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Old 07-02-2004, 12:09 PM   #1
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Question synthetic oil

going to switch to synthetic oil and would like to know every how often would i have to change the oil would i have to get a better oil filter thanks in advance
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Old 07-02-2004, 02:58 PM   #2
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Synthetic oils are more stable than convential oils. The reason you change your oil is because it loses it's characteristics and minerals that are added to help protect your engine. Over time and from usage they dissolve. Oil also gathers up dirt and un-burnt fuel. Have you ever noticed when you changed you oil how black it gets? That's from carbon deposits(dirt), and fuel. Finally, you can take convential oil up to about 250* before it loses it's viscosity, and synthetics, you can go up to about 300*. And to finally answer your questions. I would change your oil about every 5000 miles, and I would use a good filter. Try to stay away from the Fram filters, The orange one provides minimal protection, but their other products will be fine. K&N make good oil filters and Wicks? sp? make a very good filter. You can get a Wicks? from NAPA.
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Old 07-02-2004, 03:11 PM   #3
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how much are those filters fram is like 5 bucks for the filter
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Old 07-02-2004, 03:13 PM   #4
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like 10 bucks at the most. Remember oil is the blood of the engine. Would you have have a good heart or a heart that will just do.
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Old 07-02-2004, 03:19 PM   #5
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damn so its gonna be like 30 bucks every time i change the oil
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Old 07-02-2004, 03:22 PM   #6
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Ya, pretty much. You can go with a synthetic blend if that's too steep. You just need to change the oil about 1000 miles earlier. You can get 5qts for about 10 bucks.
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Old 07-02-2004, 03:26 PM   #7
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i could afford it but its just expensive i was thinking mobile 1what do u reccomend
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Old 07-02-2004, 03:47 PM   #8
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run mobile 1 and a ford oil filter and be done with it.
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Old 07-02-2004, 03:50 PM   #9
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ford oil filter would be motor craft. i am going to do it on my sisters car too but she has a nissan just run a nissan filter for her car too?
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Old 07-03-2004, 02:13 PM   #10
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i just use a ford filter works good one of the best for the money, dont spend the tons more for a mobile 1 filter when it doesnt really matter that much.
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Old 07-03-2004, 04:34 PM   #11
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there's no great oil filter out there.
They are all the same damn thing basically.
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Old 07-03-2004, 09:10 PM   #12
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ive been sticking with the Puroilator Pure 1 filters
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Old 07-03-2004, 10:21 PM   #13
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Sorry guys... I saw this thread and I just had to put in my 2 cents worth.

I work an awful lot with marine engines -- outboard in particular. Synthetic oil is worth every penny in my field. I have literally seen gearcases fill up with salt water due to a bad seal and, with synthetic, no damage was done to the gears or the shaft getting it back to dock. Remember, an outboard engine is going to run at 3,500 rpm's just cruising and it's running with resistance from the water -- lotsa heat going through a gear that is tops 4 1/2" in diameter.

Synthetic also has an innate ability to coat the parts and maintain viscosity in even the worse conditions. I would strongly suggest from my experience that, for the few dollars difference every 3,000 - 5,000 miles, synthetic is one of the very best things that you can do for the engine. I am not a chemist by any means, but many of the OEM's oils come from St. Rose Louisiana just a few miles from me. Each supplier engineers their own mixture and it is amazing what a huge difference there is between one brand an another coming from the same plant. All meet certain minimum standards, but the top brands are much more consistent with much tighter tolerances. Finally, full synthetics will not "age" as quickly as regular oils so, if your letting your car sit during the week, you will have a more consistent fluid with synthetic three months down the line than you will with standard oil.

As for the filters, there are two main suppliers that set the standard. Champion, which manufactures for some of the OEM's, and WIX. Both of them do a fantastic job. The media (the filtering stuff) that both of these companies use is really a tough standard to meet trying to source from anywhere else. By all means stay away from off-brands many of which are sourced from China. They may look the same but they have not developed a consistent method of matching Champion or Wix yet.

So, the bottom line from my experience is PLEASE use synthetic and either a Champion (OEM) or WIX filter. The few extra dollars are coating every major part in the engine.
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Old 07-03-2004, 10:34 PM   #14
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I run Moble 1, and a K&N Filter, and change my oil every 4000 miles
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Old 07-03-2004, 10:35 PM   #15
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i need to wait 10,000 miles before i convert to synthetic right?
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Old 07-03-2004, 10:48 PM   #16
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To Drummer: Excellent choices. I know Mobil holds very tight standards. As far as K&N's filter I can only speculate. I do not want to post misinformation, but I doubt they manufacture their own filters -- they most likely source from Champion or Wix. Regardless, though, they certainly put out outstanding quality. If they are making their own in house (I would be shocked), I would still feel quite comfortable with their quality. If they are out-sourcing, from their record in the industry, I would also feel very comfortable that their requirements are dependable. It is quite likely they are sourcing through Champion or Wix and have agreed with them on particular PERFORMANCE standards. Either way... good choice.

As for Tim... I've never, ever heard of that. I think you're joking but I don't know everything... LOL. I do know that once you change to synthetic is not a good idea to go back -- but I've never heard of anything regarding a mileage limit to put better fluids in your car.
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:39 PM   #17
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Stallion, after further research you are 100% correct. I learned something new. Here's what I found:

"the use of synthetic engine oils is not recommended for the "break-in" period. Its outstanding ability to reduce wear by virtually eliminating friction between moving components is not desirable for a "break-in" oil. Certain predictable amounts of friction are required for proper "break-in" of piston and piston rings. AERA does not recommend the use of synthetic engine oils for the first 5,000 miles of service."

Well done my man! I appreciate you stepping in before TimPryor received bad information.
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 232stang
damn so its gonna be like 30 bucks every time i change the oil
Ha it costs like 45 for me to do mine! And I do it every 3k miles, even though it is synthetic!
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:20 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 03redfire cobra
Ha it costs like 45 for me to do mine! And I do it every 3k miles, even though it is synthetic!
How big is your oil pan?
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent
How big is your oil pan?
6.5 quarts
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:27 PM   #21
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ouch
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:30 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digger
Stallion, after further research you are 100% correct. I learned something new. Here's what I found:

"the use of synthetic engine oils is not recommended for the "break-in" period. Its outstanding ability to reduce wear by virtually eliminating friction between moving components is not desirable for a "break-in" oil. Certain predictable amounts of friction are required for proper "break-in" of piston and piston rings. AERA does not recommend the use of synthetic engine oils for the first 5,000 miles of service."

Well done my man! I appreciate you stepping in before TimPryor received bad information.
Hey thanks for the . That's why I'm the Mod. But next time, I think some more :worship: are in order. Got it?
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:33 PM   #23
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:worship: :worship: :worship: I am not worthy...:worship: :worship: :worship: I am not worthy...:worship: :worship: :worship:


Better? LOL!
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digger
:worship: :worship: :worship: I am not worthy...:worship: :worship: :worship: I am not worthy...:worship: :worship: :worship:


Better? LOL!
You forgot "I suck" but I'll let it slide. Thanks for the laugh.
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Old 07-04-2004, 06:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03redfire cobra
6.5 quarts

damn
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Old 07-04-2004, 06:13 PM   #26
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jesus 6.5 quarts
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Old 07-04-2004, 07:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03redfire cobra
6.5 quarts
Is that with the blower too? or does it have its own oil supply?
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:53 PM   #28
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Excellent choices. I know Mobil holds very tight standards.
Over in the turbo dodge scene, Mobil 1 is all they run, even Shelby who was involved in the making of a few of the cars (GLHS, Lancer Shelby, Shelby Lancer, Shelby Z) even said that Mobil 1 is the best thing to run in turbo cars because it doesnt break down in the extreme temperatures that the turbo produces
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Old 07-08-2004, 10:43 AM   #29
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mobil 1 and other synths have been tested and mobil 1 lasted 18k miles with one filter change before finally giving up. this test was done by an independent company and tested the oil every 1k miles. i will go find the article some other time. i have mobil 1 synth and change it about every 10k miles.

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Old 07-08-2004, 11:20 AM   #30
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I do SOAP ( spectrometric oil analysis program) sampling at work and analyze the results for Aircraft and automobiles. The fact is new motor oils just are more stable and dont loose there viscosity as quick. Synthetics dont loose viscosity incredibly slow or not at all.

I dont believe in High dollar filters for several reasons. 1. you throw them away 2. all a filter does is strain the oil and collect particles, all filters do that. 3. There are no magic filters just the magic of advertisment that brainwashes people to buy the expensive filters. Every filter I have examined as collected particles just fine.

The biggest problem that requires oil to be changed is the Corrosive acids that are left after the combustion process that gets by the rings. standard Fossil Fuel oil also breaks down and looses viscosity requiring frequent changes. Synthetic does not loose viscosity or break down allowing increased time between changes. The only reason to have to change Synthetics is the corrosive acids that will etch, pit and corrode bearing surfaces causing wear and failure.
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