the Cam position sensor malfunction is usually caused by aftermarket
spark plug wires. Either the wires are too close to the cps or sometimes the low resistance wires can cause too much EMI and interfere with it. I had the same problem with msd wires, and a few others as well.
I rerouted the wires differently and the problem was fixed. didnt need to replace the cps.
the cps is a hall sensor and is easily affected by magnetic fields.
Steph, what manual do you have, my Haynes says that only if you are removing the syncronizer do you need a special tool (syncro positioning tool.) If you are just replacing the sensor no special tool is needed.
Nope, the synchronizer is part of the CPS unit located up there where the distribituh used ta was. The sensor is attached to the synchronizer by two screws, remove the screws, swap out the senors and screw the new down.
Steph, what manual do you have, my Haynes says that only if you are removing the syncronizer do you need a special tool (syncro positioning tool.) If you are just replacing the sensor no special tool is needed.
Yeah, I think that is the same manual I have also. So, does that mean that I can just unplug it, unbolt it, replace it, and put it back without having to mess with any of the electrical stuff?
Just went through this same problem with my 97. I changed plugs and wires and started getting Camshaft Position Sensor code (never had a code before). I had just put in BOSCH plugs and wires.....HUGE MISTAKE!!! BOSCH sucks! I changed sensor (just unplug and R&R) but then the engine ran like crap! Misfired and lagged and loped at idle hard enough to rock the car just sitting still in park! Then I read on here (THIS FORUM ROCKS) exactly how bad BOSCH was. Sooo, I replaced the plugs and wires (again) with Autolite and she runs like a top and NO CODES! Thanks for help! Oh....one more thing. I used a CHILTON manual (online) and the firing sequence diagram was wrong.....gotta love help like that!
You need the tool for the cam sensor if you're removing the shaft that runs to the oil pump. If you leave that shaft alone, I imagine you can get by without the tool. All the tool is is a little cap that fits over it with an arrow on the top and you have to point the arrow 54* from dead center. The tool in nearly worthless anyway, since there's no marks for straight ahead or for the 54* mark. You might as well just guess and use a protractor.
i just replace my camshaft position sensor on my 2005 mustang gt and the engine light still comes on, i reseted it with my scanner it comes back after 30 mins, any clues anyone
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