Why FMS "C" Springs? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-02-2004, 11:55 PM   #1
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Why FMS "C" Springs?

Why is everyone so hooked up on C springs rather then B springs? Out of all the threads I have read about this subject they all say the same thing "FMS C Springs are the way to go if you are planing on lowering your car. You get good performance, but you are going to get a little bit of a harsh ride. But man is it worth it, I love them." I can see getting them if the car you have them on is not your day to day driver or if you need the performance 60% of the time you are in your car. So, for us guys who have to drive our Stangs from day to day and don't get on the pedal 60% of the time while we are driving. Isn't this why FMS made the B's for us other kind of drivers. Think about it, you get the very same drop, Also, do to the fact that the B springs are a progressive spring you get a smooth ride when you are not on the pedal and a good performance ride when you are. This sounds to me like Technology at it's greatest. I'm not tring to be difficult at all. I just want to make sure when i buy something I'm getting the best product. Plus, I'm not going to be racing my car on any track or strip. So, If the C springs are the better of the two than please give me some feedback. Thanks in advance
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Old 01-03-2004, 02:26 AM   #2
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B springs don't drop as much and basically aren't worth it to most people. I saw two friends, one with B's (accidental misorder) and another with C's and there is a difference in the set we saw. C's aren't even worth it to some people. C's are even a street friendly compromise compared to better quality eibach/h&r springs that def. need matching shocks and struts.
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Old 01-03-2004, 02:27 PM   #3
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i have had eibach and fms Cs and they ride the same, if i put Cs in your car and you didnt know and drove it you would not know the difference. Cs are good for 1.1 -1.2 inches if you want that go Cs
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Old 01-03-2004, 04:51 PM   #4
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They're also cheaper than dirt! B springs are 50% more or so? I forget.
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Old 01-03-2004, 04:53 PM   #5
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well arnt B springs Eibach, when i orderd mein i think i got B springs or something (my old car's springs) and they were eibachs when i got them in from teh shop.
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Old 02-22-2004, 08:50 PM   #6
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Here is the difference between ford c's and b'

Ford Motorsports B M-5300-B 425-530 200-300 1.50 0.75
Ford Motorsports C M-5300-C 650 200-300 1.50 0.75

The B springs are softer almost that same as stock
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Old 02-22-2004, 10:58 PM   #7
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Actually
"B" springs are progressive meaning they are soft most of the time but stiffen when they are pushed. Very similar to stock
"C" springs are specific meaning the rate of compression does not change. They are always stiff and there performance is well above stock and anyone who has ridden in my car will tell you it is not lacking in handling.
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Old 02-23-2004, 12:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger Dude
"B" springs are progressive
yup. ding ding ding, we have a winner. progressive is good for daily driving, but sucks for handling, IMO
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:48 PM   #9
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Cool, its true you can learn something every day thanks for the info
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:28 PM   #10
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You can get progressives that are a lot stiffer than those B springs which will go a lot better though. Just depends on what you get and how much you want to spend I guess.
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:28 PM   #11
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What are Eibach classified as?
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:34 PM   #12
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Some of them are fixed rate, some are progressive, Saleen racecraft are progressive and so are Rosch I believe, Global West has some nice progressive springs, there are some really good progressives out there. The front ones I am putting on my GT are Cobra R Eibachs which are progressives and very stiff. Holdin out for a little nicer weather, lol.
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:39 PM   #13
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Progrssive correct?
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:04 PM   #14
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That is what the box says
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:10 PM   #15
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Sure does, its right there in big print!
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:11 PM   #16
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What are the pictures of struts and such on the side of the box, are they recommending certain kinds of struts with them?
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:38 PM   #17
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What about super sport H&R???
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:56 PM   #18
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H&R are supposed to be very good springs, I have no personal experinence with them, but from all I have heard they are very good products.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger Dude
That is what the box says
doh
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Old 02-24-2004, 05:53 AM   #20
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Bottom line is that Ford "C" springs are really good springs!!! Are there better??maybe, but there is no better value in new springs. At $110 anything better is almost double the price!!!

That is a fact!!!!
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:44 AM   #21
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Yes, very good value for the money! My only complaint is they have to be cut, other than that I would have bought them long ago.
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Old 02-27-2004, 07:47 PM   #22
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the rears do have to be cut but it only takes like 5 min its not nearly as hard as one would think.
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:20 PM   #23
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$288 at speed concepts for C springs and mach 1 shocks and struts, quite a deal, im probably gonna get em soon.

http://speedconcepts.net/ford_racing_suspension.htm


Rick, what do you mean that C springs HAVE to be cut? Dangerdude, are yours cut?
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Old 02-27-2004, 09:26 PM   #24
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To get a level drop they cut the top ring or dead coil off the rear spring otherwise the rear of the car only drops like 1/2 an inch and there is a rake, since I don't have these I can't say for sure, but that is what I have heard.
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Old 02-28-2004, 09:33 AM   #25
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The rear Springs to have a even drop require the dead coil be cut

Here is a nice article on C springs and how to install and cut them
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/springs.htm

and a pic
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Old 02-28-2004, 10:39 AM   #26
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how do you cut the springs? what kinda tools?
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Old 02-28-2004, 10:59 AM   #27
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A pnuematic die grinder with a cutting wheel = the fastest less than 5 minutes
A Electric hand held grinder with cutting wheel = 5 minutes
A Dremel tool with cutting wheel= slow very slow and you will use a few wheels
A hacksaw = very very slow
chewing it with your teeth = an eternity

If you dont have pnuematic tools just go to a muffler shop and have them cut it for you or a machine shop. It will be very cheap. You could also go to a Harbour Freight or Northern tools and get a electric hand held grinder and buy a cutting disc for it.
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Old 02-28-2004, 01:19 PM   #28
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i used a pull down cutting wheel type thing choped both off in under 2 min total, its just knida hard to get to the right spot, a dremel can be used for sure though those little buggers will cut though anything, i notched a good spot on my old engien block to get the cam out with mine
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Old 02-28-2004, 01:46 PM   #29
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A pull down cutting wheel type thingy ???? HAHAHHAHAHAHAH

That will do it if you have a table top cutting saw with the appropriate type cutting wheel on it. Please you young guys do not try this with your dad's mitre saw with a wood cutting blade!!!!!!! Dont laugh people have done it
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Old 02-28-2004, 05:49 PM   #30
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well i dont know what you call them, we had to buy a carbine blade for it and we held it down on the flat area under the saw and pulled it down and it cut her right off.
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Old 02-28-2004, 07:57 PM   #31
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yes they do work nice so anyone out there want their's cut go to a machine shop, Fabrication shop or a muffler shop. If you are in Highschool or College take it to the autoshop.
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Old 02-28-2004, 07:59 PM   #32
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I kind of like the rake, but I also like to cary a extra person or two.
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Old 02-29-2004, 08:58 PM   #33
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Back in the late 60s and early 70s the thing around this area was to put air shocks on cars and raise the rear up and put huge tires under the back and normal size or even skinny tires on the front with the front low. Now that was a rake, LOL
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Old 03-01-2004, 06:21 AM   #34
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Are you talking about uncut C springs. If you are that is cool to If you look at the real Roush cars they all have rake.
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Old 03-08-2004, 01:17 AM   #35
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So what's wrong with cutt'n da springs McDude? :wave: If yuh do it fore you put'em in it's no sweat.

How's the ride with your IRS?
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