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Old 08-06-2004, 05:18 PM   #36
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get a friends car and double check all connections if you can find the same year car. I am scared of taking my stuff off... im gonna mark each line and what not so i know where they go.
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Old 08-06-2004, 05:46 PM   #37
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well i talked to a buddy and its pretty obvious is a vacuum leak somewhere so im going to get some carb cleaner and spray it around the different lines and see if i cant find where the leak is that way. this will most likely take all day tommorow but oh well.
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Old 08-06-2004, 06:08 PM   #38
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hmm, ya, that sounds like a vaccum leak, I sometimes get something caught underneth the intake when i set it down, so it could be that or maybe you do have a vaccum line not hooked up. I really wish i could be there man.
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Old 08-07-2004, 12:28 AM   #39
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i had the exact same prob when i was reinstalling my spacer a while back..turns out the gasket i used inbetween the upper and spacer was crap.
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Old 08-07-2004, 01:09 AM   #40
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Mike - when you half-shafted the TB, did you do anything to the lip inside the TB or just half shaft it? If you overbored the TB, then you will have idle problems.

Did you use any gasket sealer when putting the upper back on? you might have a leak or the gasket might have slipped a little. the single ports sucked *** at slipping.

Did you do anything to the lower? if so, there are a whole lot of other things you could have done there.

As for the EGR, there should be a red and a green plastic/nylon tubing connecting to it. Double and then triple check that there isnt a crack in there. if there is, that is your problem. They snap really easily and will cause you all sorts of problems and since they are so small, you don't catch them being broken.

As much as you prolly dont want to hear this, I would take all the sensors off again and the intake off again. Put some RTV gasket maker on and reconnect everything. Make sure the vacuum hose under the upper mani is secure as well as everything else. Sometimes just redo-ing it helps more than you can think
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Old 08-07-2004, 12:11 PM   #41
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alright well i just took it apart and put it back together again, and im still getting a loud whistling noise from the same place. Im thinking its that tube on the bottom side of the intake, should i put some sort of bracket around the rubber stuff to make sure its sealed on both ends? Thats really the only thing i can think of being that i checked any vacuum line i know of and its connected. This is gettin to be a real headache, i guess ill try putting brackets on there
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Old 08-07-2004, 12:13 PM   #42
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rob you wanna get on aim if you can?
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Old 08-07-2004, 01:30 PM   #43
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Mike, sorry I'm at work, we can play e-mail tag if you want. Robert.Doerr@shaw.af.mil
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Old 08-07-2004, 01:32 PM   #44
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well, i just put my original intake back on thinking something may have been wrong with the new one... and sure enough, i get a nice POS whistle
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Old 08-07-2004, 01:32 PM   #45
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ill tell you what.. . im now a pro at switchin these things out. It takes me about 10 minutes to get the thing off.
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Old 08-07-2004, 01:35 PM   #46
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So even with the old intake one, you still get that whistle? E-mail me, I left my address above
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Old 08-07-2004, 04:31 PM   #47
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have your replaced the gaskets at all.. could be your problem. the heat that those things go through kills them.
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Old 08-08-2004, 09:10 AM   #48
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gaskets have all been replaced
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Old 08-08-2004, 12:53 PM   #49
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after listening to those videos i really think its the tb.. my friend has a 5.0 gt and he put a bigger tb in and the whistle your getting is exactly i denticle to the whistle hes gettin .. his doesnt stall out though but i nmoticed that it only whistles when you gas it.. and that would be the tb, i know on my car there is a vaccum line that runs through it .. it might be the egr. not sure. but when you ground out your tb, you could have either messed with that or you could have widened it to much and now the tb isnt closing tight.. since you have switched between the intakes that definately not it .. try an auto parts store. find one that will sell you a new tb and if thats not it return it.
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Old 08-08-2004, 12:53 PM   #50
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hah "i denticle" nice....
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Old 08-08-2004, 01:16 PM   #51
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Quote:
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after listening to those videos i really think its the tb.. my friend has a 5.0 gt and he put a bigger tb in and the whistle your getting is exactly i denticle to the whistle hes gettin .. his doesnt stall out though but i nmoticed that it only whistles when you gas it.. and that would be the tb, i know on my car there is a vaccum line that runs through it .. it might be the egr. not sure. but when you ground out your tb, you could have either messed with that or you could have widened it to much and now the tb isnt closing tight.. since you have switched between the intakes that definately not it .. try an auto parts store. find one that will sell you a new tb and if thats not it return it.
Ya, I said this previously also and in conclusion, this has got to be the problem. I just wonder why it stalls out. I still wouldn't take it to a dealer or anything, they'll charge you for just looking at it.
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Old 08-08-2004, 01:27 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Stallion
Ya, I said this previously also and in conclusion, this has got to be the problem. I just wonder why it stalls out. I still wouldn't take it to a dealer or anything, they'll charge you for just looking at it.
i dunno if theres any by you zim but just take it to a local shop that will do a free checkup
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Old 08-10-2004, 08:11 AM   #53
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Any update here Zim? You get it fixed?
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Old 08-10-2004, 08:23 AM   #54
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Well Zim called me at my office yesterday and we discussed his problem for over an hour. This is what I came up with. His car idles ok does it shake So it is not the PVC, IAC, EGR or a vacuum leak. The main issuse is the car will loose power and shut down and after a few moments it will get going again. He could have a intermittent TPS but that is a long shot

I have concluded his Fuel pump or a clog in the tank is the problem. He was telling me the Pump hums all the time. I think the pump output is weak or there is something stopping up the fuel. The car is suffering from fuel starvation and shut off. After a few moments the pump slowly builds pressure up and the car will start again and he can drive off for a while till it happens again. At Idle the car runs fine because the car is under zero load and there is enough fuel getting thru .
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:37 AM   #55
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i took it to the stealership and they just called me telling me that they think its my chip screwing something up on my EEC. I think theyre full of **** and they want 200 dollars to take the chip off and run more tests. Corey they did mention the TB position sensor cause they said they think it may not be getting any voltage. I mentioned to him just hooking a voltometer up to the wires to check for voltage that way but he said that wouldnt work. (i think hes full of it) I dont want to pay the 200 dollars for him to remove my chip and run 20 minutes worth of tests on my computer. WTF should I do here?
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:48 AM   #56
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That is a remote possibility for the chip to be acting up. But typically chips are either good or bad and it was fine before the intake removal. I would go over there pick up the car and remove it yourself. See if that does any good and if it did not help take it back and tell him he is full of it. When I go to STEALERSHIPS I feel a sucking sound when I immediately enter the building as if a giant vaccum sucks all reason and intelligence out of your brain. I hate dealerships. I much prefer free standing FORD QUALITY CARE shops over the dealerships
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:50 AM   #57
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ok the dealers teling me that the im not getting any voltage to the TB positioning sensor and he thinks the chip is screwing up my computer. Then he said he wants to take the chip out, see if it gets voltage and if not he says it might be my EEC all together thats gone bad. I think thats a crock of **** since the chip has caused 0 problems since i started this.

Oh and the guy said he wanted an hours worth of labor to remove my chip so I said to park it outside and ill take it out of the car to save myself 60 bucks on a 5 minute job... christ.
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:55 AM   #58
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HAHHAHAHHAHA I would do it and screw paying an hour for labor.
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:04 AM   #59
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HAHHAHAHHAHA I would do it and screw paying an hour for labor.
I am, im headin down there now lol... thats just pathetic they want 60 bucks for literally 5 miutes worth of work. When i took it in i took my Strut tower brace, and all my nitrous stuff around there off to so they didnt wonder wtf it was and charge me 2-3 hours worth of labor for thinkin about it.
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:12 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZimStang
When i took it in i took my Strut tower brace, and all my nitrous stuff around there off to so they didnt wonder wtf it was and charge me 2-3 hours worth of labor for thinkin about it.
lmao
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:41 AM   #61
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my friend with the mustang had a superchip in his car and he had a simialr problem. when the engine was under load it would start gasping and stall out. he pulled the chip ahd hasnt had a problem since.. thats probably your prob. didnt even think of that
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:18 AM   #62
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well i dont want to have to have my chip pulled... i cant go over 75mph and my transmission wont shift for ****. I did start the car up after i took the chip out and i couldnt get it to die off doing the same things i did before. Think the chip could have gone bad? Shouldnt fordchip take care of this for me since i did pay 300 bucks not even a year ago for this thing?
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:23 AM   #63
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well i dont want to have to have my chip pulled... i cant go over 75mph and my transmission wont shift for ****. I did start the car up after i took the chip out and i couldnt get it to die off doing the same things i did before. Think the chip could have gone bad? Shouldnt fordchip take care of this for me since i did pay 300 bucks not even a year ago for this thing?
Was it not doing this before you installed the upper? Its weird that your chip could go bad right after you do something like that
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:35 AM   #64
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Did you try disconnecting the battery for a while and put the chip back in and see if it does it again. Maybe the chip might have partially come out and gave the problem. I dont remember hearing much about chips going Bad out of the blue a year later but you never know. I am sure Pete (Fordchip) will help you out.
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:38 AM   #65
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Was it not doing this before you installed the upper? Its weird that your chip could go bad right after you do something like that
I've chased my tail with a foul running car when something like that has happened. If you modify something and it doesn't run right, it's natural to suspect the modification. When you went back stock, and it still didn't run right...anything's a suspect. Do these cars run replaceable EPROM chips in the computer? Or is it an add-on module?
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:40 AM   #66
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wonder if the change would have altered the computers program with the diff intake ?

I know corey had some real issues at his dyno that time with the SuperChips program they tried throwing on there...
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:42 AM   #67
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Zim has a Custom burned Fordchip. Before SCT Custom tuning came into being Fordchip was the best available Chip for Mustang period. As a matter of fact the major Programmer with FordChip is with SCT now.
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:46 AM   #68
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Quote:
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wonder if the change would have altered the computers program with the diff intake ?

I know corey had some real issues at his dyno that time with the SuperChips program they tried throwing on there...
Actually the Intake would make no difference at all. My problem was related to clogged Cats. I had a Fordchip and when I went I went with you to Team Ford SCT tuning day they fixed me up without the chip and reprogrammed the computer direct.
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:48 AM   #69
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Well I didnt really have time to do a lot down at the dealer... I just went there pretty much to remove the chip for free rather than paying them 60 dollars to do it. I started the car up after I took it out though and I got better throttle response, and I couldn't get the car to die out like it was before. I didn't get a chance to drive it to see if it had the same symptoms at that point, but from what I could tell... the car seemed better without that chip in there. If that ends up being the problem, Im going to reset the computer and put the chip back in and see if Im still having issues. I really hope I can have that chip in there... going under 75mph really gets annoying along with the sloppy tranny shifts.
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Old 08-10-2004, 12:37 PM   #70
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I really thought that the whistle was the old EGR gasket not sealing. If that isn't it, I wonder if the EGR tube isn't sealing right. That could be I guess. If you've had the intake off since then, I'd have to assume that your intake is down and tight. Check the connection to the TPS (it's on the left side fo the TB) and make sure that's right. Maybe hit it with some compressed air or something to make sure that there's nothing in there making a bad connection. The odd part is that without the chip it runs fine. With a half shalfted TB and the ported upper, I wonder if it's leaning out? Someone give an opinion here, but if it was tuned right to the edge of pinging, and then you port the upper and halfshaft the TB, could that be enough difference to push it over? Is it the knock sensors that are killing his throttle response to protect the engine?

Also, could removeing the TB shaft from the TB and re-inserting it cause any problems? Maybe it was stuck because it was older and something came apart when the TB shaft was removed? Nothing happened when I did this to mine, but mine was much newer? Any ideas on that?
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