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Old 08-24-2011, 09:46 PM   #1
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cooling problems

New : aluminum 2" radiator,Mr gasket 160 thermostat,OEM water pump, 12" electric fan , summit adjustable fan controller/relay. I put in a new overflow on the passenger side.after all that it still runs hot.is my fan to small? Is my timing the cause?i am running a Holley 650 cfm carb,offenhauser intake,possibly b cam(usure).no pollution pump or egr.if the timing is the problem what should my setup be set at?any other suggestions I may have missed?
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Old 08-24-2011, 10:56 PM   #2
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Re: cooling problems

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
New : aluminum 2" radiator,Mr gasket 160 thermostat,OEM water pump, 12" electric fan , summit adjustable fan controller/relay. I put in a new overflow on the passenger side.after all that it still runs hot.is my fan to small? Is my timing the cause?i am running a Holley 650 cfm carb,offenhauser intake,possibly b cam(usure).no pollution pump or egr.if the timing is the problem what should my setup be set at?any other suggestions I may have missed?
Your timing could be to slow.
You could have a head gasket leak.
Timing is 10 degrees BTDC stock.
A 12" fan is kind of small unless you are using 2 of them.
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Old 08-24-2011, 11:43 PM   #3
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Yes that fan is TINY!!!!! Either run a bigger one or run 2 like Trojan suggested.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:26 AM   #4
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Also I just noticed that my radiator cap seems loose.it is brand new oem also,but it doesn't seem to fit very tight on the new radiator.ill try to get a better one.
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
Also I just noticed that my radiator cap seems loose.it is brand new oem also,but it doesn't seem to fit very tight on the new radiator.ill try to get a better one.
Now I figured out that my fan is a push fan instead of a pull fan.I hope I'm on the right path cause this is really annoying.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:20 PM   #6
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Re: cooling problems

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Now I figured out that my fan is a push fan instead of a pull fan.I hope I'm on the right path cause this is really annoying.
Reverse the wires and it will run the other direction making it a pull fan.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:02 PM   #7
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That cap is a big thing to the coolant system u need to get the right pressure and the right size to make sure that it seals the right way.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:05 PM   #8
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Re: cooling problems

and if it still runs hot... u need an additional fan or a larger one (as stated above). i believe your problem is in total area of cooling. your current fan "would" work if you had a shroud that covered the entire radiator or at least more area of the radiator. i went through the same thing a while back. like u i thought it was timing, and then i thought maybe i was running too much boost. nope.... just needed a freak'n shroud
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Reverse the wires and it will run the other direction making it a pull fan.
So I reversed the wires and it still pushes.I would also need to reverse the blades to right? I just ordered a 2300 cfm 16".I also found a better cap.well see what happens after I get my fan.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:27 PM   #10
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Re: cooling problems

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So I reversed the wires and it still pushes.I would also need to reverse the blades to right? I just ordered a 2300 cfm 16".I also found a better cap.well see what happens after I get my fan.
Yes, I forgot that.
Or you could mount it on the other side of the radiator.
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Old 08-26-2011, 07:41 PM   #11
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I got my set up from late model restoration. It works great.
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon517
I got my set up from late model restoration. It works great.
sweet.looks great to!

---------- Post added at 08:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Yes, I forgot that.
Or you could mount it on the other side of the radiator.
yeah. i thought about it but, since there is a chance it might be to small ill just go ahead and get the big one.

---------- Post added at 08:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:07 PM ----------

thanx for the input guys.ill keep updated after the new fan gets installed.
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:53 AM   #13
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Why are most electric fans only for manual transmissions? Are there ant available for aod's ?
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:01 AM   #14
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Re: cooling problems

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Why are most electric fans only for manual transmissions? Are there ant available for aod's ?
i never heard of that... i even run 5spd pcm eith my aod. a fan is a fan. are you sure you arent refering to the radiator itself? there is a differnce between auto and manual radiators. auto radiators come with tranny coolers, manual tranny radiators dont.
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Old 08-27-2011, 11:17 AM   #15
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Yep you are right, I was thinking about radiators.
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:30 PM   #16
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So I put in a good fan and changed the cap.after I ran her I found coolant dripping out of a hole in the fire wall.anyone know what goes here?I stuck a bolt in the hole.it is right by the collector.
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:45 PM   #17
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It's coming from the heater core in the dash. It's like a mini radiator.
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:57 PM   #18
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It's coming from the heater core in the dash. It's like a mini radiator.
I know what the heat core is,I didn't remember that it should have 3 hoses.where should that 3rd hose hook up ,it was just hacked off?
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:17 PM   #19
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Someone correct me if im wrong but I belive that is the drain for the a/c...
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:24 PM   #20
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Here's mine looks the same (minus the bolt) but I have no a/c and no coolant leaks...
And there are only two heater core hoses...and if you have a/c two a/c hoses as well...if your heater core is leaking it could leak from that drain I suppose...
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:40 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
Here's mine looks the same (minus the bolt) but I have no a/c and no coolant leaks...
And there are only two heater core hoses...and if you have a/c two a/c hoses as well...if your heater core is leaking it could leak from that drain I suppose...
I have no ac also.that makes sense.that is probably my cooling issue.ill try bypassing it for now.
Thanx for the pic

---------- Post added at 07:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:37 PM ----------

I opened the hood after I drove it and heard a sizzle.it was dripping out of that hole.but hey I guess better there than my brand new carpet.
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:46 PM   #22
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I had the same issue with coolant dripping out the weep hole and instead of ripping the dash apart I did the unthinkable for now and put stop leak in it. It has lasted a year now so I guess I didn't screw it up too bad.
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:55 PM   #23
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I had the same issue with coolant dripping out the weep hole and instead of ripping the dash apart I did the unthinkable for now and put stop leak in it. It has lasted a year now so I guess I didn't screw it up too bad.
I would probably do that if I didn't have a brand new radiator.
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:56 PM   #24
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Yeah I wouldn't do it with a brand new radiator but I still have the old one so I said what the heck. So far though ac and everything working fine so far.
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:02 PM   #25
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I just don't know why I didn't notice this earlier.I have basically changed and upgraded the whole cooling system.this is the last thing keeping my nearly 3year rebuild on the road(not complete but drivable).
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:14 PM   #26
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According to my chilton manual there is a way to get to it from inside the engine bay by removing part of the ac system but I've never heard of anyone doing it. I know there are like a hundred screws and clips to worry about when removing the dash though.
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:23 PM   #27
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Heater cores suck! What really sux is about a month ago I had most of the dash out.wish I found the problem earlier.I'm gonna bypass tomorrow to get me on the road.that might be a winter project.

---------- Post added at 08:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:23 PM ----------

My Haynes says to remove dash
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Heater cores suck! What really sux is about a month ago I had most of the dash out.wish I found the problem earlier.I'm gonna bypass tomorrow to get me on the road.that might be a winter project.

---------- Post added at 08:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:23 PM ----------

My Haynes says to remove dash
I need to do mine and taking the dash out is pretty much keeping me from doing it.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:18 PM   #29
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I had to do it in my old '90 mustang and it's a complete b***h...it took me a whole weekend and I had a few screws left over after the job, whoops!
The dash raddled ever since, especially when I would hit pot holes! If I were you, I'd take it somewhere and let them do it. I know I'll never change another heater core again...
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:46 PM   #30
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So I bypassed the heater core .hooked up a real temp gauge.drove it a little bit.the temp gauge said 220.right now I got the fan wired on all the time.it should still run cooler.the timing was a little off.I got that set right.I cracked the radiator cap a little bit and it started to boil.maybe I put the thermostat in backwards.is that even possible? I am STUMPED!
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:47 PM   #31
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The bypass job.
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:57 PM   #32
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One other thing probably not related,when ever I drive it and shut it off it doesn't want to restart.it cranks slow and I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor for like 5 seconds.my only guess on that is the electric choke on my Holley.the slow cranking may because all the header heat on the starter.any other ideas?
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:11 PM   #33
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It is possible to put the thermostat in upside down..if you did so the "spring" would've been facing upwards...and would deffinatly cause you to run hot and eventually overheat!..
220° isn't overheating but depending on how well your fan setup is working it is a little warm for a short cruz..

---------- Post added at 08:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:03 PM ----------

Slow starting could be heat transfer to the starter...
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:28 PM   #34
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It's the coolest I've had it running,but the water still boiled.thanx for the response.

---------- Post added at 08:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 PM ----------

It only boiled when I cracked the cap.that actually might make sense that the thermostat isnt opening to let pressure through good enough.ill check it out this weekend.
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Old 09-02-2011, 08:47 PM   #35
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Anytime you crack the cap the water will boil...thats why the coolant system is under pressure it actually lowers the boiling point,but for sure check the thermostat!...good luck keep us posted!!..
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