When modding a car from the start: (order of mods list for best results!!!)

RGR · 03-28-2004, 07:10 AM

Stage 1

Dual Exhaust (2.25" for Naturally Aspirated Cars and 2.5" for Blown Cars and some big NA strokers)
Rear End Gears & Traction-Lok (3.73 for Manual & 4.10 for Automatic)
Cold Air Intake
Underdrive Pullies
Short Throw Shifter (5-Speed) or Shift Kit (Automatic)

Stage 2

Torque Converter (Automatics)
Suspension Upgrade (Lowering Springs, Shocks & Struts, Rear Sway Bar and Strut Tower Brace).
Throttle Body (94-98) with crossover tube matching.
Custom Burned Chip, but most do not need this until Stage 3.

Stage 3

Ported and Polished Upper Intake, Lower Intake & Heads
Custom Ground Camshaft
Pushrods and Springs
Ignition System (Only needed if Forced Induction or Nitrous is used)
Fuel System Upgrades (190/255 lph fuel pump, bigger injectors & adjustable fuel pressure regulator)
Custom Chip necessary at this level for max power! Usually worth at least 10-15 RWHP and mucho low end torque.

Stage 4

Built 3.8 or 4.2L Engine (big bore best )
Supercharger, Turbocharger, Nitrous
Forged Internals (sic) Forged rods and pistons are a good idea.
MAF (all years) and TB (99^) stock MAF is adequate before this.

And now a comment on how mods work together, from an old post
I made a while back.

What ever the last major mod is will
seem like the missing link... That means that if you do all but the cam, then
decide to do the cam, it will seem like the cam added the most HP. But a cam
alone is good for maybe 15 HP on unported heads/intakes, (not SPI though!)
but it would add maybe 25-30 if changed last. All the mods work together...
the stock cam will hold back the porting and unported heads/intakes will limit
the HP produced by a cam swap. (SPI is a great candidate for unported heads
and new cam, the stock head flow is awesome!)

It is well worth it to change the cam! Also easier to do when you have the
heads off there, as most of the junk that you remove for a cam swap is
removed when you take off the heads. But you can change a cam with the
heads on, and the engine stays in the car too. Check out the shop manual on
this procedure.

If you have any questions or think something should be added or moved please post. Please keep this on topic as well.

Rick0636 · 03-28-2004, 09:22 AM

So basically, according to your list RGR, not sure it applies to GTs, I have basically a Stage II, maybe beginning stage III GT?? Minus the torque converter? I really see not much sense in me investing in a torque converter since I am not into drag racing...? Or should I?

RGR · 03-31-2004, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick0636

So basically, according to your list RGR, not sure it applies to GTs, I have basically a Stage II, maybe beginning stage III GT?? Minus the torque converter? I really see not much sense in me investing in a torque converter since I am not into drag racing...? Or should I?

I'd say the list is pretty close to what one would do with GT's also,
but I would not use stages to describe the level of work, that was just
to make it in distinct levels that tend to work together in cost and
effectiveness.
The groups (stages) tend to be natural points of progression. (IMO)

RGR · 04-19-2004, 05:24 AM

Yes, it is good to follow the list somewhat, the mods work together.

RGR · 08-07-2004, 04:41 PM

Adding this above:

Good Q's, but what ever the _last_ major mod is will
seem like the missing link... That means that if U do all but the cam, then decide to do the cam, it will seem like the cam added the most HP. But a cam alone is good for maybe 15 HP on unported heads/intakes, but it would add maybe 25-30 if changed last. All the mods work together... the stock cam will hold back the porting and unported heads/intakes will limit the HP produced by a cam swap.
It is well worth it to change the cam! Also easier to do when U have the heads off there, as most of the junk that U remove for a cam swap is removed when U take off the heads. But U can change a cam with the heads on, and the engine stays in the car too. Check out the shop manual on this procedure.

Nice format change Brent!

Seph · 08-08-2004, 01:03 AM

Hrm RGR I'm going to start modding my car by how you think it should go

I trust ya

RGR · 08-08-2004, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seph

Hrm RGR I'm going to start modding my car by how you think it should go

I trust ya

You have to list a goal, like streetable NA setup, Hot street stroker,
SC'ed street 3.8, SC'ed stroker, etc...

Then we can talk about what you need!

Dom · 08-08-2004, 06:29 PM

Okay, what about a nitrous and exhaust. Use a 2.25" or 2.50" exhaust system?

I'm thinking 2.25".

Danger Dude · 08-08-2004, 08:07 PM

I am in complete agreement with the stage 1 thru 4 of RGR (Robert) except the MAF. I only see a MAF doing anything amazing at the stage 4 level. But I dont think it will hurt anything if the MAF is changed in the Stage 2. But if you are headed to the stage 4 level buying a MAF at stage 2 or stage 4 really depends on the money available.

Danger Dude · 08-08-2004, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dom

Okay, what about a nitrous and exhaust. Use a 2.25" or 2.50" exhaust system?

I'm thinking 2.25".

2.25 is great for everthing until you go supercharger with P&P heads, intakes and cam then you will need the extra exhaust excavation of the 2.5 exhaust pipes

Seph · 08-09-2004, 12:49 AM

um where can I buy a Rear End Gears & Traction-Lok ( 3.73 for Manual & 4.10 for Automatic) for a 2002 V6 Stang automatic...?

KyleUSAF · 08-16-2004, 05:43 PM

WOW, this list is really helpful to me, thanks RGR. Is the traction lok a professional job for the installation or is it not too hard. What about the rear gears. Thanks
P.S. I got a K&N FIPK II (:

**Brent** · 08-16-2004, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyleUSAF

WOW, this list is really helpful to me, thanks RGR. Is the traction lok a professional job for the installation or is it not too hard. What about the rear gears. Thanks
P.S. I got a K&N FIPK II (:

The job needs to be done by a professional yes.

STEVE · 08-16-2004, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seph

um where can I buy a Rear End Gears & Traction-Lok ( 3.73 for Manual & 4.10 for Automatic) for a 2002 V6 Stang automatic...?

gefracing.com

RGR · 08-28-2004, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danger Dude

I am in complete agreement with the stage 1 thru 4 of RGR (Robert) except the MAF. I only see a MAF doing anything amazing at the stage 4 level. But I dont think it will hurt anything if the MAF is changed in the Stage 2. But if you are headed to the stage 4 level buying a MAF at stage 2 or stage 4 really depends on the money available.

This is true, my tuner and other tuners are getting good #'s with
a stocker MAF much longer than this list assumes. A stroker with
H/C/I swap will need a better MAF. We have proof of this

A really well tuned 4.2 I know is seeing 1.5" vacuum with the
stock MAF and is looking to upgrade. The tuner (Jerry of FORDCHIP)
said the bigger MAF should give +10 RWHP at that level. sweet!

The power level in question is ~250 RWHP range and he is now at 265 RWHP
with the stock MAF. I also edited the original post to reflect the above comments.

canman · 10-07-2004, 05:09 PM

What kind of dual exhaust do you guys recommend? I was thinking about GT Takeoff Catbacks with either Mac Flowpath or Flowmaster 2 Chamber Mufflers...also, would it be better to cut and weld the y-pipe or get an h-pipe?

I have a 99 V6 3.8l Mustang Convertible

thanks

STEVE · 10-07-2004, 05:16 PM

just get two mufflers of your choice (flowmasters

) and go to an exhaust shop to get them welded in, have the exhaust shop make you an H pipe

whipster24 · 10-07-2004, 05:35 PM

If you know somebody who has been racing mustangs for a while he might know how to swap out gears. I went over to a friend's place who had done about 30-40 gear swaps previously and really knows his stuff. Sometimes you can find some backyard mechanics to help you out. It was free for me, just had to buy him a couple new adjustable shims but the other guy I was gonna have do it was going to charge me around $100 for the install.

White6Pack · 10-07-2004, 08:20 PM

So....what should I expect tog et out of the swapping of the rear gearing and traction lok? Will I be getting more low end or high end torque from the gearing? And what does the traction-lok do?

timpryor · 10-07-2004, 08:22 PM

gears dont add H.P. they just help you get up to speed faster however it will lower your top speed and you will need a gear tooth to adjust your speed.

Kiljosh · 10-23-2004, 10:44 AM

Gears are a tough decision for me. My car is already slow in the top end (I topped it at 120) so I don't know if I want to take off that much from my cruising speed

Then again, gears are shweet if all your doing is blasting people from light to light on the main ave or sometin.

Ah, question, how would I be able to add more topend to my car? 5 speed swap? I can see and extra gear adding a bit to it.

Rick0636 · 10-23-2004, 11:15 AM

First, get Z rated tires so you dont' kill yourself, then get a chip and have your speed limiters removed, that will do it! And please be careful. I dont' have speed limiters on my GT and I haven't had it over 130 mph yet, lol.

Danger Dude · 10-24-2004, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kiljosh

Gears are a tough decision for me. My car is already slow in the top end (I topped it at 120) so I don't know if I want to take off that much from my cruising speed

Then again, gears are shweet if all your doing is blasting people from light to light on the main ave or sometin.

Ah, question, how would I be able to add more topend to my car? 5 speed swap? I can see and extra gear adding a bit to it.

You wont loose that much top end with gears. When you get a chip to raise your rev limiter and remove your speed limiter you will have more top end.

Besides when do you really need to go beyond 120. When I blast beyond 120 I do it on a closed runway I have at my disposal where I work.

People new to modding seam to worry about top speed and really that never is that important in the long run. Drag racing on the track will never have you at top speed. In street racing top speed is not a issue. The car quickest off the line usually wins. The fact is gears are the best bang-for-the-buck Mod next to nitrous or Supercharging without having to go into the engine. Gears make you qiuicker off the line and wether on the street or at the track it will improve the cars performance.

Kiljosh · 10-26-2004, 01:58 PM

It's not like I'm worried about my topend to the point where I want to be able to go like 280 or some shitte like that. I simply want to be able to say I can go a little faster than 120 mph. Yea, it's unsafe to go that fast on public roads, but I say, if noones on that turnpike or stretch of open highway, your car can handle it(I do have z rated tires), and the only person you'll ever end up killing is yourself, then have a little fun. It's an adrenaline rush and I personally love going that fast.

Btw, rev limiters on a 97 v6. It shifts at like 4700 now, what could it be raised to? And what do you think I could top at? :chin:

lowflyn · 10-26-2004, 02:46 PM

Ya I understand ya man, it's fun to cruise like that...you can get a chip to change your rev limiter also I believe and your shift points if you have an auto. If you get gears you'll need a chip also..so might as well go all out with it

Jeffsblack04 · 10-31-2004, 08:29 AM

I just recently purchased a 2004 v6 and would like to know if I decide to keep it, what would be the first thing I should modify????

Jeffsblack04 · 10-31-2004, 08:32 AM

I just recently purchased an 04 v6 and want to know where should I start to modify????

Rick0636 · 10-31-2004, 08:45 AM

True dual exhaust, NOT Y pipe back duals is probably our most popular first mod on V6 cars. Then maybe CAI. Cut the Y pipe behind the O2 sensors and attach either straight pipes leading to a GT catback or GT takeoff system, or a custom H pipe or just a custom set of dual exhausts.

Kiljosh · 10-31-2004, 04:39 PM

I boutght they ypipe back duals and now I'm having an xpipe made for it using 2 of my 4 old cats. If ya ask me, 80 bucks to bend tubing plus the 260 I paid for the catback, I'd say I'm getting a better deal than most other packages. Thats 340 for an Xpipe, All the tubing, cats, and mufflers.

If you really want to save money, buy 2 mufflers from a website, ebay, a local store(I'm talking flowmasters, flowpath, xr-1...those kidns, not stock OEM POS)and have a muffler shop make you a full exhaust from the headers back. Or just save up and get a set of Long Tubes before you even do the exhaust, then hacve them make you an exhaust and bam your done with that 1/2 of the equation, now for intake half

. And that's the fun part!

Jeffsblack04 · 11-01-2004, 03:16 PM

Thanks for the info. I'm still debating on keeping it ??? Needs more power!!!For a v6 its peppy as hell , but seems poor of the line..Well see...

Kiljosh · 11-02-2004, 08:32 PM

When I first got mine I thought, hey it's a mustang, it must be fast. Then my friend let me drive his Cobra and I realized what I was missing...

lowflyn · 11-02-2004, 08:34 PM

Headers won't give you any gain on a V6 without major mods. You'll get the same amount of power out of a GT takeoff exhaust system as anything else. Unless you go above 2.5 inch pipes..then you're losing torque.

Kiljosh · 11-02-2004, 08:43 PM

BTW, what would everyone expect to pay for a good set of 4:10's and Tlok? I'm looking at some right now and I can get both at once for a measly 150...almost brand new gears out of a Ford Ranger. 7.5", so it should fit right?

lowflyn · 11-02-2004, 09:15 PM

I believe it fits...I wouldn't pay over 150 for used gears and t-lock not knowing the condition.

Kiljosh · 11-02-2004, 09:23 PM

My friend is selling them, he lives 5 minutes from me. He cracked the block in his ranger and now hes parting it out. I asked what size rear he had, hoping maybe he had atleast t-lock, and he told me he just put a whole new pumpkin in basically. So I may end up getting that...maybe talk him doiwn to 130