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Old 09-02-2011, 08:51 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
Anytime you crack the cap the water will boil...thats why the coolant system is under pressure it actually lowers the boiling point,but for sure check the thermostat!...good luck keep us posted!!..
im busy tommorow so its probably a sunday job.thanx for the advice.
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:40 PM   #37
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Hey I have 2?'s is that upper radiator hose kinked or bent to far making it unable to flow right? And what is the temp rating on your thermostat? Also u never wana open the radiator cap when it is hot cause if u get hit with that coolant it will burn the he'll out of u. Also did u bleed your coolant system and get all the air out of the system. If u have any air in their, the place ware the air is gets extreamely hot and could even burn up your heads.
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:36 PM   #38
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Hey I have 2?'s is that upper radiator hose kinked or bent to far making it unable to flow right? And what is the temp rating on your thermostat? Also u never wana open the radiator cap when it is hot cause if u get hit with that coolant it will burn the he'll out of u. Also did u bleed your coolant system and get all the air out of the system. If u have any air in their, the place ware the air is gets extreamely hot and could even burn up your heads.
I think my thermostat housing is a 45 and I think it should be a 90, but it doesn't really seem kinked.I barely cracked the cap to see if it was boiling.I know it is unsafe but it was a brand new temp gauge and wasn't sure of its accuracy.how do you bleed the air out of the system?thanx for the input.
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:12 PM   #39
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To bleed the system u have to fill the system then start the car and turn on the heat full blast then let it run till it gets to operating temp. Keep the radiator cap off and put a pan under it so the coolant dose not overflow on the ground. It will seem like it's just keep bubbling out but all u have to do is when it overflows out put more in. Or u can go out and buy a spillfree funnel from autozone or Pepboys (pic) this makes it so much easer to do. All u do is just wait for the bubbles stop and your done. Should take like 15 mins-20 mins. When it stops bubbling just rev it a little to make sure all the air is out and your heat should be realy hot. My housing on my 88 GT is a 90 deg bend I don't know what yours should be.
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:03 PM   #40
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That process works after I bypassed the heater core?
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:37 PM   #41
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U just luped them together right. If so then yes but u don't have to have the heat on in the car
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:15 AM   #42
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i also forgot to say 160* mr gasket thermostat.
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:37 AM   #43
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Is that what is recommended for your stang?
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Old 09-04-2011, 02:15 PM   #44
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Is that what is recommended for your stang?
180*.I was trying to bring the temp down
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:55 PM   #45
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Ok well that's a little low but ok. Did u try to bleed the system yet?
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:59 PM   #46
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Ok well that's a little low but ok. Did u try to bleed the system yet?
Not yet ,I will later.I am in the middle of strut and shock install.I will let you know later
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:35 PM   #47
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Cool man, upgraded stuff or a refresh on the stock
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Old 09-04-2011, 07:26 PM   #48
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Re: cooling problems

Reading through all of this, I am trying to come to a conclusion about what I've read, so be patient if I get something wrong.

1. If you need to repalace the heater core it is relatively simple on a car that came without the A/C and you only have to remove half of the dash.
If the car came with A/C, the only way to do it right is to remove the entire dash top and the portion of the ductwork that contains the core.

2. Once your cooling systm is working right, you will want to remove the 160 degree thermostat and replace it with a 180 degree. The 160 gegree thermostat will keep your car's tuning in the "cold loop" mode and it will not run correctly. It will also run "rich" and burn more fuel than is normal.

3. Have you tested for a blown head gasket?
They make a test kit you can get at auto parts stores or you can just remove the radiator cap and watch for bubbles. If the bubbles keep coming and get more numerous as the car warms up, this is usually an indication of a blown head gasket, cracked block or head.

4. Are you sure the idle speed and timing are set correctly?
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Old 09-04-2011, 07:44 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
Reading through all of this, I am trying to come to a conclusion about what I've read, so be patient if I get something wrong.

1. If you need to repalace the heater core it is relatively simple on a car that came without the A/C and you only have to remove half of the dash.
If the car came with A/C, the only way to do it right is to remove the entire dash top and the portion of the ductwork that contains the core.

2. Once your cooling systm is working right, you will want to remove the 160 degree thermostat and replace it with a 180 degree. The 160 gegree thermostat will keep your car's tuning in the "cold loop" mode and it will not run correctly. It will also run "rich" and burn more fuel than is normal.

3. Have you tested for a blown head gasket?
They make a test kit you can get at auto parts stores or you can just remove the radiator cap and watch for bubbles. If the bubbles keep coming and get more numerous as the car warms up, this is usually an indication of a blown head gasket, cracked block or head.

4. Are you sure the idle speed and timing are set correctly?
Awesome info as usual Trojan.

Listen to this guy. I have yet to see him post wrong information.
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:03 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
Reading through all of this, I am trying to come to a conclusion about what I've read, so be patient if I get something wrong.

1. If you need to repalace the heater core it is relatively simple on a car that came without the A/C and you only have to remove half of the dash.
If the car came with A/C, the only way to do it right is to remove the entire dash top and the portion of the ductwork that contains the core.

2. Once your cooling systm is working right, you will want to remove the 160 degree thermostat and replace it with a 180 degree. The 160 gegree thermostat will keep your car's tuning in the "cold loop" mode and it will not run correctly. It will also run "rich" and burn more fuel than is normal.

3. Have you tested for a blown head gasket?
They make a test kit you can get at auto parts stores or you can just remove the radiator cap and watch for bubbles. If the bubbles keep coming and get more numerous as the car warms up, this is usually an indication of a blown head gasket, cracked block or head

4. Are you sure the idle speed and timing are set correctly?
Yes the thermostat is gonna be temporary.haven't double check if I put it in backwards yet.still need to make sure I got the air out.if those don't work my next step will be to check the head gasket.my timing is set at 11 and my idle is set at 900. Thanx for response!
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:05 PM   #51
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Re: cooling problems

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Awesome info as usual Trojan.

Listen to this guy. I have yet to see him post wrong information.
Thanks KnowItAll!

I'm not perfect, but I try to provide the best information that I can.
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:07 PM   #52
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Re: cooling problems

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Yes the thermostat is gonna be temporary.haven't double check if I put it in backwards yet.still need to make sure I got the air out.if those don't work my next step will be to check the head gasket.my timing is set at 11 and my idle is set at 900. Thanx for response!
Yes, if the thermostat is reversed the heat sensor that activates it will not work properly and that could lead to overheating very easily.
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:25 PM   #53
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So I checked the thermostat and it doesn't even fit backwards.I just took it out and it ran at a steady 190 195.I ran and drove it for about an hour.I also bled the air out.I know I probably shouldn't leave the thermostat out.maybe I should switch back to a engine drivin fan?
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:48 PM   #54
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Re: cooling problems

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So I checked the thermostat and it doesn't even fit backwards.I just took it out and it ran at a steady 190 195.I ran and drove it for about an hour.I also bled the air out.I know I probably shouldn't leave the thermostat out.maybe I should switch back to a engine drivin fan?
Maybe the thermostat was sticking?
No, you should not leave it out.
Switching back to an engine driven fan is your choice, but I wouldn't.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:51 AM   #55
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What's my options?try a different thermostat? Duel fans?any other ideas?

---------- Post added at 09:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 AM ----------

My fan is mounted directly on the radiator.maybe I need a shroud.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:54 AM   #56
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Re: cooling problems

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What's my options?try a different thermostat? Duel fans?any other ideas?
Yes, try a different thermostat.
I would use a 180 degree in your case and make sure it is installed properly.
Either use dual fans or a single big enough to move 2000 CFM or more.
Make sure the coolant mixture is correct (50/50 or 60/40) depending upon the level of winter protection required.
Make sure the cooling system is full and all of the air has been "burped" out.
Make sure the cooling system is clean, flush if necessary.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:57 AM   #57
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Re: cooling problems

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What's my options?try a different thermostat? Duel fans?any other ideas?

---------- Post added at 09:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 AM ----------

My fan is mounted directly on the radiator.maybe I need a shroud.
A shroud to direct the air flow is always a good idea.
Also make sure any other coolers or condensors mounted in front of the radiator are clean and free of any debris that would restrict the air flow.
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:06 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

A shroud to direct the air flow is always a good idea.
Also make sure any other coolers or condensors mounted in front of the radiator are clean and free of any debris that would restrict the air flow.
I removed everything in front of the radiator.ill try a shroud and see what happens.thanx again trojan!
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Old 09-06-2011, 01:02 PM   #59
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Re: cooling problems

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I removed everything in front of the radiator.ill try a shroud and see what happens.thanx again trojan!
Good luck!
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Old 09-09-2011, 04:57 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
Anytime you crack the cap the water will boil...thats why the coolant system is under pressure it actually lowers the boiling point,but for sure check the thermostat!...good luck keep us posted!!..
Lol. Sorry had to throw this is, but it raises the boiling point! If it lowered it it would boil every time you get it to operating temp and it would cause air bubbles in the system.

---------- Post added at 04:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:53 PM ----------

And it's closed loop.
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:34 PM   #61
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Lol. Sorry had to throw this is, but it raises the boiling point! If it lowered it it would boil every time you get it to operating temp and it would cause air bubbles in the system.

---------- Post added at 04:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:53 PM ----------

And it's closed loop.
Correct I apologize for my 3rd grade grammar skilz!...
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:53 PM   #62
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Re: cooling problems

drain your radiator a lil and check to see if you got bubbles coming up in the coolant
or go to autozone and get like a 18 doller gas test to see if you got exhaust fumes coming in the radiator from the combustion chamber

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:51 PM ----------

and check all your hoses make sure they aint clapsed, and if you think you put your thermostat in backwards, it will make it so the coolant cant escape to the radiator to get cooled so you just have coolant circulating throughout the block and the heat has no were to go.
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:19 AM   #63
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A lot of times if it starts hard when up to temp its because of timing. Especially with high compression, big cam, ect. Look for a thing called a bump starter. MSD makes one, it adjusts the timing just enough to get it started. Everything goes back to normal once it starts up.
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