Mustang Evolution Forum banner

SWAP?

2K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  MadHatter 
#1 ·
I want to get my car from the low 190 hp to close to 500 hp. I know that keeping the 3.8 isn't an option so what are my options(budget)? I know there's coyote and LS but coyote is basic and I have no clue which LS would be best and there's so many different LS motors. I have also thought about doing a 2JZ-GTE swap which would be very unique but expensive. Any help/tips?
 
#3 ·
Any LS engine will get you to 500ish hp. Most guys take them out of trucks or vans. 4.8, 5.3, or 6.0 litre... Bigger is always better.
A coyote swap will likely cost a bit more.

If you need to pass the scrutiny of your local government emissions compliance testing, both of the aforementioned engines may prove to be challenging. In that case, I would recommend sticking with an engine that came in the SN95's... Like a 4.6 litre 2V or 4V engine with some sort of forced induction. Or a Terminator engine, if you can find one.
Those engines would be a comparatively easy swap.
 
#4 ·
There are several variations in the LS engine family.

First you have the Gen 3 and Gen 4 engines. Gen 3 were generally between 1996 and 2007. All LS coded engines had aluminum blocks, some of the non performance engines also had aluminum blocks. Most of the trucks/vans/SUV's had iron blocks.

Gen 3 was the LS1/LS6 and the 4.8-6.0 truck engines.

Gen 4 was between 2005 to now. In the Gen 4 engines you had the LS2/LS3/LS7/LSA/LS9, these all had aluminum blocks and were the performance versions of the Gen 4 series. On the truck side, there were 4.8-6.2L versions. Same story with the iron and aluminum blocks. Some were, some weren't.

Many of the parts between the Gen 3 and Gen 4 engines are interchangeable. Also, regardless of engine size, the blocks were the same physical size. If you can fit a 4.8, you can also fit a 7.0L.

As for power, any of the LS engines can make 400 - 450 whp with only an intake, cam and heads. The larger displacement engines obviously will make more power and torque. I've seen some 4.8L engines put down 450 whp and rev out to 7,500 RPM. I've also seen people get a complete 4.8L pull out with 200k miles for less than $350 and throw a turbo setup on it and make 1,000+ whp and run it for several seasons before the engine let go.

Essentially, the things to keep in mind are the reluctor wheel which is either a 24x or 58x, oil pan (most swaps recommend the 98-02 fbody pan), drive by wire vs throttle cable and aluminum block vs iron block and finally, what transmission are you going to run.

Expect to pay between $300 - $600 for a decent 100,000+ mile 4.8 or 5.3 pull out complete with wiring harness. The larger engines and aluminum blocks likely will cost more.

If your car came with a 4.6, you could just buy adapter plates for really cheap and then it's just a drop in job as far as getting the engine mounted in the car, not sure whats required with a V6, I would assume getting a K member and dropping it in. Wiring and all that fun stuff is it's own thing. You could even just go with a carb setup for cheap if you wanted to.

It's really a straight forward swap, as far as engine swaps go.

Here is a decent thread showing an LS swap into a 94 Mustang V6 - 94 Mustang 5.3 LS Swap - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
#8 ·
Which is a giant downgrade from a well done 2v, 3v, 4v or obviously Coyote. Unless you are doing a 408 in front of an automatic or a DART 5.0 based 363 in front of a T56.

His best bet is to sell his car and if he can afford it, get a new 2018 GT which will put down 500 right out of the gate with an exhaust and tune, or if he's on a budget... if he's on a budget he ain't doing 500hp. If he can afford a 500hp build he can afford a 2018 GT.

A 5.0 pushrod block will split right down the middle at 500hp without a SPOT on tune and then you are still on borrowed time with cap walk.
 
#9 ·
Unless like me your neighbor owns a machine shop that has a 5.0 dart that was ordered and never picked up for your build. So yeah you are right I’ve seen those stock 5.0 split not pretty. Why I am keeping mine stock while I build motor at neighbors machine shop and gather all parts.
 
#10 ·
Well that's a benefit then. 363 Dart with a turbo kit in front of a worked AOD and strap your balls to your leg or they'll wind up in the trunk when you floor it.
 
#11 ·
That is the plan. Haven’t had time to build another car since I got out army. my old built twin turbo cougar hauled. One of my team members had surprised me with it when I came back from second tour. Then family wrecked it while on 3rd tour. Broke my heart. But now I’ll get this stang built someday.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top