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Old 05-27-2011, 10:11 AM   #1
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engine build help?

I just got my hands on a 302 block out of a 97 explorer and I want to build it up but I don't kno what to buy because I'm new to the mustang game Im gonna twin turbo it but I don't kno what's good parts to buy I want it to b a beast but I need help.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:38 PM   #2
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If u gonna twin turbo it, then u shouldn't of bought that block. If you want a good budget friendly block, then go with boss. But if you do wanna use that block till it does break. Make sure you have a really really good cooling system in your car, atleast 60# injectors with a 255fi fuel pump. You would deff need a tune when it is all bolted in. They are lots of variables when building a twin turbo sit up, but thats just a couple of the very basics
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:45 PM   #3
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If your new to the mustang deal, I would drive the mustang awhile till it feels slow, then get a head, intake, and cam package. You would be more than happy with the results of that and also will not hurt your wallet as bad. If u are dead set in having boost, you could get a 5-6 psi non intercooled blower brand new for 2200ish and it would be easier to install and safer for your block
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stang.racr
If u gonna twin turbo it, then u shouldn't of bought that block. If you want a good budget friendly block, then go with boss. But if you do wanna use that block till it does break. Make sure you have a really really good cooling system in your car, atleast 60# injectors with a 255fi fuel pump. You would deff need a tune when it is all bolted in. They are lots of variables when building a twin turbo sit up, but thats just a couple of the very basics
Plus 1. Just do a nice H/C/I with a blower and you will still make 400 to 450 rwhp. Depends on how much PSI. But personally I wouldn't go over 450 rwhp on that block
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:10 PM   #5
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Ok cool that's y I come on here to learn stuff I've had my stang for about a year and I'm pretty sure it was beat on when I bought it but I wanna fix it up and make it a real stang again so I was looking for some help from the experts thanks guys
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Old 05-29-2011, 04:24 PM   #6
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Re: engine build help?

DSS claims up to 650 HP capability on a stock block with their main support system.
I would add that and a Valley Girdle Pro to any stock 5.0 block used with any level of boost.
Keep it well tuned and you should be ok.
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:51 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
DSS claims up to 650 HP capability on a stock block with their main support system.
I would add that and a Valley Girdle Pro to any stock 5.0 block used with any level of boost.
Keep it well tuned and you should be ok.
I looked at dss and people told me it was a stock block with a better bottem end. Iv seen shirt blocks for under 2 grand so pretty sure it's not a expensive b
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
DSS claims up to 650 HP capability on a stock block with their main support system.
I would add that and a Valley Girdle Pro to any stock 5.0 block used with any level of boost.
Keep it well tuned and you should be ok.
I looked at dss and people told me it was a stock block with a better bottem end. Iv seen shirt blocks for under 2 grand so pretty sure it's not a expensive block I know windage trays make them stronger but the manager at auto zone split a dss level 10 short block with a 250 shot in 3 passes with a windage tray. I would recommend dss , but since they are a more of a step up/mass production put together engine, I wouldnt put it over 500 to 550 at the crank with no more than a 175 shot. And even with a 175 shot I wouldn't use tb kit
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:23 AM   #9
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Re: engine build help?

It is not the windage tray that strengthens the block. It helps a bit on the DSS package, but the bulk of the strengthening comes from the main girdle. That takes care of the bottom end, adding the Valley Girdle helps strengthen and stabilize the top of the block. The "better" bottom end usually means that they have installed forged pistons, rods and crankshaft which is always a good idea with large increases in horsepower.

Correct tuning is the main ingredient that keeps the block together. I'd bet the Auto Zone manager's car wasn't tuned properly for that much nitrous. Even the slightest bit of detonation can kill a 5.0 stock block engine. That's why I'll be tuning mine with the PMS, using 60 lb. injectors and the Mr Freeze methanol injection. I plan to test the limits of DSS's claims and if the engine fails at the 650 hp level I will go to a Boss or Dart block, more cubes and be looking for 800-1000+ horsepower. That's my ultimate goal for a street driven Mustang.
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:47 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
It is not the windage tray that strengthens the block. It helps a bit on the DSS package, but the bulk of the strengthening comes from the main girdle. That takes care of the bottom end, adding the Valley Girdle helps strengthen and stabilize the top of the block. The "better" bottom end usually means that they have installed forged pistons, rods and crankshaft which is always a good idea with large increases in horsepower.

Correct tuning is the main ingredient that keeps the block together. I'd bet the Auto Zone manager's car wasn't tuned properly for that much nitrous. Even the slightest bit of detonation can kill a 5.0 stock block engine. That's why I'll be tuning mine with the PMS, using 60 lb. injectors and the Mr Freeze methanol injection. I plan to test the limits of DSS's claims and if the engine fails at the 650 hp level I will go to a Boss or Dart block, more cubes and be looking for 800-1000+ horsepower. That's my ultimate goal for a street driven Mustang.
No he is the mustang god and runs carb through a full out drag car, tuning was not a problem. I'm only stating the fact even with the best bottem end that money could buy with a rotating system, I still wouldn't put 600 hp to a 900 dollar block just cause they wrote dss level 10 or 20 on it. I'd love to have the money to put down on a dart 363 or so, but for 5k or what that block cost, I'd go with a cobra or coyote 4 valve and be out the door for the same price as just that dart block would have ran, I don't their is nothing wrong with dss or chp, matter of fact that's probably what I'll go with
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:28 PM   #11
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Re: engine build help?

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Originally Posted by Stang.racr View Post
No he is the mustang god and runs carb through a full out drag car, tuning was not a problem. I'm only stating the fact even with the best bottem end that money could buy with a rotating system, I still wouldn't put 600 hp to a 900 dollar block just cause they wrote dss level 10 or 20 on it. I'd love to have the money to put down on a dart 363 or so, but for 5k or what that block cost, I'd go with a cobra or coyote 4 valve and be out the door for the same price as just that dart block would have ran, I don't their is nothing wrong with dss or chp, matter of fact that's probably what I'll go with
Tuning a carbureted engine is always a problem. If he runs a carb, then tuning is even more difficult to do. A change in altitude, temperature or humidity will throw it way off. His tune was likely off a bit on that day.
I have a cousin who is a hard core drag racer, engine and machine man. Hanging out with him at the strip and at his machine shop I have learned a lot about high horsepower engines and how hard it is to get the proper tune on a carbureted engine.
If you can afford the thousands of dollars worth of tuning and logging electronics then you are able to properly tune your engine for the conditions at the time. If not then you are playing Russian Roulette with your engine each time you go to the track. That's just the way it is.

I don't really doubt the DSS claims, as I have read too many articles over the years on stock 5.0 engine blocks that have withstood those and occasionally higher (one article stated 750 hp) horsepower levels.
Now, can just anyone attain and maintain those levels and keep their stock block intact? That's very doubtful, but it is the kind of challenge that I enjoy, so I intend to give it a shot.

P.S. The Dart blocks are not that expensive at $1964 to $2902. Or you could go a bit cheaper with the Boss block at $1660.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:00 PM   #12
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I see one in mm&ff for like 5 but I just noticed it was aluminum so that's why.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:47 PM   #13
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Re: engine build help?

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Originally Posted by Stang.racr View Post
I see one in mm&ff for like 5 but I just noticed it was aluminum so that's why.
Yeah, it is listed at the bottom of the page in the link on my previous post.

I figured that was what you might have seen and I wanted to make sure you had the correct information if you were thinking about buying a block.
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