from along with shorter ones.


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Old 12-28-2014, 11:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake01roushv6 View Post
Thanks soccor for all the advice and the list. The TA at MM will fit the 7.5 rear end? They only have 8.8 listed.

Thanks again guys! Finally get some good traction for the way this will be done

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here
The Torque Arm only works with the 8.8. I personally think it is worth the swap, since the 8.8 is stronger and you can find the entire axle out of any Mustang in a junk yard in your year range.

Or you could do something called an offset 3 link. Thats where you remove one of the upper control arms (usually driver side) and reinforce the other torque box (what the control arm is attached to) and also upgrade that control arm. That is actually what Brett Madsen uses, the Street Unlimited autocross champion this year, in his 99 roush stage 2 (not much "roush" left in it though lol.


Believe me, these cars feel amazing with the proper suspension set up. I've got a good amount of suspension done to my 01 and it feels amazing, i can't imagine what a watts link, better tires, and tubular front end, as well as even more front weight reduction will feel like.
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:00 AM   #12
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With the 8.8 rear end, will i be buying all the same suspension i.e. springs shocks etc as i would if i had a 7.5? Any recommendation of how to fab up those side exhaust mufflers to get them off the ground a bit? Or am i pretty well stuck?

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Old 12-29-2014, 10:58 AM   #13
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Take a picture of how your side exhaust looks and post it up


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Old 12-29-2014, 11:51 AM   #14
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Suspension is all the same between the 7.5 and 8.8. Only thing that differs is that torque arm


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Old 12-29-2014, 03:12 PM   #15
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Ill try to get pics of the exhaust and hangers today when i get back from the shop. I hung them when i was 18 and havent messed with them since (almost ten years ago). Might be time to replace that rubber as ive been in arizona for a few years now lol. Soccor, whats the driving (HVN) like with the offset three link set up? I will be driving about 70 miles a day six days a week lol

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Old 12-29-2014, 03:51 PM   #16
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I haven't personally driven with an offset 3 link. I use a Torque Arm on my car. It keeps the rear end planted in turns and straight when launching.

I can hammer down and hit 2nd and completely lose traction and she will still shoot straight as an arrow. I can pretty much let go of the wheel when she is spinning through 2nd.


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Old 12-29-2014, 05:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Ill try to get pics of the exhaust and hangers today when i get back from the shop. I hung them when i was 18 and havent messed with them since (almost ten years ago). Might be time to replace that rubber as ive been in arizona for a few years now lol. Soccor, whats the driving (HVN) like with the offset three link set up? I will be driving about 70 miles a day six days a week lol

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here

The rubber hangers are cheap and take a few seconds to replace just hit them with some WD40 so they go on easily. And like soccer said subframe connectors first then some lower control arms and you'll notice a difference right off the bat

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Just got my lower control arms in today throwing them on tomorrow on the Roush.


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Old 12-29-2014, 05:20 PM   #18
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I haven't personally driven with an offset 3 link. I use a Torque Arm on my car. It keeps the rear end planted in turns and straight when launching.

I can hammer down and hit 2nd and completely lose traction and she will still shoot straight as an arrow. I can pretty much let go of the wheel when she is spinning through 2nd.


Bullitts are better than Bullets

So after reinforcing the torque boxes and getting a decent upper with spherical bearings is a good set up with the "poor mans 3 link" isn't to bad of a set up or should the MM torque be a better route?


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Old 12-29-2014, 05:21 PM   #19
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I hated using that Prothane grease with the bushings on the LCAs. Stuff is sticky and feels weird, and doesn't go away when you wash it lol


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Old 12-29-2014, 05:22 PM   #20
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Haha I lubbed that stuff up figured more the merrier


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Old 12-29-2014, 05:24 PM   #21
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I did too. After the LCAs I learned that any time I use that **** I put on latex gloves first lmao


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Old 12-29-2014, 08:01 PM   #22
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Haha ive heard the same thing. My buddy just warned me last night to not get it on my skin. He also said he doesnt think they give you enough in those little tubes. Got the car up. Yes, that rubber indeed needs to be replaced lol

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:34 PM   #23
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Haha ive heard the same thing. My buddy just warned me last night to not get it on my skin. He also said he doesnt think they give you enough in those little tubes. Got the car up. Yes, that rubber indeed needs to be replaced lol

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here

Should be an easy fix then and you still haven't posted a picture of your roush yet


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Old 12-29-2014, 10:08 PM   #24
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Not the best pictures but that rubber is definitely toast haha

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:10 PM   #25
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Ill have to get some better pictures of exhaust

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here
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Old 12-31-2014, 12:41 PM   #26
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Soccor, what do you suggest for torque box reinforcement? Does someone have a kit for it? Im going to need to buy a little millermatic i guess lol

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Old 12-31-2014, 01:08 PM   #27
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The torque box reinforcements are pretty basic. Its pretty much just metal you weld onto the torque boxes to make them stronger. I didn't need to do it because i went with a torque arm. But here is what i would have gone with if i did the offset 3 link.
Mustang Torque Box Reinforcement Kit - Upper & Lower (79-04)
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Old 01-02-2015, 12:28 AM   #28
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Haven't looked to much into reinforcing them but glanced at a guide on here before. But you have to do some thing under the rear seats for the uppers don't you?


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Old 01-02-2015, 12:01 PM   #29
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Can you guys suggest a spring rate for the rear on the pm3l? Seems ill be going this way. Now to gather as much info as possible before i start purchasing parts. Id like to do this in one fell swoop. Well as much as the budget will allow i guess.

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Old 01-02-2015, 02:06 PM   #30
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01 suspension build advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by jake01roushv6 View Post
Can you guys suggest a spring rate for the rear on the pm3l? Seems ill be going this way. Now to gather as much info as possible before i start purchasing parts. Id like to do this in one fell swoop. Well as much as the budget will allow i guess.

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here

Your best bet for a PM3L is maximum Motorsports Panhard bar, their lower control arms and an adjustable upper with a spherical bearing, and then some torque box reinforcement on the uppers, maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors (spintech subframe connectors if you have a Roush or side exhaust) and a decent set or springs(H&R, eibach, Tein) or a set of coilovers such as maximum Motorsports coilover kits, Raceland, BC racing.

With that set up your car will be an awesome corner carving machine for a street car


If you want a decent spring and not coil overs I'd highly suggest H&R super sport springs
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:12 AM   #31
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Hey guys. Im swapping out my shocks, rlca's, upper bushings, and sub frame connectors.

I'll be posting pics along the way and most likely be bugging you guys with questions. Haha

Is there anything right of the bat i should look for our just do while I'm down there?

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:33 AM   #32
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I bought the following parts for my 2001 roush v6

Mm rlca's
J&m uppers
Bil hd shock and struts
H&r super sport springs
Spring insulators
Motor&trans mounts
Spintech flsfc
Motorcraft plugs
Egr system
Brake boost/master
Exhaust hanger rubber
Gt rear sway bar
And a few little odds and ends...

The car already has

Diablo sport tuner
Bbk headers
Bbk throttle body
Bbk cai
Roush magnaflows
Pullies

Next step and final step i hope...

8.8 geared rear end.
Still unsure if ill go pan or watts...

I appreciate all the help guys!!!


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Old 02-15-2015, 04:12 PM   #33
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Looks like you have a lot to keep you busy! Can't wait to see it when it's finished


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Old 02-17-2015, 10:10 AM   #34
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Ok, quick question. I have j and m UCA's. I hear they can create too much bind when going lower AND upper control arms. Should i not put them in? I can return for a little over a hundred bucks. Since i couldnt affor to go pm3l right now i just wanted something to hold me over for a year or so. Will running oem uppers give me less snap steer?

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Old 02-17-2015, 01:47 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Ok, quick question. I have j and m UCA's. I hear they can create too much bind when going lower AND upper control arms. Should i not put them in? I can return for a little over a hundred bucks. Since i couldnt affor to go pm3l right now i just wanted something to hold me over for a year or so. Will running oem uppers give me less snap steer?

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here

I wouldn't install uppers. The rubber bushings in the stock ones are pushing the limits already. Once you go to poly bushings or metal ones you run the chance of totally ripping apart your torque boxes that your uppers bolt to. The reason why the uppers on these cars cause such a problem is because it's trying to do two different jobs at once causing binding issues. Once you change the set up with either a Watts link, Panhard+ torque arm, or getting reinforcements welded on to your torque boxes and run a single upper control on thus creating the PM3L.


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