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Old 03-16-2016, 10:13 PM   #1
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Hooray for PATS...

Quite contrary to the title, PATS is screwing me over here. I tried searching the forum for something similar to my problem, but I feel like my situation is, to an extent, needing more specificity.

So, Tuesday morning I took my car into my trusted mechanic to have the clutch replaced, power steering fluid flushed and a leak fixed. When I arrived, I returned it to the stock tuning, then handed the key off and drove home with my dad. They didn't being working on it until today. But when they were going to start, they gave me a call, because for some reason my key was being treated like an uncoded one, so I brought my other coded key and saw that when the key is in the ON position, the radiator starts whirring like when a new tune is being loaded onto it, the instrument cluster has all the same lights blinking as when it's being tuned as well. When trying to start the car, the engine cranks but refuses to turn over and the THEFT light blinks rapidly.

We tried using the key fob to lock/unlock the doors to reset it, disconnecting the battery, I tried to tune it, but the SF4 "could not communicate" with the car, and the other coded key did not work either. There's also a little blue box bolted into a spot near the OBD-II port, with wires that feed into the same area, which deals with PATS. This, clearly, is not a factory module.

I found a little manual inside of my center console that says "System 3" or "System 4" security system on it, with official Ford and Lincoln logos and whatnot. It also says it's intended for '98, '99 and '00 models, and my car is an '01. A diagram in this manual looks like the blue box under the steering wheel area, and another part of the booklet mentions arming and disarming the device, arming it results in NO-START conditions to my understanding. Never realized what the box was until today, and never had a problem with PATS before.

But this really sucks, because now my car is just a brick at the spot I parked it at my mechanic's shop and I'm leaving town tomorrow. Why is PATS triggered? Is it due to me returning it to the stock tuning and doing something wrong? Or is it just PATS getting old and malfunctioning?

I really hope for an easy solution here, I don't wish to tow my car 25 miles over to Ford. Any help or info is greatly appreciated.

DISCLAIMER: I'm also not truly sure if PATS is at fault here
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2001 3.8L - Cheap SR CAI, SF4/X4 w/ 91 Octane Bama Tuning, Pacesetter H-pipe and Borla Stingers, Auburn HP Limited-Slip Diff, FRPP 4.10 gears

Coming EVENTUALLY: BBK headers, Eibach Springs, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:34 AM   #2
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idk but gut tells me it's a tune related problem. I would disconnect battery for 10 minutes then try reloading tune, but you may want to talk with Bama 1st to see if they have an idea.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:39 AM   #3
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idk but gut tells me it's a tune related problem. I would disconnect battery for 10 minutes then try reloading tune, but you may want to talk with Bama 1st to see if they have an idea.
That's what it seemed like to me too. Unfortunately, doing anything will have to wait until I get back
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The chargers are slugs lol
2001 3.8L - Cheap SR CAI, SF4/X4 w/ 91 Octane Bama Tuning, Pacesetter H-pipe and Borla Stingers, Auburn HP Limited-Slip Diff, FRPP 4.10 gears

Coming EVENTUALLY: BBK headers, Eibach Springs, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:57 PM   #4
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So, as it happens, they could not get the car to start. They had it towed to Ford who recoded a key, which solved the problem. 240 dollars for just that Oh, and they blamed the problem on the SF4. Anyways, my mom drove it home (since I'm still out of town) and she noticed that the speedometer is completely dead and functionless. Doesn't move at all.

So, she turned around and went back to Ford saying that it doesn't work and Ford basically gave her the "well, you have so much aftermarket stuff on here we wouldn't even know where to start/it couldn't have been us, blame all your aftermarket stuff". Okay, Ford, first off: none of the stuff I have interact with the computer whatsoever aside from the tuner, secondly, they claimed it was plugged in and whatnot, it wasn't. I put it back on the stock tuning when I dropped it off at the mechanic right before all of this, then swiftly unplugged it as always.

My best guess is that the guys at the mechanic store messed around with it too much and screwed something up, since the head mechanic, Martin, whom usually does all the work on my car, was gone having surgery.

I also thought up a new conspiracy theory today. Last Monday, I was driving perhaps a bit fast for the road I was on, and there was an intersection with fairly deep gutters. So, the road dips for the first gutter, then raises back up and becomes level, then dips down sharply again. As I was driving through this at 40, the front end of my car violently slammed down on the asphalt. It hit the bottom part of the bumper about a foot and a half back where there's the little rubber flap thing that goes perpendicular to the car, just hit straight up. No visible damage, but it was very loud and jarring. I'm starting to think that that caused something to shake loose. But I don't know

And both Ford and my mechanic blamed the SF4. I didn't know tuners were so harmful to the ECU(?), I suppose. Any truth to that statement?
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The chargers are slugs lol
2001 3.8L - Cheap SR CAI, SF4/X4 w/ 91 Octane Bama Tuning, Pacesetter H-pipe and Borla Stingers, Auburn HP Limited-Slip Diff, FRPP 4.10 gears

Coming EVENTUALLY: BBK headers, Eibach Springs, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:31 AM   #5
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tuners can brick your car....think of updating your computer, that is what you are doing.

I suggest only doing it at home, have the battery fully charged and preferably on a charger (think steady voltage) when tuning turn off (and leave off) all electrical things in the car IE radio/fan/lights. Do not pop the trunk/doors/windows etc. It will decrease the odds of your having issues
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strange Mud View Post
tuners can brick your car....think of updating your computer, that is what you are doing.

I suggest only doing it at home, have the battery fully charged and preferably on a charger (think steady voltage) when tuning turn off (and leave off) all electrical things in the car IE radio/fan/lights. Do not pop the trunk/doors/windows etc. It will decrease the odds of your having issues
Well, now I have P0722 and P0720, car acts like it's in neutral and I hit a rev limit at 4000 rpm in drive. So guess I have to get the transmission yanked for that output sensor. Why are all these things failing at the same time?

Oh, and I did try retuning way back when the car got bricked, it couldn't even communicate with the car to do anything at all
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Originally Posted by natestang07 View Post
The chargers are slugs lol
2001 3.8L - Cheap SR CAI, SF4/X4 w/ 91 Octane Bama Tuning, Pacesetter H-pipe and Borla Stingers, Auburn HP Limited-Slip Diff, FRPP 4.10 gears

Coming EVENTUALLY: BBK headers, Eibach Springs, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:26 PM   #7
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Listen to Mud and contact Bama.
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:04 PM   #8
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Listen to Mud and contact Bama.
Message sent to Bama. I'll keep you guys updated, if anybody cares
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Originally Posted by natestang07 View Post
The chargers are slugs lol
2001 3.8L - Cheap SR CAI, SF4/X4 w/ 91 Octane Bama Tuning, Pacesetter H-pipe and Borla Stingers, Auburn HP Limited-Slip Diff, FRPP 4.10 gears

Coming EVENTUALLY: BBK headers, Eibach Springs, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:10 AM   #9
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not really but we're polite so we'll pretend to.

good luck.
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:19 PM   #10
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Yes we care, that's we're ALL on here.

And bonus- we might learn something.
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