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Old 06-17-2011, 04:40 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponyexpress
Its not the screw.. I am a she and thanks. Still not idling. I put it on scanner no codes show. It has to do with that tps I put it on nothing take screws out of the tps and turn tps to open throttle by hand and it will run of course at high rpms. Out of options....
My bad mam. Not a lot of girls into cars around my parts. I'm confused as well
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Old 06-17-2011, 04:43 PM   #37
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Re: need help

I don't have a manual for this car.
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:25 PM   #38
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Re: need help

Well got tps set correctly. i just had a neighbor tell me that it maybe O2 sensors. I have not replace them yet. So I am asking before i do replace them could this be my problem.
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:43 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponyexpress
Well got tps set correctly. i just had a neighbor tell me that it maybe O2 sensors. I have not replace them yet. So I am asking before i do replace them could this be my problem.
It shouldn't be, your car should start and run even with them disconnected.
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:28 PM   #40
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Re: need help

I've got the car running I just have to hold throttle to keep it running now. It hesitates as you take foot off throttle and then dies.
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:47 PM   #41
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How about the idle air control valve or possibly a large vacuum leak .... If u did the maf already that would be the biggest idle issue usually..... Have you recently removed the intake or throttle body???
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:10 PM   #42
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If you still have the egr valve attached pull the vacuum line off and see if that helps. Mine had a similar problem and that was one of the many problems I had causing it. Now it's just there for looks
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:10 PM   #43
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Re: need help

Quote:
Originally Posted by ponyexpress View Post
I've got the car running I just have to hold throttle to keep it running now. It hesitates as you take foot off throttle and then dies.
Are you positive you have the TPS set correctly?
That sounds like it is out of range.

Here is an old tech article I had saved:

Problem: IDLE SPEED Instability and/or computer code (66)

Idle Speed Instability is generally caused by one of the following problems:
1. Idle speed set on the throttle plate is too high— Generally this error is characterized by a very erratic idle and stalling when coming to a stop.
a. Set the throttle by removing the connector from the Idle Speed Control motor.
b. With engine warm and air conditioner turned off, set Idle Speed at 700 RPM (or desired RPM) using the throttle screw. (ON 1994 AND LATER, use the idle bypass screw at the right side of the Throttle body covered with a plastic cap).
c. Reset the throttle position sensor (Black unit on the top of the Throttle body) to obtain 0.995 to 0.999 volts between the black and green wires on the throttle pot.
· If the unit has no voltage check the voltage between the black and orange wire. This should be 4.9 to 5.1 volts with ignition on.
· If the voltage is (4.9 to 5.1) and there is no voltage on the green wire. The Throttle Position sensor in no good
· If there is no voltage on the orange wire you must find the break in the wire.
d. Reconnect Idle-speed motor and check for engine stability.
e. CHECK SYSTEM FOR VACUUM LEAKS and FIX THEM.
2. Crankcase ventilation not properly installed: This problem causes leans idles and lean pops at light loads, medium speed (1700 to 2500 R.P.M.).
a. If you have a turbo or a super-charged system the crankcase vent tube must be enlarged (5/8 " to ¾ ") and plumbed between the mass air flow sensor and the inlet of the super charger/turbo.
b. Throw away any crankcase breather that does not connect to the downstream side of the Mass airflow sensor.
c. Check PCV valve for correct installation, on GT-40 manifold, the PCV valve is located so that the hose is short and it some times pulls the valve out. This will cause idle problems and lean running at part throttle loads.
d. CHECK SYSTEM FOR VACUUM LEAKS and FIX THEM
3. Fan wash causes engine to hunt for idle. On some vehicle setups, the fan will cause a pulsating air current that causes poor idle. If you put your hand underneath the air filter with the engine running, you can feel a strong pulsation. This is further characterized by electrical noise in the meter, which can be read by a digital voltmeter across pins C and D of the meter.
a. The voltmeter should read between .600 and .900 volts on the D.C. scale at idle.
b. On the AC scale the voltmeter should read less than .010 volts.
With no shield between the air filter and the engine, the voltmeter will read above .010 volts and go to as high as .050 volts. This is known as the signal-to-noise ratio and is similar to trying to listen to someone whisper next to a jet plane.
A simple fan shield should be fabricated from sheet metal or can be purchased that locates between the air meter filter, and the major rotating components.
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:18 PM   #44
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Re: need help

Did you clean out the IAC (idle air control)? It probably needs to be cleaned or replaced.

Thanks,

-Will
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:58 PM   #45
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Re: need help

Just wanted to say thanks for everyones suggestions. I have my car running now the TFI was not getting a good connection one of the screws was broke off into distrubtor. I changed distrubtor and replace TFI and she is running like a dream. Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:25 PM   #46
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Re: need help

Back again. If I do not have water coming into upper intake does that mean water pump has went out?
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:47 AM   #47
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Re: need help

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Back again. If I do not have water coming into upper intake does that mean water pump has went out?
Either that, the coolant level is low, or you have an air lock, which is usually not a problem on these cars.

Carefully remove the radiator cap, start the car and let it warm up to operating temperature. Once the thermostat opens, you should be able to see the coolant flowing (moving) through the radiator.
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