HR Super Sport Springs for the New Edge V6's - Mustang Evolution

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Old 12-31-2014, 07:14 PM   #1
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HR Super Sport Springs for the New Edge V6's

So AM says the HR SS Springs coupe will give a 1.7 front drop and 1.6 rear drop...will that go for the V6 as well? Because the V6 was lighter than the V8 so how much low would the V6 go? If the V6 only goes 1.4 or 1.5 is there really a need for camber plates then because it's a V6 and not a GT? What do you think guys?

Or would this actually give a drop as advertised for the V6's 99-04?
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:09 AM   #2
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The springs will lower as much as a GT would, the weight of a car doesn't affect how much lower it becomes.
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Old 01-01-2015, 04:21 PM   #3
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I'm disappointed in AM's online customer service then


The guy told me it deals with the weight of the car. The more weight, the lower the car will go on the GT than the V6...
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Old 01-01-2015, 04:49 PM   #4
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Nope its mainly just quite literally how tall the spring is, thats why you can cut your stock springs shorter instead of buying aftermarket springs to save money. But I don't really recommend cutting them, just get any after market springs that are made for 99-04 mustang coupes (v6,Gt). dont get into the brand names either, I bought random *** amazon springs that I dont even know what the name of them was, and they worked great lol. 1.6 dropped in the front and 2.0 inches in the back Click image for larger version

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Old 01-01-2015, 05:05 PM   #5
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thanks
I wasn't planning on cutting them anyway. I would've done something wrong.


I'm going with the HR SS because I'm getting them used and for a good price. It only has 2000 miles in the front and 4000 miles in the back
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Old 01-01-2015, 10:30 PM   #6
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The height of the spring is the main factor. I do know for a fact the H&R Super Sports will lower the car the advertised amount and some. I have them on my 03 and the front is over 2" and the rear is ~1.8". This is without all isos in the front and X2 ball joints, and one iso removed in the rear.

At first it appeared they only dropped the car 1.5" but once they settled it came right in. I couldn't be happier. They are a bit stiffer than stock but the handling improvements are worth it.

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Old 01-01-2015, 11:15 PM   #7
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Damn that looks sexy!
You running CC plates on it? I'm buying the springs this weekend and getting the cc plates next week. Can't wait to install them! Also what do you think about getting longtubes? Would it clear?


I'm getting a new exhaust set up and definitely want long tubes and an off road H lol


Btw I thought the springs were only a 1.7 drop in the front. How are you getting over 2''?? Does removing the iso's give it that much of a drop?
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:21 PM   #8
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Or go coilovers and get a huge drop and way better handling


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Old 01-01-2015, 11:29 PM   #9
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Not enough money and I don't want too much of a drop. Living in the dangerous roads in the tri state area with a car that has more than 2'' drop is not a good idea. The potholes here are ridiculous
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:39 PM   #10
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Damn that looks sexy!
You running CC plates on it? I'm buying the springs this weekend and getting the cc plates next week. Can't wait to install them! Also what do you think about getting longtubes? Would it clear?


I'm getting a new exhaust set up and definitely want long tubes and an off road H lol


Btw I thought the springs were only a 1.7 drop in the front. How are you getting over 2''?? Does removing the iso's give it that much of a drop?
Yes! I forgot to add that. Go with Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt plates, nothing else. They are a damn fine product and are made in the USA which is always nice. The shop I went to for the alignment said he could've got the car to spec, even with the H&R SS springs, and I could've probably just used camber bolts, but it's nice to have the plates on and they can be useful for another application in the future.

I've heard both good and bad about running longtubes with a drop like that. Some guys don't have any problems, somd do. I really think it depends on the roads/driving style more than anything. I say leave isos in and you'll have not problems with the longtube clearance.

The X2 ball joints I installed come with a spacer to "maintain" the ride height, so I left that out which lowered the car another ~.5", bringing the front drop just over 2". If your isos, aren't terribly worn leaving them out might net you another .25-.375". Mine were somewhat worn, so I think more of the added drop came from the ball joints.
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:39 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by fordmustang3.8 View Post
I'm disappointed in AM's online customer service then


The guy told me it deals with the weight of the car. The more weight, the lower the car will go on the GT than the V6...
No, they are correct. He has it wrong. Weight of the car DOES matter.

What happens if you sit on the hood of your car, notice it sink down a bit, or you put a ton of stuff in your trunk. It'll sink down a bit. That is the exact thing that is happening. Less weight means the spring pushes the body of the car up just a little higher than the other car with more weight.

So a V8 that weighs more than a V6 given that they have the same exact springs, the V8 will push the springs down a bit. Only way you prevent that is if the spring is super stiff. But pretty much every "lowering spring" on the market is the same as far as stiffness. If you really want to get creative you need coilovers.

My coilovers are AT LEAST twice as stiff as stock springs (stock springs in my car were about 650#, my coilovers are 375# but thats a different measurement. if you look at them at the same measurement my coilovers are around 1100-1300# in the traditional measurement), but they are also adjustable, and i can get different height springs. So there is a lot of playing around i can do with it.

Especially after i plan on taking at least 200 pounds off the nose of the car in the future, it all does make a difference.

Ever seen a car with no engine in it? Talk about 4x4 wheel gap.
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:46 PM   #12
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The springs will lower as much as a GT would, the weight of a car doesn't affect how much lower it becomes.
Have you ever seen CompOrange's car with the Tein S-Techs? They are an advertised 2.3" front and 2" rear on the GT, when he installed them on his car the front sat higher than the rear due to the weight difference.
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Old 01-02-2015, 12:19 AM   #13
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Have you ever seen CompOrange's car with the Tein S-Techs? They are an advertised 2.3" front and 2" rear on the GT, when he installed them on his car the front sat higher than the rear due to the weight difference.

They are also cheaper then H&Rs like 179 or less I think from when I was looking into them. Just have to search a bit to see who carries them for cheap.


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Old 01-02-2015, 05:37 AM   #14
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No, they are correct. He has it wrong. Weight of the car DOES matter.

What happens if you sit on the hood of your car, notice it sink down a bit, or you put a ton of stuff in your trunk. It'll sink down a bit. That is the exact thing that is happening. Less weight means the spring pushes the body of the car up just a little higher than the other car with more weight.

So a V8 that weighs more than a V6 given that they have the same exact springs, the V8 will push the springs down a bit. Only way you prevent that is if the spring is super stiff. But pretty much every "lowering spring" on the market is the same as far as stiffness. If you really want to get creative you need coilovers.

My coilovers are AT LEAST twice as stiff as stock springs (stock springs in my car were about 650#, my coilovers are 375# but thats a different measurement. if you look at them at the same measurement my coilovers are around 1100-1300# in the traditional measurement), but they are also adjustable, and i can get different height springs. So there is a lot of playing around i can do with it.

Especially after i plan on taking at least 200 pounds off the nose of the car in the future, it all does make a difference.

Ever seen a car with no engine in it? Talk about 4x4 wheel gap.
Okay then...how much lower will the V6 be then? And if it doesn't even do a 1.7 drop in the front and 1.6 in the back, what the hell is the point of getting it? Might as well just get Eibach that are specific for the V6 that gives a 1.5 drop

And if it sits higher then should I get CC plates? You don't need CC plates on a car that won't go lower than 1.5. It's a waste of money.
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Old 01-02-2015, 08:59 AM   #15
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Okay then...how much lower will the V6 be then? And if it doesn't even do a 1.7 drop in the front and 1.6 in the back, what the hell is the point of getting it? Might as well just get Eibach that are specific for the V6 that gives a 1.5 drop

And if it sits higher then should I get CC plates? You don't need CC plates on a car that won't go lower than 1.5. It's a waste of money.

I wouldn't say it's a waste of money to get caster camber plates per say for any thing that doesn't go under 1.5" of lowering. Caster camber plates are nice even if you have a stock height car. It gives you a heck of a lot more movement for alignments then the crappy stock ones.


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Old 01-02-2015, 11:56 AM   #16
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Hey Soccor, is there a formula that you know of to get the wheel rate as opposed to the spring rate?

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:04 PM   #17
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Yea. There is something on MM's site about it I believe. I'll see if I can find it.


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Old 01-02-2015, 01:26 PM   #18
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Ok here it is. Its common Q&As of coil overs.

Coil-Over Suspension Frequently Asked Questions

For example here is mine.

NOTE: they give the wheel rate % for fox bodies, the chassis are very very similar though to the SN95 so we will use those for now.

Stock front springs: 600lbs
Stock rear springs: 250lbs

Front coilovers: 375lbs
Rear Coilovers: 250lbs

Stock wheel ratio: 25%
Coilover wheel ratio: 90%

Stock front wheel rate: 600x.25 = 250
Stock rear wheel rate: 250x.25 = 62.5

Front coil over wheel rate: 375x.9 = 337.5
Rear coil over wheel rate: 250x.9 = 225

So lets plug the coil over numbers back in to find the standard spring rate. Let R be the variable.

Front: R x .25 = 337.5
R = 1350lbs

Rear: R x .25 = 225
R = 900lbs

So if you convert everything over to standard spring rates my front went from 600lbs to 1350lbs, and my rear went from 250lbs to 900lbs.

This is just a basis given everything equal because position of the strut, caster, and camber settings can change the wheel ratio.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:07 PM   #19
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Wait now I am confused
So the HR SS are not advertised for the 6 and will give a 1.3-1.5 drop correct? I dont get it. Then what about the Eibach springs? Ive seen the ones specifically only for v6s. They are 1.5. I compared the HR SS on a 6 to a Eibach for a 6 and HR was much lower...

I'm so confused
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:10 PM   #20
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Wait now I am confused
So the HR SS are not advertised for the 6 and will give a 1.3-1.5 drop correct? I dont get it. Then what about the Eibach springs? Ive seen the ones specifically only for v6s. They are 1.5. I compared the HR SS on a 6 to a Eibach for a 6 and HR was much lower...

I'm so confused
The main point at first is that since the V6 has less weight on the nose the springs won't compress as much like they would on a GT. Probably around .2-.3 less than it would on a GT.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:11 PM   #21
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Wait now I am confused
So the HR SS are not advertised for the 6 and will give a 1.3-1.5 drop correct? I dont get it. Then what about the Eibach springs? Ive seen the ones specifically only for v6s. They are 1.5. I compared the HR SS on a 6 to a Eibach for a 6 and HR was much lower...

I'm so confused

Running GT springs like H&Rs will probably only give you say 1.4-1.5 out of the 1.6" drop it says because your engine is lighter. You can run a GT's springs perfectly fine


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Old 01-02-2015, 02:13 PM   #22
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Add some weight to the front of the car if you want a lower drop. It'll handle worse, but it'll look better.
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Old 01-02-2015, 07:07 PM   #23
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How is Sonic's car so low then with the H&R?
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Old 01-02-2015, 07:29 PM   #24
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How is Sonic's car so low then with the H&R?

Depends on what you consider low. The Super sports are really low springs. I've seen them on a GT and they are a bit lower than his car.


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Old 01-02-2015, 10:06 PM   #25
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How is Sonic's car so low then with the H&R?
Keep in mind I left the spacer out that was included with the ball joint kit. This added the extra drop. Like I said before, the initial drop was around 1.5" and after settling was ~2". If I would have put the spacer in the initial drop probably would have been 1" and ~1.5" after settling.

The drop I have is good enough for me..obviously I could go more and use a "better", more adjustable system like coilovers or bags but can't see spending that type of money on a 200hp v6 that's not going to be corner carving auto cross events.

Plus I already scrape and can't enter half the driveways around here, any lower and it'd just be ridiculous.
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:47 PM   #26
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So basically I'm looking at a 1.5 drop from these springs then?

Sounds good to me. I'm not getting canister camber plates then. A 1.5 drop isn't low enough for it to cause any issues.

Oh well. I saved $150
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Old 01-03-2015, 02:13 AM   #27
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You will be hit or miss with those springs and needing CC plates. Don't be surprised if they can't align it right


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Old 01-03-2015, 03:33 AM   #28
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You will be hit or miss with those springs and needing CC plates. Don't be surprised if they can't align it right


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That and most shops just don't wanna do the work to get it aligned properly.


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Old 01-03-2015, 10:22 AM   #29
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I am not getting it installed from a shop. Crooks want 300$ from me where it's just a one or two hour job. I'm doing it with a friend. It isn't hard at all
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:17 AM   #30
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From what i hear the alignment can be a total pain. How do you plan on adjusting? I've never done it myself but would love to learn how. Is there a pattern in what to adjust? I.E. caster, camber, toe? My buddy said he can get fairly close with sting, blocks and a tape but never as good as they can get at a shop with the machine..

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Old 01-03-2015, 11:30 AM   #31
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I am not getting it installed from a shop. Crooks want 300$ from me where it's just a one or two hour job. I'm doing it with a friend. It isn't hard at all

You still need to take it somewhere to get aligned properly after install.


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Old 01-03-2015, 12:28 PM   #32
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You still need to take it somewhere to get aligned properly after install.


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My buddy lowered his car to about 1.5 and didn't have any issues with getting it aligned without cambers...
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Old 01-03-2015, 12:30 PM   #33
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My buddy lowered his car to about 1.5 and didn't have any issues with getting it aligned without cambers...

He was pretty lucky. I've seen cars with 2" that didn't need them. I've also seen cars lowered only 1" that needed them. I didn't even lower my car until I got CC plates.

I always say, just do it right the first time.


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Old 01-03-2015, 01:38 PM   #34
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He was pretty lucky. I've seen cars with 2" that didn't need them. I've also seen cars lowered only 1" that needed them. I didn't even lower my car until I got CC plates.

I always say, just do it right the first time.


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I totally agree with that!!!! Do it once, close the hood and drive baby

one day i hope to have something pretty damn witty here
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